TGT or CSL
- Thread starter Twstcrv
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- 5,051
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Whatever dude you are the one bantering. You read what you want. I’m almost certain your a Trump supporter.
Just To clear it once and for all:
GTS 7 point adjustment isn’t wheel sensitivity it is FFB sensitivity. The 108 wheel sensitivity (or 1080 degrees) means the degrees of rotation. These two have no corralation with each other. That was the only thing I was trying to point out. And you can quote me on this!
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- 94
- Maumee OH
Those peddles are worth every bit of 500$. The damper works great with the heavier spring on the throttle and on a 1 or 2 setting. You can adjust the travel and damping effect on the brake and the throttle. You have to be careful with the damper kit on the throttle when adjusting the throttle travel or the peddle motor bracket will hit the damper kit. I adjusted it to within 1/16 of the damper kit and that allows for full travel.
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Mounted a set of these, have you? Seereus, did you find them hard to mount?
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As if bringing politics in isnt intended to offend..
- 5,051
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You just missed the Black Friday deal! 40% off!Sweet looking pedals đź‘Ť. In my country the price is very prohibitive for these kind of pedals.
View attachment 696674
$1,030 AUD with the accessories.
gt_fan
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- gt_fan
- GT3Fan
They were on the Black Friday sale recently for A$499.Sweet looking pedals đź‘Ť. In my country the price is very prohibitive for these kind of pedals
View attachment 696674
$1,030 AUD with the accessories.
- 94
- Maumee OH
For that price I think I'd be happy with the elite peddle with load cell, lol! peddles mounted:tup:Sweet looking pedals đź‘Ť. In my country the price is very prohibitive for these kind of pedals
View attachment 696674
$1,030 AUD with the accessories.
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- 94
- Maumee OH
These peddles are 26 lbs, as long as you have four mounting points and a very sturdy mounting plate it should be good. Fanatic must have made significant improvements to the mounting of the wheel base and the semi quick connect wheel. The wheel flex I've seen in reviews isn't present on my install and neither is the movement in the base with only using 2 mounting bolts, it's as firm as the T-GT was.
- 5,051
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26lb=11.7 kilogram. That is some heavy gear. No way I can mount that in my current setup. Might have to go for the csl or standard csp v3 pedals.
Wheel flex never concerned me with my former wheels. Most of the flex you don’t notice while driving. I was curious if you had to change the FEI settings in game? Or just use the default?
- 94
- Maumee OH
I'm not sure if the game is communicating the wheel rotation correctly in GT sport so I'm going to set it to 900 manually and see. There is an on center problem, but as long as you keep your hand on the wheel you can help center issue. I have force feedback at 100. I'm gonna mess with the in game ffb and sensitivity. I can't believe what a difference the load cell makes. I always have plenty of brake peddle left over. This Fanatec setup just feels very sensitive so far, I need more time on the game.
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- 94
- Maumee OH
As far as noise goes the wheel is very quiet no cogging even when there's the off-center issue it's very quiet just forceful.
- 5,051
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Thanks! For the record I meant:
I might buy a csl in 2018 and compare them for myself. I am happy with my current setup. But not sure which ecosystem I want to invest further in. That McLaren gt3 Rim is a gamechanger for me. Thrustmaster is reluctant to updating that awfull Ferrari f1 rim.
- 94
- Maumee OH
The usb cord that comes with the csl is not usb 3.0 compatible does that make a difference? It's only 2.0.
Gt3 mclaren rim
Gt3 mclaren rim
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Good question
Good question and good catch. I couldnt find in manual usb requirement, but getting my firmware to update took a few tries. I thought it might be my outdated mac but it could have been the cord now that u mention it. Since it came with it, any issues, current or future would be on Fanatec I assume.
This is what I was referring to yesterday w sensitivity. I have found 55-65 to be the sweet spot for me in gr3 and 4 cars. FEI might help w on center. Default is 50, (from manual) but don’t forget about the blog on the fanatec website. He recommends starting at 100. Mine is set at 50 and is fine but I may try it lower tonight to see if my very slight on center knock goes completely away, at say 40.
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- 5,051
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USB is always backward compatible, that is the beauty of USB. We are old enough to remember all these different connections for peripherals! Those days were a pain! People have it easy now!
The FFB sensitivity in GT sport :
“Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to the driver through their tyres. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. When this value is lower, steering becomes gentler when driving in a straight line. Increasing or decreasing these values allows you to adjust the controls to suit your driving style.”
