Slash's Mopar Van: End of the Road

[Bopop4]

Not sure, I was pretty consisitant with my reactions the 3 times I've run it. All of them were in the .67-.69 range. I know I an do better and still not jump it. Could also have been the fact they were having problems with the timing system all last season as well.

I did take the back seats out, the 11.3 time was after I took them out. Doing all that I listed only took .15-almost .2 off.

Are you going to cut the cats off?
The times are so close, I'll have to come back down there sometime so we can race.

 

[Slash]

Are you going to cut the cats off?
The times are so close, I'll have to come back down there sometime so we can race.

Nah I'm not gonna do much with the exhaust. It's a 99 so it would be illegal and not pass emissions. Only thing I'm probably going to do is chop off about a foot before the muffler, clamp that back on and then run dual tips out the back.

 

[Slash]

Is that a cam I hear?



Nah, just a msifire. Think the plug wires or wire on cylinder 2 is going bad. It's been stalling out and running like crap. I played around with the wire and now it's running like a top. Hmm. Shoddy connection I'm thinking.

Also the sliding door lower wheel finally busted. That'll be about $40 to fix. Worth it? Maybe down the road.

 

[Slash]

Update time. What is going on??

Well the stalling has ceased. I am starting to think I may have gotten a bad batch of gas. Hard warm starts are still there but running rough and stalling has quit after one final spell. Hopefully I'm not speaking too soon. Also today I turned 190,000! Very very due for an oil change...

Today I did some budget body repair. The rust under the rear license plate was really starting to bug. Not that it was horrible but the paint was gone and even with plasti dip over it it still looked pretty bad. So I said screw it and fixed it. I spent $35 on supplies to do this with enough left over to do a hell of a lot more spots and I was generous with what I used. Normal when I comes to rust repair I prefer to replace the metal but as I am on a budget and the pitting wash too severe, I opted for the bondo route. I got a small $7 can of bondo, a sheet kit of 80 and 180 grit sand paper, putty knives and some $1.50 bottle of hardener (never knew the bondo came with hardener!).

So I cut the plasti dip off and sanded it all down to bare metal with the 80 grit. Once I got that done I mixed up some body filler and laid it on, waited for it today and sanded it down with 80. Filled in the air pockets and sanded that down and the entire area with 180. I'll admit I should have spent more time and got a finer grit but 180 was enough that when painted or dipped you wouldn't really noticed unless you were looking for it.


Once smooth I taped it off and redipped over it.

Before/after. Not perfect but much better.

Also got the fender stripes on. Next thig is a stenciled "DODGE" on the quarters hehe. Initially I was just go black it out and leave it but its always revolving. Also added more stickers.

 

[Slash]

It's stalling again, but I think I may have found the source. Low ATF! Gonna add some more and see what happens. It seems to only be stalling at low speeds/stopping/slowing down. I'm thinking the difference in fluid on the pressure plates is what's causing it.

 

[Gerarghini]

Have to say, that van is looking pretty on-point 👍

 

[Slash]

Have to say, that van is looking pretty on-point 👍

Thanks! Can't wait until I get those dual tips on, the Dodge lettering and the trailing arm painted


Well I put some ATF in it, seems to be shifting smoother now! But the stalling was still there and it was getting pretty bad today. So I got it hom, pulled all the plugs off the terminal to see some really nasty rusty gunky gooey stuff all over the coil terminals. Wiped it all off and amazing it hasn't stalled yet (hard starts seem to be a tad easier too). But it's not 100% fixed, seems to run better but not perfect. I still think there's some goo in the plug wire ends causing bad connections. But I'm going to play around with it a bit more and see what changes. Hopefully that will resolve it.

 

[Harry6784]

Thanks! Can't wait until I get those dual tips on, the Dodge lettering and the trailing arm painted

Sure you don't want side pipes?

 

[Slash]

Sure you don't want side pipes?

Thought about it But nah, right out the back would be easier and look better.

 

[Slash]

Well, its reached the end of the road. The root cause of the stalling is a bad torque converter. E pan was pulled and the filter was full of metal pieces and excessive clutch material. Its anyone's guess how long it'll last. Its gonna cost about $1400 for a new one. Its time to start searching for a new ride.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Well, its reached the end of the road. The root cause of the stalling is a bad torque converter. E pan was pulled and the filter was full of metal pieces and excessive clutch material. Its anyone's guess how long it'll last. Its gonna cost about $1400 for a new one. Its time to start searching for a new ride.

You and I discussed before (don't remember where) once you started drag racing that at the strip, we knew it would speed up the process of this thing breaking. As you said, you had another vehicle lined up in case it broke.


