Show us your Gran Turismo racing set-up

  • Thread starter Famine
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FA_Hayes
Rock on, man and thanks.

Yep. The rack from Simlab allows you to invert anything. Spacers would be simple on a lathe but I'm a fan of being able to change adjustments if I want to tweak things.

I have the performance kit for the brake too and also struggled with feel. I play console right now so anything hydraulic is out of the question.

I did end up going with a lighter pedal with less travel after realizing I should look at it as controlling the game and not trying ao hard to recreate realism. Regardless of the pedal type we will never have the feeling of the car slowing when we grab the brake.

Having something really heavy wasn't good for my foot and fatigue because I drive so much. I use two of the small red springs with a cut down green spring to eliminate some of the travel. Ditching the foam spacer made a big difference.

That coupled with the dampener gives a decent hydraulic feel although a bit softer than a normal pedal and allowed trailbraking easier for me.
Click to expand...
Trailbraking is exactly where my issue is, I dont get enough braking from slight pressure on the brake pedal. The feel is good for hard and medium stopping effort, I just can't get it sensitive enough.
 
fastone371
Trailbraking is exactly where my issue is, I dont get enough braking from slight pressure on the brake pedal. The feel is good for hard and medium stopping effort, I just can't get it sensitive enough.
Click to expand...
Speaking purely on GT sport and how I drive.

I've found rebound of the pedal to be the most important. Especially with the non linear ramp in the games throttle and brake.

Right now I have my max limit set as far as I can physically push the pedal although I don't push it that far on track. This allows me to fine tune the sensitivity setting on track to the car I'm driving.

As I push the pedal I can feel a threshold at 50% as it tightens up and 100 just as it gets quite firm. When setting the sensitivity I tune the ramp of the hid indicator to match what my foot is doing or just a little quicker since I don't stab the brake down to unsettle the car too much. Sensitivity settings range from 50 to 65 unless it's GR2. Which is around 30 to 35.

It's taken alot of experimenting and in the beginning I faulted settings instead of ability. The latter is more important and I've found feel or what I wanted in my head did in translate to what works in game. Once I lightened up the brake a bit, trail braking became easy but i still have a way to go in skill.

This may change in the future as skill develops. I would prefer a stiffer brake but fatigue is a big issue after 12 laps for me.
 
FA_Hayes
Speaking purely on GT sport and how I drive.

I've found rebound of the pedal to be the most important. Especially with the non linear ramp in the games throttle and brake.

Right now I have my max limit set as far as I can physically push the pedal although I don't push it that far on track. This allows me to fine tune the sensitivity setting on track to the car I'm driving.

As I push the pedal I can feel a threshold at 50% as it tightens up and 100 just as it gets quite firm. When setting the sensitivity I tune the ramp of the hid indicator to match what my foot is doing or just a little quicker since I don't stab the brake down to unsettle the car too much. Sensitivity settings range from 50 to 65 unless it's GR2. Which is around 30 to 35.

It's taken alot of experimenting and in the beginning I faulted settings instead of ability. The latter is more important and I've found feel or what I wanted in my head did in translate to what works in game. Once I lightened up the brake a bit, trail braking became easy but i still have a way to go in skill.

This may change in the future as skill develops. I would prefer a stiffer brake but fatigue is a big issue after 12 laps for me.
Click to expand...
On my Fanatec V3 brake pedal I have it set for a light setting for trail braking, and it is helping me big time than having a stiffer brake.
 
FA_Hayes
Speaking purely on GT sport and how I drive.

I've found rebound of the pedal to be the most important. Especially with the non linear ramp in the games throttle and brake.

Right now I have my max limit set as far as I can physically push the pedal although I don't push it that far on track. This allows me to fine tune the sensitivity setting on track to the car I'm driving.

As I push the pedal I can feel a threshold at 50% as it tightens up and 100 just as it gets quite firm. When setting the sensitivity I tune the ramp of the hid indicator to match what my foot is doing or just a little quicker since I don't stab the brake down to unsettle the car too much. Sensitivity settings range from 50 to 65 unless it's GR2. Which is around 30 to 35.

It's taken alot of experimenting and in the beginning I faulted settings instead of ability. The latter is more important and I've found feel or what I wanted in my head did in translate to what works in game. Once I lightened up the brake a bit, trail braking became easy but i still have a way to go in skill.

This may change in the future as skill develops. I would prefer a stiffer brake but fatigue is a big issue after 12 laps for me.
Click to expand...
What wheelbase are you using?
 
fordlaser
On my Fanatec V3 brake pedal I have it set for a light setting for trail braking, and it is helping me big time than having a stiffer brake.
Click to expand...
Good stuff. We tend to be more accurate not having to exert so much force.
Yard_Sale
What wheelbase are you using?
Click to expand...
DD1. Pic was before I inverted the pedals.
20210703_170959.jpg
 
FA_Hayes
Speaking purely on GT sport and how I drive.

