The Photo Club - Street Photography

[Speedster502]

I'll contribute a bit to this one. Motorsports are probably my favourite thing to shoot, it's great fun and you get a full day's worth of entertainment at the same time. As a car fan I can't think of a better way to spend a Saturday or Sunday, apart from if its raining...in which case then it's a different story Motorsport in the UK is great, there are tonnes of tracks from ovals such as Rockingham, country tracks like Cadwell Park, Rallies on airfields and in woods, drag strips for...well drag racing, serious tracks like Silverstone, we have rally cross tracks and...well pretty much every motorsport is covered in some shape of form. Motorsport is simply fun, I urge you to have a go at it even from a spectator point of view (not a media person) you can still get some decent shots, hopefully I've proved that to some people. Of course safety is important and that is something to be aware of when doing motorsport photography. I find that having someone else there with you helps as they can keep an eye out incase anything happens.

My favourite track to take photo's at has to be Cadwell Park so far, it's mix of bends, declines and inclines and beautiful surrounding scenery makes it a very fun track to shoot at. Here are some of my favourite motorsport captures.

I'm pretty sure you all have seen this shot, I'm not entirely sure why it was popular enough to make the calendar but I do love the sense of sharpness in the image, the way the exhaust which is dented is nicely sharp and the way there is heat haze rising from just above the crest of corner. This is one of the angles of Cadwell Park I really like, and I will certainly be using it again at some point.

I don't know why I've always liked this shot, and its not a angle of Cadwell Park which is overly interesting either but I like the fact that this was my first attempt at shooting (and panning) bikes and I seemed to cope relatively well IMO.

They are just a taster really, I've got plenty more and hope to take lots more this year too! Hopefully I can get out to some rallies or something similar this year too!

 

[Boffin]

I'm not very experienced with a camera, but I'd say my favourite subject to snap is cars. And of that, I'd say my favourite car shots are panning shots. Not that I'm much good at them, but I think I could be knowing what settings to put on the camera. I know the basics (make the shutter speed lower) but I saw a rule about it somewhere, and I just do it willy nilly.

I'll try and grace you all with some tips that I keep in the back of my head when I'd out shooting motorsports (yes - all 2 events ).

For statics - try and get the atmosphere of the place. This doesn't apply to on the track shots (which should most likely be panning anyways), but in pit lane or whatever. Get the subject, but also get what is going on around it, how it reacts to the environment, how others react to it....everything. Paint a picture of not only the subject, but the environment. Take into account the time of day, and try and accentuate it in the PP stage.

For panning - Shoot everything. You really want a shot of that white Mosler going round - but its halfway round the track, so I'll wait. Bzzzzt - wrong. For me at least, in panning shots, its more about the execution that I focus on rather than the subject. Not all panning shots are great (not with me anyways) so I maximise the chances of perfectly snapping something, rather than snapping the perfect thing.

I probably have more useless tips that everyone knows about.

One thing I need to practice is getting the WHOLE car in focus in a panning shot. Its usually down to the corners I'm perched at, but while some members post panning shots with all cars in focus, I still have trouble with it.

 

[LongbowX]

For panning - Shoot everything. You really want a shot of that white Mosler going round - but its halfway round the track, so I'll wait. Bzzzzt - wrong. For me at least, in panning shots, its more about the execution that I focus on rather than the subject. Not all panning shots are great (not with me anyways) so I maximise the chances of perfectly snapping something, rather than snapping the perfect thing.

I probably have more useless tips that everyone knows about.

One thing I need to practice is getting the WHOLE car in focus in a panning shot. Its usually down to the corners I'm perched at, but while some members post panning shots with all cars in focus, I still have trouble with it.

That is good advice. Shooting everything not only gives you more shots - it gives you more practice.

Hehe. Well, we won't know if everyone knows about it if you don't tell us. I certainly don't know everything, or even close to it. All I've been doing is relying on instinct, slowly supplementing it with knowledge I piece together. For the most part, I will only show my work when it "feels" right to me.

That's pretty much the extent of my skills, so I can't say I have anything worthwhile to offer people in terms of motorsport photography, except to encourage people to experiment.

 

[boiltheocean]

One thing I need to practice is getting the WHOLE car in focus in a panning shot. Its usually down to the corners I'm perched at, but while some members post panning shots with all cars in focus, I still have trouble with it.

