RIDOX Replica Garage Fan Club - Suspended

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Last gen of plasma do have good response time, at least that's what I read :) Anyway, I did couple of laps at Midfield with the Huayra, and it reminds me of Sega F355 Challenge that I often played long time ago. Going to test Max Payne 3 :P

Saw this :

A Plasma panel display has near instantaneous response times on the order of 2 milliseconds. What this implies is that a plasma TV subpixel is only alight for a fraction of a second. Typically, most conventional Plasma TVs display video at 60fps (research has shown that the human eye cannot tell any significant difference in motion and smoothness of videos at higher frame rates). This implies that each frame has to be displayed for 1/60 or 17ms. However, the sub pixels of a plasma TV stay alight only for around 2ms when excited. Thus, to display a single frame for 1/60 seconds, the plasma panel excites the sub-pixels in pulses so as to keep all the pixels “bright” so that they can continuously display the desired frame.

Thus, for example, a 60Hz plasma panel can have 10 pulses per frame, to display the image. Effectively, the screen is being refreshed 60Hz times 10 pulses/frame which gives us a value of 600Hz. This is what Plasma manufacturers refer to as the Sub field drive refresh rate. If the Plasma panel performs 8 pulses per frame, it gives a sub field drive refresh rate of 480Hz. Now when the displayed frame has to be changed to the next frame, the ultra-fast response times of the Plasma TV sub pixels enables an almost instantaneous transition to the next frame.

As a result, even though only 60 frames are displayed per second by the Plasma TV, the near instantaneous transition between frames drastically minimizes motion blur and image ghosting. While the subfield drive terminology is a bit misleading as each frame is not being updated 600 times a second, it still portrays the inherent advantage of Plasma TVs when it comes to fast moving content due to its near instantaneous pixel response times. 240Hz and 480Hz LCD 3D TVs – The truth behind the numbers

In the case of LCD panels, things change drastically. One of the fundamental limitations of LCD technology is that the switching speed, or the time it takes to change the pixel color is quite slow – on the order of around 4ms. In addition, this refresh rate is dependent on what color the pixel was showing, and what color it has to update to. The 4ms is only a best case estimate and even on some of the commercial 480Hz panels, many pixels can take much longer to update certain pixels.

As a result, when you are trying to view 60Hz content on an LCD TV, in the case of fast moving scenes where there is a large difference between successive frames. If the LCD panel can’t keep up with this (which is usually the case) it gives rise to motion blurring and image ghosting artifacts. While LCD manufacturers have been trying to push the response times of these displays, they are still nowhere close to producing a true 240Hz or 480Hz display that can display all video content accurately and free of artifacts at these high refresh rates.

Instead, what they have chosen to do is use advanced mathematical techniques to interpolate between the frames of a 60Hz video signal to give rise to a 240Hz signal. Keep in mind that a large number of the 240 frames being displayed every second are ‘fake’ interpolated frames. The idea behind this is that the 240Hz source keeps ‘driving’ the LCD pixels at a much faster rate, thus allowing for a better transition from one frame to the next. While this is certainly an interesting way to improve LCD displays, the 240Hz or 480Hz terms are somewhat misleading since the screen itself is still not capable of true 240Hz/480hz response times.


From here :

https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/2ao1uy/since_all_plasma_tvs_have_400600hz_refresh_rates/

Maybe my tv 6.5ms is the input lag ? :confused:
 
@Ridox2JZGTE that Reddit article is bit biased, but informative on plasma side.
Pixel active response times are today's LCD tv's around 4 to 8ms. That 10x drawing sub area is truly helping on quick moving images, it doesn't rise actual refresh rate, plasma just needs more cycles to keep "lights up". As I have understand on some plasma screens you can get actual frame rate higher than 60 fps, but it costs brightness of picture, not sure where read this but makes sense.
120 hz LCD is "true" hertz, 240 and 480 are more like just fake, backlight manipulation making them more like 180hz and 210hz real, or not real but numbers what are more corresponding true refresh speed.

I'm starting to get interested more plasmas, what brand/model your is?

Response time is not input lag time. There is few easy ways to test real input time of screen, you need just one CRT screen and dual exit screen controller on pc, software what just scrolls numbers on screen and you take picture where both screens are visible at same time. Leo Bodnar has also made equipment for measuring actual input lag.

Summa summarum, plasma beats up on motion blur side when quickly moving objects on screen, actual input delay can go either side, depends LCD and plasma other specs.
 
@Ridox2JZGTE that Reddit article is bit biased, but informative on plasma side.
Pixel active response times are today's LCD tv's around 4 to 8ms. That 10x drawing sub area is truly helping on quick moving images, it doesn't rise actual refresh rate, plasma just needs more cycles to keep "lights up". As I have understand on some plasma screens you can get actual frame rate higher than 60 fps, but it costs brightness of picture, not sure where read this but makes sense.
120 hz LCD is "true" hertz, 240 and 480 are more like just fake, backlight manipulation making them more like 180hz and 210hz real, or not real but numbers what are more corresponding true refresh speed.

I'm starting to get interested more plasmas, what brand/model your is?

Response time is not input lag time. There is few easy ways to test real input time of screen, you need just one CRT screen and dual exit screen controller on pc, software what just scrolls numbers on screen and you take picture where both screens are visible at same time. Leo Bodnar has also made equipment for measuring actual input lag.

Summa summarum, plasma beats up on motion blur side when quickly moving objects on screen, actual input delay can go either side, depends LCD and plasma other specs.

My plasma is a cheap Chinese brand Changhong, I've read the panel is still in production, and a smart TV plasma line recently released too :) It's the only manufacturer that still produce and develop PDP in the world, and the quality is getting better every year.

Mine is basic model with no smart tv function ( don't need it anyway ) The quality is surprisingly very good for a Chinese brand :) the back cover is all metal, as well as the bezel ( thin form factor ) It weighs a tonne though, at close to 30kg for 51 inch. Power consumption can be shown on OSD, about half usage on movie viewing on average from total power use of 230W ( on max ). The plasma has full 3 years warranty for the panel.

