The biking thread
- Thread starter Bram Turismo
- 4,900 comments
- 271,071 views
ExigeEvan
Premium
- 17,192
In terms of the Carrera TDF, if she can afford to wait until a bank holiday/august/Tour de France, she can probably get a better deal.
The chainset on the b'Twin is a massive benefit. Personally, I don't think carbon fibre is ideal for a first bike/beater. CF is a very strong, but brittle material, and when it fails it shatters. It'll take quite a lot of abuse for that to happen but I don't fancy snapping my front fork in a pot-hole or drain.
The B'Twin comes with a 2 year guarantee and the fork steerer is aluminium if that makes a difference http://www.btwincycle.com/EN/triban-3-170478497/#infos-techniques
According to "the internet" there are cases of carbon forks snapping in a crash or severe impact but there also seems to cases of steel and aluminium forks snapping too. I guess it depends on how well they are made as much as the material so didn't want to rule a bargain out unnecessarily. 👍
- 388
- Edinburgh
- daft_biker
FWIW I've snapped a steel fork....hopped up some steps at school sideways, tried to 180 hop at the top but over balanced on landing and ended up landing on my side at the bottom with my feel still clipped in. It only snapped on one side though so I still rode it home:tup:
That was back in the days when Tomac was riding with a Tioga diskdrive and Diamond Back were cool.....things have hopefully moved on a little since then
Naturally the above was performed in front of high school girls just to add insult to injury and a broken bike
- 3,915
- California
- gdwest1
I ran across this YouTube video, and it's something ALL bikers should enjoy. Wheather you know this guy or you are this guy 
Not Posting it directly in the forum to avoid a modsmack on the title...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMCkuqL9IcM&feature=share
Cheers!
Not Posting it directly in the forum to avoid a modsmack on the title...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMCkuqL9IcM&feature=share
Cheers!
ExigeEvan
Premium
- 17,192
Which is why I gave it as little weighting as I felt I could. CF gives very little notice of failure except maybe a small hairline crack. An alloy is far more likely to deflect (giving notice of brake rub, bearing noise, handling issues) before fatigue failure.
That's not to say I'd never buy a CF bike, just not on one I was happy to abuse.
- 388
- Edinburgh
- daft_biker
I once bought a bike with a carbon section in the swingarm (Coyote XC2) for the sole purpose of abusing it! Most of the components on it were cheap or stuff I had lying about and I got the frame and fork for sweeties.....it was just a bike that begged to be thrashed. Fling it into a corner and it would flex then ping you out the other side in a way that steel frames could only dream of.
I did have some carbon bars a while ago but they snapped. My Race Face carbon cranks are still going strong though (and still feel super stiff).
Only time I've ever ridden a carbon hardtail was for a 24hour enduro and it was 🤬 horrible. Wish I'd ridden an alu frame bike even if it was heavier - it wasn't a race
No idea about road bikes though
boiltheocean
Premium
- 7,756
- Samoa
Carbon is the way forward. This is about the same weight as my Yeti, possibly a little lighter.
Last night I successfully fitted a new headset using a block of wood and a small mallet then completed stripped my suspension forks, replaced the o-rings, removed a spacer to increase their travel and reassembled them with new oil all without mishap. This level of competency is very unusual for me!
Whoever I bought the forks from was a complete knob though as there was no oil in the lowers or the upper on the air side and even though they're only meant to be torqued to 7Nm the top caps were so tight I thought I wasn't going to get them off. Also in the process of taking them apart I've been able to identify they are the 2005 model which is some way off them being advertised at 2008 but the design has hardly changed so it's not a big problem
Hopefully they'll be a huge improvement when I get out on it over the weekend and I didn't waste my time faffing about.
Whoever I bought the forks from was a complete knob though as there was no oil in the lowers or the upper on the air side and even though they're only meant to be torqued to 7Nm the top caps were so tight I thought I wasn't going to get them off. Also in the process of taking them apart I've been able to identify they are the 2005 model which is some way off them being advertised at 2008 but the design has hardly changed so it's not a big problem
Hopefully they'll be a huge improvement when I get out on it over the weekend and I didn't waste my time faffing about.
- 30,033
- Thailand
Got some awesome pics of my uphill trek from today which I will post later when I'm not so tired. There are some in my Rumble Strip thread but more of a write up than a photo collection.
