Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

  • Thread starter Pennzoil23
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Yes those are official TM rims and should work fine. You may need to update firmware on your base first.
I got official information from Thrustmaster support.
"Thank you Rafal for your enquiry and for contacting our Thrustmaster technical support.

The TM COMPETITION WHEEL Add-On Sparco P310 Mod and TM Open Wheel Add-on are official Thrustmaster rims and as such they will work with the T-LCM.

We wish you a pleasant day and remain at your disposal for any further information.

Kind regards,
Your Thrustmaster Customer Support Agent, Jessica"
 
Yo,

I got my T-LCMs in autumn 2020 and at first I was super happy with them. Great value for money and they worked flawlessly. But recently the throttle started acting up and gets stuck at random values or doesnt register the inputs for very short amount of time. Its very hard to recreate the issue as it seems to happen at random times and only for 1-2 seconds and then its back to normal. Happens in multiple games and sometimes you can spot it even in the Thrustmaster control panel so most likely a hardware issue. Probably a faulty sensor and I will have to sent them in which is annoying because its going to take weeks until this is gonna be sorted.

Anyone else had a similar experience and even found a solution to this?
I was considering fixing it myself by switching the electronics of the clutch and throttle (should be same logic) but thats more like a last resort thing and I dont wanna risk my warranty claims to early.
 
It's easy to solve, you just need to turn & tight this nut (it will align the brake pedal with the 2 others):
6jq3.png

Much appreciated for the response. We had returned the pedal anyways but now if it happens again we can fix it on the spot.
 
Hey Men, i recently got my set of tlcm and would like to know if I have to recalibrate the pedals if I change the springs.
I only play on Ps5 and only GTS.
I already changed the springs to my likings ( red bottom/4Washers/Black upper side) and would probably swap the black with the 2nd red one.
So, will I have to recalibrate them after changing them or is it only necessary when playing on pc?!
Thing is I don’t own a PC and would have to borrow one.
I already did it a few days ago and changed a few things with the calibration Tool.
I decreased the Brake Force to 55 and dialed in the dead zones on the throttle and brake.
Everything feels fine now, except the travel on the brake is a bit too long.
That’s why I want to change the spring.
Any tips would be much appreciated.
 
So, will I have to recalibrate them after changing them or is it only necessary when playing on pc?!

Not necessary :) The max brake force will still be 55 whatever you do to the springs, so should feel similar in that sense. But it depends on your personal preference - you might end up deciding that a higher or lower force feels more 'right' with different springs - and I can't predict that :D
 
Depends. Check you're happy with the force you need to get full brakes. If so then you don't need to touch calibration. The springs just change how travel you get for the force applied
 
you might end up deciding that a higher or lower force feels more 'right' with different springs
I get what you say, so it might be that if I change to both red, the 55brake force probably won’t feel right and I might have to change it to my likings.:cheers:
The springs just change how travel you get for the force applied
That’s what I thought too, so the travel will be reduced, though the pressure required to get full braking will stay the same.:cheers:
I‘ll try it out tomorrow when I get home from work.
So far I really like the pedals. I come from the t3pa with the conical brake mod, which in my opinion felt like a pseudo load cell.
What I liked more on the t3pa was that I never overbraked the Car, because of the hard stop.
With the tlcm I quite often overbrake the Car because I am already getting full brake force but there is still a lot of travel in the pedal after that point. That’s why I want to change the spring.
Edit: I almost forgot to thank you Men for your quick answers :gtpflag:
 
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What I liked more on the t3pa was that I never overbraked the Car, because of the hard stop.
With the tlcm I quite often overbrake the Car because I am already getting full brake force but there is still a lot of travel in the pedal after that point. That’s why I want to change the spring.

Well, that hard stop was kinda cheating... and probably overbraking as well!

One could cheat with the LCM (I wouldn't recommend it, of course) by setting it up the softest and the hardest springs, then tuning the brake force so the noticable transition between the two springs is, say, 80% - whatever is a useful amount for general braking. Need more, press a bit harder.

