The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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I thought someone posted something similar, he ended up having to shim the PS/2 connector between the wheel and wheel base to make it connect better.

This happens to me some times when I am running the GTE wheel. Though TBH I always felt GTE was a bit suspect in build quality since I had it.
 
Hi All

Just a small update.

I received the replacement Circuit Board from Thrustmaster last week. And today I've purchased the tool required to swap the thing out.

I plan to start working on the wheel tonight. I really hope this works. If not I'll have to buy another T500RS

Pray for me people!
 
GSXR Gaz Mc;29071107
so how did u get on in the end, did u get a new PCB ?
Click to expand...

I got the pcb last week.

Today I went out and purchased some screw drivers and a soldering kit. Got home around 7pm and got to work






Faulty board


Its taken almost 3 hours to complete a 20 min job. I haven't used a soldering iron since secondary school... I hope I never have to use one again. It's been a painful process.. burnt myself multiple times.

Anyway once fully connected and resealed. I plugged it in. And powered it on. Nothing happened :( . At that point I was thinking **** this. I'm not giving up. So I put the usb cable into my PC...... The bloody wheel started to boot up. I almost cried. I'm so happy right now lol




The power light.... It's shines!!!
 
skazz
It's worth pointing out that Thrustmaster themselves starting selling new T500s with longer screws in the shaft from about mid 2013. If you have a GT6 branded T500 it should definitely have longer screws than the early versions being discussed in John's linked thread.
Click to expand...


Somewhere in this mega thread are several post about using longer screws to permanently fix the 4 screws coming loose problem. I used longer screws to replace the 4 that came with the T500 a couple of years ago on my nearly 5 year old V3 and they haven't been loose since. No Loctite or any thing like that, just the screws.
 
I know many people post here but I would like to know whats the difference between GT5 edition and GT6 edition? I caught my eyes T500RS great price for GT5 edition this is why I wonder if it's worth to get or not.
Thank you.
 
HeroStar1988
I know many people post here but I would like to know whats the difference between GT5 edition and GT6 edition? I caught my eyes T500RS great price for GT5 edition this is why I wonder if it's worth to get or not.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Depending on the age of the GT5 branded box, it could be tiny or could be more significant. The thing is that Thrustmaster changed the GT5 branded T500 over the course of 2-3 years without revising the box appearance. So the final GT5 branded T500s from mid 2013 got all of the first 6 items in the list below, only the 7th one is unique to the GT6 branded T500 which arrived in late 2013.

The changes during the life of the T500 from the earliest release until the current model are:
1. Compression springs replacing the torsion springs in the pedals (they used to break)
2. Longer bolts in the steering shaft (they would come loose or even break)
3. Different placement of the fan (it used to blow down, now it blows across)
4. Cut-out into the top of the body for the fan blowing down was removed in later models
5. Fan was changed to a different type which makes less noise and lasts better
6. Plastic inside the case to aid the airflow was removed, the fan now blows straight over the motor
7. 4 fake(?) bolts were added along the top of the body
 
Having the old torsion spring pedals myself, I saw no disadvantage until I decided to install an aftermarket load cell. Then they required some minor drilling that makes the install difficult to reverse.
 
Which version of the T500 is sold now?
My T500 from 2011 has a really noisy fan. Is the newer version quieter? Are there any other improvements?

EDIT: Aaaand if I had bothered to move my eyes two posts up, I would have seen that @skazz had already answered all my questions. :lol:

EDIT2: Actually, I'm still wondering: Which version number are we looking for? Could it be that some web shops are still sitting on older revisions? Or is everyone selling the newest now?
 
Last edited:
skazz
If you see a GT6 box, then you're fine. If you see a GT5 box you might be fine. I think all recent T500s will be GT6, but no guarantees of course.
Click to expand...
Yeah, customer service on chat confirmed that it's a "blue box with GT6 logo", so I should be good. :)
 
I've recently upgraded to a T500 after years of using a Fanatec Turbo-S, the difference is something else. I got a Basherboards GPX to go with it.
I couldn't believe how much power and detail it could deliver in comparison.
One thing I just can't get used to is the static shifters though, I found a nearly new Ferrari rim on EBay and I pulled the trigger on it.
After patch 10 on Project Cars and Jack Spades settings it feels sublime.
 
question...my t300 stopped working and is out of warranty and i am wanting to upgrade to t500..tm told me it is not working on ps4 now..any one confirm this?
 
