Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress

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This was announced earlier in the year but not seen anything more since.

GUITAMMER RECEIVES PATENT ON NEW TYPE OF HAPTIC TRANSDUCER

June 15, 2016


WESTERVILLE, OH The Guitammer Company (OTCQB: GTMM), the worldwide leader in haptic-tactile broadcast technology and creator of the award-winning ButtKicker®-brand low frequency audio transducers that provide a uniquely immersive entertainment experience, announced today that it recently received a patent on a new type of low frequency transducer for haptic effects.

This new transducer, the “K Series,” is completely different and distinct from the Company’s “ButtKicker®” brand products.
It features a form factor that allows it to be scaled from one centimeter (less than ½ of one-inch wide) or even smaller, all the way up to 30 centimeters (12 inches) and beyond. For example, a 12.5 cm (approximately 5 inches) wide unit is less than 3.5 cm (approximately 1.4 inches) thick.

Because of their width to thickness to power ratios, these transducers will be ideal in applications and products that ButtKicker transducers cannot be used with and should help further expand and grow Guitammer’s haptic hardware sales, especially in the cinema and gaming markets.

Like Guitammer’s ButtKicker low frequency transducers, these units are both powerful and musically accurate and designed for the most demanding types of installations and uses.

The “K series” is expected to be available for sale in Q4 of 2016; pricing has not been released.
 
Hi all
I am planning to add tactile to my Xbox One rig soon. I am in UK and thinking ADX Maximus and Reckhorn 2.1 amp from Shakercentre. I also have an old Denon 2307 receiver no longer used that would be cheaper but I just cant work out how to implement crossover to make that usable.

I'd be bolting the ADX to the base of my Cobra Monaco Pro seat - the seat has 4 base holes (I have it mounted to 8020 rig using side plates) so I guess I will make a wooden plate with the appropriate 4 holes and the screw the ADX onto that.

I'm still not entirely sure how to best get the audio out of the Xbox. I guess I'll check if the TV I use has a headphone port and perhaps use splitters from that.

Any "console tactile" tips on tweaks to the above gratefully received.
 
Hi all
I am planning to add tactile to my Xbox One rig soon. I am in UK and thinking ADX Maximus and Reckhorn 2.1 amp from Shakercentre. I also have an old Denon 2307 receiver no longer used that would be cheaper but I just cant work out how to implement crossover to make that usable.

I'd be bolting the ADX to the base of my Cobra Monaco Pro seat - the seat has 4 base holes (I have it mounted to 8020 rig using side plates) so I guess I will make a wooden plate with the appropriate 4 holes and the screw the ADX onto that.

I'm still not entirely sure how to best get the audio out of the Xbox. I guess I'll check if the TV I use has a headphone port and perhaps use splitters from that.

Any "console tactile" tips on tweaks to the above gratefully received.

You need an Audio extractor which is fairly cheap. Something like this will work.

 
Hi all
I am planning to add tactile to my Xbox One rig soon. I am in UK and thinking ADX Maximus and Reckhorn 2.1 amp from Shakercentre. I also have an old Denon 2307 receiver no longer used that would be cheaper but I just cant work out how to implement crossover to make that usable.

I'd be bolting the ADX to the base of my Cobra Monaco Pro seat - the seat has 4 base holes (I have it mounted to 8020 rig using side plates) so I guess I will make a wooden plate with the appropriate 4 holes and the screw the ADX onto that.

I'm still not entirely sure how to best get the audio out of the Xbox. I guess I'll check if the TV I use has a headphone port and perhaps use splitters from that.

Any "console tactile" tips on tweaks to the above gratefully received.

Hi, noticed that the Denon 2307 was (like more recent models) an amp that supported 6/8ohm instead of 4/8ohm. It may work okay with ADX at 4ohm (espicially with only 2 units) and not trigger the safety mode to cut the amp out as Denon had pretty good amps/power supplies.

Consider ordering the tactile and trying first before buying the Reckhorn amp perhaps? Several years ago myself and others on the forums here did this with AV amps, some just sending the full range audio signal. I myself preferred at the time to use an audio converter box that took the digital audio output and created analogue multichannel RCA for L/R/ RL/RR or I decide to use 4 units for dual A/B stereo. These I used with 2xBehringer FBQ3102 EQ prior to them going into the multichannel input of the AV reciever. So I had full manual EQ available on a model that supported more bands in the lower sub 100Hz than typical EQ units from the 80s/90s/00s and also crossover with high/low cut settings.




With audio tactile it is a good thing to have this control.
I still have 3 or 4 of those EQ laying around and if yourself or someone else (UK) wants a bargain I would happily sell for cheap as I no longer will use them and its a shame they sit going to waste.

