The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Having an issue with a T500 a friend gave me a while back. He accidentally ripped off the connector on the pedals cable, so I took some RJ12 connector and modified it. There was somehow some electricity going on because I had some reactions, but the pedals were not working properly (can't accelerate, brake won't go much over 50%). I was thinking the modified RJ12 was not good enough, so I bought a T300 basic twin pedal set from a guy who upgraded to try. Turns out I have the same issue, so it looks like the receiver on the wheel base is somehow damaged.

I wonder if one of you has experienced this and come with a way to fix that.
 
You know, I'm actually considering "downgrading" back to my G27, the ridiculous jitter when its straight on is so annoying, you have to be turning slightly left or right to get rid of it, we can say whatever about the G27, but when it was centred, this never happened, responsive when turning and stable when straight.

Anyone know how to calibrate a slight deadzone into the T500RS? I wouldn't want one ordinarily, but I think it would cure this, just... 3-5 degrees should be enough
 
Conza
You know, I'm actually considering "downgrading" back to my G27, the ridiculous jitter when its straight on is so annoying, you have to be turning slightly left or right to get rid of it, we can say whatever about the G27, but when it was centred, this never happened, responsive when turning and stable when straight.

Anyone know how to calibrate a slight deadzone into the T500RS? I wouldn't want one ordinarily, but I think it would cure this, just... 3-5 degrees should be enough
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Which game are you getting this problem with? It really shouldn't be happening, so if you explain which game and which settings we can probably help you get rid of the jitter.

A dead zone would be the absolute worst thing to do..
 
skazz
Which game are you getting this problem with? It really shouldn't be happening, so if you explain which game and which settings we can probably help you get rid of the jitter.

A dead zone would be the absolute worst thing to do..
Click to expand...
Yes you're right, that's the main thing - It's happening on PS3 with GT6, which is why I'm concerned I won't be able to calibrate a dead zone.

A similar thing would happen with the G27 if I completely took my hands off the wheel, it would go off centre and then start wildly steering (extremely unrealistic). With the T500RS I must turn slightly left or right otherwise its jittering in the extreme on centre, very irritating.

A slight deadzone would be far more preferable.
 
Conza
FFB Max Torque - 7

FFB Sensitivity - 10

I previously ran these both at 10/10 with other controllers. According to this page... http://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt6/manual/#!/howtorace/drivingoption

I should turn sensitivity down, and torque is only about the power of the resistance when its happening (eg. shouldn't make a difference to 'when' torque is applied).
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Try sensitivity at 1 and torque at 2-3. Your current settings give you jitter, clipping and must be really hard work to use.
 
It never happend with my T500. Of course, i only own it for a month, but it's used allready and work great in every situation.

Hope it still this way.
 
skazz
Try sensitivity at 1 and torque at 2-3. Your current settings give you jitter, clipping and must be really hard work to use.
Click to expand...

But if it's a problem with clipping, wouldn't a G27 do the same thing? Since the mechanicals are pretty much the same.

Edit: sorry, disregard that. I thought this was the G29 thread. I would imagine having settings that high with a T500 would feel like it was tearing your arms off.
 
skazz
Try sensitivity at 1 and torque at 2-3. Your current settings give you jitter, clipping and must be really hard work to use.
Click to expand...

How do you know if the wheel is clipping? In Iracing there's a bar graph to show when the wheel is clipping but not on gt6.

I run 0 sensitivity, 8FFB torque, 8ffb sensitivity. I do notice the steering wheel doesn't like to go straight on the straights like @Conza but I've gotten used to it.
 
GT6 doesn't have a clipping meter, of course, so the best way to tell is to find some nice high speed corners and drive over rumble strips. If you can feel the strips then the wheel probably isn't clipping.

I've not driven GT6 in a while (my PS3 died so I bought a Ps4 instead) but from what I could recall anything above FFB torque 3 in a typical RWD car felt like you were just fighting the wheel. I personally prefer FFB to give me information but not to actually have to fight it, so I use FFB Torque at 1-3 depending on the car (race cars would be 1-2, up to slow FWD using 3 or even 4).

But anyway, the sensitivity is causing the jitter, turn it down and the wheel remains smooth and stable on straights.
 
Hey there, will look through the thread for more info but does anyone have or seen a guide for replacing the fan in the wheel? the bearings or something seem to have gone and it is making a lot of horrible noise.

Contacted thrustmaster but don't have proof of purchase anymore so they won't repair.

Thanks :)

Actually, having had a look have ordered a Noctua NF-A6x25, will hopefully be able to make the change easily myself
 
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JamboGT
Hey there, will look through the thread for more info but does anyone have or seen a guide for replacing the fan in the wheel? the bearings or something seem to have gone and it is making a lot of horrible noise.

Contacted thrustmaster but don't have proof of purchase anymore so they won't repair.

Thanks :)

Actually, having had a look have ordered a Noctua NF-A6x25, will hopefully be able to make the change easily myself
Click to expand...