I think it feels better without any noticable transition between springs though, so that means using ones that are the same or one grade apart. Shame they don't supply two of each! In the end I made a custom setup using a progressive logitech brake spring and soft rubber which feels quite like my road car.

Anyway, not having an end stop is just something to get used to with any load cell brake, whether it has much travel or not! :)
 
I get what you say, so it might be that if I change to both red, the 55brake force probably won’t feel right and I might have to change it to my likings.:cheers:

That’s what I thought too, so the travel will be reduced, though the pressure required to get full braking will stay the same.:cheers:
I‘ll try it out tomorrow when I get home from work.
Yeah exactly, 2 red springs with 55 brake force means that you'll reach full braking somewhere in the middle of your brake travel, and also that travel will be quite short, so it will be difficult to modulate, and also to achieve reliable / repeatable braking
 
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So, I tested it out today and it feels good.
2 red springs 3washers in the Middle brake force 55.
I think from now on I’ll leave it like that.
I like to modulate brake force by power more than travel so I think just have adapt to that setting.
Thanks for all your answers, you really helped me :cheers:
Edit: you were right, I changed the brake force to 62% and it’s easier to modulate trail braking.
Think I‘ll keep it :D
 
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hi guys..I'm having this issue right now...what should I do???
Default settings - nothing to help.
in the calibration program - you see an error
no serial number
brake forces are 255 - when the default setting is max 100.

my wheel:t-gt
pedals: TLCM
 

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Freezing throttle ,my solution;
Hello fellow racers, I have been having the throttle pedal freezing at max or 40% randomly for a while. Today I took my pedals apart ( kudos to Barry's review video) and the two shield prongs that rest against the pedal were barely if not touching it at all. I slide the pin out and lifted pedal out then VERY CAREFULLY bent them so they make good contact with the pedal( I referenced the clutch ) it's tricky to put the pedal back in place without attacking the prongs. Also looking at the clutch, the prongs both must touch the pedal( not crossed over each other).
This with over 24 hours of testing hopefully has fixed the random freezing.
Please be aware you may void your warranty taking the pedals apart.
I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.:gtpflag:
Acc Xbox;)
 
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Ordered a set on amazon so I should be receiving it at some point this week. Can anyone attest to rigidity concerns with the pedals mounted on a GT Omega ART cockpit?

One of the content creators over on you tube had the CSL Elites mounted to his so I'm *assuming* these T-LCM pedals will be an OK fit.
 
Ordered a set on amazon so I should be receiving it at some point this week. Can anyone attest to rigidity concerns with the pedals mounted on a GT Omega ART cockpit?

One of the content creators over on you tube had the CSL Elites mounted to his so I'm *assuming* these T-LCM pedals will be an OK fit.
The ART has a flat plate as a pedal base so will support the T-LCM pedals just fine I would say. There were some signs of flex in the pedal base on one or two YouTube reviews when the base was released but it was caused by pedal bases that only offered support down each side and not across the whole base.
 
The ART has a flat plate as a pedal base so will support the T-LCM pedals just fine I would say. There were some signs of flex in the pedal base on one or two YouTube reviews when the base was released but it was caused by pedal bases that only offered support down each side and not across the whole base.

I was thinking along the same lines with the support across attached to the main frame. I'll be sure to mention if there is any flex after some use of the set over the next week. Looks like it's being delivered today!
 
I just got my t-lcm pedals few days ago to complement my t-gt. First few hours with GT Sport are mixed bag - Braking and especially recovering from lock-ups is more intuitive when ABS is turned off. ABS turner on on the other hand feels like ABS is messing up the feel for the brakes. Like ABS is lowering the braking force I input on all levels - not just before wheels lock.

Timewice i think i need a longer period to adapt - im still aprox. 1sec of my usual pace compared to my usual t-gt pedals with "stress ball brake" mod. The olympic event is a good benchmark, and i feel the t-lcm makes me struggle more with these understeering cars.
 
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Just tried my set out for the first time this evening. I was instantly more consistent in Dirt Rally 2.0. I think I'll be keeping the base setup for the pedals - don't feel the need for spacers to take off preload & no desire for the harder springs. Happy with the purchase so far.
 
