Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[Awong124]

I like the rubber rim. Easier to clean than leather and will not absorb sweat.

That is not the case. The rubber is a bit sticky, and dust sticks to it more than the leather. Neither will absorb sweat. Also, the rubber rim design in this case has a dimpled texture, so it has hundreds of small recesses on the surface that trap dirt. I just wipe my leather wheel with a damp cloth once in a while. I would imagine the alcantara rim might be difficult to clean and absorb sweat, but not the leather one.

 

[skazz]

That is not the case. The rubber is a bit sticky, and dust sticks to it more than the leather. Neither will absorb sweat. Also, the rubber rim design in this case has a dimpled texture, so it has hundreds of small recesses on the surface that trap dirt. I just wipe my leather wheel with a damp cloth once in a while. I would imagine the alcantara rim might be difficult to clean and absorb sweat, but not the leather one.

It's a very firm rubber, so not as bad as you think. About the only time the texture is annoying is when you try to catch the rim on a T500 spinning at full speed drifting.

 

[Awong124]

It's a very firm rubber, so not as bad as you think. About the only time the texture is annoying is when you try to catch the rim on a T500 spinning at full speed drifting.

I have the wheel and used it for a very brief period. I didn't say the texture was annoying, just that it has a tendency to trap dirt.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

After trying a GTS build with a T300 at GT Academy event last weekend, I'm not so sure the T300 is worth it anymore. It may be due to wear and tear or unoptimized FFB settings (GTS build was running CSS 3, FFT 5, FFS 8), but the T300 I (briefly) used didn't really do anything special compared to my G25. It is smoother but it didn't feel significantly more like a real car to me. I went home and tried my G25, same car, same track, same FFB settings and it felt pretty much equal (more notchy obviously, but I'm ok with that). With FFT 10 the G25 felt much better. Pedals are much better compared to stock T300 too.

Maybe my expectations are just too high, but after that experience I'm 99% sure that the G29 will be my next gen choice. I'm still going to wait until the last moment to buy though, just in case a new wheel comes up.

Another question for long time T300 users: how much of a difference does firmware updates do to FFB? Could it be the wheel I used at GTS wasn't updated to latest software?

 

[ynot]

After trying a GTS build with a T300 at GT Academy event last weekend, I'm not so sure the T300 is worth it anymore. It may be due to wear and tear or unoptimized FFB settings (GTS build was running CSS 3, FFT 5, FFS 8), but the T300 I (briefly) used didn't really do anything special compared to my G25. It is smoother but it didn't feel significantly more like a real car to me. I went home and tried my G25, same car, same track, same FFB settings and it felt pretty much equal (more notchy obviously, but I'm ok with that). With FFT 10 the G25 felt much better. Pedals are much better compared to stock T300 too.

Maybe my expectations are just too high, but after that experience I'm 99% sure that the G29 will be my next gen choice. I'm still going to wait until the last moment to buy though, just in case a new wheel comes up.

Another question for long time T300 users: how much of a difference does firmware updates do to FFB? Could it be the wheel I used at GTS wasn't updated to latest software?

Not sure why some want to use FFB settings to 10. Seems like excessive wear and strain on the wheel parts. I run my 300 at 2. Plenty good.

 

[Awong124]

After trying a GTS build with a T300 at GT Academy event last weekend, I'm not so sure the T300 is worth it anymore. It may be due to wear and tear or unoptimized FFB settings (GTS build was running CSS 3, FFT 5, FFS 8), but the T300 I (briefly) used didn't really do anything special compared to my G25. It is smoother but it didn't feel significantly more like a real car to me. I went home and tried my G25, same car, same track, same FFB settings and it felt pretty much equal (more notchy obviously, but I'm ok with that). With FFT 10 the G25 felt much better. Pedals are much better compared to stock T300 too.

Maybe my expectations are just too high, but after that experience I'm 99% sure that the G29 will be my next gen choice. I'm still going to wait until the last moment to buy though, just in case a new wheel comes up.

Another question for long time T300 users: how much of a difference does firmware updates do to FFB? Could it be the wheel I used at GTS wasn't updated to latest software?

