Suggestion about the Livery Editor Competitions

tbh I basically included every entry that had it‘s photo taken in a snowy location and fit the rest of the rules :lol:

If there is a way to alter the filters and settings to make that scape work a bit better than with the values @BLiTZ supplied feel free to use/share them, I think my entries also always had their brightness boosted up
 
With masking the background and maximize brightness / min contrast the results look like this:

full

full

Pro: good and neutral results, fast process, every scape can be used
Con: missing shadow, some details visible through the windshield / glass



Just tried to shoot some pix without background masking at different scapes / scenes (and without editing camera settings)


Shiretoko, Competition Scape

full


Shiretoko, Mountain Road
full


Desert, USA
full
 
I don't necessarily have a ton of suggestions for the type of photo or scape that should be used, but as a professional photographer, I would like to offer some insight into the settings used and how they are the same/vary from a real life camera.

CAMERA SETTINGS:


The big one is aperture. For a camera, this is, simply put, how much light you are letting into the lens. The lower the f-stop number, the more light you are letting in. If you've ever messed with a pinhole camera, then you know that putting a tiny hole in a black box will create an upside down reflection of the light outside (an image) on the opposite wall of the box from where the hole is. A smaller hole produces a sharper image, while a larger hole produces a fuzzier one.
A "faster" aperture (lower f-stop, like f/2.8) is like having a HUGE hole in the box, while a "slower" aperture (bigger f-stop, like f/11-22) is like having a tiny hole.

The faster aperture you have, the smaller "depth of field" -or total plane that is in focus- is smaller, as the light is being bent in front of and behind that plane. This is great for say, an artistic shot, or when you want to draw the focus of a shot to a certain area. If you're having trouble visualizing this, try this:
Take a piece of paper and hold it in front of your face with the flat side (not edge) facing you. Move it back and forth.
This represents the "depth of field" of an f/2.8 aperture at a standard distance of around 10ft/3m. Moving the paper back and forth is similar to choosing the focus point. Take a toy car, and line it up alongside the paper, wherever the paper is next to the car, that tiny sliver of the car would be in focus, with the area in front and behind it gradually being less focused and therefore, less sharp.

Now imagine doing the same with a set of books around 4 feet deep. That difference in "total focused area" (Depth of field) is the same difference between an f/2.8 Aperture and around f/22 at 10ft/3m.

For taking a presentation shot, using an aperture of 2.8 does no service to the image. The game simulates light entering the lens, and just like in real life, having a higher aperture leads to having a fuzzier overall image, because only a small portion (around the headlight area) is truly in focus. This is what creates the "Light bleed" you see when you take an image with the settings provided.

In real life, sometimes having a faster or slower aperture is needed based on the amount of light in the scene you are shooting. If you are letting less light (slower aperture) into the camera, then the image will be darker. In-game, this is a non-issue, as the game will almost not allow you to take a dark photo. (More on this later)

The second setting of importance is shutter speed. For presentation shots, this is not important at all unless you want to darken the photo. I only mention it to explain why aperture is called "faster" and "slower:"
The more light you let into the camera (aperture) the less time (shutter speed) you need to take a photo in order to take a properly-exposed image, and vice versa. Shutter speed is counted in fractions of a second, and the higher the fraction, the less time the shutter is open. When you get high enough, the image becomes noticeably darker because there is not enough light hitting the camera. Once again, this doesn't matter for presentation shots, but for racing shots, shutter speed is the tradeoff between super sharp photo looking like nothing is moving versus action photo with tons of blur. In really life, the shutter speed you use is also dependent on how the camera is being held/supported. For a person holding a camera shooting a moving object or person, you wouldn't want any speeds much slower than 1/125 or 1/240, otherwise you will have a blurry mess. A presentation shot is more akin to shooting on a tripod, where the shutter speed doesn't matter.

EV or Exposure Value is the same as it would be on a real camera, which is just a basic means of making the image brighter or darker. Each "value" of 1.0 is called a stop of light. On a real camera, f/4.0+1.0EV is roughly equivalent to f/2.8+0.0EV. Increasing this value on a real camera or in photo processing software introduces noise into the image.

