TV Picture Settings - Lots of pics - 56k warning

[wfooshee]

See if it's still there after a few hours off. Mine holds after-images for a few minutes, but I've seen no permanent images.

 

[Endless-Wilso]

No those icons dont hold but the GT5 HUD seems permanent its not bad but could get worse.

You can see it too in the 2nd pic from my last post to .

 

[Sprite]

Ok guys I would like your opinions and help.

I'm going to be viewing Blu-ray quality video through my MacBook Pro via its HDMI out to my Sony HDTV. Any recommendations on colour profiles on the mac side, because unlike a dedicated source (bluray player ect.) it doesn't have the options for Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr that I can see.

Any suggestions would be a great help.

 

[absurd]

lol that is alot of pics!

 

[sems4arsenal]

Not posting screen settings here but I'm having a slight issue with my TV, it seems there is a slight faded shadow on the bottom half of the screen which is always there,it's only noticable when I focus on that part but just wanted to ask what it is.

 

[Sprite]

Not been in this thread for some time. But Sony sent me and email today with thier guide to setting up a TV. I thought some GTP-ers may like it.

https://community.sony.co.uk/t5/how...ccid=22391D189FB602470788F4456F11789923EB7B88

 

[unit-one]

Okay, fiddled with the settings for quite a while. I think I finally found the best suited options for my room. And looks like they are just small changes.

Sony Bravia KDL40W705CBAEP

Settings look good for both PS3 and PS4.
The TV is also connected to a Sony DAV-DZ660 5.1 Home Cinema via Optical and HDMI cables.

PS3 and PS4 are connected to the TV through HDMI cables.

All devices use Bravia sync. (Device Control Keys- NONE. Be sure to check that or else the TV remote will control your consoles.)

PS3 and PS4 sound is transmitted through HDMI to TV, then TV transmits 5.1 Dolby Digital to Home Cinema. (I've checked with Wipeout Fury's "Speaker test for 5.1 Surround Sound system".)

I also connected the TV to Internet using a Wi-Fi router and downloaded a system update. (heh, it's that time when a TV asks for an update. Future!)

Here are the settings:

ECO:
Power Saving- OFF
Light Sensor- OFF

VIDEO INPUT SETTINGS:
Dynamic Range- LIMITED (I just couldn't decide so far if FULL or LIMITED is better)
SBM- OFF

SCREEN:
Screen Format- FULL
Auto Format- OFF
Auto Display Area- OFF
Display Area- FULL PIXEL

SCENE SELECT:
Game

PICTURE:
Picture Mode- Game-Original
Backlight- 4
Contrast- Max
Brightness- 50
Colour- 48
Hue- 0
Colour Temperature- Warm 2 (Others are too cold)
Sharpness- 60 (50 is sharpness off. Less than 50 starts to blur the image)
Reality Creation- OFF
Smooth Gradation- OFF
Black Corrector- OFF
Adv. Contrast Enhancer- OFF
Gamma- -1
Auto Light Limiter- OFF
Clear White- OFF
Live Color- OFF
White Balance- everything at 0
Detail Enhancer- OFF
Edge Enhancer- OFF

Decided to keep the advanced picture processing off as sometimes it doesn't look good. And to reduce lag.

 

[LeMansAid]

Plasma owners should consider having the voltage settings checked out on their sets. I recently bought a Pioneer KRP-500M for a steal, as voltage was way off and was crippling the image's should-be exemplary black level. With the Pioneer displays the black level rises and they develop a red tint.

Here's someone else's before and after......

The results on each of my Pioneer sets was amazing. I'm now looking into whether or not I'd get much more out of my Panasonics. On Panasonic, anyone with a Panasonic plasma 2008-2010 should look into whether or not a PMCV2 can be used to reset black levels on their sets.

Naturally, it's not worth trying to squeeze image quality out of a display when not working from the best possible start point - so I thought I'd bring it up here as something that people may not tend to consider.

Soon I'll be having at least 7 of my many displays pro calibrated, and will report back hopefully bowled over with the results.

 

[Shaun]

Soon I'll be having at least 7 of my many displays pro calibrated, and will report back hopefully bowled over with the results.