My guess would be that GTS doesn't really have optimized FFB code to really showcase the wheel's true capabilities and qualities. GT's FFB feel have never been particularly nuanced in my experience. I remember trying my T300 on GT6 and didn't really feel it was that special either, but it feels sublime on PCARS. If your plan for next gen is only going to consist of GT games, then a T300 might not be worth it. But if you're going to play PCARS, AC, or Dirt Rally, etc, then it might be worth it.

As for firmware, I can't really answer that because I haven't updated mine since I got the wheel over a year ago.

Not sure why some want to use FFB settings to 10. Seems like excessive wear and strain on the wheel parts. I run my 300 at 2. Plenty good.

Because the G25/27/29 is very weak compared to the T300. Running a G-wheel at 10 is probably equivalent to running the T300 at 3 or 4. Running a T300 at 10 is like wrestling a bear.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Not sure why some want to use FFB settings to 10. Seems like excessive wear and strain on the wheel parts. I run my 300 at 2. Plenty good.

My FFB history is quote bipolar actually I started with FFB 10 way back in GT5P and GT5 days. Then with GT6 I progressively lowered it to 1. I moved on to PC sims 2 years ago and after this going back to GT6 with FFB 1 I can't feel anything. I have to crank it up to 10 again. This gives clipping, but it's the only way to get any amount of decent feedback because GT's FFB is just so vague and undetailed compared to PC sims.

This is all with G25 mind you. I imagine T300 is much stronger. Which is why I'm surprised that T300 at 5 in GTS event is not that much stronger than my G25 at 5, and it's certainly not stronger than G25 at 10.

My guess would be that GTS doesn't really have optimized FFB code to really showcase the wheel's true capabilities and qualities. GT's FFB feel have never been particularly nuanced in my experience. I remember trying my T300 on GT6 and didn't really feel it was that special either, but it feels sublime on PCARS. If your plan for next gen is only going to consist of GT games, then a T300 might not be worth it. But if you're going to play PCARS, AC, or Dirt Rally, etc, then it might be worth it.

As for firmware, I can't really answer that because I haven't updated mine since I got the wheel over a year ago.

Yeah possibly. I'm only buying a new wheel because my G25 isn't compatible with PS4. Otherwise I'm quite happy to stick with my 8 year old G25 tank

I'm only getting GTS and Driveclub on PS4. Other sims I play on PC. There's also talks of PD supporting legacy wheels recently, so I'm not gonna rush and buy anything just yet.

Just curious why haven't you updated the firmware?

Maybe our resident wheel master @skazz can answer the firmware question

 

[Awong124]

My FFB history is quote bipolar actually I started with FFB 10 way back in GT5P and GT5 days. Then with GT6 I progressively lowered it to 1. I moved on to PC sims 2 years ago and after this going back to GT6 with FFB 1 I can't feel anything. I have to crank it up to 10 again. This gives clipping, but it's the only way to get any amount of decent feedback because GT's FFB is just so vague and undetailed compared to PC sims.

This is all with G25 mind you. I imagine T300 is much stronger. Which is why I'm surprised that T300 at 5 in GTS event is not that much stronger than my G25 at 5, and it's certainly not stronger than G25 at 10.



Yeah possibly. I'm only buying a new wheel because my G25 isn't compatible with PS4. Otherwise I'm quite happy to stick with my 8 year old G25 tank

I'm only getting GTS and Driveclub on PS4. Other sims I play on PC. There's also talks of PD supporting legacy wheels recently, so I'm not gonna rush and buy anything just yet.

Just curious why haven't you updated the firmware?

Maybe our resident wheel master @skazz can answer the firmware question

Because I'm lazy. And last time I checked, the only firmware update after the one I have just allows for you to activate the fan manually, which I find kind of useless.

 

[ynot]

Because I'm lazy. And last time I checked, the only firmware update after the one I have just allows for you to activate the fan manually, which I find kind of useless.

I'm a believer of if it is working fine then leave it alone. Firmware update could just cause more problems.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I'm a believer of if it is working fine then leave it alone. Firmware update could just cause more problems.

Fair enough. This has crossed my mind too. So that's why I'm asking if there are any significant changes in FFB from old firmware to new one. If the updates are just to add useless features (like the fan activation mentioned above) then I would probably just leave it alone.