I have seen Pioneer Kuro and Panasonic as well Sharp top of the line plasmas, and mine can hold up against them in terms of picture quality ( Pacific Rim, Furious 7 looks great ) The only downside is the tv has only basic video processing software unlike the Kuro, it's more like a barebone tv in which advanced settings has to be accessed from service menu :) I'm fine tuning the IBC now ( Intelligent Brightness Control ), it has some other features like ICC and IHC ( intelligent color and hue control )

The black level is great, used some reference movie material that I have watched on high end plasmas ( Kuro ) and this one looks very close :P

BTW, still can't believe how good GT6 looks now :D
 
@Ridox2JZGTE so good to have you back, even better coz you have new better tv than earlier, but now back to business, I'd like to hear what your opinion is about that snowplow tune alternation what I did? Does it keep original tune well or was it too much altered?
 
@Ridox2JZGTE so good to have you back, even better coz you have new better tv than earlier, but now back to business, I'd like to hear what your opinion is about that snowplow tune alternation what I did? Does it keep original tune well or was it too much altered?

I haven't driven the Swift tune yet :( I don't mind at all with the alteration :P I only drove the Huayra, Z8 and Firebird on my last short play time. The Firebird is an online race tune which drives like a proper rally car at Chamonix. Will post the Huayra, Firebird and Z8 on my next play.
 
EVENT: Gallardo GT3 at Fuji

2014_lamborghini_gallardo_car_picture.jpg

Reiter Engineering Lamborghini Gallardo LP600 GT3 (to Original)
LAMBORGHINI GALLARDO LP600+ GT3
New development steps for the successful GT3 model in 2012


Focus on endurance reliability

The Reiter Engineering developed Lamborghini Gallardo LP600+ GT3 had a successful season 2011 with four vice titles in ADAC GT Masters, Brazil GT3, ASIA GT3 and Spanish GT Championship.

“Our customers and ourselves proved already, that the Gallardo is a safe and fast car in sprint format races”, explains Hans Reiter the reason for the next development step. “Now we want to be successful at long distance races too. Our aim is, to have a reliable 24-hour race car, which is able to win.”

Reiter Engineering has already finished the development for new gearbox and aerodynamic parts. The 2012 Holinger gearbox is lighter and made of less parts than the former used version. A more direct and precise shifting process is now possible

“At the front of the car we now have a bigger splitter and double dive plates for more downforce as it is used by the other contenders in GT3”, says Reiter. “

Still in development and testing are new suspension brakets, spring pairings and a performance brake kit. The idea behind the new kinematic is to offer more mechanical grip due to a higher static roll stiffness, which allows softer heave springs. “We also should reduce the pitch moment under braking”, explains Hans Reiter “This would allow softer springs in the front, which increases braking forces and response to the driver.”

Due tot he softer springs, the cars handling over the curbs can be improved. Also a different camber variation should be implemented. Less static camber can be driven, which offers a better use of the tire during acceleration and braking with no disadvantages in corners.

The tire will be scrubbed less and lasts longer during a race, which leads to a better balance and improved track times at the end of a race.

An update is tested for the AP Racing brake system. New six-piston calipers and reworked brake cooling for the front will improve the brake performance in long distance races.

The development oft he new endurance parts will go in January and February 2012 at the 24-hours in Dubai and the Gulf 12-hours in Abu Dhabi under taff conditions.


LP-23.jpg
LP-85.jpg
LP-10.jpg
LP-83.jpg

CAR: Lamborghini Gallardo LP 560-4 '08


Specs
Horsepower: 535 HP at 7100 RPM
Torque: 410.4 ft-lb at 6800 RPM
Weight: 1238 kg
Weight Distribution: 42/58
Performance Points: 554

GT AUTO
NO
Oil Change
Improve Body Rigidity - MANDATORY
Custom Rear Wing :
Wing Mount Standard Type B
Wing Large Type A
Winglets Type A
Height +0 and Width +40
Wheels: Standard Size - OZ Racing Superfogiata in GT Matte Dark Gray (The Color only is Free Choice)
Car Paint: Black, Nero Noctis, Arancio Argos (Free Choice)

Tyres
Sports​

Suspension

KW Springs and Damper
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit

Front, Rear
Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 14.02 16.07
Dampers (Compression): 8 5
Dampers (Extension): 4 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 5
Camber Angle: 2.7 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.04 0.20​

Brakes (Free Choice)
Racing Brakes Kit (Free Choice)

Brake Balance (Free Choice)
4/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.
Recommended setting for DS3 user :
Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/4 or 4/3 brake balance as starting point.​

Transmission
Sequential 6 Speed Homologated Ratio with Sachs Double Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Transmission

Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 5.000
Set Auto Max Speed at 300kmh / 186mph
Adjust each gear:
1st 2.560
2nd 1,850
3rd 1.420
4th 1.140
5th 0.940
6th 0.810
Set Final: 4.700​

Drivetrain
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Carbon Drive Shaft
Torque Distributing Center Differential

Torque Distributing Center Differential

FRONT/REAR Torque Split: 10/90

LSD - Rear 2 way 45% Lock LSD


FRONT
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR
Initial Torque : 27
Acceleration Sensitivity: 27
Braking Sensitivity: 30​

Power

Racing Exhaust
Power Limiter: 90.7%​

Body
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction

Downforce
Rear: 20

Ballast: 78 kg
Ballast Position: 36​

ALL SETTINGS MUST BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY!*
(You risk disqualifying and exclusion from the Club)

*FREE CHOICE:
Colors & Brakes ONLY!

RACING NUMBERS WITH GRAN TURISMO LOGO ARE MANDATORY!
(5 points penalty)

TRACK: Fuji Speedway F
fisco.png

Fuji Speedway is a motorsportrace track standing in the foothills of Mount Fuji, in Oyama, Suntō District, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan.
It was built in the early 1960s and hosted the first Formula One race in Japan in 1976. In the 1980s, Fuji Speedway was used for the FIAWorld Sportscar Championship and national racing.

Originally managed by Mitsubishi Estate Co., Fuji Speedway was acquired by Toyota Motor Corporation in 2000. The circuit hosted the Formula One Japanese Grand Prix in 2007,after an absence of 30 years, replacing the Suzuka Circuit, owned by Honda.

