- 1,139
- budious
I posted this in another thread earlier but I have been testing it more since then and am positive this works as is. Might be of some use to those needing to tune their suspension, you only need adjust your spring rate, anti-roll bars, and ride height once, then when you goto a different track depending on the surface conditions, change the dampers to any combination totaling 10.
For example, a FR on Deep Forest. Try Damper Extension 7 F / 3 R and Damper Compression 3 F / 7 R for a mix of front surface bump dampening and strong acceleration on the back end.
If you goto a course with a relatively smooth surface like Grand Valley Speedway or Laguna Seca, then you can set both ends up like the rear end on the example above, Damper Extensions 3 F / 3 R and Damper Compression 7 F / 7 R.
For example, a FR on Deep Forest. Try Damper Extension 7 F / 3 R and Damper Compression 3 F / 7 R for a mix of front surface bump dampening and strong acceleration on the back end.
If you goto a course with a relatively smooth surface like Grand Valley Speedway or Laguna Seca, then you can set both ends up like the rear end on the example above, Damper Extensions 3 F / 3 R and Damper Compression 7 F / 7 R.
I have been messing with the whole inverted damper thing today. There are certain benefits to that setup but the track surface has to be entirely smooth and predictable, not a lot of bumps to soak up, which when used sets impressive lap times on Grand Valley or Laguna Seca. However, try the same setup on Deep Forest and you find it doesn't work there about 20 seconds into the first lap.
I kind of had to make me an inverted chart to help get my head around the idea. The number in parenthesis (-) being the inverse as how many people think it should be or assume it is. The ones not in parenthesis how you set it in menu.
(-)-Rebound--------------------Bound----
-------------------------------------------- fast end of the spectrum
(1)-------10------------------------1------
(2)--------9------------------------2------
(3)--------8------------------------3------
(4)--------7------------------------4------
(5)--------6------------------------5------
(6)--------5------------------------6------
(7)--------4------------------------7------
(8)--------3------------------------8------
(9)--------2------------------------9------
(10)-------1-----------------------10-----
-------------------------------------------- slow end of the spectrum
Like so if for example, I tune my springs on Deep Forest using a neutral and standard bound equals rebound setup, then I could easily invert the setup by going -1 rebound and +1 bound and generally the result was stable, I could up that another level by another increment in opposite directions and the pair would usually be stable (assuming you're trying a smooth track like Grand Valley).
Basically, this rule of thumb kind of fit most of the time I tried it. I just take my setup as is for Deep Forest with say DE 5/5 and DC 5/5 and find DE 4/4 and DC 6/6 was a usable combination and the ride was more often than not balanced. Then if I wanted to try another increment, DE 3/3 and DC 7/7 would normally be stable as well. DE 2/2 and DC 8/8 also worked sometimes, DE 1/1 and DC 9/9 usually didn't, but sometimes DE 2/2 and DC 9/9 worked out. Much was dependent on spring rate in ratio increments or adjustments to anti-roll bars if DE 2/2 and DC 8/8 didn't work, it might work at the next spring rate tweak. Getting them to add up somewhere around 10, I know it sounds silly, seems to work - as a quick rule of thumb on my tunes.
Basically each increment either moves both towards the slow spectrum end or the fast spectrum end depending on how you want it to respond.
The other rule of thumb, "bound should be one setting below rebound" now also makes sense here since it one notch above the corresponding rebound (-) in the spectrum. So in theory now, bound 4/4 and rebound 6/6 can work for a lumpy track and bound 6/6 and rebound 4/4 works for a smooth track, etc.
Just to let you know how well this works, I just ran a 1:13.005" lap followed by a 1:13.006" on Deep Forest using a rebound of 10/10 and a bound of 2/2 on my Camaro Z/28 RM '69, it's like driving a stick of butter now... which actually adds up to 12, so bad example. DE 8/8 and DC 2/2, much better... now I want some stiffness back on my rear wheels for better acceleration but handling at the front, so DE 8/6 and DC 2/4... this makes tuning so stupid easy, can't believe I didn't see it until now.