As for the crossover and other features this is one reason the iNuke DSP are so popular with the extra control they bring and I certainly would not see the Reckhorn as a better purchase at similar money.

Hope its some help and good to still see people getting into tactile. Look forward to your experiences and that of others here.

Ive enjoyed Horizon 3 and GOW 4 with my own tactile and looking forward to BF1 for feeling some of those nice explosions and gunfire. :)
 
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An ADX mounted like this:-

DSC01954_zpsutorvrj2.jpg


Gives a response like this (1 - weakest, 5 - strongest):-

16-22Hz = 1
23-25Hz = 2
26-27Hz = 3
28-30Hz = 4
31-35Hz = 5
36-44Hz = 4
45-50Hz = 3
51-68Hz = 2
69-119Hz = 1
120-139Hz = 2

It picks up a bit at the end but I think putting a cut off of around 60Hz in the iNuke amp works well. The shakers make less audible sound if you do that.

So it seems the best range for the ADX is about 26-50Hz which is quite narrow. How do the bigger Buttkickers perform. Would something like the Buttkicker Advance or LFE have a wider more even range of usable frequencies ?
 
Good job on the tests, with the others it can only help people get an idea how they operate. The frequencies you highlight as working best are also the ones to consider using in Simvibe for effects you want to give priority.

60Hz is low as some effects will give detailing upto about 100Hz where they start to feel feel very faint (even above 90hz). You can of course with the inuke DSP reduce the mid 60-70 ranges via the PEQ feature than cut it off..

Kickers can have more punch and deeper rumble feeling, both the Advance and LFE offer much, much stronger low end but even between them their is quite a difference. The LFE is good at 10-20Hz but really good with 20-45Hz. I usually limit mine to about 45-50Hz and let a different unit have control of the higher frequencies.

Great to see you helping out and sharing...
 
Another test here, Thanks Mr Latte for the comment. You're on it.





My question is, does FabFilter EQ let you assign specific frequencies to specific shakers, like the iNuke? That would be great news for us without DSP amps. Are there any other software options to do this?
 
Hey thanks, that was a great little test you did.
I was aware of the 35Hz issue stated here over 3 years ago but you demonstrate it really well. I slowed the video down around the 30Hz mark to see how the water started splashing much more.

btw luv the race inspired outfit. :)

The mini units just do not seem to like being over stressed at 35 cycles per second (Hz). Perhaps this is their peak performance and they can spike with the amplitude this frequency has with high amounts of volume intensity?

I have asked users on here in the past to do tests with the inuke dsp but seemingly such gets ignored or certainly I do not remember anyone really looking to tackle this common issue with all the mini series or BK Gamer units. If I still owned one I would of done such just out of interest.

Take note, larger wavelengths (lower Hz) err (less per second) contain more energy, so when they have a higher volume it seems the amount of energy produced is beyond what the unit can handle. My assumption is the combined energy is beyond the resistance of the magnets push/pull causing the piston to hit the casing. I am told and seen others discuss this as simply a "volume issue" not a frequency based one. Some perhaps do not grasp understanding the differences of amplitude (size of wave) and volume (how loud). We also have to remember Simvibe is generating possibly lots of various wavelengths at any given time (user set tone values for tone generated effects) and textures with their fixed output.




Some Understanding





(You may notice on some of my videos I show the wavelength with an oscilloscope plugin.
It is ideal for showing the variation of waveforms that different effects may generate with different types of curbs)

* This will be covered in an upcoming guide for Assetto Corsa

Screen Cap of "engine waveforms / notice different sizes"




Ahh look more waveforms & harmonics
(Fast Fourier Transform)




The way to control this is to reduce the "energy" around the culprit 35Hz wavelength.
This indeed should be possible without reducing overall volume intensity for all the frequencies which is what people have to do with standard amplifiers.

*You could try your soundcards EQ by reducing the 30Hz slider. Or other software EQ but do take note. It could diminish the output of Simvibe with other frequencies as well. It really requires specific individual Hz control like a Parametric EQ. Their are LOTS of such software tools available for windows but I cannot speak of their quality or effectivness and take care with the usual adware or other factors sometimes an issue with so called "free" software or demos. Some Hi-Fi stereo type forums may be the best place to ask what would be a good possible software option. Also understand these will usually only offer 2 channels (L/R) of operation. Another issue is that many such apps even tablet/phone are not suitbale for low frequencies or below 20Hz.

Do consider upgrading your amp as using the inuke's PEQ feature will be much cheaper and easier than some of the professional or multichannel software options. Fab Filter with a DAW and a USB multichannel interface are not cheap. That plugin alone is almost the price of the inuke dsp 1000. While it will allow much more professional tools/applications these also come with a much larger learning curve.

