The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Hi,

I actually race this combo (WSP and T500). The good thing is, that the pedals are fixed with screws. So there is no movement. The wheel-deck has no left/right-movement. I only experience a bit of back/forward-movement of the wheel-deck (centerpost), now as I use it for some time. But I might only have to tighten the screws a little bit. Overall, any movement is within my personal tolerance, as there is actually only that single movement (or "wobble") which I discribed. It will never be as sturdy as a good rig. But for it's purpose and it's adjustability, it's just fine. :-)
 
Hi,

I actually race this combo (WSP and T500). The good thing is, that the pedals are fixed with screws. So there is no movement. The wheel-deck has no left/right-movement. I only experience a bit of back/forward-movement of the wheel-deck (centerpost), now as I use it for some time. But I might only have to tighten the screws a little bit. Overall, any movement is within my personal tolerance, as there is actually only that single movement (or "wobble") which I discribed. It will never be as sturdy as a good rig. But for it's purpose and it's adjustability, it's just fine. :-)

I have one too and can't fault it. It is so much more sturdy than I thought it would be. I have my pedals in the GT style, this way around you can't bolt them down, but I have just used cable ties and they don't budge at all in the slightest. Great product 👍
 
I'm close to spending the extra money, on the T500RS over the G27. The thing is, I can't really decide which to choose. What's the pros and cons, on both wheels? - I've search 15 times on Google, but I still haven't found a comparision based on GT5. So I ask, please help me, choose. Again, I'll only use it with PS3 games (mostly GT), and not any computer game(s).

- And, I'll for sure be getting a WSP, after all the great things I've read about them.
 
I'm close to spending the extra money, on the T500RS over the G27. The thing is, I can't really decide which to choose. What's the pros and cons, on both wheels? - I've search 15 times on Google, but I still haven't found a comparision based on GT5. So I ask, please help me, choose. Again, I'll only use it with PS3 games (mostly GT), and not any computer game(s).

- And, I'll for sure be getting a WSP, after all the great things I've read about them.

Check the InsideSimRacing YouTube channel. They did a really good video when the wheel first came out, two years ago.

Here's one reason to get the T500, it's current tech and is still being supported with firmware updates from Thrustmaster. As well as being actively supported by PD. Part of GT5 v2.10 was an update for the T500 to further refine its feel. There are things that the Logitech wheels can't do. Sure it's half the price of the T500. It's great to have choices, $99 DFGT, $250 G27, or the $600 T500rs.

Toyota has the budget Corolla, then the Camry can be bought in a sporty SE model, and then there is the Lexus brand! The T500 isn't quite an LFA of wheels, those are PC only (PlayStation does not support them) that cost like 2 grand!

If you are willing to spend it and it won't put you in a financial bind, absolutely get the T500! Yes the next gen Fanatec wheels have greatly advanced over the Porsche style. They are not fully supported by GT. Which means they cannot take full advantage of the effects that PD coded for the T500. They emulate the drivers for Logitech wheels. The CSW is a very nicely engineered piece of hardware. A full setup costs more than a T500.

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/EkgxRNQ7F6g
 
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Check the InsideSimRacing YouTube channel. They did a really good video when the wheel first came out, two years ago.

Here's one reason to get the T500, it's current tech and is still being supported with firmware updates from Thrustmaster. As well as being actively supported by PD. Part of GT5 v2.10 was an update for the T500 to further refine its feel. There are things that the Logitech wheels can't do. Sure it's half the price of the T500. It's great to have choices, $99 DFGT, $250 G27, or the $600 T500rs.

Toyota has the budget Corolla, then the Camry can be bought in a sporty SE model, and then there is the Lexus brand! The T500 isn't quite an LFA of wheels, those are PC only (PlayStation does not support them) that cost like 2 grand!

If you are willing to spend it and it won't put you in a financial bind, absolutely get the T500! Yes the next gen Fanatec wheels have greatly advanced over the Porsche style. They are not fully supported by GT. Which means they cannot take full advantage of the effects that PD coded for the T500. They emulate the drivers for Logitech wheels. The CSW is a very nicely engineered piece of hardware. A full setup costs more than a T500.

