Thrustmaster T150/TMX Force Feedback Racing Wheels

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Actually these notches are coming from the belt drive mechanism(there is a huge friction in this mechanism,especially with very tight belt) not from the gears.The gears are very well made much better than Logitech DFGT.

I think there is a balance with these belt drives that most wont feel comfortable with adjusting. You want it neither too tight or a little loose. Too tight makes the steering feel very hard and puts strain on the belt. Too loose and the belt teeth can slip on the cog and feel a lump.
 
I've had my T150 since blackfriday, last year, its been very good.

Last night when I was going to use it, started collaborating, then when I went press a button it wouldn't work.

I've just set it up again, on PS3, PS4 same thing none of the buttons work.

Anyone know what this could be?
 
I've had my T150 since blackfriday, last year, its been very good.

Last night when I was going to use it, started collaborating, then when I went press a button it wouldn't work.

I've just set it up again, on PS3, PS4 same thing none of the buttons work.

Anyone know what this could be?
Sorry to hear about your problem.
I have not seen someone with a problem like yours.Does the buttons on the base work?(L3,R3,mode button and PS3/PS4 switch)
 
Thanks super_gt no buttons work, PS3/PS4 switch, x button,ps etc:eek:

I'm not sure if the fan inside is working ether.

Was all working fine at the weekend.
 
Anybody knows what additional pedals are compatibile with TM150rs??? Cause original pedals are thrue garbadge in 4 months 3 times broken.
 
Anybody knows what additional pedals are compatibile with TM150rs??? Cause original pedals are thrue garbadge in 4 months 3 times broken.

From http://www.thrustmaster.com/sites/default/files/product/forcefeedback_wheelsbenchmark.pdf

Pedals: 2 (Gas + Brake, but compatible with the T3PA and T3PA Pro)

They connect with a modular jack like this:

429855-40.jpg
 
Hi all,

I am in the precess of shopping for a new wheel in preparation for GT Sport. I was have read through the thread and was hoping if anyone could give me any updated recommendations. What would be best at the same price between, a G29 of the T150 Pro? I am coming from years of driving on a a DFGT.

Thank you.
 
Hi all,

I am in the precess of shopping for a new wheel in preparation for GT Sport. I was have read through the thread and was hoping if anyone could give me any updated recommendations. What would be best at the same price between, a G29 of the T150 Pro? I am coming from years of driving on a a DFGT.

Thank you.

The T150 is a solid wheel and getting the t3pa's with the conical break mod makes it a good combo. I have not owned any logitech gear but their internals are older technology (helical gears) and from many reviews can be a bit noisy and I think their peripherals look very toy like.

My advice would be to understand your budget and your desire for racing with a wheel and pedal set. Say you get the logitech gear and you are playing on console in order to update your pedals, add a more realistic shifter, or anything additional you may have to start over if you started with the logitech gear whereas the Thrustmaster wheel is apart of an eco-system and will allow you to add without potentially having to start anew (pedal set).

As far as the T150... I owned it for about 3 months before my curiosity got the best of me and I upgraded to the T300 which is night and day better in regards to the fidelity of the force feedback. But... before I had run the T300 I was plenty happy with the feel of the T150.
 

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The T150 is a solid wheel and getting the t3pa's with the conical break mod makes it a good combo. I have not owned any logitech gear but their internals are older technology (helical gears) and from many reviews can be a bit noisy and I think their peripherals look very toy like.

My advice would be to understand your budget and your desire for racing with a wheel and pedal set. Say you get the logitech gear and you are playing on console in order to update your pedals, add a more realistic shifter, or anything additional you may have to start over if you started with the logitech gear whereas the Thrustmaster wheel is apart of an eco-system and will allow you to add without potentially having to start anew (pedal set).

As far as the T150... I owned it for about 3 months before my curiosity got the best of me and I upgraded to the T300 which is night and day better in regards to the fidelity of the force feedback. But... before I had run the T300 I was plenty happy with the feel of the T150.


