Thrustmaster T150/TMX Force Feedback Racing Wheels

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Danyutz
It's a common issue with this pedalset. Brake spring is thicker.
Click to expand...
I didn't know they were still using those torsion springs as they changed their other pedals to compression springs after all of the issues with the early T3PA Pro (V1) pedals.
I happen to have the old model T3PA Pro (V1) pedals and they have the same torsion spring set up and I'd hate to think how many springs I broke over the 7ish years I was using them before I changed to T3PGT (with load cells) pedals.
 
Maybe you talking about the t500rs pedals v1 ang v2 pedals,that has a torsion spring.the t3pa pro is a newer model.i know that thing has a compression spring.
 
decks01
Maybe you talking about the t500rs pedals v1 ang v2 pedals,that has a torsion spring.the t3pa pro is a newer model.i know that thing has a compression spring.
Click to expand...
T500rs had T3PA Pro pedals (V1's had torsion springs):
https://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t3pa-pro-add

You're thinking of T3PA pedals:
https://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t3pa-add

and T-GT has T3PGT pedals.
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Mine have the t500rs model that has the torsion spring .it was made in 2011. The newer t3pa pro. I think was made in in 2015. That has the compression spring.

My t500rs v2 pedals with my parts torsion spring
 

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The t3pa and the t3pgt is the difference is the pedal arm.the t3pa has a plastic arm while the t3p gt has a metal arm and also wider foot pedal.
 
decks01
Mine have the t500rs model that has the torsion spring .it was made in 2011. The newer t3pa pro. I think was made in in 2015. That has the compression spring.

My t500rs pedals with my parts torsion spring
Click to expand...
T500rs switched from using the torsion springs to compression springs somewhere around Version 2 or Version 3 (I can't recall exactly, mine were made in 2010, Version 1). They also changed the brake mod for the T500rs at the same time as the springs. Then they started selling them separately and called them Pro's.... but they're the same thing ;).
 
Yup.i know,i just miss understand your explanation,somewhere in the line you said the t3pa pro v1.cuz mine i call it t500rs pedal.but your right they are the same.only diffirence is the torsion vs compression and the pedal color.thanks.
 
Good evening, everyone! I own a T150 pro since november 2018, and recently, while it calibrates itself, I hear a rattle sound, but only when it turns left. Then, when I start playing, mainly GTS, I continue to hear this rattle sound while I turn left, like a friction sound between the gears. Kinda strange, as I never heard this rattling before, for almost a year. I'm kinda scared something broke inside the wheel. Has anyone of you ever had a similar situation?
 
ExplorerPhs
Good evening, everyone! I own a T150 pro since november 2018, and recently, while it calibrates itself, I hear a rattle sound, but only when it turns left. Then, when I start playing, mainly GTS, I continue to hear this rattle sound while I turn left, like a friction sound between the gears. Kinda strange, as I never heard this rattling before, for almost a year. I'm kinda scared something broke inside the wheel. Has anyone of you ever had a similar situation?
Click to expand...
It's hard to say without opening it. Does the wheel loose calibration?
 
super_gt
It's hard to say without opening it. Does the wheel loose calibration?
Click to expand...
The wheel works actually fine, in the calibration phase, it calibrates itself as ever. And does not lose any FFB in the game. Technically it works perfectly, except for that "rattling" sound.
 
ExplorerPhs
Nope, the sound is exactly like this one:
Click to expand...

If the wheel is still in warranty, contact Thrustmaster and see what they say.
If the wheel is out of warranty, open it right away to see where the problem is. There may be a problem with the belt but this is just a guess, and if this is the case it will get worse over time.
 
I just wanted to chime in.
I saw this thread and followed his directions to do this mod to my very own t150.
I must say that it went flawlessly and was a complete success.
This mod is AMAZING.

One of the biggest drawbacks of the t150 is that it is slow. Also you can feel a lot of flex in the belts through the force feedback.
Adding the ballbearings completely eliminated the sluggish slowness. And cut out most of the flex as well.

The wheel feels very similar to a t300rs/tx now.

Even the strength is not very far off.
I think the t300 loses a bit more of its bigger motor strength through its drivetrain than the t150 does. So it almost evens out.
Also the t150's lightweight plastic wheel makes you feel the smaller motor better.

Anyways, amazing mod. And it only cost me $5.
 
I have a T150 wheel and have recently moved house. I went to set up my wheel and can't seem to find the power cord anywhere. Are there any Australian users (or any users generally) who can advise of the output shown on there power supply so I can try to source a replacement?

My Google powers can't seem to find the info online.
 
cpl_richie
I have a T150 wheel and have recently moved house. I went to set up my wheel and can't seem to find the power cord anywhere. Are there any Australian users (or any users generally) who can advise of the output shown on there power supply so I can try to source a replacement?

