- 12,486
- CCS
- GTP_Diego
I was looking for a Track Creator FAQ, but found nothing. Though while browsing Reddit I found this , which I think you guys might find interesting, or at least enjoy:
The fiddliest bit when making tracks is the overlaps between two segments; if two 'doodad areas' [where you place signs, tents, etc] would overlap, you can't put a corner/straight/etc there.
Tracks can have one of 5 banking settings; this affects the whole track [as does track width]. Tracks can be between 6m [18'] and 15m [45'] wide; width of the track influences the minimum turn radius.
One of the coolest aspects of it is that you can do live reloads. In the 'Test Drive' mode, whenever you hit 'Load' at the pre-race menu, it'll wait for new data from the app, and load on the fly. GREAT for doing little tweaks and tunes to the track. Drive it, don't like something, tweak, reload in seconds.
There is a 'doodad width area' size control. Tap and hold on any section of track, and it'll give you the option to toggle between two different doodad area widths [labeled Increase Turn Radius and Decrease Turn Radius, depending on which one you're currently on]. Below is a table of sizes [and minimum turn radius] for the smallest, standard, and largest track widths. Or if math works better: 'Decrease Radius' is 15m + track width, standard radius is 25m + track width. (I suck at coding, so feel free to edit this and make it look like a proper table)
Width Step | Doodad Area (x2) | Track Width | Total
-------------------------------------------------------
Step Down | 7.5m | 6m | 21m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 6m | 31m
-------------------------------------------------------
Step Down | 7.5m | 10m | 25m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 10m | 35m
-------------------------------------------------------
1 Step Down | 7.5m | 15m | 30m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 15m | 40m
-------------------------------------------------------
Straightaways must be placed after curves...so you can't chain straights together to make squared-off corners or doglegs. However, see below for those.
One last hint: Placing an anchor sets both its Location and its Initial Direction. After an anchor is created, Location is changed by dragging the anchor itself; the < > icon that shows up along with it allows you to change its final direction, which is useful for making P-curves and the like, or fine-tuning corners.
How to make:
A Hairpin
A Chicane
These aren't going to be the hard-angled Z-corners you're used to in the game, but tight corners can nonetheless serve the purpose. The narrower the track is, the more effective this will be; on a 6m track they can be downright brutal, but at 15m even a tight one will be forgiving. Try to avoid doing this with high banking in a hilly area; the wild flopping of the road will throw cars and hilarity ensues. Not so great for racing, but great for a laugh.
Because of the 'straight' rules, doglegs are possible but not very intuitive. You have to abuse the trait straights have, that they will change their facing to match wherever 'straight' is at the end of the section. Because of that, a preceding curve will change itself to make the new angle possible.
Unfortunately, you can't [or I haven't figured it out yet]. You can, however, chain together doglegs to sorta-kinda do it.
The fiddliest bit when making tracks is the overlaps between two segments; if two 'doodad areas' [where you place signs, tents, etc] would overlap, you can't put a corner/straight/etc there.
Tracks can have one of 5 banking settings; this affects the whole track [as does track width]. Tracks can be between 6m [18'] and 15m [45'] wide; width of the track influences the minimum turn radius.
One of the coolest aspects of it is that you can do live reloads. In the 'Test Drive' mode, whenever you hit 'Load' at the pre-race menu, it'll wait for new data from the app, and load on the fly. GREAT for doing little tweaks and tunes to the track. Drive it, don't like something, tweak, reload in seconds.
There is a 'doodad width area' size control. Tap and hold on any section of track, and it'll give you the option to toggle between two different doodad area widths [labeled Increase Turn Radius and Decrease Turn Radius, depending on which one you're currently on]. Below is a table of sizes [and minimum turn radius] for the smallest, standard, and largest track widths. Or if math works better: 'Decrease Radius' is 15m + track width, standard radius is 25m + track width. (I suck at coding, so feel free to edit this and make it look like a proper table)
Width Step | Doodad Area (x2) | Track Width | Total
-------------------------------------------------------
Step Down | 7.5m | 6m | 21m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 6m | 31m
-------------------------------------------------------
Step Down | 7.5m | 10m | 25m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 10m | 35m
-------------------------------------------------------
1 Step Down | 7.5m | 15m | 30m
-------------------------------------------------------
Standard | 12.5m | 15m | 40m
-------------------------------------------------------
Straightaways must be placed after curves...so you can't chain straights together to make squared-off corners or doglegs. However, see below for those.
One last hint: Placing an anchor sets both its Location and its Initial Direction. After an anchor is created, Location is changed by dragging the anchor itself; the < > icon that shows up along with it allows you to change its final direction, which is useful for making P-curves and the like, or fine-tuning corners.
How to make:
A Hairpin
- Decrease the corner radius for the preceding block.
- Create a new curve, flicking the stylus in a U shape. Don't worry, the app will stop you at exactly 180 degrees.
- Release the Stylus to set the direction.
- Decrease the corner radius of the new curve.
- Drag the anchor where you want it.
A Chicane
These aren't going to be the hard-angled Z-corners you're used to in the game, but tight corners can nonetheless serve the purpose. The narrower the track is, the more effective this will be; on a 6m track they can be downright brutal, but at 15m even a tight one will be forgiving. Try to avoid doing this with high banking in a hilly area; the wild flopping of the road will throw cars and hilarity ensues. Not so great for racing, but great for a laugh.
- Work off of a straightaway.
- Decrease radius.
- Create a very wide Hairpin style 180º angle
- Use the 'change direction' arrows after anchor placement to make it a true S bend.
- Move the anchor, tweaking its position and its final angle until you get what you're after. 35-50m radius is about right; any sharper, and you're looking at a pair of hairpins. It's kinda fiddly, just work, test, and replace.
Because of the 'straight' rules, doglegs are possible but not very intuitive. You have to abuse the trait straights have, that they will change their facing to match wherever 'straight' is at the end of the section. Because of that, a preceding curve will change itself to make the new angle possible.
- Start with a Straightaway.
- Add a curve section. Try to keep it as straight as possible, and shorten it up as much as possible [10-15m seems to be the minimum length, may depend on track width.
- Add another straight section, dragging it in the direction you want the dogleg to go.
Unfortunately, you can't [or I haven't figured it out yet]. You can, however, chain together doglegs to sorta-kinda do it.