The T500 works "in game" in every current driving game on PS4, but doesn't work to control the PS4 menus. So you have to keep a controller handy.

Personally owning both the T300 and T500 I feel that the T300 compromises are better, and I prefer it over the T500... But that's because I prioritize low mechanical drag above maximum power. Both wheels are much better than the Logitech alternative in my experience.
 
There are no guarantees, but the T500 has had a long life in which Thrustmaster changed effectively all the real weak spots (as has been discussed many times in this thread).

The external power brick and older style brushed motor (which feels less smooth but requires less complex software to control) are indeed probably less prone to issues than the T300's equivalents.
 
I've had a perfectly working T500 since November of 2012. The torsion springs in the brake pedal kept breaking every 6 to 9 months and Thrustmaster kept sending me replacement (torsion) springs. However, I tired of the routine, especially knowing that it was a temporary repair and finally got a set of the T3PA pedals when they became available and found them delightful.

Last week I bought the relatively new PS4 version of DIRT Rally and found it difficult to get the wheel to work with the game settings. My research indicated that the wheel needed to be set for somewhere between 270 and 400 degrees so I thought I'd plug my wheel into my PC and open up the Thrustmaster Control Panel to check (and adjust) the wheel rotation if need be. In going about this, I noticed that there was an updated driver available for the T500 so I figured I'd download and install it while I was at it. I had used the Control Panel several times before and was familiar with how to update the driver. Just to be sure, i re-read the pdf that Thrustmaster has posted on their site showing the correct procedure.

While doing the update, I got a message at the bottom of the screen saying that there was an error and the driver did not install correctly. At this point now, the wheel is dead and won't power up. It had been working perfectly for 3.5 years and now suddenly is rendered useless just because I tried to update the driver using Thrustmaster's instructions.

Naturally, I contacted Customer Service by phone and spent a very long time going over the procedure with the tech and trying a variety of things he suggested (including using 3 different computers ) to get the driver to update and install correctly. Nothing seemed to work and he suggested sending the wheel in for repair. We went over the costs of shipping both ways to Canada (including customs fees) and the minimum repair cost came to well over a couple hundred dollars. I was quite upset about the fact that the wheel had been working perfectly up until the point when I tried to install the new driver. It just didn't seem to be my fault. Thrustmaster was cold and firm in their policy .... it's out of warranty so it's not their problem !

This is their way of explaining to me why it isn't their fault (and this is a direct cut & paste from their email)

"The Firmware Update procedure itself cannot and does not damage the device, but an eventual power and communication problems with the USB ports of the PC may lead to this type of situation."

So I'm posting this here today as a heads up to what you can expect from Thrustmaster customer service. I'll also mention that they (repair facility) do not take any form of payment other than PayPal so if you don't have an account, you simply can't do business with them.

I had no choice but to replace the wheel with a T300 since that's all I can afford now. I find it far inferior to the T500 based upon the noticeable dead spot in the center and decreased laptimes in the same cars on the same tracks. When I plug the T300 into the Thrustmaster Control Panel, the display is different than it used to be with the T500 and it doesn't have any of the adjustments as the T500 did. If anyone knows how to remove the noticeable dead spot from the wheel, please let me know how (game settings and calibrations all have dead spots set to zero).
 
ANFD
I've had a perfectly working T500 since November of 2012. The torsion springs in the brake pedal kept breaking every 6 to 9 months and Thrustmaster kept sending me replacement (torsion) springs. However, I tired of the routine, especially knowing that it was a temporary repair and finally got a set of the T3PA pedals when they became available and found them delightful.

Last week I bought the relatively new PS4 version of DIRT Rally and found it difficult to get the wheel to work with the game settings. My research indicated that the wheel needed to be set for somewhere between 270 and 400 degrees so I thought I'd plug my wheel into my PC and open up the Thrustmaster Control Panel to check (and adjust) the wheel rotation if need be. In going about this, I noticed that there was an updated driver available for the T500 so I figured I'd download and install it while I was at it. I had used the Control Panel several times before and was familiar with how to update the driver. Just to be sure, i re-read the pdf that Thrustmaster has posted on their site showing the correct procedure.

