Thrustmaster T300 Calibration Issues

[kevinallein]

Hi all, the thread is a bit old now, but I have a similar case. I actually have two broken T300 bases, both will not calibrate. I disassembled the motor with the instructions in the pdf and glued it with 2 component glue. I also 3D printed a new hall sensor mount. However my motor will never finish auto calibration with the calibration tool. The hall sensor mount stl I found seems to have a pretty wide gap between the magnet and the sensor PCB. How wide should that gap actually be ?
Any other suggestions ? How can I narrow down, what the problem is ?

 

[nachtramm]

Hi all, the thread is a bit old now, but I have a similar case. I actually have two broken T300 bases, both will not calibrate. I disassembled the motor with the instructions in the pdf and glued it with 2 component glue. I also 3D printed a new hall sensor mount. However my motor will never finish auto calibration with the calibration tool. The hall sensor mount stl I found seems to have a pretty wide gap between the magnet and the sensor PCB. How wide should that gap actually be ?
Any other suggestions ? How can I narrow down, what the problem is ?

Same here, did you find a solution? I mean I got this problem several years ago and still have 2 broken T300 Bases here, replaced several parts and everything but the calibration issue still exists... maybe I will give it another try now, haha.

 

[kevinallein]

Unfortunately I had no idea what to do. Put the parts back in a big box and was hoping to get some tips here.

 

[f1_pilot]

Hello from Germany, to Germany :-D

Same here @kevinallein and @nachtramm

Habe 2 Base, both with the same problem and no solution...

 

[nachtramm]

Hello from Germany, to Germany :-D

Same here @kevinallein and @nachtramm

Habe 2 Base, both with the same problem and no solution...

Yeah Iam not sure if I want to start "tinkering" again ... without any new hints about the problem, it doesnt make sense

 

[hose2001]

Hi, I have the same problem. I disassembled the engine and will be started gluing it. The question is, does this white line on the magnet have any significance? How should I position it relative to the axis or cutout? Does it not matter?

 

[hose2001]

Ah ok, I see what you're trying to say. First of all, I don't have any measurements, and my motor is already installed and working so no chance of measuring it... But I'll try and help with references to the photos I took when I attempted the fix.

View attachment 1004848 View attachment 1004847 (lvl 9000 ms paint )

I didn't think you could move the brash bushings (1), and even if it is, it's unlikely that you moved them by accident, as there's no force applied to them at any point during the disassembly. If you are positive that you moved them, then maybe the photos above could serve as some sort of reference for moving them back to the correct place.

If not, then we come to the positioning of the black magnet cylinder. As you can see in the second photo, it should sit equidistantly to the silver cylinder thingies (2), so that the distances A and B are roughly equal. This will ensure, (assuming that 1 was not moved, or you managed to put it back in place), that the magnet is sitting at the right place in the motor.



If you've put everything back together, and the motor is turning freely, that means that the ball bearings and the cover are aligned properly. If at this point the hall sensor magnet is sitting a few mm further than it used to be, that is fine, mine was the same but the wheel is working perfectly ok. If it is more than a few mm, then it is possible to remove the black plastic that holds the hall sensor magnet (but carefully because it is glued, and it's very easy to break), and glue it back a few mm higher so it sits closer to the pcb.

hello, I have 4.1 mm in place "A" on picture.

 

[Pnc-rs3]

Hi all, the thread is a bit old now, but I have a similar case. I actually have two broken T300 bases, both will not calibrate. I disassembled the motor with the instructions in the pdf and glued it with 2 component glue. I also 3D printed a new hall sensor mount. However my motor will never finish auto calibration with the calibration tool. The hall sensor mount stl I found seems to have a pretty wide gap between the magnet and the sensor PCB. How wide should that gap actually be ?
Any other suggestions ? How can I narrow down, what the problem is ?

Did you use calibration tool without the wheel on? After the glue process?

You have an answer on that stl post with another person that reduced the gap to the sensor.

 

[Echermeia]

Hi Folks,

I stumbled upon a used T300RS at "kleinanzeigen" here in germany and bought one with a seat for € 230,-. Everything went fine - for about two days . I started my repairing journey recently and hope my wheel base will be fixed soon, but I found some facts that let me struggle ...

But now to the storyline:

Background Information

• Started using the T300RS with Gran Turismo Sport on my PS4
• Everything went fine from the beginning
• I played maybe 2-3 sessions, each about 2-3 hours.
• My FFB setting in GT Sports: Strength 9/10 (max); Sensitivity 5/6 (approx. middle position)
• Didn't recognize much heat, everything went fine, although settings were high (I really loved it )

Start of Struggle

• I changed to DirtRally and FFB was gone
• After replugging the USB cable, or resetting PS4--> no improvement
• changed back to GT Sports again to check --> no FFB anymore
• I observed that automatic calibration changed a bit: steering wheel would not stay in center position after turning from the left to the right endstop (in the beginning it stopped perfectly centered). But at least it stopped.

Research
After reading posts and watching youtube videos, I did the following steps:

• waiting for 30-60 Minutes in order to let cool down the motor, even if it was not remarkebly hot --> FFB didn't came back
• resetting Center Positon by pressing MODE+SHARE+PS Buttons --> wheel base LED flashed shortly --> no FFB
• checking for PS4 mode to be enabled correctly --> yes --> no FFB
• installed Thrustmaster drivers and software for PC and checked Angle Sensor Values --> Position is calculated correctly, although wheel is not centered after calibration --> Sofware shows correct wheel angle --> hall sensor works properly I guess
• tried FFB trigger buttons within same software tool & via wheel buttons --> no FFB at all - not a bit man
• reinstalled Wheel Base Firmware --> no improvement
• tried Calibration Tool from Thrustmaster --> starts working, but am some point the log says "STALL DETECTED" all the time --> although waited 10 min --> no result --> no FFB

Disassembly

• checked for cracks of HAL sensor mount --> seems quite good (in general almost new overall hardware condition I got here)
• the gear that represents the endstop (black housing with aluminium rod inside) was in good shape, although the grease can be renewed
• checked rotor shaft magnet after disassbemling this guy --> could not even turn the magnet a little bit!

Last point is annoying because my hope was that this is the problem here.​

Fortunately I could manage to order a new motor and hope I can fix it by changing this, but I really struggle with this solution because of the old motor beeing obviously in a good condition. Also I could not find the exact same problem description by anyone online. Maybe it is a problem with the curcuit board...

I'll keep you updated after the reassambly with the other motor will be finished, but I would appreciate it, if you guys could tell me your thoughts on my ****** problem here.

Thanks and Regards,
Fabian