Thanks for the reply. I will do some thinking and will put all of this into consideration and make my decision. Yeah the T300 just isn't in the faceable budget, though I know its the better wheel in the long run.

Nice set up by the way, I long for the day I can piece together my own.

Thanks again
 
Hi all,

I am in the precess of shopping for a new wheel in preparation for GT Sport. I was have read through the thread and was hoping if anyone could give me any updated recommendations. What would be best at the same price between, a G29 of the T150 Pro? I am coming from years of driving on a a DFGT.

Thank you.
I haven't tried the G29, but I upgraded from the DFGT to the T150 in January and have had zero issues with it. It's an excellent wheel.
 
I haven't tried the G29, but I upgraded from the DFGT to the T150 in January and have had zero issues with it. It's an excellent wheel.

And the T150 feels like an upgrade or at least comparably to the DFGT to?
 
I would say it's an upgrade. Mainly because it has actual paddle shifters instead of buttons. Force feedback is also better and it's quieter.

Thanks a lot.
I have been pretty much leaning towards the 150 but wanted to ask anyone also might have upgraded from the DFGT. Pulse I can add one as I go with the 150.
 
Thanks a lot.
I have been pretty much leaning towards the 150 but wanted to ask anyone also might have upgraded from the DFGT. Pulse I can add one as I go with the 150.
I've owned a DFGT, a G27, and a T150, and I can definitely say that the T150 is an upgrade from the DFGT. I prefer it over my G27 (which is very similar internally to the G29), and I think if you get the T150 Pro, you're getting a better deal in the long run than the G29 (w/o shifter of course).

However, I will also add that my Logitech equipment has been rock-solid for me. The only thing I've ever had to replace was a G27 shifter a couple years ago (and I thrashed that thing to death), whereas my T150 came with an issue on the belt, and it took me around 2 months just to parlay with customer support and get that whole thing sorted. They were not awful to deal with, but it took much longer than I expected.

Aside from that, I would highly recommend Thrustmaster and their T150.
 
I've owned a DFGT, a G27, and a T150, and I can definitely say that the T150 is an upgrade from the DFGT. I prefer it over my G27 (which is very similar internally to the G29), and I think if you get the T150 Pro, you're getting a better deal in the long run than the G29 (w/o shifter of course).

However, I will also add that my Logitech equipment has been rock-solid for me. The only thing I've ever had to replace was a G27 shifter a couple years ago (and I thrashed that thing to death), whereas my T150 came with an issue on the belt, and it took me around 2 months just to parlay with customer support and get that whole thing sorted. They were not awful to deal with, but it took much longer than I expected.

Aside from that, I would highly recommend Thrustmaster and their T150.

Thats the one thing that worries me with the T150, having it having issues not long into its life. I had not read people having to many issues with them though. So I think the T150 will be what I might still go with. It would be my first Thrustmasters wheel, so hopefully it works out well.

Thanks you for the feed back.
 
And the T150 feels like an upgrade or at least comparably to the DFGT to?
The T150 force feedback is more smooth and quiet than DFGT,but the strength of the force feedback and the internal friction of the driving mechanism is approximately the same on both wheels.If you want stronger force feedback end less internal friction you will need T300.
 
Thrustmaster T150 Friction Free Mod

Step 1:Thrustmaster T150 ball bearings belt tensioners mod.

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My advice is to buy quality made/expensive bearings.
Ball bearings dimensions:
Internal diameter-3mm.
External diameter-8mm.
Width-4mm.
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Attention:
this mod will void your wheel warranty!
Attention:before loosening the bolt of the belt tensioner mark the exact position of the belt tensioner (as in the picture,use something sharp)because you will have to return it to the exactly same position when you finish!
There is a hole in the front cover in which there is a rubber pad,remove it and you will have access to the bolt.(see the bottom picture)
You will also need about twenty washers for M3 bolts.The shaft of the belt tensioners is about 11mm. long and the ball bearings width is 8mm.You will fill this gap with washers.
This mod can be made without disassembling the entire front end of the steering wheel,simply remove the top cover(it is a little tricky to be made like that but can be done)
This mod will reduce the friction which will make your wheel little smoother, little faster and you will feel little more details in the force feedback especially around the center of the wheel,you will also feel better when the car start to oversteer.