I'll be interested to hear how it goes and if you don't mind who is doing it?

I do mine myself using an X-Rite display pro and the relevant test patterns for gray scale, brightness etc. While not professional level gear the difference is remarkable.

I find setting the High/Low and 20 point IRE levels to be a piece of you know what, it becomes a bit trickier trying to get the gamma spot on for each point but with time and patience it can be done and well worth it. I'd imagaine a professional doing it would be way quicker than I can imagine though. 👍

 

[LeMansAid]

I'll be interested to hear how it goes and if you don't mind who is doing it?

AVICAL gets around a bit from their base in Maaahlbourne, and there's a possibility to use them, but I think I'm going to go with a local in Adelaide going under the name Clarity AV.

Another thing on voltages - I didn't realise how much panels can vary within exact models. I had two PDP-LX509A displays with comparable hours on them adjusted to the best possible level, and one goes significantly deeper, black level wise, than the other. The better of those two, and the KRP, both pretty close to zero black mind you - with "significant" being rather subjective (and this is side by side comparison, in a pitch black room, with the utterly obsessed observing them we're talking about).

 

[Shaun]

AVICAL gets around a bit from their base in Maaahlbourne, and there's a possibility to use them, but I think I'm going to go with a local in Adelaide going under the name Clarity AV.

Yep I've heard of Avical and due to my location that's who I would use if I ever decide to go down the professional path. They get superb reviews, not cheap but supposedly worth it.
Can't say I've heard of Clarity but in your situation I would probably do similar if after a bit of sniffing around they also get good reviews.

Another thing on voltages - I didn't realise how much panels can vary within exact models.

Absolutely, an easy way to prove this is find different settings on the web for whatever particular model.
Some look good and some look horrible, I did this with my new set (a LG OLED fwiw was very good out of the box) and some settings improved on the pre sets and some made it worse by a long way.

(and this is side by side comparison, in a pitch black room, with the utterly obsessed observing them we're talking about).

Fully understand and know what you are talking about.

I've two settings saved for each input, blu ray, internal apps (for example youtube), foxtel etc. Luckily the set has two expert settings which also remembers the adjustments for each input.
Day time setting at a gamma of 2.2 and night time at a gamma of 2.4.

It was a fairly in depth learning curve and frustratingly time consuming at times but I'm a fiddler anyway so found it rewarding. One thing it shows up though are how crap even our HD channels on FTA tv.
It is rewarding though when someone sees it for the first time from a good source and just says wow.

 

[Robin]

My LG TV is calibrated using ISF Expert values and the picture is great however...

When using the same ISF values applied to HDMI inputs it produces a totally different image when compared to the internal tuner. The colours are different, the tint is different, even the brightness appears different!

I don't understand why this is happening, why would the inputs seemingly need a separate picture calibration? Is this normal?

Could someone help, Thanks.

 

[novcze]

My LG TV is calibrated using ISF Expert values and the picture is great however...

When using the same ISF values applied to HDMI inputs it produces a totally different image when compared to the internal tuner. The colours are different, the tint is different, even the brightness appears different!

I don't understand why this is happening, why would the inputs seemingly need a separate picture calibration? Is this normal?

Could someone help, Thanks.

you have calibrated internal tuner? ... if you want to use the same values on HDMI inputs, first thing to check is the right RGB range, full or limited to match the source. Your remark about different brightness might indicate mismatch.

I do my home calibrations with Spyder3 colorimeter and free HCFR software. I'm not super obsessed with the accuracy so something that gets me reasonably close to D65 is enough.

 

[Shaun]

I do my home calibrations with Spyder3 colorimeter and free HCFR software. I'm not super obsessed with the accuracy so something that gets me reasonably close to D65 is enough.

Pretty much the same setup I use except I have a i-Rite color meter, if you take your time some pretty good results can be had. 👍

My LG TV is calibrated using ISF Expert values and the picture is great however...

When using the same ISF values applied to HDMI inputs it produces a totally different image when compared to the internal tuner. The colours are different, the tint is different, even the brightness appears different!