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/EkgxRNQ7F6g

Thanks for the info! I've found the T500 for a great €360, which I guess is an okay price, including shipping and handling. I've previous seen the video, you linked and it made me more sure about getting the T500. I'm not sure about getting the shifter, as a start, but I still haven't made up my mind. The T500 must be the best of the best (inside a "normal" price range), and way better than the G27. Though, another question comes to my mind; how's the stability? My DFGT seems to be lacking of FFB, after around 1.5 hours, - will that happen to the T500?
 
Nope, no FFB loss after hours of use. In fact, per the suggestion of OwensRacing, I turned my FFB down from 7 to 3. This helped reduce some sudden oversteer. The motor in the T500 is much beefier. The DFGT is an entry level in the non-toy segment of wheels. It's odd that your having FFB fade. I had my G25 from early in the GT5p Japanese (import) release. I used it until 2 years ago. I don't recall any FFB fade. Especially after that short of time, weird.

Don't freak out when the fan on the T500 spins faster, it can be really noticeable while racing in a quiet environment. But if you've got the volume cranked, or in a full surround system, you'll quickly block it out. The loud fan is different from a defective fan making an unusual noise. This fan is much bigger than that if the the G25 or DFGT. You're going to hear odd noises for the first few hours of use as parts break in and seat themselves.
 
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I have not noticed FFB going down in strength

However I just about never run ffb on the T500RS on 100 % as it just is to much even for my 320 mm wheel and my weak arms. It has twice the torque of the G27 (measured).

No hurry with the shifter the paddles are good though clicky though like the wheel the TH8RS is hard to find here locally. There appear to be no units by the supplier and unsure when they will get new. I don´t know what´s up with that.
 
If shifting with a gate is really important to you, then get it. The paddles work just fine for me. Although they do click and don't "clunk" like the G25. Besides, it will use 2 USB ports for the T500 + shifter. This is where a multi port bus comes in handy :)

When I got my T500, it helped me to not only pass a part I of the special rally event (Eiger) that was struggling with, but I soon after golded it.

Thrustmaster customer service has never let me down, even when I thought odd noises were not normal. I original fan did go bad, made a loud noise. They sent a new upgrades version with installation instructions. Really easy to do, no soldering or anything like that.
 
So, the gear stick uses an USB port, along with the wheel?

I'm still not 100% sure, but 98%. I guess you'll just need to take some chances in life, sometimes.
 
So, the gear stick uses an USB port, along with the wheel?

I'm still not 100% sure, but 98%. I guess you'll just need to take some chances in life, sometimes.

Yes, the shifter connects via USB. This way it can be used for other wheels and not proprietary to Thrustmaster :)

Having a multi port adapter could add 4 ports. When I ordered (Amazon) my daughter's Slim PS3, I bought an adapter at the same time, and a SD card reader. My USB extension cable, charge cable, PS Eye, and SD reader are always plugged in.
 
I can at least tell you, that 360€ is a fantastic offer!

Best price here in Germany is 400€ at the moment.

Enough has been said about the wheel itself. I can only add, that T500RS and TH8RS is a great combo. I used it in GT5 and now on iRacing. Fantastic! 👍
 
Does anybody have a problem with cracking/creaking sounds when turning?? For me its from dead center to about 10 degrees counter clockwise which makes the sound.

Any way to fix it without having to send it in for warranty work?? Wheel works fine & is noticeable if the volume is low.

So ive got my new wheel after the first one packed up after 5 days. Now it has started to do this, this one is five days old too. Seriously, how poorly made are these wheels?

Any one else had this? I guess ill see if it gets worse...
 
Hello, I have a doubt between the CSW and T500rs. In matter of performance (hotlap) is behind the T500rs or far behind the CSW? (I have a G27 with CSP V2).

My biggest question is with respect to quality of CSW. While T500rs you only hear about the problems related to fans, the CSW you hear various problems and serious problem as burning engines (ffb) ...
 
So ive got my new wheel after the first one packed up after 5 days. Now it has started to do this, this one is five days old too. Seriously, how poorly made are these wheels?

Any one else had this? I guess ill see if it gets worse...

I contacted Thrustmaster & sent them a video. They requested that I send my wheel in, which I did, & they've replaced the wheel for me with a comment that the internal part was not fixable. I originally had Version 1 wheel & got V4 replacement, during warranty. That was well over 18 months ago & the new one works flawlessly.