 

[skazz]

Until very recently you could see the history of what each firmware update brought on the Thrustmaster support site. Sadly that has gone with the new site layout from a few weeks ago:
https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rs-en/

Mostly firmware updates on the T500/T300/TX have been about one of the following reasons:

• Changes to fan operation (e.g. Firmware 25 on the T300)
• Adding support for new wheel rims (e.g. Firmware 41 and 43 on T500)

In many cases this means firmware updates are not essential, however I've always updated both my Thrustmaster wheels to the latest firmware when it arrives, and so far had no issues. But I always make sure to be careful, which means:

1. Only plug the wheel into a PC USB 2.0 port (grey not blue colored)
2. Make sure you have PS3 mode set when plugging T300 into the PC
3. Make sure the wheel is properly detected in the drivers and fully functioning before clicking the firmware upgrade button
4. When installing new drivers (which contain the new firmware), always unplug the wheel, uninstall the old drivers, reboot, install the new drivers, plug in the wheel only when told to do so by the new driver installation wizard

Hope this helps

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Until very recently you could see the history of what each firmware update brought on the Thrustmaster support site. Sadly that has gone with the new site layout from a few weeks ago:
https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rs-en/

Mostly firmware updates on the T500/T300/TX have been about one of the following reasons:

• Changes to fan operation (e.g. Firmware 25 on the T300)
• Adding support for new wheel rims (e.g. Firmware 41 and 43 on T500)

In many cases this means firmware updates are not essential, however I've always updated both my Thrustmaster wheels to the latest firmware when it arrives, and so far had no issues. But I always make sure to be careful, which means:

1. Only plug the wheel into a PC USB 2.0 port (grey not blue colored)
2. Make sure you have PS3 mode set when plugging T300 into the PC
3. Make sure the wheel is properly detected in the drivers and fully functioning before clicking the firmware upgrade button
4. When installing new drivers (which contain the new firmware), always unplug the wheel, uninstall the old drivers, reboot, install the new drivers, plug in the wheel only when told to do so by the new driver installation wizard

Hope this helps

In terms of FFB, have the firmware updates changed anything? From the very first time you got the wheel compared to now, in the same game, does it feel any different?

That makes it sound like a total hassle to update tbh. Is that instruction written somewhere in the manual or on TM website? Some of them are very counterintuitive (like using PS3 mode when plugging into PC) and I imagine it's really easy to muck up the steps if you're not careful. Also steps 3 and 4 are mutually exclusive How can you have the wheel detected in step 3 if you have to unplug it when installing new drivers in step 4?

 

[Awong124]

In terms of FFB, have the firmware updates changed anything? From the very first time you got the wheel compared to now, in the same game, does it feel any different?

That makes it sound like a total hassle to update tbh. Is that instruction written somewhere in the manual or on TM website? Some of them are very counterintuitive (like using PS3 mode when plugging into PC) and I imagine it's really easy to muck up the steps if you're not careful. Also steps 3 and 4 are mutually exclusive How can you have the wheel detected in step 3 if you have to unplug it when installing new drivers in step 4?

TM has instructions on their website. But basically all that is required is having it in PS3 mode before plugging it into the PC, and opening the TM update software and selecting update firmware. Skazz just does all those extra steps to ensure nothing goes wrong. If something does go wrong and the firmware gets corrupted, you'd have to follow an entire other set of procedures to get the wheel working again. Although I don't think you can actually permanently brick the wheel by corrupting the firmware alone, it can be quite a hassle to get it working again. It happened to me when I first got the wheel, and it took me like an hour to figure out how to fix it. The bootloader instructions on TM's website didn't exactly work properly for me, and I had to figure out a work around on my own. So I try not to mess with the wheel's firmware if I don't have to.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

TM has instructions on their website. But basically all that is required is having it in PS3 mode before plugging it into the PC, and opening the TM update software and selecting update firmware. Skazz just does all those extra steps to ensure nothing goes wrong. If something does go wrong and the firmware gets corrupted, you'd have to follow an entire other set of procedures to get the wheel working again. Although I don't think you can actually permanently brick the wheel by corrupting the firmware alone, it can be quite a hassle to get it working again. It happened to me when I first got the wheel, and it took me like an hour to figure out how to fix it. The bootloader instructions on TM's website didn't exactly work properly for me, and I had to figure out a work around on my own. So I try not to mess with the wheel's firmware if I don't have to.

