Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

  • Thread starter Pennzoil23
  • 640 comments
  • 258,596 views
First post so be gentle.

Getting mine delivered on Tuesday (UK), ordered direct from TM website around 2 weeks ago. Really looking forward to setting them up and having a play. I’m coming from T3PAs with conical mod so hope I can feel the difference. Mainly play GTS (hurry up ACC on PS4) and use T300. All bolted on a Playseat Challenge so hopefully the thing won’t lift under heavy breaking.

You’ll definitely feel a difference, spend some time playing with springs, they blow the conical mod out of the water
 
You’ll definitely feel a difference, spend some time playing with springs, they blow the conical mod out of the water

First impressions are really good. I’ve definitely got some adjusting to do in the sense of moving to pressure vs travel on the brake pedal but it certainly ‘feels’ better than the T3PAs. I’ve kept the default springs in for now, added 3 washers on the pre-load and find reducing the brake force to around 55/60% in the cal software to have helped maintain some consistency. I’ve only played GT Sport so far but will see how they are with Assetto Corsa tomorrow.

I’d love to stick both red springs in but I think that would pull my Playseat Challenge apart under heavy breaking.

To summarise - so far so good.
 
Really really like the pedals. But has anyone found a way to secure them to a wheelstand pro? Mine are currently gaffer taped down which works well but not ideal.
 
Really really like the pedals. But has anyone found a way to secure them to a wheelstand pro? Mine are currently gaffer taped down which works well but not ideal.

Not got a wheelstand pro, but I use a playseat challenge which is a similar pedal mount. I just bolted a flat metal bar from the underneath into the central mounting point of the pedals. My brake force is at 60% and it doesn’t move at all.
 

Attachments

  • 1511FF5C-E66A-4D1A-9452-B632EE8A0492.jpeg
    1511FF5C-E66A-4D1A-9452-B632EE8A0492.jpeg
    70 KB · Views: 275
I tried a bunch of different configurations with the springs and settled on red on the bottom and grey on the top. Then turned the brake force up to 85 through the calibration software and it's the perfect setup for me. I'm continuing to beat a lot of my old DR2 times.



Just ordered one. Not sure if it's needed, cause I really have no complaints regarding the feel of the brake pedal. But for that price I'll give it a try.
@JeffKill Did you get the brake mod from Apex V2R? It would be great if you could share some impressions, how does it change the feel, is it better or not really? Even though $30 is not much money, it's still quite a bit for essentially a rubber ring so some first-hand impressions would help a lot. Thanks!
 
@JeffKill Did you get the brake mod from Apex V2R? It would be great if you could share some impressions, how does it change the feel, is it better or not really? Even though $30 is not much money, it's still quite a bit for essentially a rubber ring so some first-hand impressions would help a lot. Thanks!

I did order it but no matter what configuration I tried with the springs, I just wasn't a fan. It drastically decreased pedal travel. I currently have the red spring on the bottom and grey spring on top with no spacers installed and I'm really happy with it.
 
First post member :) Joined as just got my set of the T-LCM pedals, will update on my tests soon, coming from a G29 pedal set im sure it will be an adjustment hahaha

Having a look at the calibration software and given I am not hard mounitng this I think a lower brake force will work better, about 25% seems to feel good so far...?
 
Surprisingly I adapted very fast to the load cells. I read everywhere that people use brake force around to 70%. I felt it way more comfortable to use the lowest Force. I have 100% brake output at 15% brake force. I find it easier to trail brake this way, but I still have to adjust it on different combos. Does anyone else use that less brake force?
I use the red spring at the bottom and the black one one the top due to have a short pedal travel to reach the 100% brake output.

