The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
  • 2,145,932 views
Well I have something for the masses, I am planning a small mod, I would like to tap into the paddle shifters switches and make my own sequential shifter, so I would have the option of using the paddles or the DIY shifter, I would be using a spare arcade stick I have as the shifter (which has 4 micro switches. Can anyone tell me if I can just splice into the wiring on the T500 paddle switches and be off and running or would that not work. Or does anyone have a better idea to complete this mod.

I am also considering making a Ebrake with one of thes arcade sticks for my rig as well

8373536636


www.flickr.com/photos/79420586@N02/8373536636
 
Last edited:
guybo
I went from CSP to the T500 pedals directly. The loadcell brake is over-rated. I even tried to mod my T500 pedals to take the CSP loadcell (the loadcell and the electronics still work and the mod worked well enough) but I got rid of the mod when I realized I just do not need it.

The stiff brake mod that comes with the T500 does a great job providing a progressive feel to the stiffness of the brake. The sensor in the brake is not a regular pot, it is a HEART (Hall effect magnetic sensor) and it is excellent. I can heel and toe with these, I can use progrssive braking and I can keep the braking right on the edge.

The only thing I miss from the CSP, is that they have a much longer throw on the gas pedal. I have modded my pedals to maximize the throw, I have raised the brake pedal a little (for heel and toe) and the lack of throw with the gas pedal is no big deal. Don't get too obsessed with the idea of a loadcell
Click to expand...

Your opinion is of course complete valid, but I felt just the other way around.

One of the best things about the CSP is their adjustability. From pedal throw, resistance, pedal positioning - vastly superior to the T500 pedals.

I had my CSPs setup with a very stiff, short throw brake pedal and got used to it that way. I had the brake and throttle positioning so the pedal plates were almost interlocking. This allowed me to learn heel-toe and maintain very consistent braking.

I did not like the T500 stiff brake mod at all and stock it is non-progressive and soft. So I was first in line for the Bodin mod. It has a fantastic, progressive feeling that is very satisfying and which for me is better than the CSPs. The pedal spacing is still not right for me, but that can also be modded.

I don't know what I am trying to say exactly :) but, don't judge loadcells purely on the CSPs.
 
redmalloc
Your opinion is of course complete valid, but I felt just the other way around.

One of the best things about the CSP is their adjustability. From pedal throw, resistance, pedal positioning - vastly superior to the T500 pedals.

I had my CSPs setup with a very stiff, short throw brake pedal and got used to it that way. I had the brake and throttle positioning so the pedal plates were almost interlocking. This allowed me to learn heel-toe and maintain very consistent braking.

I did not like the T500 stiff brake mod at all and stock it is non-progressive and soft. So I was first in line for the Bodin mod. It has a fantastic, progressive feeling that is very satisfying and which for me is better than the CSPs. The pedal spacing is still not right for me, but that can also be modded.

I don't know what I am trying to say exactly :) but, don't judge loadcells purely on the CSPs.
Click to expand...

Agree. Csp V2 much more adjustable. They feel better IMHO than the T500 pedals too, but I 've not used them enough to say I am exponentially faster. Seriously considered CST Cannon pedals but couldn't justify spending $900 as tempted as I was. Rather put the funds into my rig (2 more screens) or shocks/struts for my real car at this stage.
 
I have two sets of Clubsports V.1, and the T500 pedals. The T500 pedals are good quality, but they are not in the same class as the Clubsports. The brake pedals, in particular, are light years apart.
 
I'm not a fan of how some pedals are adapted onto the Human Racing GT Chassis, so I did my own T500RS pedal install :) They sit nicely, where they should. It mounts using the normal 4 mounting screws that come with the chassis for mounting the pedals. The checker plate heel rest will be fit tomorrow.

 
where is the "like" button, quick, clickkityclick
Nice work Pilmat I have to ask, did you have to cut the base of the pedal or just that black plate will do?
and how does it feel ?
 