After Fuji Speedway hosted the 2008 race, the Japanese Grand Prix returned to Suzuka for the 2009-onward races. Fuji Speedway is known for having one of the longest straights in motorsport tracks, at 1.5 km (0.93 mi) in length. The circuit has FIA Grade 1 license.



Races: 2 x 30 min
60 min between Starts

Penalty
: Weak

Tyre/Fuel Depletion: Very Fast

Mechanical Damage: Light

Driving Options: No Aids/ABS

Minimum No. of Pit Stops: 0


Courtesy of @Thorin Cain

Track limits
  • The track area is delimited always by the continuous white lines painted on both sides of the track.
  • You are required to keep always at least two wheels inside the track area.
  • The white lines defining the track edges are considered to be part of the track.
Race 1 start type and grid order
Rolling Start - Single File: Reverse Grid Based on the Championship Standings
  • After the game's START signal we'll line-up slowly, in the announced grid order, as single-file, on the left side of the track.
  • When the pole sitter will assure himself that everybody has lined-up, he will move slowly, with 80 kph speed limit and each driver will follow the car in front, without overtaking. The cars movement has to be fluent.
  • The Race will Start for each racer after hitting the first corner's apex.
Race 1 Provisional Starting Grid:
  1. #69 @TurnLeft
  2. #46 @Thorin Cain
  3. #_7 @danbojte
  4. #81 @OdeFinn
  5. #27 @RMan72
XEr2qHLLJWd4vxZqMC_0.jpg



#_3 @ALB123
#_4 @DaBomm4
#11 @Ridox2JZGTE
#21 @joaosoarescso
#44 @Brewguy44
#45 @Lionheart2113
#54 @Lewis_Hamilton_
#89 @BadgerVadge

Anybody can Enter the Championship Anytime, event it is Started. Race when you can or want.
We Love to Race :cool:


Race 2 start type and grid order

Grid Start with False Start Check: Reverse Grid Based on Race 1 Results

New entrants, DNF-ers and DQ'd will start from the back of the Grid, in the order they will join the event.

Important!


- From XMB - Go to Network - Test Internet connection - make sure you have a NAT type 2 connection.

- From GT6 - Go to Menu - Options - Network - Clear system cache.

- Please, double check the settings and rules above.

- The races will Start on time! The room will be opened 30 min before the Race. Join early for take your time to solve the possible connection issues.


Please read and follow the CLUB RULES

When - SCHEDULE

How - JOIN

Results:
Race 1:

Race 2:

Replay Files

Come back often to this post to stay up-to-date!
I have a couple of quick questions about this build.
1- There's quite clearly a full Aero package on the pictures of the Gallardo GT3 provided, yet none listed on the build sheet. Is this correct? and if so, how come no front aero on replica of a car that has a full aero kit :confused:

and...

2- Wheels are listed OZ Racing Superfogiata. This wheel is available in more than one variation, which one are we to use? If there's a theory saying there are differences between the different sets of same model wheels, then we should be mandated to use one or other of these wheels to maintain exact settings across the board, should we not? And if so, how do we know a mandate has been followed as they can be painted to look different anyway? :odd:
 
I have a couple of quick questions about this build.
1- There's quite clearly a full Aero package on the pictures of the Gallardo GT3 provided, yet none listed on the build sheet. Is this correct? and if so, how come no front aero on replica of a car that has a full aero kit :confused:

and...

2- Wheels are listed OZ Racing Superfogiata. This wheel is available in more than one variation, which one are we to use? If there's a theory saying there are differences between the different sets of same model wheels, then we should be mandated to use one or other of these wheels to maintain exact settings across the board, should we not? And if so, how do we know a mandate has been followed as they can be painted to look different anyway? :odd:
You're right, my friend. I'll clear the things up:

1. The picture is just an artistic photo and is not connected with our tune, visually. (By The Way, I don't know why we don't have a Front Aero Kit on our car :drool: , but we don't). I'll change the picture to eliminate the possible confusion. 👍

2. I let the wheels to be OZ Racing Superforgiata to keep close to the RL (Real Life). I couldn't find any documented proves related to the differences between the same model wheels sets, though I don't deny it. :cool:

For our car, we'll use any of the two sets available (we can't control it anyway... :grumpy). If you can find differences between them, use the ones you like most. I personally, am using the second set because they were fitted when I first bought my car (Apr 29, 2014). ;)


I'll make the corrections as soon as possible. :cheers:
 
You're right, my friend. I'll clear the things up:

1. The picture is just an artistic photo and is not connected with our tune, visually. (By The Way, I don't know why we don't have a Front Aero Kit on our car :drool: , but we don't). I'll change the picture to eliminate the possible confusion. 👍

2. I let the wheels to be OZ Racing Superforgiata to keep close to the RL (Real Life). I couldn't find any documented proves related to the differences between the same model wheels sets, though I don't deny it. :cool:

For our car, we'll use any of the two sets available (we can't control it anyway... :grumpy). If you can find differences between them, use the ones you like most. I personally, am using the second set because they were fitted when I first bought my car (Apr 29, 2014). ;)


I'll make the corrections as soon as possible. :cheers:
No problem, just wanted to be sure 👍 I'm using the same set of wheels too, they looked better :D
 
Congratulations on getting the photo of the week, @Thorin Cain! I told you that was an awesome photo!! :D 👍 :cheers:

Yes, congratulations @Thorin Cain for the Picture of the Week. ;) 👍
Thanks guys :)👍 And a big thanks to @Brewguy44 for the nomination :cheers:

On another subject. I can foresee a lot of tyre changes in my near future :dopey:
I had a couple of practice runs with the Gallardo GT3 last night and to say I was struggling is a bit of an understatement :( The car is a lot of fun to be sure 👍 I had a couple of online races with some friends and when we ended up taking a trip to Fuji at 555pp I thought why not...
I used the car on RH for that and really liked the way the car handled overall. Then had a session with SS in the club practice event. The brakes are superb and turning was electric. In the corners however I was struggling. I was finding it difficult to run consistent lines without burning up at least one of the outside tyres, the left rear in particular was taking a lot of abuse, even when I tried to relax the pace a bit :eek: Laptimes were very similar to those @TurnLeft was running earlier in the week with mostly high 1:46-1:47s but the amount of tyre wear was :crazy: I hope I get a pit allocation close to TL, seeing his pit crew quite often may just help me forget about the amount of time I'm going to be losing in all the pit stops I'll be making today :drool: :D

Also, can't say I'm much of a fan about the pitlane entrance on this one :yuck:
 
Well :D, those angels sure worked up a miracle for me in the first race :lol:, @danbojte you should have won that one, sorry that you wiped out like that so close to the end just after passing me, I thought that those moves were exclusive to me :lol:. My rear left tire was down to 2 and I barely had enough gas to cross the finish line.

