Tjger Endurance Racing.....CLOSED

  • Thread starter MRTeam
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I started Career mode last night and I like it! Is something different from what I'm used to...

I won't be able to race with non of you until Friday! I am off that day so @MRTeam if you put anything together just for fun and the rest of you will be part of it I will finally have the chance to race with all of you!

:cheers::cheers::cheers:


Here is my very first video



If we do get to race this Friday I will stream the race! That way I can start practicing the streaming and figure it how I am gonna be able to upload our races

EDIT:
I am In Love with this GAME!!!

​
 
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Well after day 2 im totally hooked! The game is becoming more comfortable now. This game aint your fathers oldsmobile, it is a true sim racers dream! Depending on how drunk br got tonight im expecting a new t300rs to join the pack haha. I look forward to tomorrow night. tiger enduros growing by the second, pretty soon we might need more than 16!?!?
 
@MannYhAvitZ You gotta get in on these race man! Been too long since we traded paint. :D

@mphile77 Here are some shots from the crash we were talking about on launch night. Not sure if it was Wallz or Max who I hit after they went sideways.... but it's a good excuse to try the share feature.:cheers:

Project CARS_20150513150526.jpg
Project CARS_20150513150606.jpg
Project CARS_20150513151358.jpg
 
sgohsixthree
@MannYhAvitZ You gotta get in on these race man! Been too long since we traded paint. :D

@mphile77 Here are some shots from the crash we were talking about on launch night. Not sure if it was Wallz or Max who I hit after they went sideways.... but it's a good excuse to try the share feature.:cheers:

View attachment 366120 View attachment 366121 View attachment 366122
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Is up to Tjger if he is planing on doing something this Friday.... I am off that day so I am Hyped to jump in and crash all over the track with you guys :cheers:
 
Friday will probably be another try everything night. There's still so much to figure out.
Today will be a serious day of sit down and start configuring my wheel.
Button assignments. FOV adjusting, Headset hookup, TV adjustment, optical sound adjustment.
Then another few hours of tweaking race settings.


How did you get those pictures?
 
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After this first race we should start looking into fresh tracks, I completely understand spa for first race because we are all new to the game and 24th is close! Love car choice tiger! Been waiting to mess with this car for a while!! Tonight im going to play around with a practice tunning room, we need to see how that all works? See you guys tonight!! Gt6 who?
 
mphile77
After this first race we should start looking into fresh tracks, I completely understand spa for first race because we are all new to the game and 24th is close! Love car choice tiger! Been waiting to mess with this car for a while!! Tonight im going to play around with a practice tunning room, we need to see how that all works? See you guys tonight!! Gt6 who?
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We will in time. Right now I just want to get everyone together on a similar track.
This would accomplish a few things.
1. Allow everyone an opportunity to race with our new members.
2. Get more familiar with Project Cars. Using a track that we're all familiar with will help the transition from GT6 to Project CArs. I don't want to use Formula A cars at Donnington. Makes no sense. The number of possibilities for races is almost endless. What should we do with the additional DLC tracks coming? Right now we're looking at 'every night' an endurance race. You guys ready for that?
3. I still want to explore the many options in Project Cars.

So lets hold on a minute or divide the club into five separate parts. Historic/classic/open wheel/touring/GT.

I'll take one and four guys will step up and be responsible for the other(s).

May 24th is officially a no race day.
I have a sudden out of town distraction that will prevent me from racing that weekend.
 
MRTeam
We will in time. Right now I just want to get everyone together on a similar track.
This would accomplish a few things.
1. Allow everyone an opportunity to race with our new members.
2. Get more familiar with Project Cars. Using a track that we're all familiar with will help the transition from GT6 to Project CArs. I don't want to use Formula A cars at Donnington. Makes no sense. The number of possibilities for races is almost endless. What should we do with the additional DLC tracks coming? Right now we're looking at 'every night' an endurance race. You guys ready for that?
3. I still want to explore the many options in Project Cars.

So lets hold on a minute or divide the club into five separate parts. Historic/classic/open wheel/touring/GT.

I'll take one and four guys will step up and be responsible for the other(s).