Thanks for that explanation. Still, it sounds like it's more trouble than worth Surely it's not that hard to automate the whole process. Just plug the wheel, click update, and let the program do the rest without us worrying about bricking anything.

Anyway, I was just curious if these firmware updates have an effect of FFB which might explain why the wheel I used at GTS GTA event was so bad. But it seems that's just how the wheel is with GTS.

 

[Awong124]

Thanks for that explanation. Still, it sounds like it's more trouble than worth Surely it's not that hard to automate the whole process. Just plug the wheel, click update, and let the program do the rest without us worrying about bricking anything.

Anyway, I was just curious if these firmware updates have an effect of FFB which might explain why the wheel I used at GTS GTA event was so bad. But it seems that's just how the wheel is with GTS.

That's the way it's supposed to work... in theory. I don't know why there's no kind of safeguard against corrupting the firmware. They maybe could have implemented something like a check to make sure the new firmware is properly installed on the wheel before wiping the old one, or something like that.

 

[skazz]

Early T500 firmware updates had significant changes (e.g. Moving the software up from 125 to 500 Hz update rate). I don't recall feeling any FFB changes on any firmware update since 2013, though.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

A thought just crossed my mind. I couldn't see if the wheel settings in the GTA event was Arcade/Simulation or Power Steering was on/off. That might explain why the wheel is so loose around the center and feels over assisted. Annoying how a formal event can't even have the wheels set up properly.

 

[skazz]

. Also steps 3 and 4 are mutually exclusive How can you have the wheel detected in step 3 if you have to unplug it when installing new drivers in step 4?

Apologies, I didn't intend for the steps to be seen as an order, just things to remember.

You are right, installing new firmware means first doing step 4, then step 3, then going back into the drivers and selecting firmware update.

 

[diptob79]

A thought just crossed my mind. I couldn't see if the wheel settings in the GTA event was Arcade/Simulation or Power Steering was on/off. That might explain why the wheel is so loose around the center and feels over assisted. Annoying how a formal event can't even have the wheels set up properly.

Hi,

The wheels at that GTA event are the ones from last year, even the pods are the same ones.
Some of those wheels are overly abused, played in marathon by thousands of players, 12hrs x5 days at least per city. It is the ultimate test for the wheel so that might reflect the result of years on personal usage.
Power assist was locked on for GTA event, btw.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Hi,

The wheels at that GTA event are the ones from last year, even the pods are the same ones.
Some of those wheels are overly abused, played in marathon by thousands of players, 12hrs x5 days at least per city. It is the ultimate test for the wheel so that might reflect the result of years on personal usage.
Power assist was locked on for GTA event, btw.

That just confirms the poor build quality on Thrustmaster wheels then. My G25 has withstood much much more severe abuse throughout its 8 years lifespan (including 2x24h races in GT5 with Red Bull X1 at max FFB) and it still feels pretty much as good as new.

I think the problem is more due to power assist, as I suspect above. If I turned on power assist in GT6 it feels similar. Again, the organisers should know better and/or PD should lock the settings in these demo builds. It's unacceptable for a competitive event with a real prize at the end to be so poorly optimised.

 

[ynot]

A thought just crossed my mind. I couldn't see if the wheel settings in the GTA event was Arcade/Simulation or Power Steering was on/off. That might explain why the wheel is so loose around the center and feels over assisted. Annoying how a formal event can't even have the wheels set up properly.

What would be proper

 

[LeGeNd-1]

What would be proper

Simulation mode, Power Steering off, CSS 0, FFS 10 and FFT optimised for T300 to reduce clipping as much as possible. Not too light and not too heavy.

 

[limesutam]

Hey Guys.

I'm seriously looking into buying a t300. I have a question regarding the warranty in canada. Specifically in the Toronto area.

How long is it. I was going to buy it from bestbuy but they don't offer any extended protection plans and the description only says 30 days from the manufacturer. I know logitech offers 2 years.

I sent thrustmaster an email a while ago and they haven't responded.