That all depends on the angle between yourself and the car, it would be very difficult to incorporate motion blur with a 3/4 view of the car, some of it is bound to be out of focus. However if you shoot from a side on view then the car is nearly always in focus.

These are some of my personal favourites I've done, my only issue is that many are very similar. I'm going to put that down to it being my first motorsport event with a DSLR and most of the interesting corners were closed off.

I'm also going to repeat a great piece of advice I believe Syntax posted in someone's gallery ages ago. When panning use around 3-stops(shutter priority) below your focal length. I found it an immensely helpful guide and got a large haul of very sharp images by using it.

 

[Holdenhsvgtsr]

Normally when i pan i have it in Av mode and put it smaller till my shutter speed is around 1/50 - 1/125,works every time Remember to with your full body and not from your waist up.

 

[Syntax error]

Alright, here come the panning tips.... remember though, these ar enot hard and fast rules, however most of these will help improve the amount of shots you will get that are keepers. Invariably you will still have a bunch of shots that need to be trashed but with these settings, you reduce the amount of shots you will bin.

Make sure if you have a AI Servo auto focus setting switched on. For you Nikon users your manufacturer simplified the term (not sure if that's a dig at you Nikon users ) but it's called Continuous Focus. This will help immensely with getting the car to be sharp. As soon as you have partially pressed the shutter button the camera will track and focus on the big moving object continuously but be mindful that focus point you are using is on the vehicle.

Make sure you have your camera in burst mode. This is because when you pan, your first shot or two might be rubbish. Also you might find that pressing the shutter button might add to slight blurring. Fire off a few in rapid succession, usually about the 2nd to 4th shots should be nice and clean.

SSU mentioned a technique I employ a fair bit to pick a shutter speed that give you some good blur but also ensures that your subject stays relatively sharp, that is to shoot about 3 stops below the recommend hand held shutter speed for the focal length you are using. Rule of thumb is 1/60 for a 50mm, 1/125 for 200mm etc now drop it by 3 fold.

I tend to shoot mostly manual as well. You have full control and your shots will be consistent. However don't be scared to explore other settings. I regularly put the camera into both shutter priority and aperture priority as well. Depends on what I want to accomplish. With the two priority settings however, it usually means I'm trying to capture some cool background or light as well so in these circumstances I usually have my metering set to matrix.

The other most important part of panning is the panning itself. Get comfortable or else all your shots will fail. Set yourself so that you know that when you pan, the 3 shot in a burst will have you standing straight and your torso is not twisted, so if you are shooting left to right, start shooting when you are a little twisted and follow through. Make sure you keep panning after your shot as well. This ensures that you don't stop panning a little early and wreck your shot.

Also quickly with shots that have you at odd angles and not side on, it just means you don't have to pan as fast. You can probably drop the shutter speed an extra stop and pan really slowly as there is little in the way of side motion. The AI servo will take care of the sharpness of a car that is almost oncoming.

I think that's really about it......

I was hard pressed to pick my favorites but I thought I'd just go with two shots I think I haven't posted here before (could be wrong but it's hard to keep track).

Edit: Thought I'd add in a panning shot were the car is close to head on:

 

[Boffin]

That all depends on the angle between yourself and the car, it would be very difficult to incorporate motion blur with a 3/4 view of the car, some of it is bound to be out of focus. However if you shoot from a side on view then the car is nearly always in focus.

As I said, its probably the corners that I'm perched at.

I'm also going to repeat a great piece of advice I believe Syntax posted in someone's gallery ages ago. When panning use around 3-stops(shutter priority) below your focal length. I found it an immensely helpful guide and got a large haul of very sharp images by using it.

I think this was the rule that I was looking for. So to elaborate, if my lens is at 55mm, my shutter speed would be at 1/60 -> 1/50 -> 1/40 -> 1/30? Or have I got it completely wrong?

 

[Syntax error]

I think this was the rule that I was looking for. So to elaborate, if my lens is at 55mm, my shutter speed would be at 1/60 -> 1/50 -> 1/40 -> 1/30? Or have I got it completely wrong?

Yup. But remember it's only a guide. There are a lot of factors to take into account such as how much light you have, speed the cars are traveling at (F1 are considerable quicker than say normal trackday cars) and of coarse the most important thing being what you want to achieve with your shot.

 

[Boffin]

Yeah I realise 👍

Could I get a list of those focal length/recommended shutter speeds? (eg 50mm for 1/60, 200mm for 1/125

I have never heard of this rule of thumb, so I must admit its new to me. Usually I run off a few test rounds to gauge what sort of blur I'm getting, and go from there - also playing with the aperture if I'm on full M mode.