That's about it from one knackered biker,
That's about it from one knackered biker,
- 2,095
- Norwich, UK
- madmike1986
After a loooooong break from riding I am now back in the saddle, I fitted my winter rubbers:
I have noticed that since sitting stationary for 6weeks the forks now make a kind of squelching noise, what's that about?
I also fitted the new Mech Hanger:
And after further rummaging through my garage found a heap of spare rubbers:
Also found this gorgeous Goodridge Braided brake hose
Shame it doesn't match my bike's colour scheme
I have noticed that since sitting stationary for 6weeks the forks now make a kind of squelching noise, what's that about?
I also fitted the new Mech Hanger:
And after further rummaging through my garage found a heap of spare rubbers:
Also found this gorgeous Goodridge Braided brake hose
Shame it doesn't match my bike's colour scheme
- 388
- Edinburgh
- daft_biker
I also fitted the new Mech Hanger:
Is it just me or does that mech hanger look like a polar bear?
- 5,184
- Phoenix, AZ
- nitrorocks
Nice bike
I also fitted the new Mech Hanger:
Is it just me or does that mech hanger look like a polar bear?
Not just a polar bear but a baby polar bear!!!
Mike - the oil might be a bit thicker because it's cold, try reducing the rebound damping or see if it stops after a ride. If not and the forks aren't working smooth it might be time for a service.
- 38,949
- Application hell
- MP-Omnis
So... my tires are flat. Not flat-- it's still ridable, but they lost a lot of air.
What I do now? Is it possible to get new high-psi tubes but still keep the old rubber? Or should I get both new? I mean, I'm just going to refill it when it needs it but I'd like to know what would be the best thing to do down the line.
What I do now? Is it possible to get new high-psi tubes but still keep the old rubber? Or should I get both new? I mean, I'm just going to refill it when it needs it but I'd like to know what would be the best thing to do down the line.
- 30,033
- Thailand
Do you mean your tyres are out of thread or your tubes are funked, Omnis?
If it's the tube you could easily have a new one in there in no time, if it's the tyre that could be a little more expensive but still not a mojor issue.
New tubes with the same tyres should be fine as long as the bike shop give you the right ones.
Tyres will lose air over time, even my slicks went from 110psi to 95psi in a few months. They're also high pressure road tyres.
If it's the tube you could easily have a new one in there in no time, if it's the tyre that could be a little more expensive but still not a mojor issue.
New tubes with the same tyres should be fine as long as the bike shop give you the right ones.
Tyres will lose air over time, even my slicks went from 110psi to 95psi in a few months. They're also high pressure road tyres.
- 2,095
- Norwich, UK
- madmike1986
Is it just me or does that mech hanger look like a polar bear?
Lol, yeah I can see that
If that's directed at me, thanks 👍
If not, go to hell!
Joking
Cool, well i'm going for a ride friday night I think so I shall see how they do, they still work ok when I put weight on them so hopefully they are alright
That's perfectly normal Omnis, simply test is just to pump them up again, leave overnight and check pressure in the morning, my bet is they are fine.
My bike was left for around 6 weeks and both tyres were virtually flat, pumped them back up and hey presto!
Omnis - Ditto what others have said, just pump them up and if they deflate overnight replace the inner tubes. You could try and find the puncture but it's not always easy with a slow one and a new tube is cheap. Just make sure there is nothing sharp poking through to the inside of the tyre and the rim tape on your wheel covers the spokes and any sharp edges. It might be a good idea to carry a spare tube and mini pump with you if you're riding far, there's nothing worse than walking your bike home....well there is but it still sucks.
Slightly long video for a simple job but have a watch if you want.
Slightly long video for a simple job but have a watch if you want.
I can't fix punctures either 
I follow the instructions, leave it to dry for ages and carefully peel the plastic backing off but as soon as it gets any pressure in it air gets past the patch!
Park Tool self adhesive patches are meant to be good...I should probably get some.
I follow the instructions, leave it to dry for ages and carefully peel the plastic backing off but as soon as it gets any pressure in it air gets past the patch!Park Tool self adhesive patches are meant to be good...I should probably get some.
- 388
- Edinburgh
- daft_biker
boiltheocean
Premium
- 7,756
- Samoa
I always scratch the surface of the tube with some sandpaper, it generally clears all the junk on the tube and gives the glue a little more to hold on to. Never had a patch fail on me though.
