Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter Thread

Which mode do you mostly use with your TH8A?


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Apologies if this is a daft question, but to reduce the lever length and throw, is this achievable by simply cutting the existing shaft down and cutting a new thread (with a proper die kit) for the gear knob to screw on to? Most suggestions seem to involve replacing the shaft rather than just cutting it down/rethreading it. I'm guessing you wouldn't necessarily even need to cut a new thread if the gear knob was fitted with epoxy resin?
 
Apologies if this is a daft question, but to reduce the lever length and throw, is this achievable by simply cutting the existing shaft down and cutting a new thread (with a proper die kit) for the gear knob to screw on to? Most suggestions seem to involve replacing the shaft rather than just cutting it down/rethreading it. I'm guessing you wouldn't necessarily even need to cut a new thread if the gear knob was fitted with epoxy resin?
The usual way to switch between sequential and H-pattern mode is to unscrew the knob so you can switch out the top plate. I guess you could arrange to unscrew the shaft instead of the knob but that would seem to me to be a more irritating job. Hence most people opting for a solution which adjusts shaft length but retains the ability to unscrew the knob.
 
The usual way to switch between sequential and H-pattern mode is to unscrew the knob so you can switch out the top plate. I guess you could arrange to unscrew the shaft instead of the knob but that would seem to me to be a more irritating job. Hence most people opting for a solution which adjusts shaft length but retains the ability to unscrew the knob.
Ah, thanks. Makes sense I guess but I think I'd prefer to have two separate shafts of different lengths with suitable knobs permanently fixed, then swap the whole assembly over when switching between gated and sequential. I'd want a much longer shaft for sequential than I would for gated shifting, and different styles of knobs too. I do all my gaming in my race cockpit so unscrewing the shaft when the shifter isn't in use would also make getting in and out of the cockpit a little easier.
 
Ah, thanks. Makes sense I guess but I think I'd prefer to have two separate shafts of different lengths with suitable knobs permanently fixed, then swap the whole assembly over when switching between gated and sequential. I'd want a much longer shaft for sequential than I would for gated shifting, and different styles of knobs too. I do all my gaming in my race cockpit so unscrewing the shaft when the shifter isn't in use would also make getting in and out of the cockpit a little easier.

This is what I do. I have a DIY short shaft with a $12 shift knob on it that does not spin off. Then I use the original shaft with a hand brake handle forced on over rubber spacers, nuts, and electrical tape. It serves as a sequential shifter or digital handbrake.
 
So what's a best mod to rule them all? I want to have shorter plate mod (with probably less gears than 8) and shorter knob mod. Options I found:
https://www.ricmotech.com/Short_Throw_Shift_Kit_for_the_Thrustmaster_Shifter_p/rmt-tmss.htm
https://www.3drap.it/thru-mods/
https://hsimracing.com/product-category/hardware/accessories/th8/
Personally I've been using the Ricmotech one for over a year and found it to be excellent. Because of the design I've not needed to shorten the shifter shaft, as the extra height of the mod removes the need for that.
 
This is what I do. I have a DIY short shaft with a $12 shift knob on it that does not spin off. Then I use the original shaft with a hand brake handle forced on over rubber spacers, nuts, and electrical tape. It serves as a sequential shifter or digital handbrake.
I've actually sourced a 180mm sequential knob to get it up level with my wheel for easy access and quick shifting. Works great and feels like I imagine those long-lever sequentials do in certain GT cars.

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I could really do with another shaft/knob assembly for gated shifting though.
 
I read the manual but don't understand it (look at my signature please :) ) - if I connect shifter directly to T300 and use it on PS4 with PC2, does it will support h-pattern or sequential only?
 
Ok what am I doing wrong here.

Just put together my new setup, T300RS, TH3PA-PRO, and TH8A (all on a Paginan wheelstand). So my issue stems from the TH8A, which is plugged into the T300RS. In game (GT Sport) on the 1-2 shift, I need to very deliberately clutch all the way in, shift to 2, release clutch, accelerate, if I do it too fast I end up in Neutral. 2-3 and 3-4 I can go as fast as I want, but 1-2 it always does this. Had this missed shift issue with my old G27 on GT5 and GT6, others pointed this out as an in game issue at the time. But I have not been seeing the same complaint levied (or maybe I'm not looking hard enough?). Is there possibly a setting or something I am doing wrong, or some adjustment to be made?
 