With inuke DSP its SO SIMPLE,
something like this (example not test) will reduce the units output regards clipping/bottoming at 35Hz:

Notice 30Hz = -2dB / 35Hz = -5 and so forth (you choose which Hz and upto -15db or +15db
I think it is a very underestimated tool for controlling your tactile.

The visual graph gives an idea of how some frequencies are set to negative dB and others to positive dB.



This is only a mock up (not example of what to do) using other software/plugins on a DAW but look at the curve of the yellow line. Cutting and boosting various frequencies we are altering the scale/size/energy of individual wavelengths.




See this post for how I made my dual big sized LFE suit late evening usage creating a "Midnight" mode reducing the amplitude of all the frequencies even though the amp itself was still at 3/4 volume. I think most people perhaps think it is no benefit or it is too hard to do/understand?

Yet it's such an easy thing to learn and do as well as you will feel the difference altering in real-time. I do still hold out that one day a member here will indeed investigate and give such a try commenting on if it was a success or not but I fully expect it to be possible based on my own experiences with the bigger units I have.

Lastly, let me say again, I am no expert by any means but I have tried to research and learn about these things and get a better understanding of Simvibe effects in general.Hope this post is of some help to others, I take the time to do such to try and help not to be seen as some self proclaimed smart ass.


*PS I would be really keen to find out if the ADX are same internal units if you would care to oblige opening your ADX? I have an image of the Aura Pro but not fully dismantled and no longer have them.

Im curious if Aura Pro / Woon / Reckhorn / ADX use what may be Sintron - Rockwood units.
Not sure if these are correct or the ones used in other models like Bass Pumps but they look the same.

Aura Pro
 
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Yes, I agree the Inuke appears awesome. Ramping the under 35 down and other corrections is the goal.

The inuke graph looks perfect, does it work?
By squashing the under 35s like that, do you just turn up the amp to restore the volume of the lows, then the above 35s are now much louder to match lows? Do the lows sound as good as they did before squashing? the highs?

Inuke is simply out of range for most including myself. I can see how a $150 inuke1000 might tame a couple miniLFEs but ADX and AuraPro are so well behaved in my limited testing in AC and Pcars that any basic adjustments can be made in simvibe. Advanced voicing and harmonics would require more control obviously but current layering and effects in simvibe can also produce nice rich tones.

It's hard to beat 4x100 sure plate amp for $90 plus another $14 for volume knobs. I already wasted $100 on the dayton SA100 with it's single channel.

I did run the crap out of the ADX and AuraPro on SA100 in AC and Pcars tonite. Running single shaker at 4ohms and half power they both got super hot. Way too hot to touch. I'm getting a thermometer to measure.
In series at 8 ohm with mini LFE and half power, they still got almost as hot, untill miniLFE overheated after about 10 minutes

Results were good. AuraPro performed pretty darn good, almost as strong as ADX.
ADX had stronger shake throughout and went down to about 9 or 10hz.
AuraPro had very similar shake response in car, just slightly weaker and about 12hz low.
Aura had slightly more audible 'AM static' sounding noise than adx but both were loud and roared the rpm. When tuned to match actual RPM it's awesome.
That said there was somthing missing without the miniLFE. The piston is almost required otherwise it's just a mush of buzzing from the adx/aura diaphram thing. Speaking of which, here's pics of the ADX. I'll tear down the Aura soon.

IMG_3768.jpg
IMG_3777.jpg
IMG_3781.jpg
IMG_3792.jpg
IMG_3791.jpg
 
Great post, lots of good details and nice to see someone put some effort in. Thank you for showing the internals of the ADX and your findings. Doing temp readings would be interesting for future as would the Aura Pro comparison.

The big LFE can still bottom but it happens only occasionally for me if things are cranked. So I can only go by my experiences with it and yes the control the PEQ & GEQ brings make a big difference.

I think with the DSP features it will help anyone find a balance of restricting the energy for specific Hz. I don't know if its possible to totally limit the 35Hz issue but it does allow you to personalise how your units may be performing. If we had an owner of Mini LFE with inuke amp willing to help it would be great to have their feedback too.

Can I help you?
If you want to list the effects you generally use for AC or show screenshots of Simvibe settings.
What I can do is put your settings into a profile and monitor what's going on with a video to discover how/what effects are busiest. Will this have a bearing on what is causing the tactile units to heat so quickly or get so warm? I'm guessing you are using textures with high sensitivity and possibly vertical surges amongst your effects.

Keep an eye on ebay perhaps, as I got an inuke dsp 1000 just recently for £90 which is £60 below the new price.
Also some of my own tactile were ebay bargains.
 
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Some on-going events in personal life are taking their toll.

My own tactile exploration will continue but it is clear that my obsession with wanting to push the boundaries, discover solutions and take the potential immersion further is not of much interest to some others.

