Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

[PirovacBoy]

The calibration changes how hard you need to press the pedals to get full braking.
The springs change how much the pedal moves at full brakes.

So you don't *need* to recalibrate when you change springs if you're happy with the force. I think it's set about 2/3 of the highest force as standard which is pretty good for most people. And then you can just change the springs weaker if you like a lot of movement or stronger if you want the pedal really firm. You'll still have to press it the same strength tho to get the same braking

However you may need to update your wheel firmware to get it compatible with the new pedals

Thank you for the Information.
So i guess i‘m going to Order one of these and See how they perform.
By the way, have you noticed any difference in braking accuracy and especially braking consistency in GTS?
I‘m using the t3pa with the conical brake mod, and the Constant recalibration is what causes me headache. It’s not that Bad at all, But it’s definitely noticable over longer sessions and i find myself often Not getting 100% brake force anymore after a while and therefore longer stopping distance.

 

[John G]

I never had an issue with my T3PA but I slightly modded it for a better feel so for me it was pretty good already.
But the LCMs are really nice!

 

[anthonyfa18]

Hey i was thing of something and I would like to know if any one has tryed this

let say you have a T-GT and a drive hub and you hook up your t-Lcm by usb to the drive hub in the Accessory plug are u Abel to it 16bit on consols ???

will this also work with T-GT in GT mode play on GT sports??

 

[FPV MIC]

Hey i was thing of something and I would like to know if any one has tryed this

let say you have a T-GT and a drive hub and you hook up your t-Lcm by usb to the drive hub in the Accessory plug are u Abel to it 16bit on consols ???

will this also work with T-GT in GT mode play on GT sports??

There was already an update for Thrustmaster wheel bases so they now runs two separate modes for the pedals. The TLCM's run at a higher resolution than the potentiometer based pedal sets when plugged directly into the base already.

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download...T_LCM/T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf

 

[Polymer]

The TGT has a button to swap the throttle and clutch pedals so the pedals can be inverted. Wondering if anyone has tried this on the T-LCMs
Obviously you'd need to build yourself a rack for it and swap the springs

I just inverted the T-LCM pedals, and don't have a Thrustmaster wheel. It involves opening up the rear panel and doing some mods that includes lengthening a cable.

 

[Polymer]

I ordered some elastomer tubes (similar to the fanatec v3 pbk)

Ordered them from mcmaster-carr link below.

I got the 80A durometer ones. If they work ok without breaking anything and if the feel is good then i might buy more in the same durometer or in the hardest.

The video is very interesting. Only the 80A seems to be the issue.
Which size did you get? 1" long, 1" OD, and 3/8" ID?

I see they have 1" OD and 3/8" ID in 40A and 60A, but sadly only in 36" lengths, and for ~$75!
Would be a cheap solution if it could be cut down to size, as many could be made from that 36" length.

 

[John G]

Anyone else get quite a creaky brake pedal on their LCM?
I don't even run it that stiff, one red one black spring.
I think I'll have to open it up and see what I can do. Will try to stiffen up the light throttle pedal at the same time

Edit :
OK so did a few mods.
Changed clutch spring to throttle and found a different stiffer spring for the clutch. It's fairly stiff for a throttle especially at full travel but I'm sure I'll get used to it and much easier to modulate now.

Greased the pivot point of the brake but turns out it wasn't that making the noise. It's coming where the rod going through the load cell attaches to the base underneath. There is a thick washer under the load cell so I just put a little grease under the washer and that's sorted the noise.

Then cut up a little fabric and placed over the pedals to stop dust dropping through the holes as a little had started to accumulate around the throttle.

 

[Polymer]

Anyone else get quite a creaky brake pedal on their LCM?
Greased the pivot point of the brake but turns out it wasn't that making the noise. It's coming where the rod going through the load cell attaches to the base underneath. There is a thick washer under the load cell so I just put a little grease under the washer and that's sorted the noise.

Thanks for posting; I'll keep an eye/ear out for any developing creaky noises.
Incidentally, I also replaced the gas & clutch pedal springs; the gas pedal now has a spring that is pretty close to what the clutch pedal was, and the clutch got a heavier spring. Seems much better; just hope the plastic hinge piece of the clutch pedal can withstand the heavier spring!!!

 

[John G]

Thanks for posting; I'll keep an eye/ear out for any developing creaky noises.
Incidentally, I also replaced the gas & clutch pedal springs; the gas pedal now has a spring that is pretty close to what the clutch pedal was, and the clutch got a heavier spring. Seems much better; just hope the plastic hinge piece of the clutch pedal can withstand the heavier spring!!!

