Suspension Dampening Cheatgrid

  • Thread starter budious
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Ok, I keep hearing about "Spring Rate". Well, how do you find "optimal spring rates"?

- Jeramy

I know there has to be a couple people running around with equations, but I have yet to find one. I just test, and test and test. And then when I'm done with that I go back to some more testing. Eventually you'll find a Spring Rate that allows you to lower your ride without bottoming out, and giving you what you want in the handling department, weather that be Oversteer or Understeer.
 
Im pretty sure almost all spring rates in the game are proper stock.

So if you want to lower it just up the spring rates to compensate and same for dampers and roll bars.
 
Im pretty sure almost all spring rates in the game are proper stock.

More so often on premium cars anyways, just drive the BMW M3 or the Mustang Coupe and you'll find the stock suspensions might not be perfect under your driving style but they are pretty darn great for stock. Standards vary a bit more between perhaps close to way way off.
 
More so often on premium cars anyways, just drive the BMW M3 or the Mustang Coupe and you'll find the stock suspensions might not be perfect under your driving style but they are pretty darn great for stock. Standards vary a bit more between perhaps close to way way off.

Yeah try the Toyota MR-S S Edition. It comes stock with a front Spring Rate of around 1.5. The max you can get out of a Ride Height Adjustable Suspension is around 2.5ish. It's absolutely horrid, and took me a long time to set up right.
 
The reason I ask this is you see alot of tunes with the spring rate way up or down, from stock. I have also been told that you need to stiffen spring rates for running racing soft tires.

So, what I'm getting from people is.

If it oversteers: soften rear
If it understeers: stiffen rear

What about the front? I'm so lost with spring rates. . .

- Jeramy
 
The reason I ask this is you see alot of tunes with the spring rate way up or down, from stock. I have also been told that you need to stiffen spring rates for running racing soft tires.

So, what I'm getting from people is.

If it oversteers: soften rear
If it understeers: stiffen rear

What about the front? I'm so lost with spring rates. . .

- Jeramy

I will just repost some similar advice given in the BMW 330i thread I gave earlier.

You've answered a few of your own questions there without even realizing it. Dropping the ride height and seeing an improvement means the springs are too stiff at neutral ride height (RH 0), springs either get adjusted to higher rates for lowered cars or lower rates for jacked up cars. If you had luck with RH -10/-10 then a good spot to start looking might be -10% spring rate (loose example) then make small incremental adjustments from there up and down until you find improvements on handling and lap times you are looking for. LSD is dependent on getting the rest of the ride setup first, try to eliminate overly stiff dampers and anti-roll bars as much as you can, you should find some of the wheelspin will naturally phase itself out. LSD at 15/35/20 should work for most cars, try the one that comes stock on the car also (not the default values on the FC LSD; the actual one that came with the car). Oh, and also, try single plate clutch with stock flywheel or sports flywheel, semi-race flywheel only tends to exacerbate stiff setups.



Depends on drive style, how you are playing, wheel or pad; about how loose you want the car to feel, I prefer mine on the softer and rolling side. I know others feel more inclined to use a stiffer setup, so I can't say use my method, it's best for you because I don't know what you like; but...

RH 0/0 - stock suspension settings - car felt a bit stiff
RH -10/-10 - stock suspension settings - car felt a little freer; this was because spring settings were too stiff for your preferred feel or car's optimized cornering grip at ride height 0/0... lowering the ride height effectively makes a stiffer spring behave softer; the inverse is true of raising the ride height.
RH -10/-10 - you increased the spring rate by 10%, ie. 8/6 to 8.8/6.6 and the car feels more like it did with suspension at neutral (0/0) ride height, but the car's center of gravity is lower and it rolls less (reduced weight transfer) which, depending on tune style and drive style, can vary your preference. Think of lowered rides as needing camber to produce grip through lateral g-forces because they slide out, while higher rides lean over and press down to produce more grip and sometimes work best with no camber or little camber.

I typically tune camber last if because with my style of ride setups I may find it is unnecessary, and it also changes as you make further suspension changes, so best to start with spring rate, anti-roll bars, and dampers and get it driving to taste before attempting to setup camber. More camber on rear means more understeer, more camber on front means more oversteer, camber behavior is affected by tire temperature, higher cambers make it so tires take longer to heat up. Finding the right camber ratio of front to rear (ie: 15:8) or some other ratio can take a while, and be completely unbalanced due to changes in suspension or aero downforce changes.
 
hey guys. i have extensive and intamate knowlage of off road racing shox. not exactly what we're dealing with in GT5, but some fundamental knowlage always helps.bound is to controle the force of the tire being pushed up. extention or i call it rebound is to controle the force of the springs pushing the tire back down. higher spring rate=more ext (rebound controle) to stop the spring from pushing the car up. for the most part you guys are excellent detectives keep up the good work.
 
You might have extensive knowledge of shocks, but your spelling needs work. Proper grammar and spelling is expected on these forums.
 
You might have extensive knowledge of shocks, but your spelling needs work. Proper grammar and spelling is expected on these forums.
The irony of improper grammar usage, while lecturing proper grammar usage...:dopey:
 
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