I've found rebound of the pedal to be the most important. Especially with the non linear ramp in the games throttle and brake.

Right now I have my max limit set as far as I can physically push the pedal although I don't push it that far on track. This allows me to fine tune the sensitivity setting on track to the car I'm driving.

As I push the pedal I can feel a threshold at 50% as it tightens up and 100 just as it gets quite firm. When setting the sensitivity I tune the ramp of the hid indicator to match what my foot is doing or just a little quicker since I don't stab the brake down to unsettle the car too much. Sensitivity settings range from 50 to 65 unless it's GR2. Which is around 30 to 35.

It's taken alot of experimenting and in the beginning I faulted settings instead of ability. The latter is more important and I've found feel or what I wanted in my head did in translate to what works in game. Once I lightened up the brake a bit, trail braking became easy but i still have a way to go in skill.

This may change in the future as skill develops. I would prefer a stiffer brake but fatigue is a big issue after 12 laps for me.
Click to expand...
When you say "max limits" how do you set them? Right now I am using a CSI Elite with V3 pedals.
 
Lomic
How do you prevent your chair from rolling away/rotating when pushing the pedals ?
Click to expand...
At the end of the platform for the pedals I made an opening for the wheels and reinforced this opening with a stainless steel profile towards the rear. This allows me to use the roll precisely and nothing slips. There is still flex in the chair, but in the next construction phase a real racing seat will be placed where the chair is. The pedals are firmly bolted to the platform.
 
Neat ! Did not opened the image where we can see the wheel blocked by the platform. Does not prevent rotation but at least the chair won't move away.
 
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Lomic
Neat ! Did not opened the image where we can see the wheel blocked by the platform. Does not prevent rotation but at least the chair won't move away.
Click to expand...
Yes
The rotation is limited because I ride with only 40% brake pressure on the LCM. I've got a bad knee from a motorcycle accident and I can't hold that high pressure for long.

The opportunity to turn the chair is actually a good thing for me, because it gives me the opportunity to move around a bit during the waiting breaks.
 
Yard_Sale
Question, how many NM’s you run your DD1 at? Currently debating which base to buy between the DD1 and the CSL DD..
Click to expand...
To use PS I think you're limited to CSL DD or the Podium. I am looking to upgrade, I'm pretty sure I going to get a Podium but not for the real high force feedback but because I think it will offer more detail. On my CSL Elite I usually have FFB set to 40-50 (I can't remember what they call it in the settings on the Elite, 1 adjustment is for how much feeling you get the other is for how heavy the wheel is, I am talking about the setting that makes the wheel heavy or light)
 
fastone371
To use PS I think you're limited to CSL DD or the Podium. I am looking to upgrade, I'm pretty sure I going to get a Podium but not for the real high force feedback but because I think it will offer more detail. On my CSL Elite I usually have FFB set to 40-50 (I can't remember what they call it in the settings on the Elite, 1 adjustment is for how much feeling you get the other is for how heavy the wheel is, I am talking about the setting that makes the wheel heavy or light)
Click to expand...
Detail it has for sure but is limited to what the game provides. Hopefully GT7 will take better advantage of it.

I love my DD1. Too much FFB can kill detail unless you tune it right. I've found messing with the intensity setting increases detail where I can start to feel percieved tire flex as you start to load the FFB instead of just a wall of resistance.

Running it around 30 or 40 atm and it's quite useful, especially in quick chicanes. It also helps me battle the lack understeer detail the game is known for. The wheel not going light under that condition always bugs me.
 
FA_Hayes
Detail it has for sure but is limited to what the game provides. Hopefully GT7 will take better advantage of it.

I love my DD1. Too much FFB can kill detail unless you tune it right. I've found messing with the intensity setting increases detail where I can start to feel percieved tire flex as you start to load the FFB instead of just a wall of resistance.

Running it around 30 or 40 atm and it's quite useful, especially in quick chicanes. It also helps me battle the lack understeer detail the game is known for. The wheel not going light under that condition always bugs me.
Click to expand...
Are you using a Drivehub? Fanatec told my that the DD1 & DD2 were not compatible with PS which seems kind of strange because I thought the the Podium and DD1 were one and the same, the wheel itself being the difference. That's why I was considering the Podium F1, I really don't want an F1 wheel, I would rather have a close to round or D shaped wheel although I'm sure I could get used to it.
 
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fastone371
Are you using a Drivehub? Fanatec told my that the DD1 & DD2 were not compatible with PS which seems kind of strange because I thought the the Podium and DD1 were one and the same, the wheel itself being the difference. That's why I was considering the Podium F1, I really don't want an F1 wheel, I would rather have a close to round or D shaped wheel although I'm sure I could get used to it.
Click to expand...
I have the Podium F1 and purchased the Porsche wheel. The F1 wheel is on the shelf for back up.