This is step 2:ball bearings in the gear wheel(I'm not sure how reliable this step is):
Ball bearings dimensions:
Internal diameter-6mm.
External diameter-10mm.
Width-2,5mm.
I used two ball bearings from this side:

snapshot_20161231_4-jpg.625253


and one from this side:

snapshot_20161231_5-jpg.625254


Step 3:Ball bearing in the electric motor is ready and the friction free mod is complete.
If I have to be honest this mod is not completely friction free,there is still some friction if over-tighten the belt but much less than before.Six holes in the motor for better cooling.
Ball bearing dimensions:
NSK 604 ZZMC3E
Internal diameter-4mm.
External diameter-12mm.
Width-4mm.
The electric motor shaft is 3.17mm for that you need to make a bushing(I'm not sure if this is the correct term,you will see it if you look at the photos)

Snapshot_20170803_1.JPG
Snapshot_20170803_2.JPG
Snapshot_20170815_1.JPG


I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO STEP 2 AND 3 BECAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL!
 
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Hi guys, sorry for reviving this, but I've just bought a T150 and I'd like to retrim the rim and paint the shifting paddles. Can anyone provide any info about dismantling the rim only and how safe is to remove the paddles?

Also, I'd like to change the cheap plastic face from the pedals to something metal, is there anything specific to look for, or custom make some aluminium ones?

Thank you!
 
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Hi guys, sorry for reviving this, but I've just bought a T150 and I'd like to retrim the rim and paint the shifting paddles. Can anyone provide any info about dismantling the rim only and how safe is to remove the paddles?

Also, I'd like to change the cheap plastic face from the pedals to something metal, is there anything specific to look for, or custom make some aluminium ones?

Thank you!
I've never heard anyone do these three things,so the probability of getting the information you need is small.
Welcome to GTP,you must be the oldest member here.;)
 
I've never heard anyone do these three things,so the probability of getting the information you need is small.
Welcome to GTP,you must be the oldest member here.;)

Thanks for the warm welcome! I think that I was misunderstood, as I didn't ask how to do those things, but I would like information about opening the wheel and removing the rim only. I see that you already opened the wheel to change the bearings.

Thanks!
 
I see that you already opened the wheel to change the bearings.
Only the base not the wheel,and now the wheel warranty is violated.

Thanks for the warm welcome! I think that I was misunderstood, as I didn't ask how to do those things, but I would like information about opening the wheel and removing the rim only.
Good luck!👍
 
Ok, wheel, base, I think we're referring to the same thing, let's communicate easier using this:

base ( self explaining ) and rim ( the actual steering wheel ).

My question to you is, when you opened the base, could you notice screws that could separate the rim from the base? Or the paddles as well?
 
My question to you is, when you opened the base, could you notice screws that could separate the rim from the base?
There are two screws,one here and one below:

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The two screws that hold the rim to the shaft are glued and once unscrewed they will always loosen during game play.
To separate the rim from the base you have to push through the wheel shaft this connector:

Snapshot_20170817.JPG.4ebe1fc16593edcf41d862ed9b575df9.JPG


My advice is to use an assistant because it is very tight.
 
Hi guys, sorry for reviving this, but I've just bought a T150 and I'd like to retrim the rim and paint the shifting paddles. Can anyone provide any info about dismantling the rim only and how safe is to remove the paddles?

Also, I'd like to change the cheap plastic face from the pedals to something metal, is there anything specific to look for, or custom make some aluminium ones?

Thank you!
Also as far as the pedals go, the faces that come on the stock T300 pedals are metal IIRC so if you can find some of those it should be a perfect fit
 
Alright sorry for bumping this if dead but does anyone know a good table or something I can mount the wheel to. I don't need a full seat just something to hold the wheel in one spot solid. I just got the TMX today so holy cow what a difference from the old PS2 driving force I used to have ages ago
 
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