While doing the update, I got a message at the bottom of the screen saying that there was an error and the driver did not install correctly. At this point now, the wheel is dead and won't power up. It had been working perfectly for 3.5 years and now suddenly is rendered useless just because I tried to update the driver using Thrustmaster's instructions.

Naturally, I contacted Customer Service by phone and spent a very long time going over the procedure with the tech and trying a variety of things he suggested (including using 3 different computers ) to get the driver to update and install correctly. Nothing seemed to work and he suggested sending the wheel in for repair. We went over the costs of shipping both ways to Canada (including customs fees) and the minimum repair cost came to well over a couple hundred dollars. I was quite upset about the fact that the wheel had been working perfectly up until the point when I tried to install the new driver. It just didn't seem to be my fault. Thrustmaster was cold and firm in their policy .... it's out of warranty so it's not their problem !

This is their way of explaining to me why it isn't their fault (and this is a direct cut & paste from their email)

"The Firmware Update procedure itself cannot and does not damage the device, but an eventual power and communication problems with the USB ports of the PC may lead to this type of situation."

So I'm posting this here today as a heads up to what you can expect from Thrustmaster customer service. I'll also mention that they (repair facility) do not take any form of payment other than PayPal so if you don't have an account, you simply can't do business with them.

I had no choice but to replace the wheel with a T300 since that's all I can afford now. I find it far inferior to the T500 based upon the noticeable dead spot in the center and decreased laptimes in the same cars on the same tracks. When I plug the T300 into the Thrustmaster Control Panel, the display is different than it used to be with the T500 and it doesn't have any of the adjustments as the T500 did. If anyone knows how to remove the noticeable dead spot from the wheel, please let me know how (game settings and calibrations all have dead spots set to zero).
Click to expand...

Same stuff i was told about my 300..real close to just buying a g29
 
The T300 and T500 have identical options in drivers.

Sounds like your PC drivers are not working right, and the T300 is being used as a generic controller, making it seem horrible. You will really have to uninstall the drivers very carefully and reinstall them without the wheel plugged in, then plug it in at the time you are told to.
 
skazz
The T300 and T500 have identical options in drivers.

Sounds like your PC drivers are not working right, and the T300 is being used as a generic controller, making it seem horrible. You will really have to uninstall the drivers very carefully and reinstall them without the wheel plugged in, then plug it in at the time you are told to.
Click to expand...

I followed the procedure to the letter. Then I also did it step by step with the Thrustmaster CR tech on the phone. I did it on three different PCs and had the same result each time. There's no way I'm going to jepardize the new T300 by installing another driver.
 
ANFD
I've had a perfectly working T500 since November of 2012. The torsion springs in the brake pedal kept breaking every 6 to 9 months and Thrustmaster kept sending me replacement (torsion) springs. However, I tired of the routine, especially knowing that it was a temporary repair and finally got a set of the T3PA pedals when they became available and found them delightful.

Last week I bought the relatively new PS4 version of DIRT Rally and found it difficult to get the wheel to work with the game settings. My research indicated that the wheel needed to be set for somewhere between 270 and 400 degrees so I thought I'd plug my wheel into my PC and open up the Thrustmaster Control Panel to check (and adjust) the wheel rotation if need be. In going about this, I noticed that there was an updated driver available for the T500 so I figured I'd download and install it while I was at it. I had used the Control Panel several times before and was familiar with how to update the driver. Just to be sure, i re-read the pdf that Thrustmaster has posted on their site showing the correct procedure.

While doing the update, I got a message at the bottom of the screen saying that there was an error and the driver did not install correctly. At this point now, the wheel is dead and won't power up. It had been working perfectly for 3.5 years and now suddenly is rendered useless just because I tried to update the driver using Thrustmaster's instructions.