I think the Eastern creek ones were bound to be bad, as it was my first day, and were were snapping F3s, GTRs, Moslers, Vipers, 'vettes and Porkers. I got way more keepers at Oran park, and I still have quite a few that I haven't done anything with from Eastern Creek. Thinking whether or not to showcase them.

 

[GilesGuthrie]

More panning tips:

If you have IS on your lens, switch it off. The IS can counteract your pan technique, and get itself confused. I know about the single axis "mode 2" setting on Canon lenses, and I think that too doesn't really help.

You need an aperture of at least F/6.3 to get a whole car in focus while panning. Also, the narrower the aperture, the more defined your motion blur is.

Try to frame the shot so that there's space in front of the car.

Some general tips:

Only use Manual if the weather's consistent. Shooting M on a partly cloudy day is a recipe for ruined exposures.

Add at least 1/3 stop of exposure if you're shooting a white car. If you're shooting a car coming towards you with headlights on, you'll need +1 stop.

 

[Syntax error]

If you have IS on your lens, switch it off. The IS can counteract your pan technique, and get itself confused. I know about the single axis "mode 2" setting on Canon lenses, and I think that too doesn't really help.

Alot of people say this. Persoally I have never had an issue and I always leave IS on. Some of my lenses have mode 2 and I'll switch it to that but others only have the one IS setting and I have never had any adverse issues with panning.

Only use Manual if the weather's consistent. Shooting M on a partly cloudy day is a recipe for ruined exposures.

I would tend to disagree with this. Manual does not mean stick it in one setting and leave it there for the entire day, it means make manual adjustments yourself were required. I often shoot an entire day in manual with minimal throw away shots due to incorrect exposure settings. I tend to find auto metering is more likely to throw off my exposure settings on a partly cloudy day as cars tend to have sudden bursts of reflection if the sun pops out of the clouds occasionally and can then throw the exposure of the rest of the image off.


EDIT:

Could I get a list of those focal length/recommended shutter speeds? (eg 50mm for 1/60, 200mm for 1/125

I think this is the widely accepted shutter speeds for focal lengths:

35mm = 1/60
100mm = 1/125
200mm = 1/250
300mm = 1/500
600mm = 1/1000

Yet again though, some people have a steadier hand than others. I frequently shoot 500mm at about 1/125 or even 1/60 and manage a sharp shot (no monopod either, purely hand held).

 

[Cano]

damn, 1/60 hand held? I could never, hahaha, I have a terrible pulse. Its like, EPIC trembling. I still cannot believe I got myself in this photo stuff with such wobbly hands.

And for the same reason, I'm with Syntax in the IS thing. Heck, i'll pick up some IS lenses this year because my pulse is so wrong. I've shot with and without it and positively, IS has helped me. And I'm not talking static shots, I'm talking panning. In fact, when I first switched from the stabilized S2 with which I used to play, to the non-stabilized lenses in the XTI, I could not believe how wrong the pictures I got were. I got to the point of climbing to my roof and shooting what passed trough the street. It helped me get a lot better.

But yeah, stabilizarrrr ftw.

Ah, and also I agree with the manual settings, I always have the cammera in manual and have not had such problems... provided I REMEMBER to adjust the settings before it's too late. Whichs leads me to other useful tip: CONCENTRATE. Yeah, you are drooling over what is on the course, and then you blow pictures and when you see them they are completely white or dark because you did not put your settings correctly. It happened to me a lot in my first days. Now I at least try to get them in check all the time, but still, sometimes I forget, hahaha.

I'll put up some barely presentable shots I have laying around in my photobucket for lack of anything better to show now, because I have thousands of pictures from where to choose, but I never do, haha

These were taken with an extremely limited Canon S2. The F limit on this thing is f8, so I am limited to 1/100-160 most of the time, but the low light that day helped things out a lot. They are shot from the same point because I could not move around the track (private event, was there guerrilla-style), but I think they came out pretty well for the conditions I was stuck to.

This one, for example, has the rear cars in focus and not the front ones, abig mistake, but the S2 doesn't have burst mode, so I managed to get this only, later the group split and no other chance like this presented:

This one suffers the same basic mistake, rear car in focus, front one leading, out of sharpness. Never do this.

car a little blown and a little blurry, damned black cars:

this is specially difficult to do well if you have the lens of your camera poking out a tiny fence hle with about an inch of travel:

I'll search for more tought out photos in places where I could move freely around, I posted these because those are the ones I have online for now.

