Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals
- Thread starter Pennzoil23
- 640 comments
- 258,628 views
- 1,062
- Kansas City
- 332
- Denmark
I just got mine last week, I hesitated a while, both because of limited availability here and the downgrade in materials from the all-metal T3PA Pros (which I have been using without problems for almost three years.) Sensor wise they certainly are an upgrade, not just the brake (which is much easier to modulate than the Pros with the brake mod installed,) but also the clutch and the accelerator pedal—they are more precise with a longer throw and no dead zones (unless you want there to be.) And if you play GT Sport you can—finally!—say goodbye to the constantly re-calibrating brake pedal. Regarding the springs in the clutch and accelerator (if that's what you meant), I don't think they are much firmer than the pros were.
If you are used to the Pro's brake mod, I'd recommend to install the five washers to remove the preload spring effect.
The only annoyances I can see this early are:
1) No mounting screws included (I used the two M6s and padded discs that came with the Pro.)
2) You'll need a PC to change settings and to re-calibrate if you change the brake pedal springs.
3) The base is made of plastic, and feels a little flimsy coming from the very solid, all-metal Pros.
4) The included Allen wrench is of inferior quality—I had to use the one that came with the Pros to change the foot plate on the brake pedal.
In the end, I'm happy with my purchase, even though it seems a little expensive when compared to the cheaper Pros.
The only firmware update you'll need is for your wheel—there are no FW updates for the pedals yet, AFAIK.
Edited for bad grammar.
Last edited:
- 1,711
- Chicago, USA
Did a random search this morning for these pedals in the US. Surprise to find them in stock at my local (well, 20 miles away) Micro Center! Reserved it online and just picked up tonight. Looking forward to installing them this weekend!
I think this is the month when more stock will be available.
- 1,062
- Kansas City
Thats awesome! Im sure you'll love them.
Give us a report. Are you hard mounting them?
- 1,205
- Ciamis, West Java
- nosoks
The throttle spring on my T3PA-GTs for my TGT just broke. If anyone has a spec for this I want try and source one here in Indonesia.... not confident 
My wife is looking at buying a set of these T-LCMs....... I'm half heartedly trying to talk her out of it
... $4 vs $400
My wife is looking at buying a set of these T-LCMs....... I'm half heartedly trying to talk her out of it
... $4 vs $400
- 1,062
- Kansas City
The throttle spring on my T3PA-GTs for my TGT just broke. If anyone has a spec for this I want try and source one here in Indonesia.... not confident
My wife is looking at buying a set of these T-LCMs....... I'm half heartedly trying to talk her out of it
Let her get the T-LCM. They are 100000% better
Indeed, get the T-LMC pedals instead, if it is not a money issue.The throttle spring on my T3PA-GTs for my TGT just broke. If anyone has a spec for this I want try and source one here in Indonesia.... not confident
My wife is looking at buying a set of these T-LCMs....... I'm half heartedly trying to talk her out of it
This is an upside down world. Normally it is the wife who is complaining about the husband's racing sim hobby and the money he spends on it.
- 1,711
- Chicago, USA
No hard mounting. I'm using a GT Omega wheel stand, which has a clamp to hold the pedals in place. So far so good.
I think I've got my configuration and calibration in a good place now. The springs are broken in, and game settings adjusted for Assetto Corsa and RaceRoom so far. An unexpected improvement is the gas/throttle pedal... although it's not load cell, it feels so much better than my T3PA.
- 23
- United States
Do the T-LCM pedals have the same mounting locations for the screws as the TP3A Pros do? Thinking of upgrading but I need to know if my current pedal plate will work with the LCM’s.
Also, do the different pedal springs you mentioned come with the LCM’s?
I believe 2 of the holes are in the same position, but the other 2 aren’t. TM sells an adaptor piece set for them to be able to mount them to the T3PA position
- 23
- United States
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,286
- Australia
- GT-MIC
This might be helpful for you, all the measurements are here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T_LCM/T-LCM_Pedals_Cockpit_Setup.pdfThanks for the quick reply. I have A LOT of slots on my plate so it all depends on the inches between the top and bottom. Width won’t be an issue as the slots are long. But if they sell an adapter it shouldn’t be a problem either way.
Thanks again!!
- 23
- United States
👍
- 332
- Denmark
Sadly not. There's a handy drilling template included, though. The adapter brackets are about $20, so if you've got a drill (and a wide enough rig) there are cash to be saved.
The set includes five brake pedal springs that you can mix (two springs needs to be installed.) From weakest to strongest: one white, one gray, one black and two reds. The default configuration is a black and a gray spring and full preload (which is a softer spring that moves about an inch before the other springs are engaged. I think it's meant to emulate the initial soft feeling of a road car brake pedal. This can be adjusted by installing a number of washers, which are also included.) I currently use two reds and no preload.
The clutch and accelerator springs are not adjustable.
No.
Last edited:
I'm trying to "spread the love around"; that is, buy the pedals first to use with the G29, then later, as budget allows, add the base and steering wheel.