My Google powers can't seem to find the info online.
Click to expand...
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/t150-power-adapter.347123/

I have T150 but mine has internal power supply and i measured it 24 volts.
 
super_gt
Thrustmaster T150 Friction Free Mod

Step 1:Thrustmaster T150 ball bearings belt tensioners mod.

%D0%BB%D0%B0%D0%B3%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B8-%D0%B7%D0%B0-%D0%BE%D0%B1%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B3%D0%B0%D1%87-png.624515

My advice is to buy quality made/expensive bearings.
Ball bearings dimensions:
Internal diameter-3mm.
External diameter-8mm.
Width-4mm.
%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%B7%D0%B8%D1%86%D0%B8%D1%8F-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D0%BE%D0%BF%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B3%D0%B0%D1%87%D0%B0-png.624516

l8pQj9w.jpg


Attention:this mod will void your wheel warranty!
Attention:before loosening the bolt of the belt tensioner mark the exact position of the belt tensioner (as in the picture,use something sharp)because you will have to return it to the exactly same position when you finish!
There is a hole in the front cover in which there is a rubber pad,remove it and you will have access to the bolt.(see the bottom picture)
You will also need about twenty washers for M3 bolts.The shaft of the belt tensioners is about 11mm. long and the ball bearings width is 8mm.You will fill this gap with washers.
This mod can be made without disassembling the entire front end of the steering wheel,simply remove the top cover(it is a little tricky to be made like that but can be done)
This mod will reduce the friction which will make your wheel little smoother, little faster and you will feel little more details in the force feedback especially around the center of the wheel,you will also feel better when the car start to oversteer.

This is step 2:ball bearings in the gear wheel(I'm not sure how reliable this step is):
Ball bearings dimensions:
Internal diameter-6mm.
External diameter-10mm.
Width-2,5mm.
I used two ball bearings from this side:

snapshot_20161231_4-jpg.625253


and one from this side:

snapshot_20161231_5-jpg.625254


Step 3:Ball bearing in the electric motor is ready and the friction free mod is complete.
If I have to be honest this mod is not completely friction free,there is still some friction if over-tighten the belt but much less than before.Six holes in the motor for better cooling.
Ball bearing dimensions:
NSK 604 ZZMC3E
Internal diameter-4mm.
External diameter-12mm.
Width-4mm.
The electric motor shaft is 3.17mm for that you need to make a bushing(I'm not sure if this is the correct term,you will see it if you look at the photos)

View attachment 667038 View attachment 667039 View attachment 667040

I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO STEP 2 AND 3 BECAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL!
Click to expand...
Change in the first step of the Thrustmaster T150 Friction Free Mod and more specifically removing the belt tensioners.

DSC00053.JPG


This results in less friction, which is now less than the T300rs friction and about the same level or slightly higher than the G29. The wheel is also smoother and faster than before. The biggest benefit of this when the back of the car starts to slide, it is much easier to feel and correct the slide.

Note: the increased speed you will see in this video comes entirely from the reduced friction, I have not changed the motor or power supply.

 
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If anyone needs a spare belt for T150/TMX this is the one you need:
Belt length(Pitch length): 224mm
Pitch(the distance from the tip of one tooth to the tip of other tooth): 2mm
Number of teeth: 112
Belt width: 9mm
Gates PowerGrip GT3 224-2MGT3-9
 
I’ve had my T150 for about 3 years now and I think it might have just died.
Was driving in GT Sport. I paused the game mid-corner to change the camera and when I resumed, I lost all FFB resistance when turning left. I unplugged the wheel and plugged it back in to recalibrate and see if it would fix it. Then this happened...
 
Dylan
I’ve had my T150 for about 3 years now and I think it might have just died.
Was driving in GT Sport. I paused the game mid-corner to change the camera and when I resumed, I lost all FFB resistance when turning left. I unplugged the wheel and plugged it back in to recalibrate and see if it would fix it. Then this happened...
Click to expand...

It seems to me that there is a lot of friction that prevents the electric motor from turning the steering wheel to the right. Can you feel a lot of friction when you turn the steering wheel with power off?
Remove the top cover and check for a problem in the drive system(making a video can help).
 
super_gt
It seems to me that there is a lot of friction that prevents the electric motor from turning the steering wheel to the right. Can you feel a lot of friction when you turn the steering wheel with power off?
Remove the top cover and check for a problem in the drive system(making a video can help).
Click to expand...
Yeah. There’s quite a bit of friction.

It feels like the gears are binding up with each other.
 
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@jovani7600
There are two bolts on top:

DSC00246.JPG


And one below.
There are also two screws at the bottom of the wheel base.
You will need to unscrew both steering wheel screws and detach it from the shaft.



You will need to put thread lock on two screws that hold the steering wheel to the shaft to prevent unscrewing of the screws.
I'm answering you here because someone else might be interested.:)
 
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