One setting NOT present in the game, and this is the reason why the game doesn't really let you take a dark photo without using filters, is ISO, which is the camera's sensitivity to light. This is a setting that can be changed on most cameras, which determines how much light the camera "looks for" in an image. In the days of film, ISO was actually different rolls for different sensitivities. This is the setting you would change in order to take a Milky Way photo in the middle of the night, or to take photos at a concert in low light. Increasing this setting introduces more noise or grain into the image, and makes colors "pop" less.
For all intents and purposes in GT:S, ISO is effectively set to "AUTO" which means no matter how dark you try to make the image, the ISO is adjusted up to compensate. Since the game is rendering the image, there is no noice generated from this process, unless you add grain in the filters.

I explained focus before, but essentially setting your focus point is like moving the paper (or books) back and forth and setting the "center" of the depth of field. This should still be on the lights or towards the middle of the car.
Having this set correctly and having a slower aperture (f/11-22) means the car will be in perfect focus, allowing all decals/details/etc, to remain reasonably visible even on a smaller image.


EFFECTS


Here's the thing: If you are shooting correctly, there should be minimal use of effects in order to achieve the desired result on any scene in the game. This means you should be able to use a scene with more reflective items and still get a similar result as my photos (attached below)

White Balance and Color correction: Simply put, these are how cold(blue)/warm(yellow) the image is and now skewed the image is in green or pink. If the image has a blue tint to it, move the slider to the warmer side, and vice versa. You are basically chaining the colors to be more blue/yellow or green/pink on these sliders. You want the white balance slider to be as close to our white as possible.

EV is the same as the camera setting above.

Chromatic Aberration: This does nothing except separate the color channels and creates a less-sharp image. In a real camera, this affect is due to the way that different colored light travels and is magnified either by the photographer moving during a shot or imperfections in the lens. In-Game, this serves no purpose other than to distort the final image.

Background Mask: (Screen Effect 1(
This is probably the most important part of the effects panel. If you are filtering out the background, theoretically you should be able to boost the brightness all the way and desaturate the scene. This would make the background completely white. I have not experimented with this enough but I did play with this setting for my entry in this contest. Making the background darker (50) is just introducing more shadows into the photo and adding to the "fuzzy" effect.

EDIT: Looking at the photos above in @BLiTZ's post, doesn't turning the contrast up on the background mask or the car mask bring back the shadows? I feel like that's what I did.

Car Effects:
Honestly, aside from maybe brightening up the car or slightly correcting the colors, nothing should really need to be adjusted here, and certainly not to the extremes that are being used currently. Using the overblown saturation and corrections in the suggested settings change the color/vibrance of the design too much. This caused my "highlighter yellow" to turn bright green, as can be seen in the below images.

Zoom isn't quite as important as long as the car fills the frame, especially if the background is completely masked out.

Hopefully this helps y'all figure out some details about how to create a standard scene.
 
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Lots of valid points being raised.

As I've already explained, the settings were never intended for such 'heavy' use. When I first created them (for my own personal use) my aim was for a consistent ‘studio’ type shot that I could easily replicate in order to catalogue my liveries as it's impossible to get the same angles each time when screenshot-ing the Livery Editor.

After much trial and error with simply masking backgrounds as @dizco has shown above I wasn't happy with the results. Whilst it's incredibly easy to do this in any scape it results in an un-realistic shot without shadows and with reflections on the car and a background that’s too white.

After trying various ‘plain’ Scapes I settled on Shiretoko as it has the following benefits:

- Plain background (Nothing shows through the windows plus you don't get any distracting reflections of the scenery on the car)
- Slightly elevated camera position (This gives a better ¾ view of the car)
- Neutral lighting (No extreme shadows or reflections that hide the livery)

The downside is its shot in low light and has a strong blue tint, hence the extreme settings required to correct it. Some of the settings, like Chromatic Aboration and F Stop are personal choices - I think it adds a touch of realism to the shot and stops it looking too 'perfect'. I'd rather it looks like a photograph than a render.

