Slash's Mopar Van: End of the Road

  • Thread starter Slash
  • 516 comments
  • 27,602 views

Currently considering my next car upgrade; which should I go for?

  • 1979-1986 Mustang; 2.3L I4

    Votes: 11 15.9%
  • 1975-1978 Mustang; 2.3L I4 OR 2.8L Cologne V6

    Votes: 22 31.9%
  • 1985-2000 Ford Ranger; 2.3L I4

    Votes: 16 23.2%
  • 1978-1986 Ford Pickup; 4.9L I6

    Votes: 20 29.0%

  • Total voters
    69
He said cheap. Good luck finding a cheap RELIABLE Subaru. Trust me I am on my 3rd Subaru and a cheap RELIABLE Subaru does not exist. And they absolutely SUCK to work on. This Subaru will me my 3rd and my last Subaru I ever own.


That is about the only cheap Subaru you will find. But again, huge risk trying to find a RELIABLE Subaru. I know from experience if the trans goes, you are looking at a couple grand easy, more if it is a manual. Again, I really would not recommend a Subaru any more. Seriously, good luck changing the spark plugs on a Subaru. :mad:

I am thinking more along the lines of some Ford Pickup. Find one that at least runs decent with some rust and dents and call it good for now.

Dude, they're not that bad. Non turbo Subarus are perfectly reliable - same with turbocharged variants if they've been applied the necessary care.

Spark plugs aren't even that bad if you experiment a bit. Unbolt the engine mount and jack the engine up and it becomes a whole lot easier.
 
SVX
Spark plugs aren't even that bad if you experiment a bit. Unbolt the engine mount and jack the engine up and it becomes a whole lot easier.
Don't you just have to unbolt/remove a few parts up top on an NA boxer?
 
Its not a risk I'm willing to take a gamble on, to be honest. I'm in a bind and can't be playing Russian roulette with another vehicle, at least right now.
 
SVX
Dude, they're not that bad. Non turbo Subarus are perfectly reliable - same with turbocharged variants if they've been applied the necessary care.

Spark plugs aren't even that bad if you experiment a bit. Unbolt the engine mount and jack the engine up and it becomes a whole lot easier.

I agree, my '02 Impreza OBS was dead nuts reliable. I did the head gaskets at about 215k miles but that is the only non general maintenance issue I had with the car and I think it is expected to have to put some money in a car when it has over 200K miles. If I could've found another OBS in good shape near me that would be in my driveway now instead of my Jeep.

That being said I don't think Slash is going to find a Subaru in good shape for less than $1000 so it is a moot point.
 
Notchback Fox-body. RWD is perfectly manageable during winter as long as you have some common sense and plan ahead.
 
Its not a risk I'm willing to take a gamble on, to be honest. I'm in a bind and can't be playing Russian roulette with another vehicle, at least right now.

Wise.
 
I'm not against a RWD in the snow. Its jut finding something. I'm trying to keep this on the road best I can.
 
SVX
Dude, they're not that bad. Non turbo Subarus are perfectly reliable - same with turbocharged variants if they've been applied the necessary care.

Spark plugs aren't even that bad if you experiment a bit. Unbolt the engine mount and jack the engine up and it becomes a whole lot easier.
You speak to me as if I have not ever owned or worked on a Subaru. I have owned 3 Subarus.
1. NA 05 Subaru RS 2.5 engine non turbo
2. 04 WRX 5 speed 2.0 engine turbo
3. 05 WRX Automatic 2.0 engine turbo
I do agree the non turbos are more reliable but......

There is absolutely NOTHING easy about changing the plugs on a Subaru. Nothing. When the first thing you say is "Unbolt the engine mount and jack up the engine" That's an instant indication of how something that is normally very easy on other cars (usually takes 10 minutes) will take hours on a Subaru. And there is much more to it than just unbolting the motor mounts. Don't forget the pitch stop mount located UNDER the intercooler on top of the engine. Plus battery needs to be removed, coil packs, and MUCH more especially if it is a turbo. I have had these cars to at least 6 different shops including a Subaru dealership and they are not easy to work on. I wont even bore you with the details but one does not just simply change spark plugs on a Subaru. :lol:

That's a very big and dangerous IF.
Yes as I said finding a Subaru that has not been abused, and has had the proper maintenance, for under $1,000 is borderline impossible.
Don't you just have to unbolt/remove a few parts up top on an NA boxer?
Hell no. Motor mounts need to be removed, coil packs removed, Battery, pitch stop mount, intercooler if it is has a turbo and much more. And that is just to get to the plugs. Re inserting the plug is a nightmare since the plugs are horizontal in the engine compartment facing the tires on each side of the car. Yes its a boxer so 2 plugs face the passenger tire, 2 plugs face the driver tire. On top of that the valve covers are only about 2 inches from the wheel well. Try to visualize putting a spark plug into the hole of a valve cover counter sunk into the engine horizontal to the wheels. Seriously. Good luck.