Ok what am I doing wrong here.

Just put together my new setup, T300RS, TH3PA-PRO, and TH8A (all on a Paginan wheelstand). So my issue stems from the TH8A, which is plugged into the T300RS. In game (GT Sport) on the 1-2 shift, I need to very deliberately clutch all the way in, shift to 2, release clutch, accelerate, if I do it too fast I end up in Neutral. 2-3 and 3-4 I can go as fast as I want, but 1-2 it always does this. Had this missed shift issue with my old G27 on GT5 and GT6, others pointed this out as an in game issue at the time. But I have not been seeing the same complaint levied (or maybe I'm not looking hard enough?). Is there possibly a setting or something I am doing wrong, or some adjustment to be made?
It's not you, it's GT Sport.

Can you try a different game? Assetto Corsa or Project Cars?
 
Your problem is GT Sport.

Can you try a different game? Assetto Corsa or Project Cars?

I have neither game for PS4, I did play Project Cars on my PC and did not notice this issue, so thats why I'm thinking it may still just be the game, which sucks.
 
Ok what am I doing wrong here.

Just put together my new setup, T300RS, TH3PA-PRO, and TH8A (all on a Paginan wheelstand). So my issue stems from the TH8A, which is plugged into the T300RS. In game (GT Sport) on the 1-2 shift, I need to very deliberately clutch all the way in, shift to 2, release clutch, accelerate, if I do it too fast I end up in Neutral. 2-3 and 3-4 I can go as fast as I want, but 1-2 it always does this. Had this missed shift issue with my old G27 on GT5 and GT6, others pointed this out as an in game issue at the time. But I have not been seeing the same complaint levied (or maybe I'm not looking hard enough?). Is there possibly a setting or something I am doing wrong, or some adjustment to be made?
Your not doing anything wrong.

GTS is.

It requires 100% on the clutch for you to change year and should it waver from that for even a fraction of a second then you get a miss-shift.

Its easily the most inaccurate and annoying clutch model on any title I have come across and renders a H-shifter pointless with GTS.

Thanks fully every other title I have (which is pretty much all of them) works as it should, i.e. you don't need 100% clutch to change gear, as if you real car did the clutch would be ****ed.
 
Well, you should. ;)


Seriously now, I have the same exact setup as you and have that issue with GT Sport as well.
The other games are OK. Assetto Corsa, in particular, is a joy to use with a clutch and H-shifter.

I have Assetto Corsa too, but it and Project Cars are both on PC. They do seem to work fine. Was just hoping GTS would have fixed this issue, I mean I don't understand how they can bill this as a Pro driving game, with such a ridiculous requirement. Is there maybe a way to adjust the clutch engagement range so it reads as fully engaged at a higher point? (Maybe thats a question for a different topic)

Your not doing anything wrong.

GTS is.

It requires 100% on the clutch for you to change year and should it waver from that for even a fraction of a second then you get a miss-shift.

Its easily the most inaccurate and annoying clutch model on any title I have come across and renders a H-shifter pointless with GTS.

Thanks fully every other title I have (which is pretty much all of them) works as it should, i.e. you don't need 100% clutch to change gear, as if you real car did the clutch would be ****ed.

Ugh, I would have figured this would have been fixed by now. And yeah I have been racing real cars for nearly 20 years (and driving stick as well for more than that) and have not burnt any clutches, so I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right. The game... not so much.
 
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Is there maybe a way to adjust the clutch engagement range so it reads as fully engaged at a higher point? (Maybe thats a question for a different topic)
There isn't, no.

It's actually something I'm curious to see: if they'll bother to fix this to a more realistic setting or if they feel it's fine as it is and leave it at that...
 
There isn't, no.

It's actually something I'm curious to see, if they'll bother to fix this to a more realistic setting, or if they feel it's fine as it is and leave it at that...

Considering GT5 and GT6 had the identical problem and now a new game on a new platform also has it, I don't expect it to ever be changed.
 
Considering GT5 and GT6 had the identical problem and now a new game on a new platform also has it, I don't expect it to ever be changed.

There are so many things that PD has not updated in their design.. this is just one of them that they get away with more because the number of people with a shifter is such a small percentage. The lack of evolution even on their next title should be expected not surprising at this point.

I will most likely still end up buying it though :lol:
 
Ok what am I doing wrong here.