May 24th is officially a no race day.
I have a sudden out of town distraction that will prevent me from racing that weekend.
Click to expand...
Ok sounds good, we can race and play around some more for now. Just curious if we will still do that race? If so this gives us something to practice our tunning skills with. I have a little running to do after work then i will be on. I will definitely step up and help out with planning and running events with ya!
 
mphile77
Ok sounds good, we can race and play around some more for now. Just curious if we will still do that race? If so this gives us something to practice our tunning skills with. I have a little running to do after work then i will be on. I will definitely step up and help out with planning and running events with ya!
Click to expand...

More than welcome. The more help the better.
I think for now. Lets' plan and explore Project Cars.
A. Let the guys start their careers.
B. Let all the T500rs get traded in for T300rs
C. Let the additional patches come in.
D. Let the DLC stuff come. Shzzzz, that's an inside secret. Ahhh, it's not a secret.
E. Lets figure out the streaming options.
F. Lets try and match cars with the appropriate circuits.
G. Lets let everyone decide which car(s) they want to drive.
 
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So tell my after a few Days how are you guys enjoying the Game?

Especially Physics and Racing. I know AI in career sucks and there are a lot of bugs.
 
I seem to be driving better than in GT6. I'm guessing the physics have a lot to do with it.

Overall I like it, but the UI and nav sucks bigtime. Finding things and changing settings is not intuitive at all. Maybe with a mouse and keyboard, but not with a controller.
 
Hi got this from a viewer of the show Robert Waddell and thought it would be good to share here as well. I have tried a lot of these adjustments myself with a lot of success. I also produced a video that goes over the many (I counted 37) adjustments to get things to feel right. In the video, I only tweaked about ten though..lol.. Felt really good to me though ! Hope this helps !



Edit: Here's my video too..






PROJECT CARS

In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations.

Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating.

Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here.

Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque.

Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point.

Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force.

Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep.

Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0.

Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off.

Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip.

Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On

General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).


Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.

Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.

Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.

Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.

Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).



___________________________


Notes:
4/16/15
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.

Or: UPDATE
actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.

After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.

Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.

Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):

Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100

Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.

Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.

EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.

FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.

5/6/15
1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want.


2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21.

I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this:

Fx = 80
Fy = 50 to 70 range
Fz = 60 to 70 range
Mz = 100 to 110 range

Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB)


5/7/15
By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.

Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still ):

Spindle Master Scale = 36
Fx = 100
Fy = 60
Fz = 60
Mz = 110
Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).

Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.

bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com


5/7/15
guys its easy....

I have a t300 GTE.

Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims)

I also set in Wheel Pcars menu
FFB 100
Dampening 15
Tyre Force 100

Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.
  • Paul GT73, Andrew_WOT and aKy0001 like this
Darin Gangi

@InsideSimRacing

Inside Sim Racing

UFu4ITf.jpg
 
Not gonna lie, it sucks driving with the DS4 but I'm happy that I don't have to deal with the wheel problems right now....
Really hope you guys get it working!
I miss racing with all of you
:cheers:
 
At spa i have the ruf rgt-8 gt3 down to a 2.20 lap time , this is with all wheel tunning. I havent even started the tunning portion of the car. 37 diff settings just for the wheel haha, shoot me now!
 
Its 230 am my eyes are spinning !!! Tiger and i have been rolling through all wheel settings(check) now time for pit stop testing, fuel testing, tire testing, damage testing, penalty testing, and on and on, haha. We are getting closer little by little, but once we have a few more answers we can race!
 
Hmmm strange i found the FFB out of the Box amazing felt Real to me. The only thing thing I change is the master scale if i think its too weak. Everyone has its preferences but i think ffb is amazing. Also i am super fast in this game. A few things i accomplished.
World Record for GT3 cars on laguna seca.
Various LMP1 records. Second fastest GT3 around the Ring. Still top 20 in the seasonal with a stock car in the clio TT. I changed only Tyre Pressure. Because i suck at tuning. The tuning in this game is massive but more real it wint give you that few seconds advantage thaz GT 6 gives. It will give you only a few tenth and the rest is to suit your driving style which of course also makes you faster.
Also the gaps between drivers seems to be closer than GT6. But i do not need long to get to speed it almost happens instant.
Not like GT were you learn a track in this game you feel it so you dont need that much time to get to the limit i feel
 
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