Did you just spec your own or is there somewhere doing spring mods for the LCM?
I think using the clutch spring on the throttle is just a touch too stiff, without shoes on anyway

 

[Polymer]

Did you just spec your own or is there somewhere doing spring mods for the LCM?
I think using the clutch spring on the throttle is just a touch too stiff, without shoes on anyway

No other reference sites that I could find, no. I just measured the diameter of the original spring and bought 3.5" long ones from McMaster, then cut one end off. The new springs came as both ends closed; the T-LCM springs for the clutch and gas are both ends open, for some reason??? And I tried that, but didn't like how the springs traveled/compressed. So I ended up making a slightly shorter-than-original spring with one end open and the other end closed (closed end rests on pedal, open end rests on base).

Springs I bought (came in a pack of six) were:

Clutch:
OD=0.72"
ID=0.55"
WIRE DIA=0.085"
LOAD LBS/INCH=24.2

Did the exact same for the gas pedal (which is close to the original clutch pedal spring):
OD=0.72"
ID=0.576"
WIRE DIA=0.072"
LOAD LBS/INCH=10.5

 

[John G]

I think they went open ended on the springs as the lever arm is quite short so there's quite a large angle in the spring at its full extension position. Having open ends rather than flat allows you to take up some of that angle to reduce the bend through the actual spring.
They are a funny shape with the flared ends so I don't think it was a cost decision to not get closed ends

 

[NosOsH]

Has anyone seen or tried out the new pre-load delete mod piece from apexv2r?

Ive been itching to try out a spring and polymer combo, as i i dont want to lose the travel aspect but gain a more realistic/progressive feel. Havent pulled the trigger on the 60$ kit tho as that is a fair amount of moolah and i told myself i would at least get used to the springs first.

 

[VanEmotional]

So here is a weird one, I went to a friend's house to try his T-LCM pedals, about an hour in my foot slipped off the brake. Thought nothing of it, its happened before. However, when I went to brake for the next corner, the entire pedal locked up. So we paused the game and took a look.



The brake was no longer resting in the correct position. Look at the springs, washers, rod, load cell. Nothing missing. Something happened underneath. Being that this thing was 4 days old, I took it back to the shop (on my friend's behalf because I felt so bad for doing this) and did the exchange for free.

Has anyone come across this with the T-LCM, I went on reddit, here, google search, not a single person has had this problem. I am just wondering in case it happens again in the future what could be done?

 

[FPV MIC]

So here is a weird one, I went to a friend's house to try his T-LCM pedals, about an hour in my foot slipped off the brake. Thought nothing of it, its happened before. However, when I went to brake for the next corner, the entire pedal locked up. So we paused the game and took a look.

View attachment 1001527

The brake was no longer resting in the correct position. Look at the springs, washers, rod, load cell. Nothing missing. Something happened underneath. Being that this thing was 4 days old, I took it back to the shop (on my friend's behalf because I felt so bad for doing this) and did the exchange for free.

Has anyone come across this with the T-LCM, I went on reddit, here, google search, not a single person has had this problem. I am just wondering in case it happens again in the future what could be done?

Your picture doesn't really show anything useful as all the parts you've asked us to look at aren't there. Is the broken image a better shot?

 

[John G]

Hmm my throttle has gone. Just stopped working altogether, zero input.
And on the T-LCM calibration it doesn't see any of the pedals.

What's the betting that thrustmaster can't just send out a spare throttle circuit board.

 

[WildRun]

So here is a weird one, I went to a friend's house to try his T-LCM pedals, about an hour in my foot slipped off the brake. Thought nothing of it, its happened before. However, when I went to brake for the next corner, the entire pedal locked up. So we paused the game and took a look.

View attachment 1001527

The brake was no longer resting in the correct position. Look at the springs, washers, rod, load cell. Nothing missing. Something happened underneath. Being that this thing was 4 days old, I took it back to the shop (on my friend's behalf because I felt so bad for doing this) and did the exchange for free.

Has anyone come across this with the T-LCM, I went on reddit, here, google search, not a single person has had this problem. I am just wondering in case it happens again in the future what could be done?

It's easy to solve, you just need to turn & tight this nut (it will align the brake pedal with the 2 others):

 

[SRT DK Racing]

Hmm my throttle has gone. Just stopped working altogether, zero input.
And on the T-LCM calibration it doesn't see any of the pedals.

What's the betting that thrustmaster can't just send out a spare throttle circuit board.[/Q ouUOTE]

Got a question to you , how old are your pedal set ? Asking because I have issues with the throttle getting stock suddenly and I have to unplug the RJ12 cable and it works again for a little while before it gets stock again , and mine is 16 days old only , so your issue makes me think that I bought something I shouldnt have bought

 

[John G]

I bought mine in December.
They worked perfectly right up until now

 

[graveltrap]

I have been looking at these for a while, and finally bit the bullet and ordered a set as they were back in stock.