T-LMC or ClubSport V3 pedals… same applies, I would imagine. If I'm going to upgrade peripherals to my PS4, I have to go ALL IN sounds like. I can't simply add as I go along, in order to help "ease the pain."
- 23
- United States
Thanks for the information. I’ve actually already picked up the TLCM’s and I was waiting on the T300 to ship but it was still in processing so I looked at where I bought the LCM’s, which at the time didn’t have the T300 GT in stock but now they do! So I cancelled my order from B&H and reserved the T300 GT at Microcenter, where I got the LCM’s.
But now I have a bit of a dilemma. I will probably create a new thread asking this question but I’ll ask here as well.
Thrustmaster vs Fanatec.
I got the T300 GT and TLCM with replacement plans, 2yr on the wheel (though I can change that to 3yr when I go pick it up) and a 3yr on the LCM’s (Microcenter has very good replacement/protection plans).
I can get the CSL Elite wheel and ClubSport V3 load cell pedals, with 2 day shipping for $137 more than the Thrustmaster package above (or $97 more with 3yr replacement plan on T300)
BUT, I only get a ONE yr warranty with the Fanatec package and if I do have problems with the Fanatec I’d have to ship it to them for repair or replacement and have to wait to get it back.
I’ve read that generally the Fanatec wheel and load cell pedals above are better than the Thrustmaster package above but with only a 1 year warranty compared to 3yr replacement plans and the difference between having to ship to repair Fanatec vs. getting to replace Thrustmaster here in town, I wonder if it’s worth it given the reliability issues I’ve read about Fanatec as well.
Does anyone have any opinions on this and which way you would go given the same situation?
Thank you in advance!
- 876
- Space Coast
- Chevy_Heavy
I can't speak on Thrustmaster as I've never used any of their products. When I decided to upgrade from a G29 I did a lot of research on both. I went with a Fanatec CSL Elite w/LC and couldn't be happier. I believe that Fanatec are a higher quality product and if you decide to change wheels, pedals, etc. most are all compatible with each other in their ecosystem. I also read too many negative comments about Thrustmaster. Just my 2 cents.
After driving with a T300 RS for a year, I've decided to upgrade my pedals to T-LCM in order to have better brake feel. I'm under the impression I'm always on/off with the standard pedals so I'm looking forward to more gentle braking and better feeling for trail braking.
I just did a few laps and it wasn't a success... I'm used to brake 100% and then (try to) loosen the pedal in order to trail brake. With T-LCM I need to apply much more force to get to 100%, which is nice, but when I let go of the pedal just the slightest bit, it immediately goes to about 25% (in GT Sport MFD). It's almost impossible to go to something like 75%.
So while it's now easier to modulate brake force when I start braking, it's more of an on/off experience when I reduce the braking. I'm always spinning out not because I'm braking too late but because I stop braking too soon.
At the moment I've not changed anything on the standard set-up: no calibration or changing of the default springs. Since I'm a pedal newbie: any recommendation (apart from learning to drive...) on what I could change?
I just did a few laps and it wasn't a success... I'm used to brake 100% and then (try to) loosen the pedal in order to trail brake. With T-LCM I need to apply much more force to get to 100%, which is nice, but when I let go of the pedal just the slightest bit, it immediately goes to about 25% (in GT Sport MFD). It's almost impossible to go to something like 75%.
So while it's now easier to modulate brake force when I start braking, it's more of an on/off experience when I reduce the braking. I'm always spinning out not because I'm braking too late but because I stop braking too soon.
At the moment I've not changed anything on the standard set-up: no calibration or changing of the default springs. Since I'm a pedal newbie: any recommendation (apart from learning to drive...) on what I could change?
- 332
- Denmark
@dvdj Try with the pre-load washers installed - I started with the default configuration too, but it felt too non-linear. Installing the pre-load washers helped with that (I tried three at first, but preferred it with all five to take all pre-load (the pedal travel that doesn't do much) away.) If that's still not to your liking, try with both the red springs installed. And I'd also recommend that you configure the braking force and dead zones by connecting the pedals to a PC.
Edit: It also takes a while to get used to new pedals. It took a couple of days for me to be up to speed again, and I hope I wont have to go back to the old T3PAs again.
Edit: It also takes a while to get used to new pedals. It took a couple of days for me to be up to speed again, and I hope I wont have to go back to the old T3PAs again.
Last edited:
- 1
- Canada
Does the T-LCM pedals work with a logitech g 29 base for playing on a ps4?
If no is there a way to makes them work together on a ps4?
If no is there a way to makes them work together on a ps4?
- 332
- Denmark
No, it won't work directly. But according to the Drive Hub site it should work with their converter and a T.RJ12 adapter (IDK why that adapter is required, as the LCMs can be connected by USB already), but you better ask in the Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter thread.
Last edited:
I added 4 of those pre-load washers and changed Brake Force from the default 70 to 50.
Not perfect yet, but much better already. Thanks!
Not spinning anymore. Lap times are more or less the same as with the default T300RS pedal set now, but I guess that's rather because of the feet than the pedals...
Similar threads