When genuine enthusiasm for the tactile testing/experimentation. Or the immersion factor I currently have, with my own custom solution overtakes the general interest of actual sim racing. Then I have to realise that it is becoming like an obsession. Taking up quite a lot of my spare time and rather than continue to be of annoyance on these or other forums with the crap that I put out. Regardless of the progress or understanding I have made recently with Simvibe's effects and controls, its best to continue doing such in private. This includes not annoying anybody nor feel uncomfortable as being seen as trying to ram ideas or give advise, often by over complicating things on these or other forums for such matters.

Thanks to those that showed some interest in the recent PM Conversation, wish you well but its best to contain my bad habits with this topic or personality disorders away form you nice folk on the internet.

With respect and a cheer from Im sure some, it's time to leave you in peace and step back from all this.
 
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Hope things get better Latte. You ain't goin anywhere, you're too deep in this :D
I was just reading threads by you from years ago where you were a mod. Tons of great info in there,and your passion even then, and now. You feel it. It's in you. Vibrating. :P

Myself, I couldnt afford to go hifi tactile and get 8 channels. Simvibe just added the 8th recently. Now I have 8 shakers cookin and it's superb. Like a herd of galloping buffalo goin down the back stretch of Willow Springs in Formula A.

The ADXs are loud at higher frequencies, enough to cause ear ringing. Cuttin it back in Simvibe is pretty abrupt. Sure would be nice to have DSP :P Layering RPM effects and using filters is good enough tho in combination with the other shakers.
Buttkicker barely bottoms out on plate amp. No real need for DSP there on such a mild amp. I'm sure there's more there to get but it's not really needed for me with all the other shakin goin on.

AuraPros seem to work fine on pedals. More than enough shake and not much noise.

I've found, even with one shaker, that it can be distracting and fatiguing. I turn it up to 3/4 or more for guests but when it comes time to really race, I turn them down halfway to provide useful but not overpowering RPM and road effects. It's ****ing awesome :D

I ran the thrustmaster F1 in R3E. It was killin pCars AND AC for sound, FF and perhaps tactile IMO. It was intense. Check it out.
See you on the track...
 
Greetings gentlemen:

In your opinion, which is the better transducer between the Clark Synthesis TST329 Gold:

http://www.parts-express.com/clark-synthesis-tst329-gold-tactile-transducer-bass-shaker--300-862

and the Buttkicker Advanced:

http://www.parts-express.com/buttkicker-bk4-4-advance-home-theater-and-gaming-transducer--300-9404


The Buttkicker is about $165 cheaper, but of all the videos and comparisons I've watched, the one thing that keep coming back is how much more refined the effects of the Clarks are. Maybe for sim-racing both are adequate enough?

A few people seem to be running the Clark TST209s. The 209s seem to get the job done, but I think I'm looking for a bit more power. Do you think the Clark Synthesis TST329 Gold is a nice step up, or do you think it'd be overkill for sim-racing, with a max wattage of 400? Would the Clark silver be more appropriate? At $364.95 x 4 for the TST329 Gold, it would be just under $1500. I *could* swing it but I'm not sure what to do....
 
I did run the crap out of the ADX and AuraPro on SA100 in AC and Pcars tonite. Running single shaker at 4ohms and half power they both got super hot. Way too hot to touch. I'm getting a thermometer to measure.
In series at 8 ohm with mini LFE and half power, they still got almost as hot, untill miniLFE overheated after about 10 minutes

I know this is a late response, but I've only just read your post. If your bass shakers are getting hot you can keep them cool by fitting fans. I haven't needed to do this myself, but I have seen PC fans mounted to cool shakers. I did see a setup with each mounted directly above each shaker - I couldn't find that image just now, but did find this example.

Aura with Fan.jpg
 
@jennanitro

Your video highlighted the very common issue with the smaller BK units and them NOT keeping control with low frequencies. Also in how they would overheat. Here is a simple solution for it when using the inuke DSP amplifiers.

One added, filter basically preventing it from happening but doing so with little performance drop and maintaining strong dB within Simvibe. Doing such without reducing the overall amplifier strength of all frequencies or causing the immersion to be reduced as has to be done on a standard amplifier, (like 1/3 volume which sucks).

For those over at SimXperience forums inc Mr Villers that may say inuke DSP is best "not used" or that has no gains. It's too complicated.

Here is proof in how easy and effective it can be. Using only a "single filter" which couldn't be easier and achieving something that can't be done with a standard amp and these BK models.

See Here, other inuke DSP owners with the smaller BK models are welcome to test/try.
I have a review thread appearing on RD forums in the near future regards the inuke DSP 1000 on how to use the DSP for various purposes and even swap out its noisy fans.
 