Naturally, I contacted Customer Service by phone and spent a very long time going over the procedure with the tech and trying a variety of things he suggested (including using 3 different computers ) to get the driver to update and install correctly. Nothing seemed to work and he suggested sending the wheel in for repair. We went over the costs of shipping both ways to Canada (including customs fees) and the minimum repair cost came to well over a couple hundred dollars. I was quite upset about the fact that the wheel had been working perfectly up until the point when I tried to install the new driver. It just didn't seem to be my fault. Thrustmaster was cold and firm in their policy .... it's out of warranty so it's not their problem !

This is their way of explaining to me why it isn't their fault (and this is a direct cut & paste from their email)

"The Firmware Update procedure itself cannot and does not damage the device, but an eventual power and communication problems with the USB ports of the PC may lead to this type of situation."

So I'm posting this here today as a heads up to what you can expect from Thrustmaster customer service. I'll also mention that they (repair facility) do not take any form of payment other than PayPal so if you don't have an account, you simply can't do business with them.

I had no choice but to replace the wheel with a T300 since that's all I can afford now. I find it far inferior to the T500 based upon the noticeable dead spot in the center and decreased laptimes in the same cars on the same tracks. When I plug the T300 into the Thrustmaster Control Panel, the display is different than it used to be with the T500 and it doesn't have any of the adjustments as the T500 did. If anyone knows how to remove the noticeable dead spot from the wheel, please let me know how (game settings and calibrations all have dead spots set to zero).
Click to expand...

There is a boot loader method to follow if you have a firmware update failure -- you MUST NOT attempt to do a firmware update when using a USB 3.0 (blue) USB port on your PC . . . you MUST use a "standard" USB 2.0 port (black). There is a way to recover from a bad firmware update -- can't find the process at the moment. I will continue searching and post it here when I do find it. Your wheel is probably easily repairable by you, so don't bin it just yet.

EDITED TO ADD: Here you go:

Link: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500RS_Bootloader_Method.pdf

Again, DO NOT PLUG YOUR T500 INTO A BLUE (USB 3.0) PORT TO DO THIS -- USE A BLACK USB 2.0 PORT ONLY.
 
I sure wish you had posted this sooner :-) I vaguely remembered the issue with using a USB3.0 port and I specifically asked the Thrustmaster tech on the phone if that might have been the problem and he insisted that it wouldn't make a difference (I was using a 3.0 port). I've already sold the wheel on Craig's List so I guess I should have waited. I sure appreciate your time and effort in finding the pdf you included. I guess I shouldn't have assumed that the Thrustmaster tech (Bryan) knew what he was talking about. Thanks again for your help John :-)
 
Is sam maxwell still selling the aftermarket wheels with the integrated button for TM500/300?

Other wise i will buy a DSD adaptor and google how to dos electronics lol
 
MrF1
Is sam maxwell still selling the aftermarket wheels with the integrated button for TM500/300?

Other wise i will buy a DSD adaptor and google how to dos electronics lol
Click to expand...

Ricmotech sells them,check them out.
 
Hi,

I will never use the clutch on the T500 pedals. Is it possible to reposition the brake pedal into the clutch position, or a method to physically disconnect the clutch wires?

Thanks.
 
fishfash
Hi,

I will never use the clutch on the T500 pedals. Is it possible to reposition the brake pedal into the clutch position, or a method to physically disconnect the clutch wires?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

You can assign the brake to the clutch pedal in most games I you want. I've assigned my clutch pedal as a handbrake in some rally type games. I'm used to the brake pedal where it is. No reason to disconnect the pedal. Assign it to headlights or look up or leave it unassigned.
 
Ledbetter
You can assign the brake to the clutch pedal in most games I you want. I've assigned my clutch pedal as a handbrake in some rally type games. I'm used to the brake pedal where it is. No reason to disconnect the pedal. Assign it to headlights or look up or leave it unassigned.
Click to expand...

I always left foot brake and find the brake and accelerator pedal too close to each other for comfort.

I am a console user, I guess project cars should give me the option to reassign, however I won't be able to use the brake mod.

The reason I wanted to disconnect the clutch is so that I could make a single metal plate and join the clutch and brake together. I did that with my clubsport pedals and it's perfect for comfort.
 

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