The settings were performed on a HDR TV so may look a tad bright on SDR but I’ve always been happy with how the shots look on my computer.

After the first Livery Editor Contest where I'd submitted Shiretoko shots for my winning entry @syntex123 asked that I shared the settings as he liked the way they looked. I went back in to the shot and noted all the settings I'd used and gave them as the 'recommended settings'. At no point did I or Syntex suggest that they were mandatory, more that they should be treated as a 'beginners guide' to achieving the same results. (It's clear when people don't follow them as the results often look worse than no settings at all).

I think this thread is going round in circles with three main groups of people emerging:

1. Those who are happy with the current system or accept it's compromises in lieu of anything better.
2. Those who don't like the 'level playing field' approach and believe the only way they can win is if they tilt the board in their favour.
3. Those who are happy to spend an hour or two making a livery but can't be bothered to spend a few mins setting up a scape.

In answer to these:

1. I agree it's not perfect, I'm open to suggestions, but feel until we're given true 'studio' Scape I don’t see how we can get better results.
2. By sticking to a mandatory image it creates a level playing field, you're all in the same boat, by using the same settings if your livery doesn't look good compared to someone else’s, the issue isn't the settings, it's the livery!

I agree that the current approach doesn't suit every livery 100%. By limiting the shots I could argue that my Gulf 919 didn't win because people couldn't see all the detail I'd put into the 917k decals I'd made for the sides and that a better choice of scape could have made things more favourable. The truth is, it wasn't a particularly good livery, and sure it had detail but as an overall package it didn't have anything special and that's how these competitions are judged. No-one really cares if you've used chrome paint for a particular part of the design if the overall design is not very good*.

* I'll just clarify here that this is in the context of an open competition. If we were challenged to make a livery for a set 'client' (IE mandatory car and sponsor combo) then the use of special paints could be the difference between winning/losing.

In addition, the issue is that Special Paints rely on reflections and the surrounding environment to work effectively. Chrome will only ever reflect the background or nearby objects, so in a plain white studio, it's going to appear flat and boring. Likewise, without extreme lighting reflections you won't necessarily see the contrast between matt and gloss paints. This is why you're allowed bonus shots to showcase detail in the livery that can't be seen elsewhere. That could be a close-up shot of a detailed decal, an aerial shot showing off roof work or a shot that better shows different paint finishes. Either way you have freedom to do what you want with it, but keep in the back of your mind that the casual voter is going to judge you based on the main entry shot.

3. What more do you want? We've provided simple instructions how to replicate a known 'acceptable' shot, it takes a few minutes to setup and can be re-used for subsequent entries (Instructions on how to re-use a scape have been posted multiple times).

Sorry to rant, but we’re getting nowhere with this and so far I haven’t seen/heard a better solution to the issue. The way I see it, we could go back to making the mandatory 360deg GIFs (which I personally found took a lot more effort to make and showed off even less detail) or we could carry on with Scapes which has worked for the last 8 rounds without issue!

On a final lighter note and as a helpful hint: Turn off 'Key Lights' in Detailed Settings so you don't have DRL's and dash lights glaring away in your studio shots!
 
Lots of valid points being raised.

As I've already explained, the settings were never intended for such 'heavy' use. When I first created them (for my own personal use) my aim was for a consistent ‘studio’ type shot that I could easily replicate in order to catalogue my liveries as it's impossible to get the same angles each time when screenshot-ing the Livery Editor.

After much trial and error with simply masking backgrounds as @dizco has shown above I wasn't happy with the results. Whilst it's incredibly easy to do this in any scape it results in an un-realistic shot without shadows and with reflections on the car and a background that’s too white.

After trying various ‘plain’ Scapes I settled on Shiretoko as it has the following benefits:

- Plain background (Nothing shows through the windows plus you don't get any distracting reflections of the scenery on the car)
- Slightly elevated camera position (This gives a better ¾ view of the car)
- Neutral lighting (No extreme shadows or reflections that hide the livery)

The downside is its shot in low light and has a strong blue tint, hence the extreme settings required to correct it. Some of the settings, like Chromatic Aboration and F Stop are personal choices - I think it adds a touch of realism to the shot and stops it looking too 'perfect'. I'd rather it looks like a photograph than a render.

