Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

  • Thread starter Pennzoil23
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I'm getting these pedals.
Planning to play with socks mostly, so should I get the rubber grips too?
I agree with @NosOsH that they're not really necessary. I will admit to buying them though as I too race with bare feet or socks and my foot was getting too cold from the accelerator pedal plate in winter.

They also have disadvantages. The added grip makes it a tad harder to slide your foot from one pedal to the other quickly if you only use one foot like me. It's a non-issue if you only use your left foot to brake and right foot to accelerate but I can imagine it might be an issue for clutch users as well.
 
Finally ordered these pedals and have a question: When I calibrate the pedals on the pc, do I need to update the wheel base firmware as well? T300 BTW.
 
Finally ordered these pedals and have a question: When I calibrate the pedals on the pc, do I need to update the wheel base firmware as well? T300 BTW.
I'm pretty sure there was an update for all of the TM bases when the T'LCM's first came out so to be on the safe side I'd make sure I was on the newest update if I were you.

It'll be a whole new world for you mate and it took me a bit of getting used to trying to break the old potentiometer bad habits but I'm sure you'll grab by the you know what's. Enjoy! :)
 
I'm pretty sure there was an update for all of the TM bases when the T'LCM's first came out so to be on the safe side I'd make sure I was on the newest update if I were you.
OK. I'll do that. Cheers mate.:cheers:

It'll be a whole new world for you mate and it took me a bit of getting used to trying to break the old potentiometer bad habits but I'm sure you'll grab by the you know what's. Enjoy! :)
After taking most of the summer off from driving, I'm more than ready to chuck some laps in again.:)
 
OK. I'll do that. Cheers mate.:cheers:


After taking most of the summer off from driving, I'm more than ready to chuck some laps in again.:)
I've had a bit of time off myself albeit forced but I'm looking forward to easing myself into a few laps in readiness for GT 7.

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Nice set up you've got there. Even a Ps5! I've been trying to grab one over the last couple of months but I'm just not quick enough in the grab. Ah well. I'll get one eventually.

Enjoy your comeback too, mate. Go easy on the lap times though, eh? Don't demoralise me too quickly:P
 
Nice set up you've got there. Even a Ps5! I've been trying to grab one over the last couple of months but I'm just not quick enough in the grab. Ah well. I'll get one eventually.

Enjoy your comeback too, mate. Go easy on the lap times though, eh? Don't demoralise me too quickly:P
I have to have nice things to distract me from the god awful etched roller paint on the walls 🤢. PSVR 2 can't come soon enough!


... Or I could just get the house painted, but PSVR 2 will be cheaper and the money saved will be better spent on upgrades to the garage/man cave/shiela shack :dopey:


Best of luck with finding a PS 5, I pre-ordered right from the get go as my old day 1 edition PS 4 was starting to get really noisy... and I don't think I'll be setting much of a target for you. More than likely I'll be chasing you! :)
 
Try blinkers till you get the VR.:D

I had the disk version sat in a basket as soon as they went live and all my details were in but then I second guessed myself and emptied the basket to get the digital version instead. Not my best decision...:mad:

The pedals get here Thursday and I've got some offcuts of wood ready to reduce the ridiculous amount of flex in my rig's pedal plate. I'm all set.

(Sorry for the slow reply, mate.)
 
They came a day early! Had no luck finding holes to mount with and I've zero chance of offsetting them (center post to deal with) but I can always move the post back a bit. I guess they're not too Playseat Evo friendly.

Drilled 2.5 holes (drill bit snapped) so I'll have to finish it tomorrow when I fetch more. So near yet so far.:irked:

I was a bit shocked pushing the default springs by hand (I was expecting more resistance) so it looks like I'll have to start with the reds and go down from there.
 
They came a day early! Had no luck finding holes to mount with and I've zero chance of offsetting them (center post to deal with) but I can always move the post back a bit. I guess they're not too Playseat Evo friendly.

Drilled 2.5 holes (drill bit snapped) so I'll have to finish it tomorrow when I fetch more. So near yet so far.:irked:

I was a bit shocked pushing the default springs by hand (I was expecting more resistance) so it looks like I'll have to start with the reds and go down from there.
Bad luck about the drill bit snapping mate.

I run both reds and all five washers on 80-90% (mood dependant) in mine. I slowly eased into it but really I should have gone straight to the full works as I was already running a fairly hefty loadcell beforehand. The biggest improvement for me was taking out the slop at the start of the pedal travel with the washers. I'm used to performance brakes and that's how they are, hard right from the get go. It felt more like I was driving with half worn drum brakes before that :P.