I used it for a little bit but prefer a round wheel.
 
fastone371
Are you using a Drivehub? Fanatec told my that the DD1 & DD2 were not compatible with PS which seems kind of strange because I thought the the Podium and DD1 were one and the same, the wheel itself being the difference. That's why I was considering the Podium F1, I really don't want an F1 wheel, I would rather have a close to round or D shaped wheel although I'm sure I could get used to it.
Click to expand...
The drive hub doesn’t work on PS5 as far as I know, there must be a new workaround, but I don’t know what it is yet.
 
FA_Hayes
I have the Podium F1 and purchased the Porsche wheel. The F1 wheel is on the shelf for back up.

I used it for a little bit but prefer a round wheel.
Click to expand...
That will work with PS5?? A DD1 is the same as the Podium, correct? The Podium F1 is a DD1 with a fancy F1 wheel, correct??
 
fastone371
That will work with PS5?? A DD1 is the same as the Podium, correct? The Podium F1 is a DD1 with a fancy F1 wheel, correct??
Click to expand...
No, they are different (slightly). The Podium has the chip in the base to allow it to be PlayStation compatible whereas the DD1 does not. The DD1 is PC and XBox compatible. The compatibility for the XBox is in the rim so if you attach an XBox compatible rim to a Podium base you then have an PC+XBox+Playstation compatible set up.

fanatec.com

Podium Racing Wheel F1®

The first ever direct drive system for PlayStation®4. Fanatec® Direct Drive has no equal. It is quite simply the most realistic force feedback system on a console. Compatible with all PS4™ and PS5™ systems.
fanatec.com fanatec.com
Pigems
The drive hub doesn’t work on PS5 as far as I know, there must be a new workaround, but I don’t know what it is yet.
Click to expand...
From what I've read there's a Hori pad that works to connect Drivehub to PS5. You just can't use a PlayStation controller.
 
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FPV MIC
No, they are different (slightly). The Podium has the chip in the base to allow it to be PlayStation compatible whereas the DD1 does not. The DD1 is PC and XBox compatible. The compatibility for the XBox is in the rim so if you attach an XBox compatible rim to a Podium base you then have an PC+XBox+Playstation compatible set up.

fanatec.com

Podium Racing Wheel F1®

The first ever direct drive system for PlayStation®4. Fanatec® Direct Drive has no equal. It is quite simply the most realistic force feedback system on a console. Compatible with all PS4™ and PS5™ systems.
fanatec.com fanatec.com

From what I've read there's a Hori pad that works to connect Drivehub to PS5. You just can't use a PlayStation controller.
Click to expand...
I heard about that too, but I also heard it only works for 20 minutes at a time, and then disconnects mid whatever you’re doing.
 
Pigems
I heard about that too, but I also heard it only works for 20 minutes at a time, and then disconnects mid whatever you’re doing.
Click to expand...
I know that happens with the PlayStation controller but the Hori used to keep going. Maybe Sony cottoned on to it? Wouldn't surprise me.

Edit: I just remembered that none of the Fanatec DD (DD1 or DD2) wheel bases are supported by Drivehub

GIMX still seems to work at least.
 
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fastone371
That will work with PS5?? A DD1 is the same as the Podium, correct? The Podium F1 is a DD1 with a fancy F1 wheel, correct??
Click to expand...
Yep, yep, and yep.

What makes hardware PS compatible is a security chip. The Podium F1 is just a DD1 with the chip to work with a Playstation and it's a different color. The wheel doesn't make a difference. I can use my setup on consoles or PC just by switching modes.
 
Pigems
I heard about that too, but I also heard it only works for 20 minutes at a time, and then disconnects mid whatever you’re doing.
Click to expand...
I am unsure whether the PS5+DriveHub combination behaves differently with the DD1/2 as opposed to the other Fanatec wheel bases, but I use a Fanatec CSL Elite (with no PS support as that model was never available in my region) and use it with my PS5 by connecting with a DriveHub+Hori controller. Unlike the PS4, the PS5 will only connect to a DualShock 4 by Bluetooth, so even by authenticating the DriveHub setup by physically connecting a DS4 the setup only works temporarily while the DS4 is on before it eventually times out as the DS4 fails to connect to anything via Bluetooth (and isn’t being recognized as being connected physically to the PS5), which is usually around 3-5min. On the other hand, the wired Hori controller can only be connected by USB and as Sony has committed to allowing PS4 peripherals to work with the PS5 when playing PS4 games, the PS5 will indeed recognize a physically connected Hori pad continuously without issue. At least this is my understanding of how this works.
 

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