My pedal set arrived today, after some faffing about getting them installed on the wheel stand, I was pretty excited to give them ago!

This is my first experience with a load cell pedals and it was somewhat disappointing, but this is a me issue I think, muscle memory of many many years using T3PA pedals caused more issues than expected. I simply wasn’t applying enough pressure to stop the car!

Activating the pedals app in Assetto Corsa, showed that when I thought I was applying some braking force there was none! Max pressure was not an issue, but trail braking and applying smaller inputs was problematic.

Heel toe made the problem worse, maintaining the correct pressure and blipping the throttle, saw brake forces all over the place!

Recalibration of my legs is going to take a bit of time I think but I am looking forward to the challenge

 

[Torqueflight]

I have been looking at these for a while, and finally bit the bullet and ordered a set as they were back in stock.

My pedal set arrived today, after some faffing about getting them installed on the wheel stand, I was pretty excited to give them ago!

This is my first experience with a load cell pedals and it was somewhat disappointing, but this is a me issue I think, muscle memory of many many years using T3PA pedals caused more issues than expected. I simply wasn’t applying enough pressure to stop the car!

Activating the pedals app in Assetto Corsa, showed that when I thought I was applying some braking force there was none! Max pressure was not an issue, but trail braking and applying smaller inputs was problematic.

Heel toe made the problem worse, maintaining the correct pressure and blipping the throttle, saw brake forces all over the place!

Recalibration of my legs is going to take a bit of time I think but I am looking forward to the challenge

I maybe in the same boat gravel. My set should be here Monday.

 

[graveltrap]

I think I found the reason for my initial disappointment, brake gamma! In AC I had it set to 2.4 for the T3PA, I have now set it to 1 and the feel in game is good! Everything makes much more sense to the ole brain now anyway...

 

[Torqueflight]

@graveltrap what is your brake spring set up outta curiosity

 

[graveltrap]

@Torqueflight Right now I am back to black and grey, with 3 shims in the preload spring, I have increased the brake pressure in the calibration tool to 78, I did try red and black, but it was a little too much for the wheel stand.

 

[RafalDybek]

I warmly welcome.
I want to buy a T-LCM pedals kit. There is a notice in the pedal manual - Please note: In this configuration, an official Thrustmaster wheel rim must be installed on the base of your racing wheel. Failure to do so will result in the pedal set not being recognized as a high-precision T-LCM Pedals pedal set. I have additional steering wheels TM COMPETITION WHEEL Add-On Sparco P310 Mod and TM Open Wheel Add-on. Are these official THRUSTMASTER rims and will they work well?

 

[Torqueflight]

I warmly welcome.
I want to buy a T-LCM pedals kit. There is a notice in the pedal manual - Please note: In this configuration, an official Thrustmaster wheel rim must be installed on the base of your racing wheel. Failure to do so will result in the pedal set not being recognized as a high-precision T-LCM Pedals pedal set. I have additional steering wheels TM COMPETITION WHEEL Add-On Sparco P310 Mod and TM Open Wheel Add-on. Are these official THRUSTMASTER rims and will they work well?

Yes those are official TM rims and should work fine. You may need to update firmware on your base first.

 

[Torqueflight]

@Torqueflight Right now I am back to black and grey, with 3 shims in the preload spring, I have increased the brake pressure in the calibration tool to 78, I did try red and black, but it was a little too much for the wheel stand.

What wheel stand you using. I’m worried about my pedal plate.

 

[graveltrap]

What wheel stand you using. I’m worried about my pedal plate.

Its an old GT Omega, the holes for pedals didn't line up with any of the pre drilled stuff, they were half a hole out on a slot, so not possible to drill, had to use a Dremel to open up enough to fit the screw in...

The stand likes to move away from me at times, this is why I went back a step on stiffness, I don't like hanging onto the wheel to stop the base moving!

 

[Torqueflight]

Its an old GT Omega, the holes for pedals didn't line up with any of the pre drilled stuff, they were half a hole out on a slot, so not possible to drill, had to use a Dremel to open up enough to fit the screw in...

The stand likes to move away from me at times, this is why I went back a step on stiffness, I don't like hanging onto the wheel to stop the base moving!

I have an GT Omega ART cockpit so hopefully be ok.

 

[RafalDybek]

Yes those are official TM rims and should work fine. You may need to update firmware on your base first.

Thank you for your answer for help.

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

The video is very interesting. Only the 80A seems to be the issue.
Which size did you get? 1" long, 1" OD, and 3/8" ID?

I see they have 1" OD and 3/8" ID in 40A and 60A, but sadly only in 36" lengths, and for ~$75!
Would be a cheap solution if it could be cut down to size, as many could be made from that 36" length.

Ill have to go and measure. I ended up using stiffer springs i found on ebay.

A 32kg and a 35kg combined