Also do you have to send it back to them or is there somewhere you can drop it off like logitech has.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ynot]

Not sure about Canada but I am in the USA. I had a issue with the pedal set right out of the box. The RJ connector on the pedal cable was defective. The lock tab was laying flat and would not stay in the wheel base. Would slide out after a while. I e-mailed Thrustmaster through their support site and they answered right away. I e-mailed them photos of the serial numbers and attached a copy of the receipt. They sent me a new pedal set right away. New one is good. I replied back that all was working and asked if they wanted the old one back. They said no keep it. I am happy with their support and warranty so far. The wheel is awsome and I am very happy with it so far. I have only had it about 2+ months so we will see how it holds up.

 

[Blood*Specter]

I'm right at a month now. The wheel is very good. I have some slight issues with PS4 losing setup.
I also have problem with using PS4 controller and wheel together. Need to turn controller off.

But the wheel is excellent. I use G27 pedals w/RICKMOTEC adapter. Also not giving me any fan or calibration loss issues.
Also not strange noises coming from inside the base. The wheel has made me a better sim driver.
Excellent with Project Cars too. Have not tried GT6 yet. In fact have not used GT6 since PCars came out LOL

The TH8A shifter is superior to G25, G27 and G29 shifters.

 

[Blood*Specter]

Hey Guys.

I'm seriously looking into buying a t300. I have a question regarding the warranty in canada. Specifically in the Toronto area.

How long is it. I was going to buy it from bestbuy but they don't offer any extended protection plans and the description only says 30 days from the manufacturer. I know logitech offers 2 years.

I sent thrustmaster an email a while ago and they haven't responded.

Also do you have to send it back to them or is there somewhere you can drop it off like logitech has.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Try "shop.ca"

 

[Haulin_Hebrew]

Excellent with Project Cars too. Have not tried GT6 yet. In fact have not used GT6 since PCars came out LOL

When I inserted the P CARS disk into the PS4 I threw my PS3 in the attic and later traded in my GT5 & GT6 disks in for Forza Motorsport 6.

It's Amazing how Kazunori believes he can keep using the same tired old (Give Release Day- Delay Release Day) Marketing tactics, to build a buzz, or anticipation around GT. When better Simulators are on the market now, He is single handedly turning GT Fans into P CARS, Forza Motorsport, and Assetto Corsa fans. In which may never return. We are no longer in the days of GT PlayStation or Forza Motorsport XBOX for A Racing Simulator on Console.


There is A ton of title options on the PlayStation alone now. Kazunori is getting close to PCARS 2 and Forza Motorsport 7 release dates. And personally, I will pick those two title up before GT Sport, if not delay purchasing GT Sport until I have well broke in FM7 and P CARS 2.

To be honest, I'm just purchasing GT Sport out of sentiment as my first Sim title, everything I need in Sim Racing is satisfied in Forza Motorsport and P CARS. So it just irks me how Kaz just keeps repeating his errors.
Nothing from Polyphony Digital on PS4 since it was released 11/2013, going on four years
We're now going into new iterations of the PS4 while PD is still snoozing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I love the pedals on my T300, Great resolution for precision Throttle and Brake control. I may get the T3PA pedals and shifter for Forza Motorsport, So many great classic cars to choose from. I'm sure it will add New life into the title and preparation for FM7.

 

[killerjimbag]

Hey Guys.

I'm seriously looking into buying a t300. I have a question regarding the warranty in canada. Specifically in the Toronto area.

How long is it. I was going to buy it from bestbuy but they don't offer any extended protection plans and the description only says 30 days from the manufacturer. I know logitech offers 2 years.

I sent thrustmaster an email a while ago and they haven't responded.

Also do you have to send it back to them or is there somewhere you can drop it off like logitech has.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Costco, 1 year warranty.

 

[AlexSWE]

Another T300 is dead, lasted little more than a year.
It´s the calibration/spinning thing and nothing seems work. 👎

Problem is what to get now, take another chance on a some version of the T300 or go for the in my opinion not as good game wise Logitech G29...

 

[shoemaker]

Another T300 is dead, lasted little more than a year.
It´s the calibration/spinning thing and nothing seems work. 👎

Problem is what to get now, take another chance on a some version of the T300 or go for the in my opinion not as good game wise Logitech G29...

Return it ! Have you hooked it up to a pc and used the thrustmaster updater software ?