 

[Boffin]

I have more to say - but I don't have time to right now, so I'll reserve this post before the subject is changed.

 

[Watchman]

I have to say that I'm impressed by what came out in this thread. All of your pictures look great guys, especially the "Low-Light" ones. 👍

 

[Boffin]

Damn - still don't have time to whip up more than 1 example, but my last point was going to be:

Don't instantly throw away blurrey shots! As long as its in focus, give it another look, and see if it can be turned into something expressive - and simply not abiding by the slient rules that come with motorsport photography. What I'm on about was shown with my entry for the Action APC week. I could be in a minorety with this, because I didn't get any votes, but I don't mind them, and they are interesting as they stray away from the conventional "oooooohhhhh - something must be crisp and clear otherwise its no good!". Dare to do new things - otherwise, what sets you apart from the next 'togger?

I will do the examples, and link them back to this post - but I can't do that until Tuesday, so I won't hold up the Photo club anymore.👍

EDIT:

This one suffers the same basic mistake, rear car in focus, front one leading, out of sharpness. Never do this.

Why not??

Using that technique of blurring out the front to focus on the behind, it is an effective way of making the viewer focus on both subjects even when only one is in focus. It works a little like this.

 

[Cano]

yeah, I know that, but from a tecnical and compositional point of view, THAT picture is wrong. The composition takes you to see the car that leads, and that is the one that's blurred. It was a mistake on my side. I wanted to showcase how the Mustang was completely ripping apart the itaian lawnmower, but the focus went to the Ferrari -_-

In that kind of pictures, usually the car that has the lead is the one that should be in focus, the cars are at the same level and share the same depth of field unlike your Lambo pic. I can think of certain cases where thois could be aplied, for example, if you are asked to shoot a certain car/team, but by "rule of thumb", that picture up there is FAIL.

 

[Syntax error]

I took this one last weekend. I liked it and thought I'd share it in this thread:


1/50sec, f/20, ISO 100, 24mm

 

[Boffin]

yeah, I know that, but from a tecnical and compositional point of view, THAT picture is wrong. The composition takes you to see the car that leads, and that is the one that's blurred. It was a mistake on my side. I wanted to showcase how the Mustang was completely ripping apart the itaian lawnmower, but the focus went to the Ferrari -_-

In that kind of pictures, usually the car that has the lead is the one that should be in focus, the cars are at the same level and share the same depth of field unlike your Lambo pic. I can think of certain cases where thois could be aplied, for example, if you are asked to shoot a certain car/team, but by "rule of thumb", that picture up there is FAIL.

I think even in shots like yours it works. It captures the following car trying to keep up and looking for places to (inevitably in this case) pass.

The only fail thing I can see about yours is the somewhat bland framing (sorry - but understandable because its panning) but it doesn't strike me as fail just because focus is on the Fezza instead of the overpowered steaming pile of manure in front. 👍

Cool shot Syntax - really loving the tones in that. 👍

 

[boiltheocean]

Cool shot Syntax - really loving the tones in that. 👍

Agreed. Another brilliant thing that people will often overlook in Motorsports are the pitwalks and open garages, Go take a look! Static shots are also important.

 

[GilesGuthrie]

Absolutely. It's actually harder - in my view - to get good shots off-track

 

[Cano]

I think even in shots like yours it works. It captures the following car trying to keep up and looking for places to (inevitably in this case) pass.

The only fail thing I can see about yours is the somewhat bland framing (sorry - but understandable because its panning) but it doesn't strike me as fail just because focus is on the Fezza instead of the overpowered steaming pile of manure in front. 👍

Cool shot Syntax - really loving the tones in that. 👍

Aaah the framing opportunities I had sucked because I was there illegally, hiding from security guards haha, so no chance of moving a lot, and I could only manage one picture because I was using my S2.

And oh, no, the poor Ferrari could not pass the Mustang in the entire day, the Ford is pretty well built up with a centrifugal blower -about 500hp- and coilovers (i know, I know the car), and at this altitude (well over 2 kilometers above sea level, with horrible air) the Ferrari never stood a chance; true, in the twists the gap closed, but the straight in the Hermanos Rodriguez is loooooooooooooong. In fact, the damned car held up with some 360 Scuds that showed up, at least in the straights. It was cool to see. In the curves it was another history. But yes, its a piece of crap also. I dislike Mustangs... but not as much as I dislike italian horses

As for the pitts area pictures, I agree, it's a LOT more difficult to get a good/imaginative picture in there, even tough the cars are there... I have a hard time, and the fact that I have never shot an official race makes it harder. Finding intresting things to shoot in hardcore street cars parking at the pits are is harder than finding stuff on a race car.