Its not a risk I'm willing to take a gamble on, to be honest. I'm in a bind and can't be playing Russian roulette with another vehicle, at least right now.
Very smart decision. Avoid Subaru especially if you are on a budget.

I agree, my '02 Impreza OBS was dead nuts reliable. I did the head gaskets at about 215k miles but that is the only non general maintenance issue I had with the car and I think it is expected to have to put some money in a car when it has over 200K miles. If I could've found another OBS in good shape near me that would be in my driveway now instead of my Jeep.

That being said I don't think Slash is going to find a Subaru in good shape for less than $1000 so it is a moot point.
Exactly its dang near impossible especially up north to find a reliable, non abused, Subaru for $1,000 that has been properly maintained. If the trans goes, its a minimum of $2,000-$3,000 since the trans and transfer case are combined. If its a manual, even more expensive.
Yes indeed.

Sorry for the rant, bottom line, do not get a Subaru on a $1,000 budget. Not worth the gamble.

Looking forward to seeing what @Slash picks up.
 
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Hell no. Motor mounts need to be removed, coil packs removed, Battery, pitch stop mount, intercooler if it is has a turbo and much more. And that is just to get to the plugs. Re inserting the plug is a nightmare since the plugs are horizontal in the engine compartment facing the tires on each side of the car. Yes its a boxer so 2 plugs face the passenger tire, 2 plugs face the driver tire. On top of that the valve covers are only about 2 inches from the wheel well. Try to visualize putting a spark plug into the hole of a valve cover counter sunk into the engine horizontal to the wheels. Seriously. Good luck.
Obviously, stuff like the battery and coil packs have to go (okay, way more than "a few things"), but I've never heard or seen anything about touching the motor mounts. :confused:

And I did say naturally aspirated motors. I don't even want to imagine what you have to do on the turbo motors. :scared:
 
That's a very big and dangerous IF.

If you take the time to actually make sure it's of a good standard it's hardly dangerous.

You speak to me as if I have not ever owned or worked on a Subaru. I have owned 3 Subarus.
1. NA 05 Subaru RS 2.5 engine non turbo
2. 04 WRX 5 speed 2.0 engine turbo
3. 05 WRX Automatic 2.0 engine turbo

You speak to me as if I have never seen or worked on a Subaru.

My dad owns just about seven times as many Subarus as you have ever owned, stretching from non turbo, to turbo, to manual and automatic. I myself have worked on at least ten of them.

I do agree the non turbos are more reliable but......

Both are perfectly reliable. Poor maintenance? Most engines will fall through with exception to truly bulletproof engines. Turbocharged variants are not as reliable, sure, but this should come as no surprise as they're performance engines at the end of the day. Good maintenance will give a good experience for the owner. This is common sense.

There is absolutely NOTHING easy about changing the plugs on a Subaru. Nothing. When the first thing you say is "Unbolt the engine mount and jack up the engine" That's an instant indication of how something that is normally very easy on other cars (usually takes 10 minutes) will take hours on a Subaru. And there is much more to it than just unbolting the motor mounts. Don't forget the pitch stop mount located UNDER the intercooler on top of the engine. Plus battery needs to be removed, coil packs, and MUCH more especially if it is a turbo. I have had these cars to at least 6 different shops including a Subaru dealership and they are not easy to work on. I wont even bore you with the details but one does not just simply change spark plugs on a Subaru. :lol:

They're not easy, but they are not 'devil's work' as you make them out to be. My dad can do them in an hour, and probably even less after discovering that unbolting the engine mount and jacking up the engine makes the plugs much more accessible. Seeing Slash is a mechanic, I'm sure he would be fine as well. If we go by your logic, when we were working on one and doing compression tests to discover cylinder problems, installing and removing the sparkplugs just once would have taken all day, when in fact we did so multiple times to troubleshoot.

Yes as I said finding a Subaru that has not been abused, and has had the proper maintenance, for under $1,000 is borderline impossible.

@Zyla managed to find a mechanically well one for $500, I'm sure if he would have looked around finding another first generation nonturbo Legacy would have occurred.