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I know this is a late response, but I've only just read your post. If your bass shakers are getting hot you can keep them cool by fitting fans. I haven't needed to do this myself, but I have seen PC fans mounted to cool shakers. I did see a setup with each mounted directly above each shaker - I couldn't find that image just now, but did find this example.


View attachment 624337

If getting hot due to Simvibe usage then I recommend these as options to consider:

  • Avoid using below 20Hz were possible
  • Try using less effects at one time
  • Reduce or remove Texture Based Effects (these can use very low - very high Hz)
  • Reduce the % of Sensitivity of some effects not all need high 90s to feel good
  • Keep Engine effects intensity at -2dB
  • Be sure not to use excessive wattage

If using audio tactile and overheating try using a crossover to limit frequency response to what the Aura Pro general specs list as operating from @ 20Hz - 80Hz. This can easily be done on an inuke DSP amp as well using the crossover utility and also digitally limit the wattage to what the units operate with.

Appreciate if ANY inuke DSP owners have experiences to share or want to better learn how to use the DSP features to possible better calibrate and tune your tactile.
 
Hello All

First of all, I apologize for the intrusion but I have seen some of your post on some forums, and let me congratulate you on such posts,
I started shortly with simracing after experiencing a F1 racing simulator. I got home and started looking to take my son's ps4 to do something like that. So far I have put together some items that I am buying on auctions.

Now that I have the chair (RS1 from RSEAT), sound (logitech z906) and image (samsung 49" 4k Curved) would like to indulge in the pure adrenaline in the 4 dimension that are the vibrations :) off bass shakers

According with some posts I bought an Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP Amplifier and 3 ButtKicker Mini LFE

I do not look for anything very effusive, but I would at least have the right and left feeling in my rseat, but the more I read the more I get confuse about the possibilities and variations of amplifiers and how to rig all of them so I thought you could help me.

So I would like to know how can I accomplish this whim (according to what my wife tells me; ~)


Kind Regards and grateful for your availability

André
 
Hello All

First of all, I apologize for the intrusion but I have seen some of your post on some forums, and let me congratulate you on such posts,
I started shortly with simracing after experiencing a F1 racing simulator. I got home and started looking to take my son's ps4 to do something like that. So far I have put together some items that I am buying on auctions.

Now that I have the chair (RS1 from RSEAT), sound (logitech z906) and image (samsung 49" 4k Curved) would like to indulge in the pure adrenaline in the 4 dimension that are the vibrations :) off bass shakers

According with some posts I bought an Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP Amplifier and 3 ButtKicker Mini LFE

I do not look for anything very effusive, but I would at least have the right and left feeling in my rseat, but the more I read the more I get confuse about the possibilities and variations of amplifiers and how to rig all of them so I thought you could help me.

So I would like to know how can I accomplish this whim (according to what my wife tells me; ~)


Kind Regards and grateful for your availability

André

@Mr Latte will be able to give you more detailed information, but I'll try and give you a hand. The Behringer Amp can be set to power different ohm loads - specifically 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 8 ohm. The amp can be run in bridged mono mode or in stereo - you will need to run it in stereo to get left and right effects.

The Mini LFE is 4 ohm and you have bought 3 units. To run stereo with 3 shakers you will need to run 2 off one channel and 1 off the other channel. You will need to set the amp to 4 ohm for the single shaker and either 8 ohm and wire the two remaining shakers in series or 2 ohm and wire in parallel. From memory, that amp when in stereo mode can run 2 ohms at 500W RMS, 4 ohms at 250W RMS or 8 ohms at 150W RMS.

With my PS4 the optical output runs to a 5.1 audio system. The TV is connected to the PS4 via an HDMI cable and I use the TV headphone out to provide a stereo audio signal to the shaker amplifier (the PS3 had more connection options than my current PS4 Pro so I used to use a different setup).

For 3 Mini LFE, if the goal is stereo tactile effects I would recommend fitting one shaker under each side of the chair and one shaker under the pedal area. This area normally needs less shaking effect so one shaker may be enough. Note the effect feels unnatural if you have strong vibrations in the seat area and none in the pedals - this is because in a real car you actually get more vibration in the foot area / pedals than in the seat.

You will need to isolate your rig / seat / pedals with rubber. Also you will need to experiment with mounting points for the shakers. note results vary depending on the seat construction, mountings and level of isolation - results can be disappointing or satisfactory and can take a lot of experimentation to optimise.

If you need additional information you can message me via GT Planet.

Welcome to the world of tactile transducers!
 
@Mr Latte will be able to give you more detailed information, but I'll try and give you a hand. The Behringer Amp can be set to power different ohm loads - specifically 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 8 ohm. The amp can be run in bridged mono mode or in stereo - you will need to run it in stereo to get left and right effects.