Second race it seems we (all except Dan) were caught off guard by the start. When trying to make up for the lost time and trying to pass @Thorin Cain I used up my rear left tire to much to use the same strategy as the first race, so I pitted an extra time. I had practiced driving to get the least tire wear possible while maintaining a decent speed and I couldn't understand how you guys were getting in the 1:44, so since I was pitting an extra time I pushed more, was the fastest lap at 1:44.078 for a while until Dan brought it down in the 1:43.xxx, BTW that was a really good lap. I think @OdeFinn went for the 1 stop and it payed off.

That was an interesting and fun 2 races, it's also my first victory :eek:, who would have thought that :lol:. I think I still have one more saturday off before going back to my regular schedule, hope to see you all next week 👍.
 
Well :D, those angels sure worked up a miracle for me in the first race :lol:, @danbojte you should have won that one, sorry that you wiped out like that so close to the end just after passing me, I thought that those moves were exclusive to me :lol:. My rear left tire was down to 2 and I barely had enough gas to cross the finish line.

Second race it seems we (all except Dan) were caught off guard by the start. When trying to make up for the lost time and trying to pass @Thorin Cain I used up my rear left tire to much to use the same strategy as the first race, so I pitted an extra time. I had practiced driving to get the least tire wear possible while maintaining a decent speed and I couldn't understand how you guys were getting in the 1:44, so since I was pitting an extra time I pushed more, was the fastest lap at 1:44.078 for a while until Dan brought it down in the 1:43.xxx, BTW that was a really good lap. I think @OdeFinn went for the 1 stop and it payed off.

That was an interesting and fun 2 races, it's also my first victory :eek:, who would have thought that :lol:. I think I still have one more saturday off before going back to my regular schedule, hope to see you all next week 👍.
Your racing was great today! Very well done! Congratulations! :cheers:
 
1st race I went with original strategy, one stop using SM tires, only reason because my practices were with wrong value on LSD and with those tires wouldn't last one stop using SS tires, as you noticed I made last setting check on race lobby and find out my mistake on settings.. Well second race same one stop with SS and no problems..

This made me feel bit dummy, training on wrong setup and practically surrender on first race, no speed and one lap more than thought means no fuel, so everything went down to toilet(not a joke)..

Second race was fun, first stint went on practising, second started to go much better.
 
EVENT: FEED Fujita RX-7 at Cape Ring

FEED Fujita Engineering Mazda RX-7 FD3S 500PP (link to Original)
Fujita engineering was established in 1982 in Osaka-prefecture, Japan and is globally renowned as a complete Tuner of rotary engine vehicles.
With a Corporate philosophy that resonates to all management and staff at Fujita Engineering of "creating distinctive tuning cars" and supports their philosophy by establishing constant dialog with customers and enthusiasts sharing their passions for the rotary engine vehicles.
Since its establishment, the company has captivated countless rotary fans worldwide. In Japan, Fujita Engineering participates in numerous events like the "Auto Salons", "A Day of the RX7", "Toge MAX", "Tuning Sports Japan", and "Rotary Spirit in SA TODA". For North America, they are excited to be participating in events shortly.

Fujita engineering promotes their products through three brands. FEED ( Fujita Engineering Evolutional Development) is the overall tuning parts, AFFLUX is the aero parts brand, and SONIC is the exhaust system brand.

Fujita Engineering is at the fore front of design and development of performance parts for Mazda rotaries.


Cape Ring Periphery.jpg IMG_20150817_112124.jpgE83mCfIhORs4ShVA8Q_0.jpg

CAR
Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type A (FD) '02​

Specs

Performance Points: 500
Max. Power: 352 BHP at 6600 RPM
Max. Torque: 286.7 ft-lb at 5100 RPM
Weight: 1150 kg
Front/Rear Weight Distribution: 50/50​

Pit Service
Change Oil​

Custom Parts

Aero Kits: Type A
Custom Rear Wing: Wing Stays: E, Wing: D, Winglets: C, Height: +0, Width: +40

Wheels: Inch Up: 1, ADVAN RGII - the First from Four Sets available
Paint
Body and Wheels: The Colors are Free Choice

Tyres
Sports: Hard​

Suspension
FEED Fujita Engineering PRO-F09 Coilover Damper Kit

Hight-Adjustable, Fully Customisable Suspension

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 15.00 15.00
Dampers (Compression): 6 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 5
Camber Angle: 0.2 0.2
Toe Angle: -0.07 0.00​

Brake Discs & Calipers (The Brake Section is Full Free Choice)
Racing Brake Kit

Brake Balance: 4/3 (personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel: 4/3.

Recommended setting for DS3 user: Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off with 4/3 brake balance as starting point.​

Transmission
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Ratio as in real life with custom final​

Fully Customizable Transmission​

Install all power parts, Reset to Default, Final Gear: 4.000, Max. Speed: 360kmh / 224mph
Adjust each gear: 1st: 3.483, 2nd: 2.015, 3rd: 1.391, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.806, 6th: 0.675
Final Gear: 5.250​

Drivetrain
Fully Customisable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Propeller Shaft​

LSD - FEED Fujita Engineering 2 Way LSD Low Locking Rate

Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 22
Braking Sensitivity: 22​

Power
Sports Computer
Semi-Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports

Power Limiter: 94.3%​

Body
Weight Reduction: Stage 1
Carbon Bonnet
Window Weight Reduction​

Downforce: Rear: 25
Ballast: 10 kg, Ballast Position: 50
Racing Number (5 points Penalty if it's missing)
Base: Type E
Typeface: Type A
Number: Your Reserved Number​

ALL SETTINGS MUST BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY!*
*FREE CHOICE: Colors & Brakes ONLY!​



TRACK
Track_cape_ring.png

Circuit Layout

The long Cape Ring circuit combines several long straights, low and medium speed corners and numerous camber and elevation changes. It also features, unique in the Gran Turismo series, a full 360 degree "Spiral bridge" (right) similar to Kawazu-Nanadaru Loop in Japan.