Yep I am trying out settings around 25% in ACC at the moment, my pedals are against the wall so I cant have it require too much pressure like I could if they were mounted... I still suck though as I just got into sim racing in the last couple of months but this feels like I can be consisitent now, and only have myself to blame not the G29 pedals hahaha :)
 
Hey guys, before I browse through the whole thread, question. Got my T-LCM today and when I launch the calibration software, this is what I get. Pedals are plugged into the T300 wheelbase and are recognised in the control panel and they work in ACC just fine, but can't calibrate them. Help?
TM_Sim_Pedals_Calibration_Tool_V2_15_50MgAEBxkk.png


EDIT: Ok, when I plug in the USB into the pedals, the pedals show up in the calibration software. So do I have to have both connected? RJ12 into the wheel and USB into PC?

EDIT: Ok, just read the manual, it says to connect the USB cable and remove RJ12 for calibration. Gotcha. I might as well just not bother with RJ12 and plug directly into USB then.
 
Last edited:
EDIT: Ok, when I plug in the USB into the pedals, the pedals show up in the calibration software. So do I have to have both connected? RJ12 into the wheel and USB into PC?

To be on the safe side only connect one, either to USB or to wheelbase, not both.

It's OK to leave both cables connected to the pedals as long as only one is plugged in at the other end.

For PC use connecting via USB seems to be the way to go, to get higher resolution and easy access to the calibration tool.

I only just got mine as well, so far I've been swapping connection when I've wanted to tweak and TBH it hasn't been often :) Eventually I'll switch to using them on USB and reconfigure all my sims I guess.
 
To be on the safe side only connect one, either to USB or to wheelbase, not both.

It's OK to leave both cables connected to the pedals as long as only one is plugged in at the other end.

For PC use connecting via USB seems to be the way to go, to get higher resolution and easy access to the calibration tool.

I only just got mine as well, so far I've been swapping connection when I've wanted to tweak and TBH it hasn't been often :) Eventually I'll switch to using them on USB and reconfigure all my sims I guess.
Yeah, I'll only be using USB seeing as it's needed for calibration and has higher resolution through USB.
 
PSA: if you upgrade to the T-LCM from a non load cell set, and you play iRacing:

Make sure you go into your settings and reduce the brake force factor to zero.

I’m not sure how the setting actually works, but if you have it set to anything higher than zero it assumes you don’t have a load cell and tries to approximate one.

I switched this off after not realizing it was on for a week and the result has been much more consistent braking, and far less fluctuation in my lap times.
 
Yep I am trying out settings around 25% in ACC at the moment, my pedals are against the wall so I cant have it require too much pressure like I could if they were mounted... I still suck though as I just got into sim racing in the last couple of months but this feels like I can be consisitent now, and only have myself to blame not the G29 pedals hahaha :)

I think you need to be careful going as low as 25% otherwise the brake will be operating more based on travel rather than utilising the load cell.
 
I think you need to be careful going as low as 25% otherwise the brake will be operating more based on travel rather than utilising the load cell.

Yep you are correct mate, I managed to find a way to stop my chair moving backwards hahaha - things i never had to consider with a G29 pedal set, so now running about 60% :)
 
Yep you are correct mate, I managed to find a way to stop my chair moving backwards hahaha - things i never had to consider with a G29 pedal set, so now running about 60% :)

I’ve up graded from the pedals I had with a g27 about 10 years ago and am mounted to a playseat challenge. I was trying to keep it low as only held together by Velcro strap. But but a couple of dumbbell weights on end to help weight down and now using red spring at bottom and brake force of 75 and liking it. Although I have also had to go from socks to a very thin sole trainer for first time ever. Although also experiments with the very low tec wrist sweat band around bottom of foot for added cushioning in place a trainer.

I view The brake force calibration setting more like a linearity tool and springs are more the strength setting.
 
I got my T-LCM pedals delivered on April 7th. These pedals replaced the T3PA pedals that I wasn't happy with. That clicking noise every time I braked was very annoying until the brake spring broke. I replaced it with a brand new brake spring which was doing the same thing.

The T-LCM pedals are a huge upgrade and blows the T3PA out of the water. I placed the red spring on the bottom and black spring on the top while setting the brake force at 30% in the calibration tool app. The braking precision and consistency of the pedals are great and I'm very happy with it.
 
