The biking thread

Are fitbits accurate?
A heart rate strap is the most accurate but a Fitbit is definitely accurate enough. I tend to just use my Garmin Fenix now instead a strap purely for comfort.

Checking your pulse yourself while exercising is going to be hit and miss, I don't think your heart rate is staying that low.
For reference my resting HR is 45 and max around 185 (age plays a part for the upper level) and I struggle for my HR to not reach 100 on the bike even at lower effort levels.

@Eunos_Cosmo has covered all pretty well and I agree for sure there is an issue with the data, whether it's power or HR I'd start with the HR.
 
Stopped of at Kaze HQ on my morning cruise to get some new bar tape fitted. What a boost in motivation such a simple product brings.

At the end of last year I bought a new saddle, that was enough to get me back on my bike. Now I’ve started sprucing it up (it’s been stock since I bought it some years back) I think I’ll gradually add upgrades when necessary. #moneypit

Monday is my little girl’s third birthday and she wants a bike. We’re off to Decathlon this afternoon to let her pick one out. Super exciting day for us.
 
Monday is my little girl’s third birthday and she wants a bike. We’re off to Decathlon this afternoon to let her pick one out. Super exciting day for us.
This is excellent, no matter how I tried I couldn't really get either of my boys into cycling.

You know what really sucks.
Busting your arse going up a climb for about 8km only to be held up by row of cars when it's supposed to be reward time bombing it down the other side of the climb
 
This is excellent, no matter how I tried I couldn't really get either of my boys into cycling.

You know what really sucks.
Busting your arse going up a climb for about 8km only to be held up by row of cars when it's supposed to be reward time bombing it down the other side of the climb
That’s a typical decent on my local mountain at peak times. The way up is also the way down. There’s a tourist attraction at the top so there’s usually intermittent traffic that can’t be easily overtaken on the way down since it’s a twisty mountain. During the week nights, however, there’s a good chance of a clean run.
 
This is excellent, no matter how I tried I couldn't really get either of my boys into cycling.

You know what really sucks.
Busting your arse going up a climb for about 8km only to be held up by row of cars when it's supposed to be reward time bombing it down the other side of the climb
I can sympathize with you on both counts.

I've tried several times to get my girls into cycling, but no they both say they hate it :(
Tried to get them new bikes when they outgrew their old ones but there simply not interested stating that its boring and too hard...

And I've got a cat 5 hill right at the end of most of my rides that now has had the speed limit reduced to 30mph on the descent so I'm often stuck behind cars on the brakes :(
 
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The heart rate monitor I bought was just delivered and, thankfully, paired with the bike on its own. I'll head downstairs in a bit for a proper ride.

I should probably redo that 20 minute test I tried and failed since it adjusts the watts based on heart rate and if you don't have a heart rate, it just keeps going higher and higher. :lol: If nothing else, doing that test today will be a good baseline for where I'm at and hopefully show improvement in the future.
 
TB
The heart rate monitor I bought was just delivered and, thankfully, paired with the bike on its own. I'll head downstairs in a bit for a proper ride.

I should probably redo that 20 minute test I tried and failed since it adjusts the watts based on heart rate and if you don't have a heart rate, it just keeps going higher and higher. :lol: If nothing else, doing that test today will be a good baseline for where I'm at and hopefully show improvement in the future.
If it's available, the ramp test I think is a really good benchmark. It takes pacing completely out of the picture - 20 minute threshold tests are really hard. Hard because of the effort but also hard to stay focused and not either overdo it at the start or leave too much on the table. With the ramp test, you just mash the gas pedal to the floor until you can't anymore. Last time I did one it was over in like 8 minutes. A brutal 8 minutes to be sure, but better than 20! - and I know that I emptied the tank on it.

My bike has officially shipped from Ribble HQ. Now I need water bottles, water bottle cages (gotta be Ti) and a new head unit mount so I don't have to swap that between bikes. Really, really pumped.

In other news, I think I finally have a working bike carrier setup for the Porsche. I'll post pictures when I get all the hardware together, but it seems like it's going to work! I'll be limited to fair-weather rides because the top has to be down, but it's better than being stuck always choosing routes near me.
 
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If it's available, the ramp test I think is a really good benchmark. It takes pacing completely out of the picture - 20 minute threshold tests are really hard. Hard because of the effort but also hard to stay focused and not either overdo it at the start or leave too much on the table. With the ramp test, you just mash the gas pedal to the floor until you can't anymore. Last time I did one it was over in like 8 minutes. A brutal 8 minutes to be sure, but better than 20! - and I know that I emptied the tank on it.
I have a ton of tests I can run. I'll look through them and find a ramp test. 👍

My bike has officially shipped from Ribble HQ. Now I need water bottles, water bottle cages (gotta be Ti) and a new head unit mount so I don't have to swap that between bikes. Really, really pumped.
Fantastic!
 