Sector 1
The circuit begins with a long, fast straight leading into a tight, slightly-banked hairpin turn. A good launch is critical here: because of the small radius of the corner, traffic can be very tightly packed around the racing line, so starting the race well can allow the player to overtake four to five cars on the outside, which may in turn lead to a fair bit of clean track before catching up to the car ahead. On the other hand, a poor start can force the driver behind the player to cut to the outside, forcing one to either push the overtaking car to the side or fall in line behind the car ahead. Also, due to the turn's nature, trail braking should be avoided because in many cars the rear end will slip out, potentially resulting in a spin which could possibly end up involving multiple cars. If the rear end begins to feel a bit light on braking, the road is wide enough to simply not turn in until the back of the car is under control again, though the entire corner will be compromised.

From there, the track takes a medium-speed, positively-cambered right-hander with a crest in the middle of it, and this in turn is followed immediately by a downhill left-hander. The positive camber of the right-hand turn combined with its uphill entrance means that it should be easy enough to get the car to bite on turn-in. The crest occurs right at the apex of the turn, providing the driver with two options: sacrifice the exit of the right-hander to be nearer to the apex for the left, or preserve the exit of the right turn to set up for a late entry on the left; really, either one is correct. the only thing the driver needs to watch out for is hitting the crest with the rear end too far out, as doing so can provide a bad setup for the left turn.

After this, the road begins to climb again, starting with a full-throttle right-left series at the bottom of the hill and ending with a tight, difficult left-right chicane at the top. This is one of the briefest, but also the toughest, complex of corners on the circuit. The hill's angle of climb drops off significantly only a few dozen feet before the left turn. Compounding that issue is the fact that the exit of the first turn in the complex is blind, as well as the fact that the road narrows up drastically on its exit. The player should get all of the braking done before entering the left hand turn, and then let the car coast through the center, only applying the gas for the short, uphill sprint to the right turn, which can also be taken full-throttle. The crest of the hill is shortly after its exit, and leads into the first of two nearly identical hairpins on the track. The line here is standard enough: start on the outside of the track, brake hard entering it, touch the curb on the apex, and let the car wash out on the exit. The end of the first sector is just past it.

Sector 2
This is perhaps the least technical sector on the track, but several elements of it can still catch the unwary driver off guard. Its first turn is a sweeping, banked, downhill right-hander which is not very tricky at all. All Le Mans prototypes/Group C cars can take it flat out, as can all Formula One-style cars and both Red Bulls; for these cars, the ideal line is right around the bottom of the turn, whereas many of the faster road cars and GT-style racers will go off the track if this is attempted; for these cars, the line is further towards the outside, so as to set up for the left-right chicane immediately following its exit. Looking at the chicane from its entry or from the track map can lead a driver to think that it can be taken full-throttle, but most cars - excluding F1 cars, slower road cars and the Red Bulls - cannot do this. For most cars, the ideal line is to pull towards the bottom of the track on the exit of the preceding sweeper, which will provide a straight line towards the apex of the left-hand turn at the start of the complex. Once the driver hits the apex, they should start braking immediately, and slightly before the end of the curb switch over to the right-hander, being sure to avoid the curb at its apex. The curb on the left-hand side can then be used as an extra few inches of run-off, making for higher exit speeds.

From there, a small straight leads to a right-hand turn that flows into a left-hander, with both of these going uphill. Because of the placement of the left-hand turn, the right-hander must be entered late so that the player can have an ideal setup for the left-hander. A touch of trail braking is necessary for this to occur. Once at the left-hander, follow the inside curb all the way through it, and pinch off the exit slightly. This will allow the tight right turn at the top of the hill to be entered optimally, and the car should be able to follow the curb through it without any problems. Once again, avoid trail-braking, as the rear end could potentially slip out. After the exit of this turn is a short straight, in the center of which the sector ends.

Sector 3
On the other end of the straight is an oddly-shaped, quadruple-apex right-hand turn. It can be difficult to hit all four apexes, so to start with, enter the turn early (right at the start of the curb on the left side), trail-braking briefly. The early entry and the trail braking should provide the player with an optimal angle-of-attack for the second apex. which should be more-or-less coasted through, with small brake and gas inputs to adjust the car's attitude. It is also a good idea to run over the curb on the apex slightly. Swinging out from this apex will allow the driver to attack the next one in much the same way. After the fourth and final apex, however, is a tight left turn. Riding the curb on the fourth apex and braking right as the car arrives at it will allow the driver to switch over and enter the left turn early. Once again, it is ideal to place the left-side wheels on the other side of the curb; doing so will make then snag on the other side of it, helping to steer the car. Be careful not to take this turn too quickly, as doing so will force the player to run off of the track and join the road on the right side to maintain control of the car.

After this turn comes the second of the two identical hairpins. Once again, Get over to the right side of the track, brake hard entering, hit the throttle at the apex, and let the car swing out. On its exit is a slight, full-throttle right-hand bend, which is followed by a short straight terminated by a tighter, cambered left-hand bend. This one is easy, as long as the player enters relatively early and coasts (or even brakes slightly) through its center.

On the other side of a short, uphill straight is a severe jump. The first time one drives a specific car over it, they should slow down for it, taking note of how far the front end hikes up and adjusting their driving style accordingly. Some cars will nosedive going over it, while others will strike the ground with the rear bumper first; for both of these, the ideal remedy is to slow down going over the jump. Some rare cars will be able to remain more-or-less level while in midair; these will be able to take it flat-out, provided they are facing exactly straight when hitting it. After this is the track's signature element: the loop. The car should be kept in the middle of the road for most of the downhill, 360-degree turn, with a slight angle towards the end to the inside of the track. Simply turn tighter and/or let off the throttle to keep the car in the center of the road. About three quarters of the way through it, the banking, steep at first, will slowly start tapering off; when this happens, the player must gradually begin rolling out of the throttle so as to avoid hitting the wall at the bottom.

