Suzuka Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec II NUR R34

  • Thread starter Mr.NSX
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Here is my tune for my R34 on Suzuka. I want to try out new tunes from different drivers. I'm not too great with tuning but what I tried to aim for with this tune was to make it handle like a FR. Please leave comments. Thanks

Body/Chassis
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction
Carbon Hood
Chassis Reinforcement
Aero Kit (Up to you but I used a big GT wing for mine)

Engine
ECU tuning
Engine Stage 3
Sports Intake Manifold
Racing Air Filter
Titanium Exhaust
Stage 3 Turbo
Fully Customizable Transmission - Finally Gear 3.545 Top Speed 350 KM/H
Clutch Twin Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing

Adjustable LSD
Initial Torque 6/6
Acceleration 30/25
Braking Sensitivity 15/15

Torque Sensing Center Differential
30/70

Carbon Drive Shaft

Suspension
Height -25/-25
Spring rate 12.4/7.6
Extension 9/8
Compression 6/5
Anti-Roll Bars 2/3
Camber 2.5/0.6
Toe 0.10/0.25

Brakes 5/5
Tires Racing Soft

I lap around 2'00" with very little practice with this set up. I hope someone can post better tunes for the R34. Thanks
 
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Height 25/25
Spring rate 12.4/7.6
Anti-Roll Bars 2/3
Camber 2.5/0.6
Toe 0.10/0.25

Brakes 5/5
And others.

For the LSD, by head, I'd recommend cutting front decel, and else having 70%/100% from the same number (you put 70% at rear) : for exemple 7/10. Start from that, then fine tune it.

For brakes, since the weigth of the car is in front, front brake should brake more than rear, unless you're searching something very special with your car. (invert brakes works for brake stability problems for FF/FR and quick corner exit for MR cars). 4x4 and RR never break this rule anyway.

Height 25/25
4x4 understeer so you should lowering the front at least 10 less than rear. Also raising front and rear is quite... let's say stupid unless you want a rally setup. You want it to be the lowest possible on a road setup without touching the bumps on the road.

Anti roll bar should be higher. Take 4 as an average value and move from there if you find something is wrong. You have to "read" your car, it's very long.

Camber / Toe
For camber, if you put 2.6 on the frot, then you must have something like 1.5 to 3.2 at least in the rear. My max value for this is alway 3.2.
For toe I'd recommend putting toe to 0/0 on most setings. I must be the very last thing you touch, just to correct something you couldn't. I almost never use it because it break badly the accel, the brake and top speed stability.

For spring strength, there's a thing that have been there in all gran turismo : since the car comes unmodified and the driving must be at least correct, the spring distribution is somhow correct for a +x/+x heigth (-10/-10 or +25/+25).
Start flat (0/0) and lower your car.
Pass on a bump at high speed.
If your car leave ground, higher it. When you have that height, you start to find if your spring are strong enough.
If no, put +10%/+10%, if yes, remove 10%/10%.

When you the driving is somehow correct with your springs strength you can fine 0.3 per 0.3 in front or rear depending what you feel the car is like.

The best setup I've ever seen for this car was on GT4, made by a tuner named Rac3rX. And guess what ? His tune is still more than less valid for GT5. It was an exeptional tune in GT4, it's a good tune in GT5 (the physic engine evolved).
 
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And others.

For the LSD, by head, I'd recommend cutting front decel, and else having 70%/100% from the same number (you put 70% at rear) : for exemple 7/10. Start from that, then fine tune it.

That wasn't what I was saying.

;)
 
And others.

For the LSD, by head, I'd recommend cutting front decel, and else having 70%/100% from the same number (you put 70% at rear) : for exemple 7/10. Start from that, then fine tune it.

For brakes, since the weigth of the car is in front, front brake should brake more than rear, unless you're searching something very special with your car. (invert brakes works for brake stability problems for FF/FR and quick corner exit for MR cars). 4x4 and RR never break this rule anyway.

Height 25/25
4x4 understeer so you should lowering the front at least 10 less than rear. Also raising front and rear is quite... let's say stupid unless you want a rally setup. You want it to be the lowest possible on a road setup without touching the bumps on the road.

Anti roll bar should be higher. Take 4 as an average value and move from there if you find something is wrong. You have to "read" your car, it's very long.

Camber / Toe
For camber, if you put 2.6 on the frot, then you must have something like 1.5 to 3.2 at least in the rear. My max value for this is alway 3.2.
For toe I'd recommend putting toe to 0/0 on most setings. I must be the very last thing you touch, just to correct something you couldn't. I almost never use it because it break badly the accel, the brake and top speed stability.

For spring strength, there's a thing that have been there in all gran turismo : since the car comes unmodified and the driving must be at least correct, the spring distribution is somhow correct for a +x/+x heigth (-10/-10 or +25/+25).
Start flat (0/0) and lower your car.
Pass on a bump at high speed.
If your car leave ground, higher it. When you have that height, you start to find if your spring are strong enough.
If no, put +10%/+10%, if yes, remove 10%/10%.

When you the driving is somehow correct with your springs strength you can fine 0.3 per 0.3 in front or rear depending what you feel the car is like.

The best setup I've ever seen for this car was on GT4, made by a tuner named Rac3rX. And guess what ? His tune is still more than less valid for GT5. It was an exeptional tune in GT4, it's a good tune in GT5 (the physic engine evolved).

Sorry I meant -25/-25 for height. This was very educational, but i can't really feel the bumps on suzuka unless i hit a curb. Suzuka is a really smooth track. :S
 
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