Don't forget to download the software calibration tool https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/ There's quite a bit you can do with it.
 
I run both reds and all five washers on 80-90% (mood dependant) in mine. I slowly eased into it but really I should have gone straight to the full works as I was already running a fairly hefty loadcell beforehand. The biggest improvement for me was taking out the slop at the start of the pedal travel with the washers. I'm used to performance brakes and that's how they are, hard right from the get go. It felt more like I was driving with half worn drum brakes before that :P.
I'm hoping to find a happy middle ground between race and road cars. With me spending more time in road cars, I'm looking for a bit more play in the travel for brush braking.

I did a quick test with two reds after I wrote that reply and it felt too strong (by hand) so I put the black (3rd strongest I think) on top instead, which gave me a bit more easy travel. Once it's my leg doing the pushing, it will probably all change depending on flex... Maybe I should anger the missus and ask if I can upgrade to an LC friendly cockpit as well?:lol:
 
I'm hoping to find a happy middle ground between race and road cars. With me spending more time in road cars, I'm looking for a bit more play in the travel for brush braking.

I did a quick test with two reds after I wrote that reply and it felt too strong (by hand) so I put the black (3rd strongest I think) on top instead, which gave me a bit more easy travel. Once it's my leg doing the pushing, it will probably all change depending on flex... Maybe I should anger the missus and ask if I can upgrade to an LC friendly cockpit as well?:lol:
Well mine does :P

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I know what you mean, I just really hated the pre-load spring (the chrome one) and you can still get a brush the brake pedal feel with the springs to the max just by tuning with the software (lowering the %) eg. 50% brake force with both red springs is only 50kgs or there about, you just have less travel. It might take a bit to get everything where you like it. I spent a few days with my laptop sitting on the side of my rig unplugging the pedals from the base and PS, into the laptop and back again, over and over :crazy:.

Just don't anger the missus toooo much :lol:
 
My son is coming to help tomorrow and I fully intend running him ragged with springs, cables and with rig reinforcing to finish. I'd help but someone has to sit in the rig barking orders...:sly:
 
My son is coming to help tomorrow and I fully intend running him ragged with springs, cables and with rig reinforcing to finish. I'd help but someone has to sit in the rig barking orders...:sly:
:lol: That's the spirit 👍

Just remember, the springs are only for how stiff the pedal is, the software is for how hard you actually have to press and you'll be fine :)
 
Managed to get an hour's driving after getting everything set up (son didn't turn up so it half killed me :grumpy:) but my rig and pedals need more fettling for comfort. Barely any flex (1/2") after I laid the pedals down but that puts the brake directly behind the center post so one sore ankle and knee later, I'll see if I can raise the pedals back up tomorrow. Fixing flex is way better than this seating position.:yuck:

So far, I'm kicking myself for not buying these earlier. Trail braking feels really natural and I was shaving my old T3PA braking distances in no time at all. I know I was slow on and off those pot brakes but till I tried these, I didn't realise I was that slow. Bloody exhausting though.:lol:
 
Hello all. I've mounted these pedals on a Rseat RS1. I haven't upgraded the pedal mount so there's quite a bit of flex in the pedal part of the seat with the T-LCM mounted. But, I found that with the default settings and only exchange the brown spring for a red one (red under, black on top and no washers) that I can modulate the braking to my liking without overflexing. Just wanted to share my experience with you guys. Happy racing!
 
My 5 cents here, I have the pedals mounted on GT Omega Apex rig, have 0 flex. Have tried all spring combinations, with and without washers, and the best combination for me is black spring for the upper one and red for the lower one, without any washers. Somehow this gives me the most authentic brake pedal feeling, close to the ford focus diesel I drive every day :D. The push is very progressive devided into three phases pre-load, easy push, and hard one which is very easy to feel the resistance and modulate for me.
 
mine arrived yesterday, within 24 hours of ordering... cool.
Initial impression is good but will take some getting used to. The pedal positioning is a bit different to my T3PA GTs but I'll mess with the pads.
One question, I've read about a calibration tool. Is this different from whats in the TM control panel? and if so can someone please post a link I can't seem to find anything TIA
 
mine arrived yesterday, within 24 hours of ordering... cool.
Initial impression is good but will take some getting used to. The pedal positioning is a bit different to my T3PA GTs but I'll mess with the pads.
One question, I've read about a calibration tool. Is this different from whats in the TM control panel? and if so can someone please post a link I can't seem to find anything TIA
The pedals have their own software separate from the control panel. It's hidden in the drop down in Technical Support under Software.