Hwangm
where is the "like" button, quick, clickkityclick
Nice work Pilmat I have to ask, did you have to cut the base of the pedal or just that black plate will do?
and how does it feel ?
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

The mod is a fairly big one. The black cover plate is cut and the base of the pedal. The cross bar in the front is shortened too. I had to dismantle the entire pedal to do a good job.

I added two steel plates that screw to all three pedal bases and they are what the screws attaching the chassis are threaded into. The concept is similar to what the adapter plates do, except I made the pedals fit properly into the rig too. This means I couldn't use stock mounting holes in the pedals.

As for the feel, I think there is something up with the pot drive on the brake, as there is quite a bit of pedal travel before iRacing can detect any pot change. I had to take the throttle pot off to cut the pedal base, and it was only finger tight from factory. I'm thinking that the brake pot drive gear is not properly engaged in the pedal gear, creating a backlash issue which is hindering resolution. I'll look into it today.
 
pilmat
Thanks :)

The mod is a fairly big one. The black cover plate is cut and the base of the pedal. The cross bar in the front is shortened too. I had to dismantle the entire pedal to do a good job.

I added two steel plates that screw to all three pedal bases and they are what the screws attaching the chassis are threaded into. The concept is similar to what the adapter plates do, except I made the pedals fit properly into the rig too. This means I couldn't use stock mounting holes in the pedals.

As for the feel, I think there is something up with the pot drive on the brake, as there is quite a bit of pedal travel before iRacing can detect any pot change. I had to take the throttle pot off to cut the pedal base, and it was only finger tight from factory. I'm thinking that the brake pot drive gear is not properly engaged in the pedal gear, creating a backlash issue which is hindering resolution. I'll look into it today.
Click to expand...

Wow, that IS a big job:nervous:, Im going to be bodinning my pedal soon, but currently I use the HR-CSP plate that they sent and the holes are purrrfect
on another note, cable management fastest and cleanest is 3m clear double sided tape- the neck area is a bit wiggly those cables, just noticed now. but the side is like a well combed hair.(notice the two sides as well near the carpet. so no cables lying around.

another postiive note is. I can peel of the cable and put it back on without much effort.
img_3835.jpg
 
Hwangm
Wow, that IS a big job:nervous:, Im going to be bodinning my pedal soon, but currently I use the HR-CSP plate that they sent and the holes are purrrfect
on another note, cable management fastest and cleanest is 3m clear double sided tape- the neck area is a bit wiggly those cables, just noticed now. but the side is like a well combed hair.(notice the two sides as well near the carpet. so no cables lying around.

another postiive note is. I can peel of the cable and put it back on without much effort.
img_3835.jpg
Click to expand...

The job is only big in that it took me a whole day :irked: There is less than $10 of materials, but many hours of fitting.

I really like your cable management Marcus :) It inspired me to do my rig in a similar fashion. I used small strips of double sided tape and then put a similar width piece of aluminum tape over the top to "clamp" the cables. At the shop we can have a good bit of dust when building NASCARs, so the exposed double sided tape would get 'furry' pretty quick :lol:


Back on topic :) Here is the modded pedals from the bottom, showing some of the extent of the mod. The pot cover on the throttle is removed.

 
Double post!

I got to the bottom of the brake issue. Using the menu in Game Controllers, I could see that the brake wasn't seeing any input until almost half the travel. I looked at the pot and it was clocked as the gas and clutch and had a bit of a floppy shaft (the gas and clutch pots were much better). I clocked it one tooth more and moved the pot in to the gear as much as I could with the nut. This gave me almost instant brake input and full resolution :)

I did a few laps with a single white bushing per Mr. Basher and found the pedals were now working properly (after calibrating in iRacing). The feel of the brake is quite heavy as well as stiff. It will take some getting used to, but is now worth practicing with :D

I've decided not to put the checker plate heel rest back on as I'm a sock racer. I'll look into modding it back on if necessary :)
 
pilmat
The job is only big in that it took me a whole day :irked: There is less than $10 of materials, but many hours of fitting.