Changing sensitivity on wheel is changing the rotation or wheel ratio. So 55-65 means 550-650 degrees. Approx 1.5+ rotation lock to lock. (1 full rotation=360)
A Porsche 911 has 900 degrees of rotation.
As a general rule as in real life (may vary):
Road/sports/race cars: 2.5 to 3 rotations (900-1080 or 90/108)
Rally cars/DTM/ GT spec: 1.5 - 2 rotations (540-720 or 54-72)
Open wheel/ formula cars: 0,5 - 1 rotation (270-360 or 18-36)
Edit: 180 was incorrect.
It all depends on user preference and track of course. For the hairpin in Monaco full lock is about 360 so the driver doesn’t need to let go of steering wheel with full lock. But a longer track, with fast corners like spa will need 360+.
All popular games like F1 2017, assetto corsa, project cars, GT sport etc. will change these settings automatically from car to car when you leave it in the default settings. For each wheel brand the default settings are:
Logitech 900 (which CSL is emulating)
Thrustmaster 900 (max 1080) pc driver
Fanatec ???dont know, but default auto setting should already be set in pc driver.
Feel free of course to deviate from above values.
The on center problem is because the Logitech wheels have a deadzone in the middle. Whilst modern wheels don’t. This should be fixed when proper sdk is implemented.
Disclaimer to Twstcrv: I don’t mean the setting is bad or good. Just telling what it does. Please don’t read into anything that isn’t there.
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- Maumee OH
Where is the setting for allow game to set rotation of degrees, is it already set by default on the CSL. I don't see that option on the CSL software. I'm assuming it's just set to that by default. So I should leave it at 1080 since the game should regulate it anyway thanks for clearing that up for me. Is the Logitech G29 having that same on Center issue?
- 5,051
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Don’t own a csl. But I believe it is the “sens” setting in the wheel menu. The game will set automatically if you have it on off or auto? I looked at manual and it does say it has off/auto setting for sensitivity?? Can’t confirm this though. So best if you look at the online manual.
https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSL E Racing Wheel PS4-Manual-EN.pdf?utm_medium=FAP+Banner&utm_source=gtplanet&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
The G29 has a deadzone of about 1-2 cm with no FFB. So on center you feel no FFB. The theory that was posted by someone else on the forum is because the csl is simulating a G29, the signal pushed to the csl does not factor in that this wheel has no deadzone. Some games like pcars let you set an deadzone in the settings of the game. GTsport doesn’t have this setting. I remember CSW wheels do have deadzone settings in the wheel tuning menu, but I believe the csl doesn’t. But there are tweaks you can do, like lower FFB like @Twstcrv recommended to eliminate some of that on center issue. But again I can not confirm personally.
Hope it helps!
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Confirmed
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Confirmed.
- 94
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On center issue all but gone completely with a few minor of in-game and wheel adjustments. In GT Sport the force feedback sensitivity is set to one this pretty much eliminates The on center issue unless your hands are completely off the wheel and it is so slight it only takes a finger to stop it. There is a drift setting on the wheel which allows you to regulate how impactful the increment of moving the wheel is. A lower setting makes it much more slower as the higher setting makes it much quicker, it comes default set to - 5. The amount of adjustability on this wheel is awesome, and with five different setting profiles you can switch to one or the other depending on which game you're playing on the fly. So I have specific wheel rotations already set up for all 5 profiles depending on what car I'm driving, my favorite is 520 degrees.
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Only downside is you lose detail in the FFB. But shouldn’t be an issue if you like to drive with low ffb anyways. Apparantly aliens like to drive with minimal ffb anyways.
Having too many settings would be a con for me. Used to like overclocking, tweaking, modding etc. used to spend hours upon hours to get the maximum performance out of my gear. Now I just want plug and play. But I was happy to have found out default settings work really good too.
- 94
- Maumee OH
I still have the in game ffb torque set at five, and it's a lot. I'm not sure exactly what I'm loosing turning the ffb sensitivity down to one. I had it at eight with the T-GT.
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Having these settings so easily accessible on the wheel is amazing. Its like somebody said about load cell brakes. “Once you’ve tried it, theres no going back.” I tried 520 like you said and it totally tighened up the steering rack on the m4 I was driving. I cant imagine not having this option now.
There is a reason why aliens like ffb low..and having a wheel with no adjustments sounds boring to me now.Similar threads
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