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Once you've opened it you'll see it :)
 
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I had the same issue by the way, where the accelarator will randomly drop to like 20% to 40% while fully pressed. Was contacting TM and sending them videos, they told me that it was an anomaly in the pedal behaviour and I have to make more videoes and probably send pedals to them to the Netherlands service centre. Nevertheless pedals were brand new I was trying to figure out by myself what could cause this, and you will not believe it I have solved the issue by replacing the bolt under accelerator pedal that held the pedals screwed to my GT Omega Apex cockpit same as yours with a rear seat frame and etc.. The reason apparently was when the pedal was fully engaged it was touching the bolt cause it was like 16mm long, and thus it could have sent some confusing signals towards the PCB, so once I changed it to 10 mm bolt the issue was gone for good and has never appeared since.
Do the pedals come with the bolts? Or you have to buy them separately? I will have a GT Omega Stand Pro. Or do they come with the stand?

If not what kind of bolt or screw will I need? I’m planning to buy a T300RS and this pedals and that stand.

Thanks!
 
Do the pedals come with the bolts? Or you have to buy them separately? I will have a GT Omega Stand Pro. Or do they come with the stand?

If not what kind of bolt or screw will I need? I’m planning to buy a T300RS and this pedals and that stand.

Thanks!
GT Omega Apex came with plenty of spare bolts, so I guess yours will come too. As for the pedals you need 5 x M6s no longer than 15mm bolts (were not included with my pedals). However I bolted pedals only on three bolts, leaving the middle one and the one under accelerator out, because it was giving me some weird accelerator behaviour (it was suddenly dropping to 20%, while fully pressed), so by removing the bolt under accelerator solved the problem for me. As for the middle one GT Omega doesn’t have it pre drilled. Neverheless 3 bolts do the job well, no flex, no movement.
 
GT Omega Apex came with plenty of spare bolts, so I guess yours will come too. As for the pedals you need 5 x M6s no longer than 15mm bolts (were not included with my pedals). However I bolted pedals only on three bolts, leaving the middle one and the one under accelerator out, because it was giving me some weird accelerator behaviour (it was suddenly dropping to 20%, while fully pressed), so by removing the bolt under accelerator solved the problem for me. As for the middle one GT Omega doesn’t have it pre drilled. Neverheless 3 bolts do the job well, no flex, no movement.
Thanks!
 
In every review I've seen on these pedals, the brake's spring stack is pushing against the pedal but on mine, it's loose with about 5mm of unregistered play.

Can someone with these pedals measure their spring stack for me, please? Measuring from the top of the load cell to the top of the washer below the cam, I've got 75mm.

It doesn't affect the brake's performance but with my pedals kicked forward 10 degrees, the weight of the pedal opens up the slack, causing a bit of rattle.
 
In every review I've seen on these pedals, the brake's spring stack is pushing against the pedal but on mine, it's loose with about 5mm of unregistered play.

Can someone with these pedals measure their spring stack for me, please? Measuring from the top of the load cell to the top of the washer below the cam, I've got 75mm.

It doesn't affect the brake's performance but with my pedals kicked forward 10 degrees, the weight of the pedal opens up the slack, causing a bit of rattle.
Did you try to titghten the bolt underneath the pedals? Theres one in the middle that helps adjusting the brake pedal.
 
To fit them, I did the 4 corners (had to drill 2) but not the middle one.

There's about an inch of flex in my rig but the pedal base is firmly attached with zero flex in it so it must be with the pedal itself. I could take the slack out with a couple of nylon washers so it's no big deal but I was wondering why it was different on mine.

Thanks for answering BTW.
 
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To fit them, I did the 4 corners (had to drill 2) but not the middle one.

There's about an inch of flex in my rig but the pedal base is firmly attached with zero flex in it so it must be with the pedal itself. I could take the slack out with a couple of nylon washers so it's no big deal but I was wondering why it was different on mine.

Thanks for answering BTW.
Its not to fit the pedals, if you will look under the pedals when unfitted, right at the same place where there is a middle bolt hole, you will see another bolt/nut thats already in there, you can tighten it to adjust the brake pedal.
 
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To fit them, I did the 4 corners (had to drill 2) but not the middle one.

There's about an inch of flex in my rig but the pedal base is firmly attached with zero flex in it so it must be with the pedal itself. I could take the slack out with a couple of nylon washers so it's no big deal but I was wondering why it was different on mine.

Thanks for answering BTW.
This is the bolt @Pepeyoshi is talking about :).

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I don't know how you fellas can run so much pressure.... I'm on the softest springs and had to turn the pressure down in the software. Maybe just old and weak hahahaha
I expect this will change in time
 
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