I really like your cable management Marcus :) It inspired me to do my rig in a similar fashion. I used small strips of double sided tape and then put a similar width piece of aluminum tape over the top to "clamp" the cables. At the shop we can have a good bit of dust when building NASCARs, so the exposed double sided tape would get 'furry' pretty quick :lol:


Back on topic :) Here is the modded pedals from the bottom, showing some of the extent of the mod. The pot cover on the throttle is removed.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same thing, wasn't easy cutting them like that and arranging the pedals back. good job 👍
Wow, thanks for showing the bottom, I guess inside is cable only instead of potentiometer(pardon my ignorance ,I never openned mine)
 
Sorry, I didn't mean that's where you could buy it. ;) I meant, I'd get the one from cxc if I were to spend that kind of money on something like that.
 
mrbasher
Sorry, I didn't mean that's where you could buy it. ;) I meant, I'd get the one from cxc if I were to spend that kind of money on something like that.
Click to expand...

Or you could do this :D


And put it under this:

​

So long as you do this too:

​

That was the trial mount of our DBox system. It has since been mounted fore/aft for easy control box mounting.

Videos to follow :P
 
JogoAsobi
Wow did you do the plate for the actuators there or is that one of the magnesium ones from HRC?
Click to expand...

That's ours :) It's aluminum and fits the rig like a glove. We are just finishing the full build (tucking away wires, fitting control boxes, etc.) and should be fully running by the end of the week. I'll do more pictures and get some video up!

It seems like it has taken forever to get this done, but I've also started a speed shop (race parts) and been trying to do our winter development in our NASCAR Canadian Tire team (not to mention getting ready to do a couple of K&N East races).
 
Gran Turismo 5 Update 2.10 Released

Here is a complete list of documented changes as reported by Polyphony Digital:
- Adjusted performance point calculations to correct an issue where the speed of cars in races with PP (Performance Point) restrictions would be matched unfairly.
- Adjusted the engine sound of the Honda Weider HSV-010(Super GT) ’11.
- Improved the force feedback control of the Thrustmaster T500RS Steering wheel controller to improve steering feel.
This improvement will allow more precise countersteer on dirt and while drifting.

https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turismo-5-update-2-10-released-brings-2014-corvette-stingray-as-free-dlc/
 
I haven't yet ever drifted nor rode dirt since I got this fine wheel 3 months ago, I think now's a great time to give it a try. Can anyone comment on any changes to feel in regular driving conditions? as long as they are for the better, is all that counts. I love the smoothness and light feel at the wheel from driving MR cars at the Nurburgring.
 
That wheel look really really nice

2wdak38.jpg


Here is mine. Went more of the budget route. RMD Malaga 320 mm wheel. . As you can see it dwarves my monitor a bit but after heavy acclimatisation it doesn´t feel like I am driving lorrys that much anymore though I would say 320 mm is a bit borderline on to bulky for an allround wheel. But nice companion to the F1 wheel. The F1 integral and G27 wheel integrate a bit better with the monitor as they are scaled accordingly :)

Love the Suede. It will leave finger prints and show use but it´s racing so that´s okay. It gives me the grip I must have with the T500RS capabilities.
 
Have anyone tried the Wheel Stand Pro (V2?) Deluxe and the T500RS-combo? I think I might need to one, if it's not wobbling, like hell :boggled:.
 

Similar threads

W
Thrustmaster T300 wheelbase with Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals?
Replies
22
Views
2K
Oshawa-Joe
Oshawa-Joe
T
Drivehub Can I recognize Simagic TB-RS and Thirstmaster TH8A on PS5?
Replies
4
Views
407
touge_meister
T
Famine
Thrustmaster Reveals New TH8S Shifter Add-On
Replies
8
Views
4K
BWK_TERROR
BWK_TERROR
L
Thrustmaster T500 rs Why cannot support on PS5 and GT7?
Replies
5
Views
6K
Famine
Famine
S
Latest drivers and firmware Thrustmaster T500RS
Replies
1
Views
1K
suheyl
S

Latest Posts

Back