Sector 4
This is the shortest of the sectors, and begins at the bottom of the loop. There is an uphill, banked, left-hand bend to start it off, which should be entered fairly early. After turning in, trail-brake up until the center of the turn, and then let the car coast for a few feet before reapplying the throttle on the exit. At this point, the next turn in the track (an uphill, full-throttle left) will be revealed. As soon as the driver sees it, they should angle for its apex. Past this turn, there is a sharp crest which must be taken straight on, as hitting it at any angle other than dead straight will cause extreme oversteer; some cars will even lift the front wheels slightly off the ground here. The car should be in the center of the track for the turn at the bottom: a loose left-hander with positive banking. Most cars should be able to roll through this with only minor braking, as long as the turn is entered early. After this, a small left-hand turn leads to the final 90-degree right-hander. Coast through the left-hand turn, and enter the final turn late and with heavy braking. Once at the apex, begin rolling into the throttle, and let the car swing out for the long start-finish straight.

Inspiration and location
The circuit is apparently based off the tight, twisty public roads used in touge events. This type of road is well known among automotive enthusiasts in Japan, and is usually staged illegally at night. The sport was brought to the international limelight via the popular manga series Initial D as well as game series like Tokyo Extreme Racer and Kaido Battle.

If one pays attention to the background, one will spot a mountain that looks rather like Mount Fuji, which indicates that it may be located near Fuji Speedway. There is a possibility that the circuit is located in the southeastern part of the region, because of the fact that if one looks over the edge of the mountain, a city similar to Izu can be seen. The presence of a sea off the right-hand side of the track when approaching the jump into the spiral further reinforces this.

The most famous corner of Cape Ring - the spiral - is also inspired by Japanese roads. The spiral bears a strong resemblance to the Kawazu-Nanadaru Loop Bridge, located in Kawazu region, Shizuoka prefecture.



Races: 2 x 30 min, 60 min between Starts

Penalty: Weak, Tyre/Fuel Depletion: Very Fast, Mechanical Damage: Light, Driving Options: No Aids/ABS, Minimum No. of Pit Stops: 0

Track limits
  • The track area is delimited always by the continuous white lines painted on both sides of the track.
  • You are required to keep always at least two wheels inside the track area.
  • The white lines defining the track edges are considered to be part of the track.
Race 1 Start Type and Grid Order
Rolling Start - Single File: Reverse Grid Based on the Championship Standings
  • After the START signal we'll line-up slowly, as single-file, on the left side of the track.
  • The Pole Sitter will check if everybody has lined-up and will drive at 80 kph speed limit and each car will follow, without overtaking. The cars movement has to be fluent.
  • The Race will Start for each racer after hitting the first corner's apex.
Race 2 Start Type and Grid Order

Grid Start with False Start Check: Reverse Grid Based on Race 1 Results
The new entrants, DNF-ers and DQ'd will start from the back of the Grid, in the order they will Enter the Event in Community Section.
Race 1 Provisional Starting Grid:
  1. #46 @Thorin Cain
  2. #27 @RMan72
  3. #69 @TurnLeft
  4. #_7 @danbojte
  5. #81 @OdeFinn

#_3 @ALB123
#_4 @DaBomm4
#11 @Ridox2JZGTE
#21 @joaosoarescso
#44 @Brewguy44
#45 @Lionheart2113
#54 @Lewis_Hamilton_
#89 @BadgerVadge

Anybody can Enter to the Championship anytime, even if it is Started. Race when you can or want. We Love to Race :cool:


Important!

- NAT type 2 - From XMB - Go to Network - Test Internet connection - make sure you have a NAT type 2connection.

- Clear the System Cache - From GT6 - Go to Menu - Options - Network - Clear System Cache.

- Double Check - Please, Double Check the Settings and the Rules.

- Join Early - The Races will Start on Time! The Room will be opened 30 min or earlier, before the Race Start. Join early, to take your time to solve the possible Connection issues.

Please read and follow the CLUB RULES

When - Sat, August 22, 12:00 GMT

How - JOIN

Results:
Race 1:
Feed Fujita RX-7 Race 1 Results.jpg


Race 2:
Feed Fujita RX-7 Race 2 Results.jpg

Race 2 Beautiful Race Report by @TurnLeft

Replay Files Download

Come back often to this post to stay up-to-date!
 
Last edited:
EVENT: FEED Fujita RX-7 at Cape Ring

FEED Fujita Engineering Mazda RX-7 FD3S 500PP (link to Original)
Fujita engineering was established in 1982 in Osaka-prefecture, Japan and is globally renowned as a complete Tuner of rotary engine vehicles.
With a Corporate philosopy that resonates to all management and staff at Fujita Engineering of "creating distinctive tuning cars" and supports their philosophy by establishing constant dialong with customers and enthusiasts sharing their passions for the rotary engine vehicles.
Since its estabilishment, the company has captivated countless rotary fans worldwide. In Japan, Fujita Engineering participates in numerous enents like the "Auto Salons", "A Day of the RX7", "Toge MAX", "Tuning Sports Japan", and "Rotary Spirit in SA TODA". For North America, they are excited to be participating in events shortly.

Fujita engineering promotes their products through three brands. FEED ( Fujita Engineering Evolutional Development) is the overall tuning parts, AFFLUX is the aero parts brand, and SONIC is the exhaust system brand.

Fujita Engineering is at the fore front of design and development of performance parts for Mazda rotaries.

View attachment 431584

CAR
Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type A (FD) '02​

Specs

Performance Points: 500
Max. Power: 352 BHP at 6600 RPM
Max. Torque: 286.7 ft-lb at 5100 RPM
Weight: 1150 kg
Front/Rear Weight Distribution: 50/50​

Pit Service
Change Oil​

Custom Parts

Aero Kits: Type A
Custom Rear Wing: Wing Stays: E, Wing: D, Winglets: C, Height: +0, Width: +40

Wheels: Inch Up: 1, ADVAN RGII - the First from Four Sets available
Paint
Body and Wheels: The Colors are Free Choice

Tyres
Sports: Hard​

Suspension
FEED Fujita Engineering PRO-F09 Coilover Damper Kit

Hight-Adjustable, Fully Customisable Suspension

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 15.00 15.00
Dampers (Compression): 6 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 5
Camber Angle: 0.2 0.2
Toe Angle: -0.07 0.00​

Brake Discs & Calipers (The Brake Section is Full Free Choice)
Racing Brake Kit

Brake Balance: 4/3 (personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel: 4/3.