I don't know about the T500, but I've found instructions online for the T300. The fan in my T300 started making that kind of noise a while ago too, so I bought a fan to replace it (those fans are really cheap, I got one for $5). But it stopped making noise for the last few months, so I haven't replaced it yet. For the T300 at least, there really is nothing to it. You just have to open up the case, and the fan is connected with a single plug and is held on by 2 screws. The most complicated part is really just opening up the case properly without breaking clips and stuff. But even in the instructions I found, the guy broke the clips on purpose so he wouldn't have to deal with them in the future, so it doesn't really seem like the clips serve an essential function.
 
Awong124
I don't know about the T500, but I've found instructions online for the T300. The fan in my T300 started making that kind of noise a while ago too, so I bought a fan to replace it (those fans are really cheap, I got one for $5). But it stopped making noise for the last few months, so I haven't replaced it yet. For the T300 at least, there really is nothing to it. You just have to open up the case, and the fan is connected with a single plug and is held on by 2 screws. The most complicated part is really just opening up the case properly without breaking clips and stuff. But even in the instructions I found, the guy broke the clips on purpose so he wouldn't have to deal with them in the future, so it doesn't really seem like the clips serve an essential function.
Click to expand...
T500 is much much more annoying to open up than the T300, sadly.

I know there are YouTube videos and forum posts explaining how to dismantle the T500. I seem to recall an excellent one on the Assetto Corsa forum for the T500, from middle of last year.
 
Thanks for the replies, yeah found a decent guide and looks like it will be easy enough, fingers crossed!

Also managed to pick up the GTE wheel on ebay for £30! Wheel mounted paddles from now on :D
 
JamboGT
Thanks for the replies, yeah found a decent guide and looks like it will be easy enough, fingers crossed!

Also managed to pick up the GTE wheel on ebay for £30! Wheel mounted paddles from now on :D
Click to expand...

Any chance you could keep this updated with your progress ?
I have the original T500 version 1 and have been very lucky with its life span so far but my fan is getting noisier and hotter.
I would be grateful if you could possibly share your guide and the exact replacement fan that you are going to use.
Thanks.
 
Found my old links in a reminder:

T500 (early model with fan up top):
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...n-adjustment-guide-and-fan-replacement.25131/

T300/TX (same internals):
How to open and change fan:
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/
How to tension belt:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...300-has-died&p=1064715&viewfull=1#post1064715


Note that mid 2013 the fan position on the T500 changed from top facing down to mounted blowing horizontally. The newer fan was also a lot less noisy. The link above is for an early model T500.
 
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image.png
Thanks for the response Skazz,
Clicked on your first link for the early model but it says that I don't have permission to view the link even tho I'm registered and signed in, any ideas ? Thanks again bud.
 
Very strange.... I tested the link on two devices here and it worked fine. It's in the controllers and peripherals sub forum.

Do you have your steam account associated with your AC forum account?
 
skazz
Very strange.... I tested the link on two devices here and it worked fine. It's in the controllers and peripherals sub forum.

Do you have your steam account associated with your AC forum account?
Click to expand...
Cheers Skazz I associated my steam account and that fixed it.
 
Hopefully the fan arrives today and I will see about getting some pictures taken and update how easy (or hard) it is to change it :)

Fan arrived but didn't get a chance as I had to work late yesterday!

New edit!

So, I wasn't able to do it last night either as the screwdriver I had was too thick to remove the outer casing screws :/ was using one of those with the different bits. Going to pick up a new screwdriver and do this over the weekend.

I did however do something that many probably think is sacrilegious, I removed the spring from the brake to make it easier to fully push. I spent so long using older wheels with softer brakes that I am used to it and even after a few years of the T500 my braking still isn't what it used to be.
 
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Is there anything that could cause most of the buttons to be on 24/7? I got this free from a friend so it's not a big deal. But he did replace the motherboard and cut out a hole on the back, so it might be beyond fixing.
 
A hole in the motherboard is never a good thing...

So, got my fan, got the wheel apart and got it back together, totally forgot to take any pics.... Sorry about that.

The process is generally quite easy but I struggled to get the case back on, there are two holes that needs to slip over two parts that was really tough to do, other than that it was simple enough. Seems a good job so far.
 
Recently started removing my wheel from the base while playing other games so that its not blocking my monitor.

Do I have to tighten the screw all the time when I reattach my wheel to use it? Used it once without the screw and it seems ok. If I have to tighten the screw it will be be very cumbersome.

Hope to hear other owners thoughts especially those whose change the wheel often.
 
Soulfresh_ACV
Recently started removing my wheel from the base while playing other games so that its not blocking my monitor.

Do I have to tighten the screw all the time when I reattach my wheel to use it? Used it once without the screw and it seems ok. If I have to tighten the screw it will be be very cumbersome.

Hope to hear other owners thoughts especially those whose change the wheel often.
Click to expand...
As the mounting ring has nothing else to hold it in, the force feedback is going to work it loose and it will one day come off in your hands.

You will get away with it for a while, but with nothing stopping it, it will work loose.
 
Since there's no other real locking mechanism. I have a screw driver lying around and always screw the screw up when I put on a rim. Just don't want to have to think about the thread coming loose while racing :)
 

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