I suggest either you return it at the place you bought it & pick up a new one, or go the long route, going through Thrustmaster support. I was wheel less for 7 weeks. Fortunately I had a G25 as backup.
 
Hello, I have a doubt between the CSW and T500rs. In matter of performance (hotlap) is behind the T500rs or far behind the CSW? (I have a G27 with CSP V2).

My biggest question is with respect to quality of CSW. While T500rs you only hear about the problems related to fans, the CSW you hear various problems and serious problem as burning engines (ffb) ...

I have a T500 and I have run my friend's CSW. The CSW is definitely a step up. For example, the GT rim for the CSW is the best rim I have ever used on any wheel. But, I decided that the price difference was not justified by the difference in performance. I got my T500 for under $400 brand new. To get a comparably equipped CSW, you are looking at $720, including shipping.
 
I have a T500 and I have run my friend's CSW. The CSW is definitely a step up. For example, the GT rim for the CSW is the best rim I have ever used on any wheel. But, I decided that the price difference was not justified by the difference in performance. I got my T500 for under $400 brand new. To get a comparably equipped CSW, you are looking at $720, including shipping.


I'm from Brazil, to me the price difference is even greater. The T500rs cost $ 1000 in Brazil, and the CSW with F1 and GT rim cost $ 2000. (This taking into account only the value of the U.S. dollar against the Brazilian Real money)

My uncle is going to buy for me, he lives in France and turns spending the holidays in Brazil in March.

The T500rs costs $ 350 the F1 rim costs $ 130, totaling $ 480.
CSW base + F1 + BMW kidney costs $ 879.

Suppose I just stay with the CSW Base + F1 kidney totaling $ 620

According to his playing experience which is the size of the difference T500rs to CSW on track (milliseconds or seconds apart)?

My fear is just that. That difference in price is only justified by the quality of construction and finish of the wheels and not on an actual performance on the track (hotlap).
With ClubsportPedal V2 I won until half a second difference on some tracks in relation to the G27 pedals, and rarely do I turn the car with CSPV2, for me the price of CSPV2 was justified.

Thank you.
 
Hello, I have a doubt between the CSW and T500rs. In matter of performance (hotlap) is behind the T500rs or far behind the CSW? (I have a G27 with CSP V2).

My biggest question is with respect to quality of CSW. While T500rs you only hear about the problems related to fans, the CSW you hear various problems and serious problem as burning engines (ffb) ...

Felipe honestly if you are just hotlapping and speed is your criteria keep the G27. It´s a very easy going wheel easy to turn and it don´t have any force feedback that can make you go slower. Wheels like T500RS and CSW do offer higher precision but I have never had a problem getting cars pointed where I want them with the G27.

And the saying driving by ffb make you go slower is true for me.

I spent the last days hotlapping until blue in the face with a 911 RSR at Watkins Glen. I finally found some stability so decided to use these to try out my different rims on my T500RS, compare to my G27 and also compare my clubsport V2 compared to the T500RS pedals.

Among all these it´s painfully obvious how hard it´s to buy speed. There is no conclusive as to what combo I am the fastest with. I got a miracle lap in on the T500RS with T500RS pedals at 1,37,1 which I haven´t been able to replicate but I do 1,37,4 with any configuration combination.

As they say it´s really the pedals that can make a difference. While I do have the pb on the T500RS pedals it feels like the CSP V2 may have a slight advantage for me. I believe more due to the smooth throttle then the brake but can say nothing conclusive. CSP V2 feel is entirely different to T500RS with mrbasher busing mod seriously confusing :)

As for G27? Hasn´t driven that for several weeks. Put it in feels aaawful Toys are us to the max. But don´t you believe it a few laps in I do a 37,4 with it as well. I wasn´t faster with it overall though quite samish but it´s not that fun to operate honestly. FFB is very bad, there is no torque and the wheel rim itself is no match for my F1 wheel and RMD Malaga 320 mm in feel.