The Mini LFE is 4 ohm and you have bought 3 units. To run stereo with 3 shakers you will need to run 2 off one channel and 1 off the other channel. You will need to set the amp to 4 ohm for the single shaker and either 8 ohm and wire the two remaining shakers in series or 2 ohm and wire in parallel. From memory, that amp when in stereo mode can run 2 ohms at 500W RMS, 4 ohms at 250W RMS or 8 ohms at 150W RMS.

With my PS4 the optical output runs to a 5.1 audio system. The TV is connected to the PS4 via an HDMI cable and I use the TV headphone out to provide a stereo audio signal to the shaker amplifier (the PS3 had more connection options than my current PS4 Pro so I used to use a different setup).

For 3 Mini LFE, if the goal is stereo tactile effects I would recommend fitting one shaker under each side of the chair and one shaker under the pedal area. This area normally needs less shaking effect so one shaker may be enough. Note the effect feels unnatural if you have strong vibrations in the seat area and none in the pedals - this is because in a real car you actually get more vibration in the foot area / pedals than in the seat.

You will need to isolate your rig / seat / pedals with rubber. Also you will need to experiment with mounting points for the shakers. note results vary depending on the seat construction, mountings and level of isolation - results can be disappointing or satisfactory and can take a lot of experimentation to optimise.

If you need additional information you can message me via GT Planet.

Welcome to the world of tactile transducers!
Thanks Sick Cylinder!!
That was sort my idea, but I was thinking of putting the one in the pedals in bridge mode instead of putting just on the left or right channel, can I do this?
I attach some pictures of my rig!!! comment of how can I update my rig will be welcome.
Thanks again for the reply!!!
Andre
IMG_6903.JPG IMG_6905.JPG
 
Thanks Sick Cylinder!!
That was sort my idea, but I was thinking of putting the one in the pedals in bridge mode instead of putting just on the left or right channel, can I do this?
I attach some pictures of my rig!!! comment of how can I update my rig will be welcome.
Thanks again for the reply!!!
Andre

If you use your behringer amp for L and R stereo for the seat you will need to run the pedals off the left or right channel. If you run the amp in bridged mono mode it would also be in mono for the seat and three 4 ohm shakers wired in series would create a 12 ohm load, which cannot be powered by that amp as it is rated for 2, 4 or 8 ohm loads - so avoid that option.

Personally I would try the pedals on one channel - left or right with the seat on left and right. Check if the amp is fine powering 2 Mini LFE from one channel. You may find that you are happy with this setup. If you want to have stereo effects in the pedal area get an extra Mini LFE and run them in pairs. You would need an extra amplifier (and probably a stereo to mono converter) to run mono in the pedal area with stereo effects in the seat area - it would be cheaper to get a 4th Mini LFE and run them in pairs in stereo.

Regarding isolation of the rig start by using rubber isolators under the rig - either the Buttkicker ones or the equivalent, but cheaper Penn Elcom 9106:

https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-9106-rubber-cabinet-foot-25-dia-x-1-h--260-772

Try the pedal area without additional isolation first. If you get too much shaking effect from the pedals and / or seat into the wheel area this is undesirable for the delicate electronics in the wheel. If this happens it is best to isolate the pedals from the rig by mounting on a separate sheet of steel - you can use car exhaust bobbins as isolators. The seat may also need to be isolated. Rubber door stops are cheap and may be useful.

To get the best effect from the Mini LFE's you can use a long mounting bracket - some people use the bracket / arm from the Buttkicker Gamer to get maximum effect.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/?iid=33187...8&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0&chn=ps
 
If you use your behringer amp for L and R stereo for the seat you will need to run the pedals off the left or right channel. If you run the amp in bridged mono mode it would also be in mono for the seat and three 4 ohm shakers wired in series would create a 12 ohm load, which cannot be powered by that amp as it is rated for 2, 4 or 8 ohm loads - so avoid that option.

Personally I would try the pedals on one channel - left or right with the seat on left and right. Check if the amp is fine powering 2 Mini LFE from one channel. You may find that you are happy with this setup. If you want to have stereo effects in the pedal area get an extra Mini LFE and run them in pairs. You would need an extra amplifier (and probably a stereo to mono converter) to run mono in the pedal area with stereo effects in the seat area - it would be cheaper to get a 4th Mini LFE and run them in pairs in stereo.

Regarding isolation of the rig start by using rubber isolators under the rig - either the Buttkicker ones or the equivalent, but cheaper Penn Elcom 9106:

https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-9106-rubber-cabinet-foot-25-dia-x-1-h--260-772

Try the pedal area without additional isolation first. If you get too much shaking effect from the pedals and / or seat into the wheel area this is undesirable for the delicate electronics in the wheel. If this happens it is best to isolate the pedals from the rig by mounting on a separate sheet of steel - you can use car exhaust bobbins as isolators. The seat may also need to be isolated. Rubber door stops are cheap and may be useful.