I have recently moved from a wheel stand to a full rig, as this has eliminated any movement from the stand and I no longer have to hold on for dear life when braking :crazy:

I have now gone to 2x red springs with 5 spacers, I have also set force to 90 percent in the calibration software, as this feels like the pressure/force needed to fully compress the springs which feels natural to me.

I have to adjust a little to the linear nature of the pedal feel now, but I think the 90 percent force gives some extra fidelity when driving :)
 
Anyone in Australia after a set of these pedals, now is a good time to take the plunge. Pagnian has them on sale for $299AUD with free delivery. This is by far the cheapest I've seen them Down Under.... finally at the price we should've been paying all along (with no BS Covid tax).

 
Freezing throttle ,my solution;
Hello fellow racers, I have been having the throttle pedal freezing at max or 40% randomly for a while. Today I took my pedals apart ( kudos to Barry's review video) and the two shield prongs that rest against the pedal were barely if not touching it at all. I slide the pin out and lifted pedal out then VERY CAREFULLY bent them so they make good contact with the pedal( I referenced the clutch ) it's tricky to put the pedal back in place without attacking the prongs. Also looking at the clutch, the prongs both must touch the pedal( not crossed over each other).
This with over 24 hours of testing hopefully has fixed the random freezing.
Please be aware you may void your warranty taking the pedals apart.
I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.:gtpflag:
Acc Xbox;)
Been having a very similar issue and already checked the prongs which are fine, mine will randomly drop to about 25% throttle when I'm still on full gas, a lift will clear it. It can go a week without doing it and another time it can happen 3 times in a race, very frustrating. Pedals have been back to Thrustmaster who said there's nothing wrong with them and sent them back. The only thing I haven't tried is some kind of grounding, I have them mounted on a GT-Omega Apex Pro with the rear seat fram and mounted on casters.
 
Hi, my throttle spring just broke yesterday, anyone already tried to replace them, with original spec or slightly harder? I'm pretty sure I can find it on a specialized retailer for few $ max but Im a bit lost with all kind of spring! If anyone already mess up with that I would gladly take advices ;)
 
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Hi, my throttle spring just broke yesterday, anyone already tried to replace them, with original spec or slightly harder? I'm pretty sure I can find it on a specialized retailer for few $ max but Im a bit lost with all kind of spring! If anyone already mess up with that I would gladly take advices ;)
Are the pedals not still under warranty?
 
Depends what you're trying to achieve. Calibration sets the max force you want to put in.
Springs sets how far you want the pedal to move.

If you're happy how hard you need to push the pedal for full braking but just want a stiffer pedal then you don't need to recalibrate if putting stiffer springs in. For example
 
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Definately recalibrate. So that you set the force required for max braking.
I personally set it just before the pedal maxes out throw wise, just so that i know what 100% is.
 
Been having a very similar issue and already checked the prongs which are fine, mine will randomly drop to about 25% throttle when I'm still on full gas, a lift will clear it. It can go a week without doing it and another time it can happen 3 times in a race, very frustrating. Pedals have been back to Thrustmaster who said there's nothing wrong with them and sent them back. The only thing I haven't tried is some kind of grounding, I have them mounted on a GT-Omega Apex Pro with the rear seat fram and mounted on casters.
I had the same issue by the way, where the accelarator will randomly drop to like 20% to 40% while fully pressed. Was contacting TM and sending them videos, they told me that it was an anomaly in the pedal behaviour and I have to make more videoes and probably send pedals to them to the Netherlands service centre. Nevertheless pedals were brand new I was trying to figure out by myself what could cause this, and you will not believe it I have solved the issue by replacing the bolt under accelerator pedal that held the pedals screwed to my GT Omega Apex cockpit same as yours with a rear seat frame and etc.. The reason apparently was when the pedal was fully engaged it was touching the bolt cause it was like 16mm long, and thus it could have sent some confusing signals towards the PCB, so once I changed it to 10 mm bolt the issue was gone for good and has never appeared since.
 
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