Are heart rate monitors or cadence sensors worth it?

I can get a cadence sensor for relatively cheap but I’ve always cycled on instinct, and then checked Strava for the stats. I had a bike computer years ago but that was just to maintain consistent speed.
 
Just one more quick question about my stationary bike training- how important is staying within a certain RPM range?
Heart rate etc. aside, I really prefer to have high resistance settings with low RPM like around 50-60, rather than light settings with high RPM like 80+. Is my training less effective if watts/hour power output stays the same? Has one benefits over the other?
 
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Are heart rate monitors or cadence sensors worth it?

I can get a cadence sensor for relatively cheap but I’ve always cycled on instinct, and then checked Strava for the stats. I had a bike computer years ago but that was just to maintain consistent speed.
I suppose it depends on how much feedback you want from the data. If speed is "good enough", stick with that. If you're curious about monitors and sensors and they won't break the bank (my HRM was $20), I'd at least try them.

- - - - -

I don't know how many tests I tried before I finally found one that would adjust the watts automatically based on heart rate but that's what I'll use for my baseline in the future. The handful of 4 minute tests I did probably didn't help me out any.

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I started at 50 watts (I'll make that at least 75 because cadence sucks with the resistance that low) and it went up 25 every 2 minutes as long as the heart rate wasn't above 170. I ended up at 175 watts at the 8 minute point. I'm not sure if the test is supposed to end after 10 minutes or if it stopped because the heart rate was at 180. Again, if nothing else it's a starting point.
 
The graph makes it look like you hit 900w for 2 mins :bowdown:

@W3H5
I think HR is a more useful metric than cadence for a couple reasons but mainly HR gives you a relative gauge of how hard you are working. Once you get a sense for it, you can pretty effectively pace yourself with it. Like I know I can maintain 160bpm for a long time. 180bpm for 20-30 mins. 190+ and I'll be seeing red really soon. It also gives you a pretty good idea if you are really tired...if your HR just isn't going up like it should, you probably need a day off.

Cadence I don't think is all that useful in comparison. Unless you have a crazy rear cassette, chances are that on steep climbs, choosing a preferred cadence is not an option. You'll be in your lowest gear spinning whatever is needed to stay upright. When you do have the option to switch gears and change your cadence, you'll probably default to one that is comfortable to you, cadence measurement or not.

@Michael88
50-60rpm is a very very low cadence. I'd guess that you won't get a whole lot of aerobic benefit out of spinning that slowly. It's also hard on your knees and your feet (though probably not as hard as power-lifting :lol: ) . I'd try to get up to at least 75rpm even if its just in short spurts. Apparently low cadence (for the same power) uses up a lot of carbohydrates whereas high cadence uses up more fat, for what it's worth. Ultimately, high cadence is more sustainable for cylists because it's easier on the skeletal-muscle system and the cardio system recovers faster than the muscular system, which is why you typically see pros spinning fast.
 
The graph makes it look like you hit 900w for 2 mins
The rest is straightforward but I'm not exactly sure how to read that part of the test. You've already mentioned that the watts might not be right and for this test I peaked at what it said was 175 watts for those last 2 minutes so I'm wondering if that graph isn't some kind of cumulative watts.

Regardless of what it is, it will be a good benchmark for how I'm improving.
 
water bottle cages (gotta be Ti)
If you don't mind spending a bit have a look at these, I have them on my bike and have never had a bottle jump out, Also as the blurb says they don't mark your bottles much at all.

@TB I think you are correct in it being cumulative. 900 watts for two minutes is huge.

 
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@TB I think you are correct in it being cumulative. 900 watts for two minutes is huge.


I came across that video looking for information on the Monark because it's the same one I bought, or at least the same line (I have the LC6, they also have a 4 and a 7). :P I'm pretty sure I'd have problems maintaining 200 watts right now, but that will come with more seat time.

Also, those poor handlebars!
 
TB
I came across that video looking for information on the Monark because it's the same one I bought, or at least the same line (I have the LC6, they also have a 4 and a 7). :P I'm pretty sure I'd have problems maintaining 200 watts right now, but that will come with more seat time.

Also, those poor handlebars!
I'd hazard a guess if that dude didn't tear the bike apart it should last and serve you well. :D
 
I know I haven't ridden in over a year but I swear this exercise bike is harder on me than my road bike. I left it at 125 watts until I hit 180bpm and it only took me 20 minutes. :crazy:

Capture.PNG


Everything stayed pretty even for the 20 minutes, at least.
 