But as mention you shouldn´t expect to go faster with either the T500RS or CSW. If so it´s probably due to immersion factor or new toy syndrome. It´s just more fun to race with something that don´t feel as much of a toy :)
 
But as mention you shouldn´t expect to go faster with either the T500RS or CSW. If so it´s probably due to immersion factor or new toy syndrome. It´s just more fun to race with something that don´t feel as much of a toy :)

Totally agree, if you take the time to run some of the PSNs on the MyGranTurismo.net filters for GT5 TTs of the frequent posters here you will find that expensive toys some of them own do not necessarily translate into fast times for them.

...and if I may add, a lot of those users with expensive toys are using aids like TCS, and ABS in the events. In contrast, quite a few of the DFGT owners are blazing fast, not to mention G25/G27 as well. Check out the latest 2012 GTA USA videos...notice the equipment that got some of those guys there...

So if you want immersion, then I agree with oqvist, but that will not guarantee you faster times. And all this back and forth on the forum about brakes, load cell or no load cell, some of these really fast GT5 TT participants are running stock G25/G27 or T500 pedals WITH 0 ABS.
 
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DBox install and rig build-ups are coming along. Should be done by tomorrow.


Sorry to "pollute" this thread with a G27 :lol:, but here is the other rig a little further along. The monitor stand is only tacked together to check install heights. We are knocking these screen mounts out quickly as our adjustable one will take too long to get ready for 2 important meetings this week. The Rockus 2.1 sound system is sitting behind the rig here, it POUNDS :) The keyboard/mouse stand is sitting on a prototype bracket. We'll get it on both rigs by tomorrow.


If I can get it done quickly enough, I'll try to do a video of it from multiple angles :boggled:, but I'm already tired and no weekend to chill!
 
Hi,
Just signed up looking for some possible info please from the guys that have frequented this thread and know all there is to know about the t500rs and the various versions

I'm now on my 3rd wheel since dec 2012, so around a month.

All wheels have been v2 :(
Wheels have been hard mounted to a Gt Omega cockpit and room temp is 17/20 degrees.

First burned up after 11 days.

Second would lose alot of its ffb power after an hour gaming and would get weaker and weaker the more its used as its getting hottor and hotter as it loses its power.

Third wheel allso loses alot of its ffb power due to heat issues by the looks of it.

Anybody any suggestions, allso why the hell do i keep getting v2's in 2013 ?

Was there a added fan to the motors heatsink in later versions ????

I've ordered myself 2x 60mm and 2x 92mm fans to mod to the outside of the case on the 2 lower intakes and the 2 top outakes on either side of the stock terrible fan and may take the unit apart for modded fans to motor heatsink but im still not sure wether im willing to destroy a 2 year warrenty with a 4 day old wheel, i can afford to buy a new oneif i must but thats not the piont.


So if i want a race session with mates we cant game for more than 2 hours without havng a over hot wheel and ffb is felt like its powered by a broken elastic band ?

Anybody else with v2 and been used for along time with no issues ?

As i'm fed up of returns and ordering from different places and waiting for refunds i'm totally lost as what todo, do i mod with fans that might make little to no difference or do i keep going around in circles getting v2's :(

I've actually 4 v2 wheels in last month but first was sent back as they said they had v4's, the next wheel they sent had a v4 sticker over the v2 on the outer box and had v32 firmware and was a v2, boxes have been the ones with US scribled out on all 4 boxes, im in the uk.

Thanks for any info that can be given.
 
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Hi,

I have a V2 and use it for several months now without issues.

You really have bad luck with your wheel(s). Somewhere in the manual it says, that you should make some breaks from time to time. So if you use a high FFB setting and race 2 hours non-stop, overheating might be the issue. Have you tried to lower your FFB? Or what are your settings and on which platform?

Normally that shouldn't happen, but it's just my idea of your issue.

Have you ever contacted Thrustmaster support? I understand that you always sent your wheel back to the retailer to get a replacement?

Regards
 
After reading some reviews, on Amazon (USA), I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the T500RS along with the Wheel Stand Pro. Though one review made me want to get an answer to this (http://www.amazon.com/review/R2ALFY...e=UTF8&ASIN=B004J6KRD6&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=) - Is the T500RS not "plug and play", for GT5? It seems a bit weird, if the wheel won't work (especially since it's a GT official wheel), before downloading some software. I can understand if it's on computer, but it should work for GT, right?
 