Hell no. Motor mounts need to be removed, coil packs removed, Battery, pitch stop mount, intercooler if it is has a turbo and much more. And that is just to get to the plugs. Re inserting the plug is a nightmare since the plugs are horizontal in the engine compartment facing the tires on each side of the car. Yes its a boxer so 2 plugs face the passenger tire, 2 plugs face the driver tire. On top of that the valve covers are only about 2 inches from the wheel well. Try to visualize putting a spark plug into the hole of a valve cover counter sunk into the engine horizontal to the wheels. Seriously. Good luck.

Never have I once seen, or had to myself remove the wheels. :odd:


Exactly its dang near impossible especially up north to find a reliable, non abused, Subaru for $1,000 that has been properly maintained. If the trans goes, its a minimum of $2,000-$3,000 since the trans and transfer case are combined. If its a manual, even more expensive.

While the five speed is weak for something like a performance car, for normal application it's fine. Four speeds are another story, with these being an ancient design and are known to be junk. Stay away from autos and you'd be fine.


Also, someone mentioned Zylas old Legacy, I don't recall that car exactly as the epitome of reliability.

I don't recall @Zyla's Legacy developing any problems, but what I do recall was the transmission was already faulty when he bought it.

Obviously, stuff like the battery and coil packs have to go (okay, way more than "a few things"), but I've never heard or seen anything about touching the motor mounts. :confused:

And I did say naturally aspirated motors. I don't even want to imagine what you have to do on the turbo motors. :scared:

I only mentioned the engine mounts after my dad discovered it was easier to simply unbolt them and jack the engine up.

If my dad can do it, I'm sure someone as handy as Slash could.
 
SVX
@Zyla managed to find a mechanically well one for $500, I'm sure if he would have looked around finding another first generation nonturbo Legacy would have occurred.

I don't recall @Zyla's Legacy developing any problems, but what I do recall was the transmission was already faulty when he bought it.

Mechanically well and toast trans do not compute.

That car was a $500 Subaru and not exactly the brightest idea.
 
Also, someone mentioned Zylas old Legacy, I don't recall that car exactly as the epitome of reliability.

SVX
I don't recall @Zyla's Legacy developing any problems, but what I do recall was the transmission was already faulty when he bought it.

Mechanically well and toast trans do not compute.

That car was a $500 Subaru and not exactly the brightest idea.
Exactly case and point...

Moving on. Wont be discussing Subaru's any more in this thread. It is already agreed finding a budget Subaru for under $1,000 is not an option for him. ;)
 
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Bud at work wants to sell me his 98 Econoline 4.6L for $800. Nothing really wrong with it...
 
Mechanically well and toast trans do not compute.

That car was a $500 Subaru and not exactly the brightest idea.

So he bought a car that had a broken transmission (and would have been discovered if driven on a highway)... makes it unreliable. :odd:
 
Honestly I'd rather put money into the van before dealing with a Subie that's from around here. You really have to watch what you buy.
 
If you have a car and it's a good car overall but something has gone wrong, I always say fix the one thing instead of buying a potential money pit. If you have changed a load of stuff over the years and you trust the car, but the trans is toast, swap the trans instead of buying a beater with potentially the same or more amounts of headaches. If you have a car you know you have ran into the ground and always neglected and never maintained, move on to something else.

SVX
So he bought a car that had a broken transmission (and would have been discovered if driven on a highway)... makes it unreliable. :odd:

My point is what kinda Subaru you get for $500 is a broken turd :P I won't argue with you, you're a cool dood, but your example didn't do your argument a favor :)
 
Bud at work wants to sell me his 98 Econoline 4.6L for $800. Nothing really wrong with it...
Going from little van to big van would not be too bad at all as long as it has some good tires so you can get around in the winter snow. You could even put some weight in the back for added traction. I am guessing he will allow you to make payments on it?
 
You really have to watch what you buy.

Quoting this for truth; I ended up paying about $700 more on top of what I paid for the 240 ($2000) in order to fix the framerail rust. Also learned a valuable lesson from that - always check every spot on a car for any problems whatsoever.

If you're thinking about this van, take a look at it from every angle you can, check for anything that might be an issue (although, for $800, that could be a number of hidden things) and see what tires it has on it, for winter reasons.
 
It need tires no doubt, but that wouldbe the biggest investment. He said he'd take $800 for me, anyone else would be more.
 
Normally I would suggest a 2nd or 3rd generation Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable in this situation, but most of them in upstate New York are probably rusted halfway to hell in your price range. That being said, if you happen to find one that is relatively rust-free, seriously consider a purchase. With them being front-wheel drive, light snow travel shouldn't be an issue, but heavier amounts may cause problems due to the low ride height.
 
There's one about 2 miles from my house for sale I was thinking about stopping and looking at, but I'd really like a truck. But no ruling out anything.
 
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