 

[boiltheocean]

Theme change on request, and this sort-of died recently.

Anyway onto one of my favourite subjects now, Film. I absolutely love film as every image carries a unique quality about it that cannot, even with the best of software, be replicated by digital, I don't know if it's because we pay more attention when shooting film as we don't have many shots on a roll or something else, all I know is that I love it.

The first college assignment I did was shooting on Black and White film and developing the image from shutter to print, it's a really rewarding process that I would encourage people just to try for the experience, plus Film camera's are a blast to work with.

I'm also shooting on colour film at the moment for the Fujifilm Student Awards, should be interesting!

 

[Syntax error]

Anyway onto one of my favourite subjects now, Film.

Hehe thought you might like the topic. The thread needed a boot up the bum as it seems discussion is limited in here and dies pretty easily without constant stimulation

Love film as well. It has a certain warmth to it that is lacking from digital images.

What equipment does everyone use? I'd be interested to know. I have probably about five or six 35mm film cameras and but I primarily use either my Canon EOS 50E as it accepts all my current L lenses, plus it's a breeze to use. The other camera I use mostly is my Minolta XG-M. My grandfather bought me my first one when I was about 10. It was my first SLR and to this day I use one. I had to replace the original one about two years ago as it finally gave up and died but it's solid and the images out of it are brilliant. On the Minolta I tend to only use a 45mm F/2 Prime evn though I have a few lenses that fit it.

I also have a 6x6 medium format camera (the name of the brand escapes me at present) but it's a fairly old camera. I'm yet to use it however, simply as I have not found a good application for it yet.


Most of you have probably seen these shots but they are the only ones I have on hand without doing a lot of digging through my archives;

This is one I took recently in the hospital when my daughter was born. I love this shot, poor thing looks so helpless. 400ISO film so I think my settings were around 1/40sec, F/2. I took this with the Minolta, it's a full manual camera, no auto focus or auto settings of any kind.

These I took of the now demolished Oran Park raceway last year. I used the Canon 50E for these shots. The 50E works pretty much like all the current crop of DSLR's so I had the camera set to exposure priority (1/60 me thinks) and attached a 24-105mm L f/4 and off I went. Awesome attendance btw:

had to really think before I committed to any of the panning shots as you don't get many chances:

Also anyone use a darkroom here? I have about 90% of a Nikon enlarger (I think I'm missing a piece of the stand) but have been contemplating on doing some developing myself. It's been about 15 years since the last time I developed my own shots but I remember enjoying it immensely.

 

[boiltheocean]

What equipment does everyone use? I'd be interested to know. I have probably about five or six 35mm film cameras and but I primarily use either my Canon EOS 50E as it accepts all my current L lenses, plus it's a breeze to use. The other camera I use mostly is my Minolta XG-M. My grandfather bought me my first one when I was about 10. It was my first SLR and to this day I use one. I had to replace the original one about two years ago as it finally gave up and died but it's solid and the images out of it are brilliant. On the Minolta I tend to only use a 45mm F/2 Prime evn though I have a few lenses that fit it.

Currently I'm using a Fujica STX-1 which belonged to my Grandad, just like your Minolta it's a full manual camera.

Hopefully around my birthday I'll pick up a Minolta Maxxum 7 off ebay which will be immensely helpful as I can use my Sony/Minolta alpha mount lenses on it.

 

[Boffin]

I have two FSLRs. One I got from my grandad, and one that I nicked from the parents. I also have quite a lot of other stuff (filters, tripods, etc) that came with them, and because they were both Nikon, it was a big factor in me going Nikon instead of Canon for the DSLR.

Must admit I haven't touched the FSLRs in a while. The last time was in 2005 when we last went to europe, and I was dubbed Mr. Photographyman. I thought I took some good shots. Then, I was more in to the gear than actually getting a better photo out of it, but they were still connected, and I reckon the results were pretty good for a 14yr old. Having some epic scenery to shoot was always helpful.
If you want examples of my early work (heh heh), I'll have to delve into netheregions of the office cupboards to dig out the scrap book and scan them in. I think I might at one stage anyway.