EDIT: Found the conversation in this thread in March 2015.

You really think it is a great idea to beat up your daily driver van at the drag strip? You just barely got this van on the road after struggling financially for so long. Not to sound like a downer, just thought I would give some sound advice to prevent hard times again in case you break something at the drag strip.

To be honest before hand I would have agreed but if something happens I have at least 4 backup plans. I'm not too overly concerned now.

 

[Slash]

I had one at the time!

To be fair,it was going before I started driving it. Its my fault anyways, so no excuses!

 

[Sage Ages]

Does that mean it's 2.3 Mustang time?

 

[titleguy1]

Slash, obviously a low-mileage Honda Civic is the best fit for you.

Jokes aside, Cologne V6 in the 1975-1978 Mustang.

 

[Slash]

I'm considering everyting right now.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

A Mustang is not going to be good for winter so honestly I would either get your dads truck going, or get yourself a truck for now. (4x4 would be great). Start saving some money during the winter. Then next spring start looking for a Mustang.

 

[Slash]

There's no way I'd have the cash for a mustang right now. More likely itll be some cheap beater to make it through winter.

 

[Anathema]

I'd suggest a Subaru, if only for winter.

 

[Dagger311]

81 K10, so I can drool over it.

 

[Slash]

I'd suggest a Subaru, if only for winter.

Way out of budget. I'm no sure what the game plan is at this point. Most likely it'll be a truck.

 

[SVX]

Way out of budget. I'm no sure what the game plan is at this point. Most likely it'll be a truck.

You could probably get a very cheap first generation Legacy.

 

[Slash]

You could probably get a very cheap first generation Legacy.

Think so? I wouldn't be against it.

 

[SVX]

Think so? I wouldn't be against it.

Non turbo first gen wagon? Not sure how it is in the US but I remember @Zyla's old one was fairly cheap.

 

[Legro]

As annoying it is to admit it, a 1990s Corolla is likely the best option. One of the cheapest things out there, still relatively easy to find, and will go on forever. Basically everything necessary, nothing more, but nothing less either.

 

[High-Test]

Volvo 240?

 

[Sage Ages]

Way out of budget.

The hell is the budget then?

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

I'd suggest a Subaru, if only for winter.

He said cheap. Good luck finding a cheap RELIABLE Subaru. Trust me I am on my 3rd Subaru and a cheap RELIABLE Subaru does not exist. And they absolutely SUCK to work on. This Subaru will me my 3rd and my last Subaru I ever own.

Non turbo first gen wagon? Not sure how it is in the US but I remember @Zyla's old one was fairly cheap.

That is about the only cheap Subaru you will find. But again, huge risk trying to find a RELIABLE Subaru. I know from experience if the trans goes, you are looking at a couple grand easy, more if it is a manual. Again, I really would not recommend a Subaru any more. Seriously, good luck changing the spark plugs on a Subaru.

I am thinking more along the lines of some Ford Pickup. Find one that at least runs decent with some rust and dents and call it good for now.

The hell is the budget then?

I am guessing his budget is under $1,000.

 

[Slash]

He said cheap. Good luck finding a cheap RELIABLE Subaru. Trust me I am on my 3rd Subaru and a cheap RELIABLE Subaru does not exist. And they absolutely SUCK to work on. This Subaru will me my 3rd and my last Subaru I ever own.


That is about the only cheap Subaru you will find. But again, huge risk trying to find a RELIABLE Subaru. I know from experience if the trans goes, you are looking at a couple grand easy, more if it is a manual. Again, I really would not recommend a Subaru any more. Seriously, good luck changing the spark plugs on a Subaru.

I am thinking more along the lines of some Ford Pickup. Find one that at least runs decent with some rust and dents and call it good for now.


I am guessing his budget is under $1,000.

You'd be right on the budget, and I'm quite in debt and working part time paying all the bills, paying that off and still trying keep gas in a van that's getting 10mpg due to the bad trans is pretty difficult. My paychecks are gone before I see them so saving the money is getting increasinly difficult. I'm working on $550/2 weeks and at least $250 is gone out of each prior to me seeing it. The rest goes into gas and food. At the end of two weeks I'm usually looking for pennies to go to work.


I was looking at a few different Rangers for cheap. But some paperwork issues came up and I three that out the door. My options are extremely limited.

 

[Sage Ages]

He said cheap. Good luck finding a cheap RELIABLE Subaru.

I am guessing his budget is under $1,000.

That makes more sense.

 

[Anathema]

I'll rescind my previous suggestion, as it was made without knowledge of the situation you're in.