To get the best effect from the Mini LFE's you can use a long mounting bracket - some people use the bracket / arm from the Buttkicker Gamer to get maximum effect.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/?iid=33187...8&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0&chn=ps
Thanks Sick Cylinder

About connections what cables you use to connect the tv to the Behringer amp and from amp to the mini lfe's?

Kind regards
André
 
Thanks Sick Cylinder

About connections what cables you use to connect the tv to the Behringer amp and from amp to the mini lfe's?

Kind regards
André

Sorry for the delay in responding. You will need to check the Behringer manual to be certain on the connection options. (I am not currently using my Behringer amp, but from memory it features a choice of two types - I think one is Neutrik Speakon and the other a type of jack). You will likely need adapters or to purchase leads, cut one end off and solder the required ends for example female RCA. If you use a mini jack to twin male RCA from the TV that may link - but check your TV.

The Mini LFE's can be connected by bare wire so to connect from the amp to those buy two leads that fit the Behringer then cut one end off and strip back the insulation to create bare wire. Thick wire will be needed to connect one of the Mini LFE's to another (as you have 3, 2 will have to be paired in parallel or series). You can use thick speaker wire or normal domestic mains cable and strip the ends of the conductors. Avoid really thin wire if possible.
 
Sorry for the delay in responding. You will need to check the Behringer manual to be certain on the connection options. (I am not currently using my Behringer amp, but from memory it features a choice of two types - I think one is Neutrik Speakon and the other a type of jack). You will likely need adapters or to purchase leads, cut one end off and solder the required ends for example female RCA. If you use a mini jack to twin male RCA from the TV that may link - but check your TV.

The Mini LFE's can be connected by bare wire so to connect from the amp to those buy two leads that fit the Behringer then cut one end off and strip back the insulation to create bare wire. Thick wire will be needed to connect one of the Mini LFE's to another (as you have 3, 2 will have to be paired in parallel or series). You can use thick speaker wire or normal domestic mains cable and strip the ends of the conductors. Avoid really thin wire if possible.

Thanks Sick Cylinder

I finally get to connect all the cables to 2 of the Mini LFE, turned on the power and it works!!!! :)

The Inuke have many tweaks, do you know were I can find some presets or information regarding Inuke and Tactile, as I get vibration on almost every sound and lack some more strong vibrations on hits and crashes?
I think I read in some forum about this but I already try to find it but with no result!!! :(

Thanks for all the help.

Regards
 
Thanks Sick Cylinder

I finally get to connect all the cables to 2 of the Mini LFE, turned on the power and it works!!!! :)

The Inuke have many tweaks, do you know were I can find some presets or information regarding Inuke and Tactile, as I get vibration on almost every sound and lack some more strong vibrations on hits and crashes?
I think I read in some forum about this but I already try to find it but with no result!!! :(

Thanks for all the help.

Regards

There are several people who use this forum who are experts with this amp - hopefully some will respond to this thread, but if not try sending a message to one of the following: @Mr Latte @Carson79 @LogiForce
 
Some on-going events in personal life are taking their toll.

Hi Mr Latte, just a personal observation, you are taking the tactile/immersion way, way, way over the top. You drove Berney Villers (Simcommander/SimVibe) inventor from this site. You tried telling him you were right and he was wrong. That he didn't know what he was talking about. Then that wasn't enough, you came over to iRacing forum, (Berney's stomping grounds) and you proceeded to tell him that you were right and he was wrong (again).

It got you banned from iRacing (which is rare). As Berney stated over their, you are on some kind of power trip where you are trying to impress. I've been at this for many years and have never seen such a debacle. Tactile immersion with SimVibe does not need to be complicated, an amp and a transducer. Low/mid/high end. Minimum amount of money or maximum amount of money. Personally the mid range is what I prefer.

For those that are serious about sim racing and tactile experience we are talking about PC's and SimVibe. My first setup was over 10 years ago, before SimVibe but I made it work. There is this myth that you need a expensive soundcard and big ticket amps and transducers to have a great system. This is not true, a cheap Dayton amp and Aura transducer is all you need. I did an article at iRacing on various options and in the next day or two I write it here.

Rodney, (Mr Latte) I suggested once to you and I will one more time, you don't need to reinvent the wheel, get your rig built and get out and race. There are many good racing games out there, so get strapped in and enjoy the fruits of your labour.

cheers
 
Hi Mr Latte, just a personal observation, you are taking the tactile/immersion way, way, way over the top. You drove Berney Villers (Simcommander/SimVibe) inventor from this site. You tried telling him you were right and he was wrong. That he didn't know what he was talking about. Then that wasn't enough, you came over to iRacing forum, (Berney's stomping grounds) and you proceeded to tell him that you were right and he was wrong (again).