So I have a question, what if I just plug these into my t300 wheel base out of the box and jump right into Gran Turismo sport? Will they work good? Or is calibration a must?
 
So I have a question, what if I just plug these into my t300 wheel base out of the box and jump right into Gran Turismo sport? Will they work good? Or is calibration a must?
I don't have these but I've heard they're fine out of the box. The calibration is more of a handy extra tuning tool to personalise your setting preference than anything I think. However you will have to update your T300 base from the Drivers section here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rs-en/
 
So I have a question, what if I just plug these into my t300 wheel base out of the box and jump right into Gran Turismo sport? Will they work good? Or is calibration a must?

Like @FPV MIC said, the wheel base needs to be on the latest firmware but yes, they work out of the box. The LED on the wheel base will flash 5 times on start up with the pedals attached which shows its working correctly.

The calibration software is to tweak deadzones, brake force % etc. And is certainly a must if you change any of the springs from the default settings.
 
So I have a question, what if I just plug these into my t300 wheel base out of the box and jump right into Gran Turismo sport? Will they work good? Or is calibration a must?

I used them straight out box on all my games before I started playing around with springs /settings and they worked on all games however gt sport was the worst game, as was only getting about 70-80% brake power
 
I did a thing!

full


It's just a few 3D printed parts, a GTEYE Logitech brake spring, and a silicone stopper with its end chopped off, but it feels pretty good :)

Now need to do a bit of trial-and-error to see how many of the washers to use and what length of stopper.

Really nice of TM to come out with something we can set up how we like :D

IMG_2402 (Custom).JPG


IMG_2403 (Custom).JPG


IMG_2405 (Custom).JPG


Silicone Bung / Stopper is #18 from this ebay listing.

edit: attached the OpenSCAD file for making the pieces (remove the .txt extension leaving .scad)...
 

Attachments

  • T-LCM_spring_parts.scad.txt
    1 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:
Annoying spring noise in the accelerator, guessing it is an easy fix. Sounds like a spring catches just as you press (about 5% down).

Any ideas how to fix? I'm guess in I will need to take it to bits from the bottom?
 
Annoying spring noise in the accelerator, guessing it is an easy fix. Sounds like a spring catches just as you press (about 5% down).

Any ideas how to fix? I'm guess in I will need to take it to bits from the bottom?

My brake had an annoying squeak I just took springs out spread the grease that was already on bottom around a bit more and put back together and solved for now.
 
well now.. they are finally available here in Indonesia and as expected the price is outrageous, Exchange to $425 Canadian dollars


edit: found them at another site for $1000 Cdn hahahaha
 
Last edited:
I did order it but no matter what configuration I tried with the springs, I just wasn't a fan. It drastically decreased pedal travel. I currently have the red spring on the bottom and grey spring on top with no spacers installed and I'm really happy with it.

I felt the same. I liked the feel of the Apex V2R mod but the reduction in travel was too much.

What I ended up doing, since they provided 2, was cut one in half, put it under the bottom spring, and removed silver preload spring (so the two black spacers were touching each other). This gave me the firm feel at the bottom of the pedal without reducing the travel too much.
 
well now.. they are finally available here in Indonesia and as expected the price is outrageous, Exchange to $425 Canadian dollars


edit: found them at another site for $1000 Cdn hahahaha

They are $500 in NZ ... So want some load cell pedals but just cant justify that money in this climate :(.
 
I'm curious
The TGT has a button to swap the throttle and clutch pedals so the pedals can be inverted. Wondering if anyone has tried this on the T-LCMs
Obviously you'd need to build yourself a rack for it and swap the springs
 
I'm curious
The TGT has a button to swap the throttle and clutch pedals so the pedals can be inverted. Wondering if anyone has tried this on the T-LCMs
Obviously you'd need to build yourself a rack for it and swap the springs
I asked that question in another thread because I have to drive with my left foot and apparently it does still work like that with these pedals.
 
Back