The settings were performed on a HDR TV so may look a tad bright on SDR but I’ve always been happy with how the shots look on my computer.

After the first Livery Editor Contest where I'd submitted Shiretoko shots for my winning entry @syntex123 asked that I shared the settings as he liked the way they looked. I went back in to the shot and noted all the settings I'd used and gave them as the 'recommended settings'. At no point did I or Syntex suggest that they were mandatory, more that they should be treated as a 'beginners guide' to achieving the same results. (It's clear when people don't follow them as the results often look worse than no settings at all).

I think this thread is going round in circles with three main groups of people emerging:

1. Those who are happy with the current system or accept it's compromises in lieu of anything better.
2. Those who don't like the 'level playing field' approach and believe the only way they can win is if they tilt the board in their favour.
3. Those who are happy to spend an hour or two making a livery but can't be bothered to spend a few mins setting up a scape.

In answer to these:

1. I agree it's not perfect, I'm open to suggestions, but feel until we're given true 'studio' Scape I don’t see how we can get better results.
2. By sticking to a mandatory image it creates a level playing field, you're all in the same boat, by using the same settings if your livery doesn't look good compared to someone else’s, the issue isn't the settings, it's the livery!

I agree that the current approach doesn't suit every livery 100%. By limiting the shots I could argue that my Gulf 919 didn't win because people couldn't see all the detail I'd put into the 917k decals I'd made for the sides and that a better choice of scape could have made things more favourable. The truth is, it wasn't a particularly good livery, and sure it had detail but as an overall package it didn't have anything special and that's how these competitions are judged. No-one really cares if you've used chrome paint for a particular part of the design if the overall design is not very good*.

* I'll just clarify here that this is in the context of an open competition. If we were challenged to make a livery for a set 'client' (IE mandatory car and sponsor combo) then the use of special paints could be the difference between winning/losing.

In addition, the issue is that Special Paints rely on reflections and the surrounding environment to work effectively. Chrome will only ever reflect the background or nearby objects, so in a plain white studio, it's going to appear flat and boring. Likewise, without extreme lighting reflections you won't necessarily see the contrast between matt and gloss paints. This is why you're allowed bonus shots to showcase detail in the livery that can't be seen elsewhere. That could be a close-up shot of a detailed decal, an aerial shot showing off roof work or a shot that better shows different paint finishes. Either way you have freedom to do what you want with it, but keep in the back of your mind that the casual voter is going to judge you based on the main entry shot.

3. What more do you want? We've provided simple instructions how to replicate a known 'acceptable' shot, it takes a few minutes to setup and can be re-used for subsequent entries (Instructions on how to re-use a scape have been posted multiple times).

Sorry to rant, but we’re getting nowhere with this and so far I haven’t seen/heard a better solution to the issue. The way I see it, we could go back to making the mandatory 360deg GIFs (which I personally found took a lot more effort to make and showed off even less detail) or we could carry on with Scapes which has worked for the last 8 rounds without issue!

On a final lighter note and as a helpful hint: Turn off 'Key Lights' in Detailed Settings so you don't have DRL's and dash lights glaring away in your studio shots!
category1 here. very happy with current format. not at all keen to change it.
 
I think this thread is going round in circles with three main groups of people emerging:

1. Those who are happy with the current system or accept it's compromises in lieu of anything better.
2. Those who don't like the 'level playing field' approach and believe the only way they can win is if they tilt the board in their favour.
3. Those who are happy to spend an hour or two making a livery but can't be bothered to spend a few mins setting up a scape

:rolleyes:

I'm happy with the current settings, but wish they were mandated. That said, the wording on options 2 & 3 is needlessly antagonistic.
 
I think what @BLiTZ said is how we’ll end this discussion for now - until we get a better studio scape this is how we’ll continue to have it done.