Recommended setting for DS3 user: Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off with 4/3 brake balance as starting point.​

Transmission
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Ratio as in real life with custom final​

Fully Customizable Transmission​

Install all power parts, Reset to Default, Final Gear: 4.000, Max. Speed: 360kmh / 224mph
Adjust each gear: 1st: 3.483, 2nd: 2.015, 3rd: 1.391, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.806, 6th: 0.675
Final Gear: 5.250​

Drivetrain
Fully Customisable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Propeller Shaft​

LSD - FEED Fujita Engineering 2 Way LSD Low Locking Rate

Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 22
Braking Sensitivity: 22​

Power
Sports Computer
Semi-Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports

Power Limiter: 94.3%​

Body
Weight Reduction: Stage 1
Carbon Bonnet
Window Weight Reduction​

Downforce: Rear: 25
Ballast: 10 kg, Ballast Position: 50
Racing Number (5 points Penalty if it's missing)
Base: Type E
Typeface: Type A
Number: Your Reserved Number​

ALL SETTINGS MUST BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY!*
*FREE CHOICE: Colors & Brakes ONLY!​



TRACK
View attachment 431790
Circuit Layout

The long Cape Ring circuit combines several long straights, low and medium speed corners and numerous camber and elevation changes. It also features, unique in the Gran Turismo series, a full 360 degree "Spiral bridge" (right) similar to Kawazu-Nanadaru Loop in Japan.

Sector 1
The circuit begins with a long, fast straight leading into a tight, slightly-banked hairpin turn. A good launch is critical here: because of the small radius of the corner, traffic can be very tightly packed around the racing line, so starting the race well can allow the player to overtake four to five cars on the outside, which may in turn lead to a fair bit of clean track before catching up to the car ahead. On the other hand, a poor start can force the driver behind the player to cut to the outside, forcing one to either push the overtaking car to the side or fall in line behind the car ahead. Also, due to the turn's nature, trail braking should be avoided because in many cars the rear end will slip out, potentially resulting in a spin which could possibly end up involving multiple cars. If the rear end begins to feel a bit light on braking, the road is wide enough to simply not turn in until the back of the car is under control again, though the entire corner will be compromised.

From there, the track takes a medium-speed, positively-cambered right-hander with a crest in the middle of it, and this in turn is followed immediately by a downhill left-hander. The positive camber of the right-hand turn combined with its uphill entrance means that it should be easy enough to get the car to bite on turn-in. The crest occurs right at the apex of the turn, providing the driver with two options: sacrifice the exit of the right-hander to be nearer to the apex for the left, or preserve the exit of the right turn to set up for a late entry on the left; really, either one is correct. the only thing the driver needs to watch out for is hitting the crest with the rear end too far out, as doing so can provide a bad setup for the left turn.

After this, the road begins to climb again, starting with a full-throttle right-left series at the bottom of the hill and ending with a tight, difficult left-right chicane at the top. This is one of the briefest, but also the toughest, complex of corners on the circuit. The hill's angle of climb drops off significantly only a few dozen feet before the left turn. Compounding that issue is the fact that the exit of the first turn in the complex is blind, as well as the fact that the road narrows up drastically on its exit. The player should get all of the braking done before entering the left hand turn, and then let the car coast through the center, only applying the gas for the short, uphill sprint to the right turn, which can also be taken full-throttle. The crest of the hill is shortly after its exit, and leads into the first of two nearly identical hairpins on the track. The line here is standard enough: start on the outside of the track, brake hard entering it, touch the curb on the apex, and let the car wash out on the exit. The end of the first sector is just past it.

Sector 2
This is perhaps the least technical sector on the track, but several elements of it can still catch the unwary driver off guard. Its first turn is a sweeping, banked, downhill right-hander which is not very tricky at all. All Le Mans prototypes/Group C cars can take it flat out, as can all Formula One-style cars and both Red Bulls; for these cars, the ideal line is right around the bottom of the turn, whereas many of the faster road cars and GT-style racers will go off the track if this is attempted; for these cars, the line is further towards the outside, so as to set up for the left-right chicane immediately following its exit. Looking at the chicane from its entry or from the track map can lead a driver to think that it can be taken full-throttle, but most cars - excluding F1 cars, slower road cars and the Red Bulls - cannot do this. For most cars, the ideal line is to pull towards the bottom of the track on the exit of the preceding sweeper, which will provide a straight line towards the apex of the left-hand turn at the start of the complex. Once the driver hits the apex, they should start braking immediately, and slightly before the end of the curb switch over to the right-hander, being sure to avoid the curb at its apex. The curb on the left-hand side can then be used as an extra few inches of run-off, making for higher exit speeds.

From there, a small straight leads to a right-hand turn that flows into a left-hander, with both of these going uphill. Because of the placement of the left-hand turn, the right-hander must be entered late so that the player can have an ideal setup for the left-hander. A touch of trail braking is necessary for this to occur. Once at the left-hander, follow the inside curb all the way through it, and pinch off the exit slightly. This will allow the tight right turn at the top of the hill to be entered optimally, and the car should be able to follow the curb through it without any problems. Once again, avoid trail-braking, as the rear end could potentially slip out. After the exit of this turn is a short straight, in the center of which the sector ends.

Sector 3
On the other end of the straight is an oddly-shaped, quadruple-apex right-hand turn. It can be difficult to hit all four apexes, so to start with, enter the turn early (right at the start of the curb on the left side), trail-braking briefly. The early entry and the trail braking should provide the player with an optimal angle-of-attack for the second apex. which should be more-or-less coasted through, with small brake and gas inputs to adjust the car's attitude. It is also a good idea to run over the curb on the apex slightly. Swinging out from this apex will allow the driver to attack the next one in much the same way. After the fourth and final apex, however, is a tight left turn. Riding the curb on the fourth apex and braking right as the car arrives at it will allow the driver to switch over and enter the left turn early. Once again, it is ideal to place the left-side wheels on the other side of the curb; doing so will make then snag on the other side of it, helping to steer the car. Be careful not to take this turn too quickly, as doing so will force the player to run off of the track and join the road on the right side to maintain control of the car.