If you don't mind spending a bit have a look at these, I have them on my bike and have never had a bottle jump out, Also as the blurb says they don't mark your bottles much at all.

@TB I think you are correct in it being cumulative. 900 watts for two minutes is huge.


I'm not seeing a link there.

So I bought some misc hardware today so I could test fit my DIY bike mount on the Boxster. It works! I'm not thrilled about the clamp-fork mount interface (fork mount has 1/4" holes, clamps have 3/8" holes), so I might try to find a better hardware solution there. For now, it works with these weird cap bolts I found at home depot. But provided the bolts don't back out (I did use lock washers) this setup is sturdy. Last bit I need is a suction cup mount for the rear tire for stability and to elevate the big ring a little bit more off the paintwork...it's currently about 1/4" from the clamshell! :nervous: Should be better on the gravel bike with it's smaller front chainring. Then I'll get some sort of rubber tie thing to make sure the pedals don't move around in the wind. Overall, I think it's going to work well. I just have to commit to being top down while transporting the bike. Thankfully, I can move the mount out of the way of the top so I can put the top up when I'm riding. Install was pretty easy after I found all the parts I think I needed and removed the central rollbar padding and wind deflector, both of which can easily be re-installed.

IMG_20220130_163908.jpg

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So I did a local loop near my house on Saturday, about 30 miles. Coming up near the top of a kind of infamous hill (infamous for being dangerous) there was a lot of traffic at a total standstill. I rode up the shoulder past the cars and came to the scene of an accident. All anyone knew was that a car had hit a cyclist from behind. There was still a saddle-mount water bottle cage on the ground with a red light on it still flashing. Found out today that this was a fatality accident. The cyclist was riding fully in the shoulder and the car swerved into him for unknown reasons. Really bummed, really sad, and a little shaken...I was maybe 20 mins away from being in the same spot at the same time.

I'm glad I have a gravel bike coming soon...too many distracted drivers out there.
 
So I did a local loop near my house on Saturday, about 30 miles. Coming up near the top of a kind of infamous hill (infamous for being dangerous) there was a lot of traffic at a total standstill. I rode up the shoulder past the cars and came to the scene of an accident. All anyone knew was that a car had hit a cyclist from behind. There was still a saddle-mount water bottle cage on the ground with a red light on it still flashing. Found out today that this was a fatality accident. The cyclist was riding fully in the shoulder and the car swerved into him for unknown reasons. Really bummed, really sad, and a little shaken...I was maybe 20 mins away from being in the same spot at the same time.

I'm glad I have a gravel bike coming soon...too many distracted drivers out there.
So sad. That's the only thing that puts me off cycling, somedays with people passing me so close I feel that one day my time may come.
 
Unless it's a medical condition it's normally, not paying ****ing attention while driving.
Good chance a phone is involved, you simply don't swerve and run a cyclist over while paying attention.

Really pisses me off.
This is actually the second time in as many visits to this hill that I've seen a bicycle wreck. Motivated me to do something about it so I set about coming up with a way to bypass the hill entirely via an old/disused railroad right of way that is nearby. Put together a diagram and sent it to the local bicycle advocacy group. Not sure it will go anywhere, but it's worth trying.

WHITES HILL BYPASS.jpg
 
So good news! My bike has shipped from Ribble and is currently enroute to Los Angeles.

Bad News: I've been slammed with a $485 import duty - that's 16%! Funny how there was no mention of this possibility when I bought the bike. So frustrated by this process. I don't think I can recommend anyone outside of England buying a bike from Ribble.
 
Update on this - I now know why the import duty was so high. Either DHL or Ribble gave the value of the bike in GBP but used the actual value I paid, in USD, without converting the currency. So basically they inflated the declared value by approximately $1,000...which is a 30% increase! :banghead::banghead:
 
Update on this - I now know why the import duty was so high. Either DHL or Ribble gave the value of the bike in GBP but used the actual value I paid, in USD, without converting the currency. So basically they inflated the declared value by approximately $1,000...which is a 30% increase! :banghead::banghead:
I would make a claim... You could get the import free or reduced at least... ✌️
 
On a scale of 1 to Schwalbe my new slick tyres were about a 5 to install. I’ve gone down from 28mm to 25. Yet to test them outside of my neighbourhood but they don’t seem to have made to ride harder despite being at 100psi compared to my previous 85-90psi.
They were cheap so I’m not expecting miracles or long life but I’ve still got the Continentals that just came off in case I need them.
 

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