Unless @WallRunner here wants to play around in a similar scape and make the same result but in a better way showing off chrome/matte finishes, but like BLiTZ said, I don’t think that’s possible without having more unwanted reflections all over the car.

I’m a guy of habit, and quite happy with how things are now. I try to please everyone, but sometimes that’s impossible. I’m open for changes to the competitions, as long as it’s for the better.
I can’t please those of you who want wild changes — and sorry @dizco, but a 100% white scape with no shadows or anything and with reflection on the car and background showing through the windows is not an option. Like previously mentioned by BLiTZ it looks wildly unrealistic.

I hope one day to please everyone in these competitions. But as in real life — someone is bound to dislike what you do. We’ve had ten, TEN successful competitions. I think we did something right with BLiTZ‘s guideline (but not blueprint) on how to take the entry images, and @Nuschel01’s help with the poll format.
 
This is quite honestly what I hate about the internet. My post was written to be informative and help elevate the discussion around getting better results from the scapes mode, instead it is taken the totally wrong way. Oh well.

I took a half hour and had a go at using some different scenes, and found a few settings that seemed to work fairly well in multiple scenes, and with multiple types of paint/decals. I was able to get a similar result in almost any "empty" scene (that is where the only light source is natural) and wanted to share my findings. Bit of a bitter taste coming back to this thread and seeing people getting upset over what amounts to nothing.
I started with White sands 09, which is actually large enough to hold several cars and present multiple angles. This scene works well for special colors and matte decals, but "normal" colors do tend to have too strong of a reflection:


After playing around with that, I went over to White Sands 01, and found it suitable for almost any type of paint. The only downside to this scape is the angle, it's a little too low, but gave good results:

Matte:
*see below

"Normal":

Pearl(Heavy Decals):

Flakes:

Chrome:

White Sands 01
Zoom: ~100mm

f/32
EV+1.0
1/1 Shutter (doesn't matter)
Focused on A-pillar.
16:9 Landscape, High resolution
EDIT: See my post below for updated settings
Temperature: 5000K (Could go warmer)
Background Mask
Saturation 0
Brightness 500
Contrast 250
Highlights 0

NO Car Filters necessary. Optionally use a gradient mask (Mask 2) or Lift the blacks to brighten up the bottom of the car, but I felt it wasn't needed.
So, if this helps anyone produce nicer, sharper, easier to get results, then great. At this point, I couldn't care any less.

*Yes, I am aware of the irony of racing fuel on an electric vehicle. I didn't even realize it was electric until I was done with the livery.

-Chris
 
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This is quite honestly what I hate about the internet. My post was written to be informative and help elevate the discussion around getting better results from the scapes mode, instead it is taken the totally wrong way. Oh well.

I took a half hour and had a go at using some different scenes, and found a few settings that seemed to work fairly well in multiple scenes, and with multiple types of paint/decals. I was able to get a similar result in almost any "empty" scene (that is where the only light source is natural) and wanted to share my findings. Bit of a bitter taste coming back to this thread and seeing people getting upset over what amounts to nothing.
I started with White sands 09, which is actually large enough to hold several cars and present multiple angles. This scene works well for special colors and matte decals, but "normal" colors do tend to have too strong of a reflection:


After playing around with that, I went over to White Sands 01, and found it suitable for almost any type of paint. The only downside to this scape is the angle, it's a little too low, but gave good results:

Matte:
*see below

"Normal":

Pearl(Heavy Decals):

Flakes:

Chrome:

White Sands 01
Zoom: ~100mm

f/32
EV+1.0
1/1 Shutter (doesn't matter)
Focused on A-pillar.
16:9 Landscape, High resolution

Temperature: 5000K (Could go warmer)
Background Mask
Saturation 0
Brightness 500
Contrast 250
Highlights 0

NO Car Filters necessary. Optionally use a gradient mask (Mask 2) or Lift the blacks to brighten up the bottom of the car, but I felt it wasn't needed.
So, if this helps anyone produce nicer, sharper, easier to get results, then great. At this point, I couldn't care any less.