Hi,

I have a V2 and use it for several months now without issues.

You really have bad luck with your wheel(s). Somewhere in the manual it says, that you should make some breaks from time to time. So if you use a high FFB setting and race 2 hours non-stop, overheating might be the issue. Have you tried to lower your FFB? Or what are your settings and on which platform?

Normally that shouldn't happen, but it's just my idea of your issue.

Have you ever contacted Thrustmaster support? I understand that you always sent your wheel back to the retailer to get a replacement?

Regards

Hi,
Thankyou for your info, it's valuable :)

On 60% in Tm control panel ( pc ) i can go for about an hour before ffb starts to lose power, this is nonestop time trials and after the hour it gets proggressivly weaker, at 100% with a lighter wheel in game settings its about 30/40 min before power starts to dwindle.

At the mo all i have to play is Race room experience beta so i'm doing alot of time trials, i have'nt any games that im interested in doing a long MP session so i cant test to see if 10 min racing and 5 min waiting in lobby keeps the wheel cool with no loss of some ffb power ?
It probly will hold up, i have messages from TM stating wheel is tested to work at 100% ffb with no bad effects for prolonged periods of time, this just is'nt true for the last 3 wheels.

I think i'll add the 4x fans and then see whats what, it should have at least 3x more hot air being removed so may make a difference,one on the heatsink would be awsome.
I belive if i just stick fans on the outer case i'll not viod warrenty as i can remove them ??

I'd prefer it if the fans done something then i would'nt need to send it back and deal with down time for a few weeks, i have 2 year warrenty to use so its not doom and gloom.
 
I use the following settings:

60% overall in the Thrustmaster settings (all other sliders at 100%) and FFB 8.0 in iRacing in linear mode. On PS3 (GT5) I had it set to 4.

When I drive IndyCar (iRacing), after 10-15 minutes the fan starts to work. When I finish (after ~45 minutes of racing) the fan continues for at least another 30 minutes. Sometimes longer.

I never noticed any loss in FFB or shut down. So there is definitely something wrong. But 3 bad wheels in a row? That's strange and in case of wheel failiure not acceptable.

What about your fan? when does it start and when does it end operation?

I have no other FFB value (for other games) on hand, as I basically play iRacing or GT5 with this wheel. Only little experience with T500 and GSC2012 (which is basically rFactor 1).

Sorry, I can not offer any solution. However cooling seems to be the way to go.
 
If you've gone through 3 wheels, I doubt the problem is with the wheels. There's something going on on your end. Check your power outlets and USB ports. Switch around to different ports and outlets, you may have an issue with power and not know it.
 
If you've gone through 3 wheels, I doubt the problem is with the wheels. There's something going on on your end. Check your power outlets and USB ports. Switch around to different ports and outlets, you may have an issue with power and not know it.

I was wondering if it wasn't something in their environment too that was causing the issue. As the PS is a switching multi-voltage unit, I wouldn't think that would be the biggest issue though as I think the electronics would be more sensitive than the motors.

What type of environment is this being used in? If the wheel can't get enough air around it with the stock ventilation, I wonder if adding fans would help.

Another point is the motors are NOT broken in when the unit is new and can draw a lot of amperage (heat), through arcing, until the brushes are fully seated. I found that the FFB was quite poor as I started to drive with my T500. But it quickly started to provide greater and greater FFB. I tend to drive with FFB low, and this helps break the motors in slowly so that they will ultimately be a bit stronger than ones broken in with high amperage. I would recommend short sessions with lower FFB settings initially to get the motors to their prime (a few hours).

The 60% in the TM menu is right, then set the FFB level in the game.
 
Thanks for info guys.
I'd say the issue has tobe related to poor cooling hence the reason one has burned out at 100% ffb and 2 others lose ffb somewhat when warm to hot.
I use 70% ffb in control panel due to nice ffb strength, 100% would be nicer but i'm not trusting anything untill i get some fans midweek.

Fan comes when ive raced for around 5/10 min and if i then race for an hour ffb will started to off got weakish compared to cold and i'd think teh cooling fan would then stay on for 45 min or less.

Usb is plugged into motherboard port, power is from a wall socket.
 
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