After this turn comes the second of the two identical hairpins. Once again, Get over to the right side of the track, brake hard entering, hit the throttle at the apex, and let the car swing out. On its exit is a slight, full-throttle right-hand bend, which is followed by a short straight terminated by a tighter, cambered left-hand bend. This one is easy, as long as the player enters relatively early and coasts (or even brakes slightly) through its center.

On the other side of a short, uphill straight is a severe jump. The first time one drives a specific car over it, they should slow down for it, taking note of how far the front end hikes up and adjusting their driving style accordingly. Some cars will nosedive going over it, while others will strike the ground with the rear bumper first; for both of these, the ideal remedy is to slow down going over the jump. Some rare cars will be able to remain more-or-less level while in midair; these will be able to take it flat-out, provided they are facing exactly straight when hitting it. After this is the track's signature element: the loop. The car should be kept in the middle of the road for most of the downhill, 360-degree turn, with a slight angle towards the end to the inside of the track. Simply turn tighter and/or let off the throttle to keep the car in the center of the road. About three quarters of the way through it, the banking, steep at first, will slowly start tapering off; when this happens, the player must gradually begin rolling out of the throttle so as to avoid hitting the wall at the bottom.

Sector 4
This is the shortest of the sectors, and begins at the bottom of the loop. There is an uphill, banked, left-hand bend to start it off, which should be entered fairly early. After turning in, trail-brake up until the center of the turn, and then let the car coast for a few feet before reapplying the throttle on the exit. At this point, the next turn in the track (an uphill, full-throttle left) will be revealed. As soon as the driver sees it, they should angle for its apex. Past this turn, there is a sharp crest which must be taken straight on, as hitting it at any angle other than dead straight will cause extreme oversteer; some cars will even lift the front wheels slightly off the ground here. The car should be in the center of the track for the turn at the bottom: a loose left-hander with positive banking. Most cars should be able to roll through this with only minor braking, as long as the turn is entered early. After this, a small left-hand turn leads to the final 90-degree right-hander. Coast through the left-hand turn, and enter the final turn late and with heavy braking. Once at the apex, begin rolling into the throttle, and let the car swing out for the long start-finish straight.

Inspiration and location
The circuit is apparently based off the tight, twisty public roads used in touge events. This type of road is well known among automotive enthusiasts in Japan, and is usually staged illegally at night. The sport was brought to the international limelight via the popular manga series Initial D as well as game series like Tokyo Extreme Racer and Kaido Battle.

If one pays attention to the background, one will spot a mountain that looks rather like Mount Fuji, which indicates that it may be located near Fuji Speedway. There is a possibility that the circuit is located in the southeastern part of the region, because of the fact that if one looks over the edge of the mountain, a city similar to Izu can be seen. The presence of a sea off the right-hand side of the track when approaching the jump into the spiral further reinforces this.

The most famous corner of Cape Ring - the spiral - is also inspired by Japanese roads. The spiral bears a strong resemblance to the Kawazu-Nanadaru Loop Bridge, located in Kawazu region, Shizuoka prefecture.



Races: 2 x 30 min, 60 min between Starts

Penalty: Weak, Tyre/Fuel Depletion: Very Fast, Mechanical Damage: Light, Driving Options: No Aids/ABS, Minimum No. of Pit Stops: 0

Track limits
  • The track area is delimited always by the continuous white lines painted on both sides of the track.
  • You are required to keep always at least two wheels inside the track area.
  • The white lines defining the track edges are considered to be part of the track.
Race 1 Start Type and Grid Order
Rolling Start - Single File: Reverse Grid Based on the Championship Standings
  • After the START signal we'll line-up slowly, as single-file, on the left side of the track.
  • The Pole Sitter will check if everybody has lined-up and will drive at 80 kph speed limit and each car will follow, without overtaking. The cars movement has to be fluent.
  • The Race will Start for each racer after hitting the first corner's apex.
Race 2 Start Type and Grid Order

Grid Start with False Start Check: Reverse Grid Based on Race 1 Results
The new entrants, DNF-ers and DQ'd will start from the back of the Grid, in the order they will Enter the Event in Community Section.

Race 1 Provisional Starting Grid:
  1. #46 @Thorin Cain
  2. #27 @RMan72
  3. #69 @TurnLeft
  4. #_7 @danbojte
  5. #81 @OdeFinn

Anybody can Enter to the Championship anytime, even if it is Started. Race when you can or want. We Love to Race :cool:


Important!

- NAT type 2 - From XMB - Go to Network - Test Internet connection - make sure you have a NAT type 2connection.

- Clear the System Cache - From GT6 - Go to Menu - Options - Network - Clear System Cache.

- Double Check - Please, Double Check the Settings and the Rules.

- Join Early - The Races will Start on Time! The Room will be opened 30 min or earlier, before the Race Start. Join early, to take your time to solve the possible Connection issues.

Please read and follow the CLUB RULES

When - SCHEDULE (TBA!)

How - JOIN (for PRACTICE)

Results:
Race 1:​

Race 2:​

Replay Files Download

Come back often to this post to stay up-to-date!
This should be interesting, the full version of this track doesn't come up too often :) I just bought thecar recently too, will be a nice way to break it in :D

Nice job on the post @danbojte, I really like the spoilers 👍 Superb track report my friend :bowdown: :cheers:
 
Oh boy :eek:, this one is going to be something. PD have included almost every type of curves in this track, plus hills, a loop and some diabolic hairpins. I rarely if ever use this track because there are just too many technical things going on to try to keep equal lap times, but it should make for some fun race, so I'm off to buy the RX7 and see what I can do here, I'll post my results when I get some. I didn't check yet what the tire options will be for this race so I'll go READ the fine print properly this time :lol: too make sure I understood everything like starting procedures :D.

One thing that I did notice is that you put @RMan72 second on the starting grid, que passa? We want to slow him down :mischievous: not give him a 👍 to victory,
 
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