It got you banned from iRacing (which is rare). As Berney stated over their, you are on some kind of power trip where you are trying to impress. I've been at this for many years and have never seen such a debacle. Tactile immersion with SimVibe does not need to be complicated, an amp and a transducer. Low/mid/high end. Minimum amount of money or maximum amount of money. Personally the mid range is what I prefer.

For those that are serious about sim racing and tactile experience we are talking about PC's and SimVibe. My first setup was over 10 years ago, before SimVibe but I made it work. There is this myth that you need a expensive soundcard and big ticket amps and transducers to have a great system. This is not true, a cheap Dayton amp and Aura transducer is all you need. I did an article at iRacing on various options and in the next day or two I write it here.

Rodney, (Mr Latte) I suggested once to you and I will one more time, you don't need to reinvent the wheel, get your rig built and get out and race. There are many good racing games out there, so get strapped in and enjoy the fruits of your labour.

cheers

Your very much incorrect on some of the things you say and how you present them Left888 and I know what I have managed to achieve from my own tactile journey. Yet I dont and never have stated I am an expert, others tend to do that and I generally feel uncomfortable with it.

@5 Years ago BV was challenged to show proof/test data that his SE model, performed better as he claimed it did. It is nothing close to resemble being labelled a "Re Design" as it was advertised. By adding acoustic foam which eventually compresses by the piston, does not quantify it being better even if it helped reduce the piston noise.

The debate sir was in how he was advertising it and he did not like being challenged on it. Nor did he appreciate when I opened 3 BK models to see their internals and discover what the only difference was. I dont like BS from companies it was nothing personal to BV but quite frankly he did not handle it well neither and things at the time escalated.

I have never tried to tell people that they need XYZ to enjoy tactile. I have 43 pages of PMs on these forums alone mostly in dealing with helping people over the years for all budgets and types of tactile. Why, because I enjoyed doing it and the topic. I have probably helped promote/sell my fair share of his software and his shakers rather than be a thorn in his side.

My own interest then, as it still is.... Was to experiment and push the boundaries of what is possible with tactile. Im an enthusiast, so I didnt want to settle with average/normal. I enjoy futtering around with it as much as I do the racing or usage of it. Some people have a hard time understanding that. Having owned a great deal of various hardware over the years I was able to relate to differences and abilities of such hardware and experiment.

Ideally however, the person that is content and happy with what they have is likely happier than someone with much more and not content.

Your welcome to your own views of course but at least respect that some of us can have differing opinions and ideas nor necessarily like the whole way that BV went about Simvibe keeping so much of it unknown. Still today for many people, frustration and lack of proper understanding of its operation. No profiles produced by SimXperience, no attempt to teach people how to build or make good profiles.

I dont have to agree with BV, on all he says. Yet I can respect him for what he did achieve but I don't need to drop to name calling or slandering and making personal attacks. I dont need to be accused of potential reverse engineering of his software neither doing nothing wrong in connecting a soundcard output into a Digital Audio Interface.

Did I go beyond the average user and seek to understand Simvibe, yeah and likely more than most but not to spite the guy but to learn stuff about it as their was nothing detailed on its effects and operation. Like I said Im an enthusiast, we like to experiment...

As for i-racing, I was not banned from i-racing forums whatsoever. You have no right to say such false statement....

I just never played it much and even to this day havn't. Few people were interested in messing around with tactile @ iracing back then as most seemed happy to just go with budget options and were satisfied enough with them. Im not a dedicated racer and more of a casual gamer, so i-racing is hardly best suited for me.

Soundcards.....
Trust me when I tell you that different sound-cards have a good variation in the amplitude and signal strength they output. Just as using XLR and balanced cables is better than a $2 RCA off ebay. I know this as I can monitor the outputs directly on equipment and professional audio DAW software. Their is a BIG difference from . one end of the spectrum to the other. An Asus Essence compared to a 10$ USB soundcard in the intensity of their output are not similar.

Is it a big factor for the average user, not really as the person can increase the volume on an amp to compensate but the point you missed then, as you seem to still is that some people want "little gains were possible" to use "better" hardware options not just whats average. To them that care, its important. To those that don't, then it doesn't matter.

I have no problem with people buying an SMSL amp and set of Pucs with $30 soundcard. If they enjoy it, fair play to them. Its a different thing to say, buying better isnt any or much better. Just like BV says their isn't much performance difference with the majority of tactile. Something again him/I clash on, as its not what I personally have felt and experienced for myself.

Hes entitled to his opinion, Im entitled to mine, just as you are to yours


A while back I decided to stop posting here much and on other forums as I was spending too much time reading or responding to posts. I only really bother now with Race Department forums but yes still try to chat about tactile, help others and seek to push enjoyment of it beyond the norm.

Take Care
 
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