I haven't developed my own film. I sort of know the theory behind it, and I believe it is the first subject at uni starting at the end of Feb, so I'm looking forward to it.

My tip for FSLR users- WORSHIP THAT DAMMED NEEDLE! - or meter, or whatever it it on your camera. The one telling you how much light you have going into the camera. You can have a steady hand and a good eye till the cows come home, but if you don't check the needle (being a n00b, I don't know what its called), your shots are destined for fail. Sure, you don't have to abide by it, having t always in the centre, but take notice of what its doing.

 

[Cano]

aaaaaaahhh I'd love to have my film material at hand. I went trough three semesters of photography in uni, two in b/w, one in colour, all developing made by me, and it was like the highlight of the entire week. Heck, I went to school ON SUNDAYS just to the photo class. It was awesome. I'd also recommend people to try to develop their own pictures, its AWESOME and incredibly rewarding.

here is the only film picture I have laying around, some of you may remember it from one photocomp, it was one of the best pictures of my final essay about abandoned cars (surprise) in my second semester:

Edit: Ah yeah, I cheated: I used a semiautomatic Canon Rebel, because it was practically given to me by an uncle who just had it laying around and never used it. The picture above was shot with the stock lens and a cheapo fisheye I borrowed from a friend of mine for the essay. I think I have the proof sheets of the entire work scanned somehwere, I'll look for them.

 

[Syntax error]

Currently I'm using a Fujica STX-1 which belonged to my Grandad, just like your Minolta it's a full manual camera.

Hopefully around my birthday I'll pick up a Minolta Maxxum 7 off ebay which will be immensely helpful as I can use my Sony/Minolta alpha mount lenses on it.

Smart move. I love shooting with the Minolta but occasionally I like to make use of my more extensive canon lens line up so it's good to switch to the 50E. You will find that to be the case if you get the Maxxum 7. They seems to be going for a very reasonable price on ebay might I add. I've also decided I'll increase my FSLR line up, I'm looking at a Canon 1V probably in the next few months as well.

My tip for FSLR users- WORSHIP THAT DAMMED NEEDLE! - or meter, or whatever it it on your camera. The one telling you how much light you have going into the camera. You can have a steady hand and a good eye till the cows come home, but if you don't check the needle (being a n00b, I don't know what its called), your shots are destined for fail. Sure, you don't have to abide by it, having t always in the centre, but take notice of what its doing.

It's a light meter. I've got a few old portable ones as well that date back to the 50's & 60's with the needle technology. Quite amusing little gadgets. Very handy though if you have no other method for picking exposure. Thankfully even though my minolta is a 1981 model, it comes with a slightly more sophisticated version that actually gives you a reading in the viewfinder and even takes into consideration exposure bias and ISO settings you may have imputed with the slightly primitive dials up top.

Edit: Ah yeah, I cheated: I used a semiautomatic Canon Rebel, because it was practically given to me by an uncle who just had it laying around and never used it. The picture above was shot with the stock lens and a cheapo fisheye I borrowed from a friend of mine for the essay. I think I have the proof sheets of the entire work scanned somehwere, I'll look for them.

It's not cheating Cano. I don't see anything wrong with making use of great technology in the aid of taking good photos. I like that rusted fairlane shot as well. Nice one. 👍

 

[boiltheocean]

Hmm this has got quiet lately. Subject change I think! Due to the debate going on in the Amazing and Cool picture thread I thought I could incorporate the next theme with the discussion.
So this theme is all about your influences, which my Photographer teacher says(and I agree with him) is probably one of the most important aspects of photography. Without studying what others are doing how can you expect to improve?
Also as this is a theme that is very easy to contribute to it should last quite some time.

I'm currently really into the work of Jonas Bendiksen. His series on Russian satellites is amazing not only from a technical standpoint but each picture writes it's own description.

 

[Syntax error]

Those are pretty impressive shots there SSU.


Although I draw inspiration from many photographers, there are two in particular that really have influenced me.


The first one is Mark Rebilas. His shots are a constant reminder how creative and beautiful motor sport shots can be:

The other is Easton Chang. He shoots for our Motor magazine (Australian car rag). He really does have some great work and was one of the pioneers of refining the modern rigging system:

 

[Joey D]

I love the work of Art Wolfe.

I don't know if I can imitate his style successfully but I sure would like to try. His photos are amazing.