*Yes, I am aware of the irony of racing fuel on an electric vehicle. I didn't even realize it was electric until I was done with the livery.

-Chris

Chris,

I’m sorry if my post demotivated you. That was not at all my intention. I appreciated the long post and explaination you had, but since I (and many others) don’t know cameras to that extent I didn’t have anything to say. I know what results I want, I just don’t know what to do so I play around at random. I’m sure that’s what most people do too.

This is the reason why I asked if you could do what you did - provide settings etc. I’m thankful for that.
With your permission I will update the next competition with these settings.

Changes will be made. Be sure on that. Don’t be bitter, I appreciate your work and effort. You will be rewarded (in a sense that your efforts will be put into use by all). :)

EDIT: Tested out your settings. I think they turned out too dark. I did it exactly how you wrote it though. One on both scape. Any pointers?


 
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This is quite honestly what I hate about the internet. My post was written to be informative and help elevate the discussion around getting better results from the scapes mode, instead it is taken the totally wrong way. Oh well.

Maybe I missed something?
The only negative post regarding any changes was Blitz who got way over defensive, but I didn't really take it as anyone having a go at your suggestions...

Either way, your results are pretty great and I like fact it gives a vague idea of the floor under the car, makes them look far more realistic. If we are all able to easily recreate the same look I don't see why we cant change to your settings.
Though any settings I'd like strictly enforced :lol:
 
I tested it out again, while making my entry for the GathRing comp.
Seems to be the right settings, but darker colors suffer in this new setting, as seen above on my Lancer.

Current


White Sands 09


White Sands 01

While I still think that the current settings still looks better compared to WS09, I do like the artistic look of WS01. The only thought I have is this - the colors pop less. But as for making all kinds of paint clearly visible compared to the current settings, I think it's an ok compromise.
 
Darker color? I don't see darker color, just sharper, crispier image with more contrast. I think it could be a good option, ws01 is my favorite. Also the angle fits.
 
Darker color? I don't see darker color, just sharper, crispier image with more contrast. I think it could be a good option, ws01 is my favorite. Also the angle fits.
See my Lancer, which was my point to the darkness. You don't really see it's purple, but more midnight purple. It's too dark. The rest is fine, headlights etc. But yes I do like WS01 too.
 
It could be tweaked, on darker schemes using the car mask to bump the brightness on just the car. Or just lifting the black corrections. That would be more of a case-by case thing, but wouldn't affect the background and overall lighting too much.

Maybe add a clause for darker schemes to bump brightness on the car mask layer up 25-50 spots?

And thanks guys. No offense taken, just a little bummed coming back to this board after so long and getting a meh response. All good though!

-Chris
 
From me it wasn’t meant to sound meh at all - I was really interested in what you wrote, and what you came up with was simply brilliant. I’m sorry if I bummed you out.

Like I said previously, we’ll give these new settings a go in the next round, and then accept both Shiretoko and WS01+09, in case someone fails to read the OP with its new changes.. ;) always someone who fails to read it anyway.

Sounds good? I hope so. Thank you, Chris. Your contribution is helpful and it helps the competition evolve.
 
I tested it out again, while making my entry for the GathRing comp.
Seems to be the right settings, but darker colors suffer in this new setting, as seen above on my Lancer.

Current


White Sands 09


White Sands 01

While I still think that the current settings still looks better compared to WS09, I do like the artistic look of WS01. The only thought I have is this - the colors pop less. But as for making all kinds of paint clearly visible compared to the current settings, I think it's an ok compromise.
WS01 looks perfect to me :drool:
 
Did a little bit of tweaking and I would suggest that an alteration be made to the above settings:

Temperature: 7500K
Color Cast Correction: +0.100

Car Mask:
Brightness: a range between 100 and 150.


100 Brightness:
150 Brightness
100 Brightness
150 Brightness

This allows for a wider range of colors to be more evenly matched in a contest, but since it's only the car mask changing, everything still looks uniform in the poll.
I also changed the temperature settings to be more neutral and to balance out a green/blue cast I noticed tonight.

