http://www.modelenium.co.uk/models/models.aspx?Search=forklift
But I didn't check scales for you.
I thought that VW was a real car. I really did!
So did I when I saw the result. But yes bush is a dead give away.
Ok so how did I get to the results posted earlier.
The scene:
1. It's winter and there is crappy weather - not much natural light coming in to the room where I set up the shot. Result time shoots up by seconds.
2. Using a low(ish) ISO value gives very good quality pictures but your time increases by a factor 2 compared to ISO 400 and by a factor 4 when using ISO 800.
3. Small aperture - to get a lot of DoF, but that too increases time.
4. because of 1,2 & 3 a tripod was used.
In general I use the lowest possible ISO value I can get away with. I do this as I regularly print my photographs 30/45 cm and the largest ever printed
was 180 by 120 cm (6/4 feet) AND I hate grain (except in black and white).
The 'set up' shot was taken days later.
For those that have made it so far in reading this ...
Some tech stuff.
Your camera works out a proper exposure based on 3 items. ISO, Aperture & Time (Shutter-speed).
If you set your camera to Auto everything you have
no creative control over how it records the end result. You need to learn what the other settings do.
Yeah but I already hate school and learning and stuff. Well ..... TOUGH!
This may be scary at first but once you get the hang of it you will never go back again. That dial can rotate - check your manual if you don't believe me.
The difference between two full values is referred to as a stop (of light) and applies to Aperture, Time & ISO.
For ISO
Common values are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600
Of course there are intermediate, higher and lower values available too but for the purpose of this discussion I'm leaving them out.
ISO 100 -> 200 equals 1 stop
ISO 200 -> 400 equals 1 stop
ISO 100 -> 400 equals 2 stops
ISO 100 -> 800 equals 3 stops
ISO 200 -> 50 equals 2 stops
An increase in ISO increases the 'graininess' (is that English?) in your photograph.
For Aperture (Av on Canon):
Common values are 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22
Av 2.8 -> 4.0 equals 1 stop
AV 11 -> 2.8 equals 4 stops
The higher the Apt value the smaller the aperture. It may sound strange but that is because long ago they dropped the
1/22,
1/2.8 part
as there wasn't enough room on lenses to print that .... and Apt 22 is easier to say than Apt 1 divided by 22.
Examples
A fire hose = large Aperture (e.g. 2.8)
A garden hose = small aperture (e.g. 16)
Hello, you still there........ good read on.
For Time (Tv on Canon):
(limited list) Common values are 4, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4 ..... 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 seconds.
Tv 4s ->2s equals 1 stop
Tv 2s -> 4s equals 1 stop
Tv 1/30 -> 1/60 equals 1 stop
Tv 1/30 -> 1/1000 sec equals 4 stops
Rule of thumb: If your shutter speed drops below 1/'focal length' of your lens (when handholding your camera)
a> don't shoot
b> use a tripod
c> amend Aperture or ISO.
1 divided by wut??? The focal length of your lens. Your lens is the nifty fifty.. ok so don't go below 1/50 second (1/60 on your camera settings)
You are using a badass 500mm lens, don't drop below 1/500 second.
An example of that can be found
here scroll down to pic #8.
[/self sponsoring]
Get it?!
Example setting:
You manually dialled in ISO 200 on you camera BUT set the rest to Auto everything (the green square on Canon dial)
It a nice day outside and your model is in nicely lit environment and your camera tells you that with ISO 200 it will use Av 2.8 and 1/2000th second.
(This is just an example!!!)
Result a correctly exposed photo but a
crappy small depth of field, just about everything is unsharp except where your focussed.
In this case your model is a female and you focussed on her eyes - she will love the result, its very pleasing.
But hold on ... we're shooting model cars!
Oops, ok shoot again same settings as above and focus on the A pillar. Result your A pillar is sharp and the rest is unsharp.
Ok so don't bother uploading it in this thread, it's better off in the "guess this car" thread instead.
To get more sharpness in your picture you need to move away from the 'auto everything' setting. Yes I know it's scary but give it a try.
Focus on the A pillar again but now dial in a smaller aperture (remember we started on 2.8), try something in the middle like f5.6 or f8
(yeah that's the proper way of writing it) and take a picture. Do it again but now with a small aperture e.g f16 or f22.
Keep your focus point on the A pillar DO NOT MOVE IT!!!!.
Now compare the f2.8, f8 and f22 shots. See how they are all properly exposed (given that it didn't cloud over between pictures).
Notice the sharpness change in your pictures. f22 sharpness > f2.8 sharpness.
You still here?
Ok, good.
Given the above you started with
ISO 200 and the camera set Apt to 2.8 and speed to 1/2000.
You rotated the dial to Aperture priority, Congratulations and dialled in
Apt f8, lo and behold the camera worked out it now needed to decrease the speed to 1/250th of a second.
For your 3rd photo
You dialled in Apt f22, lo and behold the camera worked out it now needed to decrease the speed to 1/125th of a second.
Every full stop you change (in Apt, Time of ISO) you either halve or Double the amount of light that will reach the sensor.
Given that your camera was happy with ISO 200 f2.8 and 1/2000th second YOU can interfere and change this to the same amount of light but increase DoF.
So from f2.8 to f8 is +3 stops, your camera will decrease time by three stops 1/2000 to 1/1000 to 1/500 to 1/250 is -3 stops.
Result SAME amount of light reaches the sensor but you have gained DoF.
Congratulations 👍👍 to you if you now grasp this explanation.
DoF
Depth of Field is controlled by three things (yes all good stuff comes in threes)
1. Distance to subject - (your girlfriend or your (future) Mother in law
2. Aperture - hosepipe, garden hose
3. Focal length of your lens nifty fifty or the 500mm prime
Yeah, but
what is DoF? It is the amount of acceptable sharpness you can see in a photograph.
The closer you get to your subject the less amount of acceptable sharpness you get in your photo.
The larger your aperture (f2.8) the less sharpness you get.
The longer the lens used the less sharpness you get.
For the Golf I had a 28-70mm zoom lens set to 57mm on a 1.3 crop Canon.
Given that I picked f22 as my aperture the amount of sharpness this resulted in was between 20cm in front of my focus point and 32 cm behind my focus point.
I probably could have used f11 and still get away with what I wanted.
So back to my Golf. I didn't have a lot of time to experiment and I will do so over the Xmas holidays and I just shot a couple of pictures at various Apertures.
I liked the f18 f22 shots and posted these on the web. I unfortunately deleted the others otherwise I would have posted these up here to clarify further.
I may do that at a later date, and I'll see if I can also get my 'greenery' a bit more out of focus too.
In conclusion, if you've made it this far and I have not confused you go forth and
multiply ...... shoot some more pictures, focus on one point and vary your aperture.
E.g.
Focus on
1 spot, shoot at f2.8, f8 and f22 and compare the results. No need to use ALL available apertures. You can always shoot again within a smaller range
to get the right amount of sharpness you're looking for.
P.S. Why focus on the A pillar - well its roughly 1/3 down the length of your car and there will be front and rear sharpness encompassing your car measured from your focus point. Why bother getting 1/3 sharpness in front of the headlamp...... you see?