Just put together my new setup, T300RS, TH3PA-PRO, and TH8A (all on a Paginan wheelstand). So my issue stems from the TH8A, which is plugged into the T300RS. In game (GT Sport) on the 1-2 shift, I need to very deliberately clutch all the way in, shift to 2, release clutch, accelerate, if I do it too fast I end up in Neutral. 2-3 and 3-4 I can go as fast as I want, but 1-2 it always does this. Had this missed shift issue with my old G27 on GT5 and GT6, others pointed this out as an in game issue at the time. But I have not been seeing the same complaint levied (or maybe I'm not looking hard enough?). Is there possibly a setting or something I am doing wrong, or some adjustment to be made?
Most likely it is GTS but you can plug the shifter into the computer and calibrate/adjust the shift points/gates
 
Most likely it is GTS but you can plug the shifter into the computer and calibrate/adjust the shift points/gates

Yeah you can do this - but it won't help with GTS. It does help if your shifter does not register properly or you switch to a custom plate with shorter gates.
 
Most likely it is GTS but you can plug the shifter into the computer and calibrate/adjust the shift points/gates

I know it won't fix it but I may do this anyway to double check everything is perfectly set.

Yeah you can do this - but it won't help with GTS. It does help if your shifter does not register properly or you switch to a custom plate with shorter gates.

As a side note, I own a lemons team, been running on the east coast since 2009.
 
There are so many things that PD has not updated in their design.. this is just one of them that they get away with more because the number of people with a shifter is such a small percentage. The lack of evolution even on their next title should be expected not surprising at this point.

I will most likely still end up buying it though :lol:

Heck, I’m going out on a limb and suggesting that there are more pad users that play GTS than wheel users. Pad users probably outnumber wheel users for all console games for that matter. Just a hunch.
 
I have been considering this or a Fanatec CSS1.5. I'm leaning more towards this shifter because it will suit my needs nicely. I'll be running it on PC, so I got to see if it will play nice with my CSR wheel. It should because I will be using it as a stand alone shifter. I assume all I would need to do, once I get the shifter is to download Thrusty's drivers and calibrate, correct?
 
I have been considering this or a Fanatec CSS1.5. I'm leaning more towards this shifter because it will suit my needs nicely. I'll be running it on PC, so I got to see if it will play nice with my CSR wheel. It should because I will be using it as a stand alone shifter. I assume all I would need to do, once I get the shifter is to download Thrusty's drivers and calibrate, correct?
Yes install drivers and it will be recognized as a T500RS shifter.

If you want to switch often between H shift and sequential shift then I would recommend the Fanatec 1.5 otherwise the (cheaper but in quality very good) TH8A shifter. I also had this TM shifter before buying the CSL Elite. Afterwards added the Ricmotech adapter ring to make the shifts a bit shorter. You won't regret it.

Enjoy!

PS I only use this shifter with AC, DIRT Rally and PCars 2 on PC and not with GT Sport/PS4Pro
 
I'll be using this as an H pattern shifter only. If I have to use a sequential, I have paddles on the wheel for that. It's one of the reasons I'm leaning towards the TH8, than a CSS.

I really need something to help coordinate my shifting. Right now I am using the clutch pedal and the paddles on my wheel. It works, but the timing with the down shifts is a little weird. With a H-pattern, I can better coordinate when to press and release the clutch pedal. So I am looking forward to getting it.
 
I'll be using this as an H pattern shifter only. If I have to use a sequential, I have paddles on the wheel for that. It's one of the reasons I'm leaning towards the TH8, than a CSS.

I really need something to help coordinate my shifting. Right now I am using the clutch pedal and the paddles on my wheel. It works, but the timing with the down shifts is a little weird. With a H-pattern, I can better coordinate when to press and release the clutch pedal. So I am looking forward to getting it.

The TH8A is a great shifter. You can get mods for it or make your own. I think for the cost, it feels pretty natural more so if you put on your own shift nob with a shorter shaft.

Very durable.

Also on PC it can run in an analog handbrake mode which is very nice and I really wish was supported on consoles. \

If you want to look - this is my horribly done blog post about my DIY short shift kit for it. I kinda just slapped it together so it is rather easy and I have not had to do anything with it. Still works to this day... This also frees up the stock shaft it came with - so you can have a long throw one as well, or use it for making a handbrake handle.
http://socalcolin.blogspot.com/2015/08/diy-custom-short-shift-kit-for-th8a-or.htm
 
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