Also, this is the default car position on WS01 zoomed in to just under 100mm. The car actually didn't fit but there's plenty of room to work with there.

-Chris
 
@WallRunner

I’ll definately try this on my darker liveries. Thanks for your continued support, Chris.

Sidenote, should the default position be enforced?
 
Sidenote, should the default position be enforced?

I feel like it's simple enough that it should be enforced and I don't see why anyone else would care a ton.
You have to move the camera to the left or right some to fit longer cars when you turn them, but the car is in the perfect spot for shooting as is.

-Chris
 
So I played around some more. I found that a +0.100 gave too much pink tint and a temperature of 7500 made the image too orange.

So here’s what I ended up with after some tweaking back and forth:

Zoom: 90/75/90mm
Aperture: f/32
Exposure Correction: +1.0
Shutter Speed: 1/1
Single AF on the A-pillar/mirror

Temperature: 6500
Color Cast Correction: 0.025

Screen Effect: Background Mask
Individual Correction:
Saturation: 100%
Brightness: 500
Contrast: 250
Highlight: 0

Car Effects:
Brightness 120





EDIT: Seems the flakey base of the top two isn't visible anymore.

EDIT 2: Decided to do a chrome car test as well.

Matte Chrome



Semi Gloss Chrome

 
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Whilst WS does appear better suited to paint thanks to its back/side lighting putting the side of the car into shadow (providing contrast), I just can't help feeling it's too dark and doesn't really highlight the livery all that well.

That green SLS looks amazing and really pops, but the others look a bit meh.

Also the angle loses more detail on the upper surfaces which already seemed to be an issue for people with Shiretoko which has a better 3/4 view.

Compare @syntex123 's 2F2F GT-R and you can hardly see the decals on the bonnet. And on the Castrol GT-R again you don't really see the bonnet and nothing of the roof.

If we're going down the route of finding a better scape, then I propose abandoning the 'studio' idea and just finding a scape that offers the best angle and lighting in general without the need for additional settings.
 
Whilst WS does appear better suited to paint thanks to its back/side lighting putting the side of the car into shadow (providing contrast), I just can't help feeling it's too dark and doesn't really highlight the livery all that well.

That green SLS looks amazing and really pops, but the others look a bit meh.

Also the angle loses more detail on the upper surfaces which already seemed to be an issue for people with Shiretoko which has a better 3/4 view.

Compare @syntex123 's 2F2F GT-R and you can hardly see the decals on the bonnet. And on the Castrol GT-R again you don't really see the bonnet and nothing of the roof.

If we're going down the route of finding a better scape, then I propose abandoning the 'studio' idea and just finding a scape that offers the best angle and lighting in general without the need for additional settings.
True, WS looks amazing but the angle is indeed different. If we want a non studio scape with a good angle, what I usually choose is one of the Mauna Kea scapes, the one I used in my liveries thread. Light is nice, not a lot of distractions, and the angle is good, also shows some roof.
 
Whilst WS does appear better suited to paint thanks to its back/side lighting putting the side of the car into shadow (providing contrast), I just can't help feeling it's too dark and doesn't really highlight the livery all that well.

That green SLS looks amazing and really pops, but the others look a bit meh.

I found it very hard for darker colors to look good as well, and turning the car around spawned a new issue: direct sunlight.

95FBAC84-0DB8-4982-85BA-6F6DC41FFE24.png


This helps brighten it up but it’s too much. (I liked @Baliwa’s livery so I had to make one myself, wth @baldgye’s rally light idea. :lol:)

Also the angle loses more detail on the upper surfaces which already seemed to be an issue for people with Shiretoko which has a better 3/4 view.

Compare @syntex123 's 2F2F GT-R and you can hardly see the decals on the bonnet. And on the Castrol GT-R again you don't really see the bonnet and nothing of the roof.

If we're going down the route of finding a better scape, then I propose abandoning the 'studio' idea and just finding a scape that offers the best angle and lighting in general without the need for additional settings.

