If it was possible to forget that I HATE VIR, this latest practice sessions made offline for setup tweaking + your daily lap times on the leaderboar, assure that I wouldn't forget about it!
1'33''85! This is my best time and I possible can't figure out where will I find another extra 3 seconds to be in the highs 1'30''s.
Any suggestions?
My setup is:
Ride Height - Front: full - / Rear: full +
Roll Bars - Hard/Hard
Springs - Hard/Soft
Dampers - Soft/Soft
Camber - full negative F/R
Toe - almost full negative F/R
Question: all the turns, except turn 1 and the one uphill leading for the track short version, seems to be made in 3rd gear. Is this consistent to your experience?
Oh and I wrote the other day that I had done around 170 laps all togetter on VIR.That is far from right.I had 209 offline and 370 online.
A few days ago, during an online race, I did a 1'28.40. When I had a look at the leaderboard later, it showed a 1'28.39. I'm pretty sure they don't do any kind of rounding of laptimes, as we would have all seen it before.
My setup is:
Ride Height - Front: full - / Rear: full +
Roll Bars - Hard/Hard
Springs - Hard/Soft
Dampers - Soft/Soft
Camber - full negative F/R
Toe - almost full negative F/R
1'33''85! This is my best time and I possible can't figure out where will I find another extra 3 seconds to be in the highs 1'30''s.
Any suggestions?
I'm running soft springs F/R. Hard front doesn't give much/any pace, and just makes it rough over curbs.
Is there a particular reason to run maximum negative toe? This will make the car very lazy turning-in to corners. I know I said toe doesn't make much difference for raw pace, but I suppose that's only for me personally; when I tried negative toe, I just did some things a bit differently to keep the pace. If you try positive toe, you may find more pace.
Don't sweep out wide exiting turn 1, and through turn 2. Hold on to the apex of turn 1 even when the curb disappears, just for a few extra metres, get on the throttle, and never sweep out past the middle of the track. With this kind of car (weight, traction, cornering speed) I suppose it's just slower covering the extra distance out wide with not much benefit through better acceleration.
Try to slingshot 'Nascar Bend'. Clip the apex (don't use curb) and when you do so, be on maximum throttle. If you can't be on maximum throttle as you catch the apex, then the line is wrong, or else you're carrying too much speed in.
With turn 7, similar to turn 3, don't turn in too early; get a late-ish apex in 2nd gear, this time around 50% throttle. Can't do full throttle as it gets light over the crest. But it's essential to be on the throttle early up the hill; maybe 20-30% before the apex. You can really only get on full throttle when you've cleared the crest.
This is one of the hardest spots to me - to nail the exact braking point entering turn 1. I believe the ideal would be close (or even in) the 100 meters sign.
What do you mean exactly with 'slingshot'?
In the setup menu, I put the toe maximum to the left, and on track it seemed sluggish on turning in. I put it back all the way to the right, and it appeared more responsive on the turn-in. I could be wrong, but it appeared to have that affect.
Did a couple of online races with GTP_DEVIE. He's got some great pace - will be a strong contender. Just reminded me how difficult it will be to overtake on this track. This is why anyone in the mid 1'29s or better has a great chance to win; if you can get in the lead and make no mistakes, it's really really tough for anyone behind to overtake.
I don't know about a tuning bug, but is anyone else encountering this: although there are a few screens I can activate in the leaderboards section, I can't access any of the 348 Challenge screens, & if I keep trying, I eventually get a frozen screen & have to "force-quit" the game?
I don't know about a tuning bug, but is anyone else encountering this: although there are a few screens I can activate in the leaderboards section, I can't access any of the 348 Challenge screens, & if I keep trying, I eventually get a frozen screen & have to "force-quit" the game?
Actually with the slider full left (negative), they should respond more quickly to steering inputs, but (and this is the key) they will have less stability and grip, and the rear tires will tend to push them (understeer).
With the slider full right (positive), the two front wheels are actually rolling on lines that intersect which makes that pair of wheels very stable and when you turn the wheel, the rear of the car tends to rotate around that very stable pair of wheels. However, it takes more rotation of the steering wheel to actually induce a turn. (i.e, poorer steering response)
The difference is probably not important here as most people probably think about it the same way you do, but knowing that the pair of wheels that has more positive toe will be more stable can be helpful in tuning.
I didn't get an answer to this. Is anyone else having this problem? I also found that last night I couldn't enter the tuning screen. This is starting to get me worried that I might have a game-save corruption problem. Any suggestions anyone?
There may be some corruption somewhere. I notice some nights it takes a while for the leaderboard times to appear and the spinning circle in the bottom right keeps turning. But refreshing it a 2nd time usually brings it up immediately. But I'm assuming that's not the same issue you're having?
No. It's not entirely consistent - sometimes I can access a few leaderboard record screens before it freezes. But last night, for the first time, it wouldn't let me into the tuning screens either. I then tried starting the game under a different user & was able to get into the 348 Challenge Leaderboards - briefly - until it again froze.
I'm beginning to suspect ...
sabotage!![]()
Yeah it is the revenge of the Mandolin Racing Club members for their elder member betrayal and breaking the supreme rule-Being Slow
That way you are deprived of seing your new great-1,29,xx-P.B👍
P.S: I'de like to believe that those nail settings tips I gave You had something to do with it...![]()
Well, I just ran about 50 laps in total between this morning and this afternoon. About 1/3 in the wet. I made a few small adjustments to my setup (probably making it a hair slower) but I feel more confident and I'm actually feeling much better now. I still made some mistakes but I no longer feel so 'lost' as I did this time last week.
I wish I could say the same.The rhythm of this track just isn't sinking into my thick skull the way the previous tracks did. I have laps in the 1:30's - high 1:29's but they're mixed in with 1:31's and even 1:32's.
I'm comfortable with the setup so I'm just going to have to practice when I get time and hope it sinks in.
PS. I would like to have official permission to have nitrous oxide installed on my Ferrari 348 Callenge... because it's just too 🤬-ing slow...![]()
Hmmm. Manny, so what about combinations of +/- F/R toe, and -/+ F/R toe? When you said above about the effects of the slider "all the way to the left", are you talking about just F, for F & R?
It's a little different, but not a lot...
Positive Toe (slider to the right) on the rear will stabilize the back wheels and give you more grip, but will increase your turn radius. Too much positive toe may mean you'll find your car going wide into corners.
Negative Toe on the rear will help the car rotate (like 4-wheel steering on some cars), but you give up some stability and grip and too much negative toe on a twisty track will cause a lot of oversteer.
These things are fairly easy to understand.
The hard part is trying to figure out how to best set both front and rear settings for a particular track. Large (positive or negative) toe settings also can make the car unpredictable and hard to control when you hit curbs, so that's also something to consider.