Depends on drive style, how you are playing, wheel or pad; about how loose you want the car to feel, I prefer mine on the softer and rolling side. I know others feel more inclined to use a stiffer setup, so I can't say use my method, it's best for you because I don't know what you like; but...
RH 0/0 - stock suspension settings - car felt a bit stiff
RH -10/-10 - stock suspension settings - car felt a little freer; this was because spring settings were too stiff for your preferred feel or car's optimized cornering grip at ride height 0/0... lowering the ride height effectively makes a stiffer spring behave softer; the inverse is true of raising the ride height.
RH -10/-10 - you increased the spring rate by 10%, ie. 8/6 to 8.8/6.6 and the car feels more like it did with suspension at neutral (0/0) ride height, but the car's center of gravity is lower and it rolls less (reduced weight transfer) which, depending on tune style and drive style, can vary your preference. Think of lowered rides as needing camber to produce grip through lateral g-forces because they slide out, while higher rides lean over and press down to produce more grip and sometimes work best with no camber or little camber.
I typically tune camber last if because with my style of ride setups I may find it is unnecessary, and it also changes as you make further suspension changes, so best to start with spring rate, anti-roll bars, and dampers and get it driving to taste before attempting to setup camber. More camber on rear means more understeer, more camber on front means more oversteer, camber behavior is affected by tire temperature, higher cambers make it so tires take longer to heat up. Finding the right camber ratio of front to rear (ie: 15:8) or some other ratio can take a while, and be completely unbalanced due to changes in suspension or aero downforce changes.