Yes, they do lose a lot in this angle. I like the studio scape idea though, so it has to be like what @Strax says below, not a lot of distractions.

True, WS looks amazing but the angle is indeed different. If we want a non studio scape with a good angle, what I usually choose is one of the Mauna Kea scapes, the one I used in my liveries thread. Light is nice, not a lot of distractions, and the angle is good, also shows some roof.

We still have plenty of time to settle on something. A scape for suit/helmet liveries should be brought up too. I think I know just the one. I’ll test it once I get to my console.
 
With all of this discussion about the Mandatory Photos, how about bringing back the Head 2 Head format from the GT6 Photomode Competitions?

An example of it would be "Factory vs Itasha", where one can choose either to create a works livery for one poll or create an Itasha livery for the other poll. Then the two winning liveries will go up against each other to win said LEC week. Simple, am I right?
 
Right, I've had a play with the settings for Shiretoko and starting from scratch was able to set up a similar shot without quite so many 'extreme' settings required. The resulting shots are easier to set up and less oversaturated. (I've also respected the default F Stop settings so the shots are sharper).

Here's a couple of before and after shots comparing my previous settings with the new ones:

Old:


New:


Old:


New:


The new settings I used for these shots:

Car:
Detailed Settings:
- Key Lights: Off

Camera:
EV: +0.5

Effects:
Temperature: 9500 K

Screen Effects 1:
Mask: Background
Individual Colour Tone Correction:
- Saturation: 0
- Brightness: 500
- Contrast: 150 (This is key to controlling how light/dark the under-car shadow will appear)

Car Effects:
Individual Colour Tone Correction:
- Saturation: 125
- Brightness: 125
(Adjust these figures to suit the colour of the car)

They're by no means perfect, but for 10mins work they're an improvement of sorts (or a good starting block for people to experiment with).

I also played with a 'hack' for improving the lighting for special paints. With a bit of creativity you can place another car off the edge of the shot and switch it's headlights on to use them as a spot light for highlighting the side of the main car. Playing with the light intensity and glare settings gives you some nice effects. Some of the Gr.B cars have nice big LED light bars that work well for this!
 
Seeing the pics and the debate here conforts me in my idea : using the mandatory Shiretoko or White Sands scape as a reminder/thumbnail for the livery in the poll, and allow more bonus shots in the thread.

Whatever the mandatory scape will be, there always be someone not satisfied, will it be for the angle, the colour, the details...
 
With all of this discussion about the Mandatory Photos, how about bringing back the Head 2 Head format from the GT6 Photomode Competitions?

An example of it would be "Factory vs Itasha", where one can choose either to create a works livery for one poll or create an Itasha livery for the other poll. Then the two winning liveries will go up against each other to win said LEC week. Simple, am I right?

That seems like way too much work. I begin writing both threads and the front page post at 10 PM and usually finish JUST in time for the 11:59 deadline. Maybe in the future?

I also played with a 'hack' for improving the lighting for special paints. With a bit of creativity you can place another car off the edge of the shot and switch it's headlights on to use them as a spot light for highlighting the side of the main car. Playing with the light intensity and glare settings gives you some nice effects. Some of the Gr.B cars have nice big LED light bars that work well for this!

I'll definitely try this out. I have a livery that's relatively white and flat with the old settings. (My silver Ken Gushi livery, remember?)

Whatever the mandatory scape will be, there always be someone not satisfied, will it be for the angle, the colour, the details...

For me it feels like we're going in circles. I keep agreeing with everyone. :D But yeah White Sands and Shiretoko will probably be both allowed (and both settings will be posted in the OP) until something better comes along if we don't settle on anything yet.

I won't touch the current comp though, so if people want to test out now they're free to do so.
Like you said, whatever we do some will love it and some will hate it. Best we can do is try.



Back from some testin'


Old settings first then new settings.




It's definately softer and you can get a feel of the paint type, but again I feel darker colors suffer? Maybe they always did? It's still more a visible purple than on White Sands, though.
 
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The BRZ looks good, but the X looks like it needs the brightness and saturation playing with a bit.
 
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