I don't understand why this is happening, why would the inputs seemingly need a separate picture calibration? Is this normal?

Could someone help, Thanks.

Sounds like the same as my LG Oled and yes each different type of input needs to be calibrated.

 

[Robin]

Thanks for the replies 👍

@novcze I checked and they are the same values because the TV has the ability to copy over all the custom ISF settings to another input. Problem is the outcome isn't the same!

It might be a thing with LG TV's as @Shaun touched on. I guess I will have to calibrate the inputs separately.

 

[Sprite]

So I’ve now logged 200+ hours on the new OLED and decided to use some calibrated settings from D-Nice over at the AVS forums.

Using the Custom Pro 1 & 2 and for Dolby Vision the DV Dark mode. How much of a difference these have made is yet to be seen. My initial impressions are the shadow detail has been brought to life a little more with more subtle definition in the details.

TBH the image is belter anyway and all the 4K discs we’ve watched so far really do vary quite dramatically in detail and colour.

 

[wfooshee]

Haven't looked in here for a while, but regarding the different inputs showing different results with "identical" calibration, that's been my experience on every TV I've had. I don't think you can count on a Blu-Ray player putting out the exact same color set as a game console as a 4K player as a satellite tuner as a cable box. My thinking is that it's not the TV inputs that behave differently, it's the sources.

I can't be bothered to move sources around to check that, though...

 

[Sprite]

Haven't looked in here for a while, but regarding the different inputs showing different results with "identical" calibration, that's been my experience on every TV I've had. I don't think you can count on a Blu-Ray player putting out the exact same color set as a game console as a 4K player as a satellite tuner as a cable box. My thinking is that it's not the TV inputs that behave differently, it's the sources.

I can't be bothered to move sources around to check that, though...

I’m so surprised by how different the films look.

On my old set and at 1080p films looked great and from film to film the differences in how they were shot, the soft shots and colour grading etc were of never a concern.

Now I’ve moved to a much larger screen and 4K discs etc. The difference is night and day.

Even comparing my old Blu-rays from set to set really makes some look bad. I’m using the same source; an Oppo 203, but for example Aliens on Blu-ray looked excellent on my old TV. Tack sharp and just lovely. On the new set it’s pretty shocking at how bad the mastering of the film is and I was quite disappointed.

Now I know 1080p upscale and stretched across such a vast screen will have an impact, however I’ve seen 1080p films looks stunning, this includes older films.

 

[Sprite]

Ok, I thought I’d pop this question into this thread as I don’t think it warrants a new one.

I’ve been using a Logitech One Universal Remote for quite some years now. As some may know, they’ve dropped support for them now and mine is starting to get killed on its battery. It isn’t staying charged for very long before needing to go back on the cradle. Couple this with a wife who never puts it on charge

Do any of you use other remotes from other brands and what are your thoughts?

I’ve been looking at the Sofabaton U1 as this seems like a good replacement for mine.

 

[TB]

@Sprite

Would it be worth your while to get a replacement battery for it or do you want a new remote anyway?

I don't remember replacing the battery in my Harmony Hub remote but since it's closing in on 10 years old, I must have at some point and don't remember. Regardless, it's just a CR2032 battery that are available anywhere. If charging is an issue, something like that might not be a bad idea.

If you have a Roku or Sonos it doesn't look like the Sofabaton supports them. Other than that I would think it would do the job.

 

[Jordan]

I had my family set up for several generations of Logitech Harmony remotes and they were great, but yes, sadly, it looks like their time is coming to an end. When the arrow buttons on their Harmony One started to act up, I knew it was time to start looking into alternatives and decided to change up the whole system.

I cancelled the satellite TV service and switched them over to YouTube TV, which literally cut the bill in than half. And, since there is no gaming consoles in the home theater, that just left the Apple TV 4K and there's no need for input management the Harmony provided. My parents have been happy with the new Apple TV remote, and it's way more responsive than the Harmony ever was.

I'm not sure if it's an option for you due to the various devices you have connected, but with cord-cutting TV and HDMI-CEC, it's more clear to me now why Logitech decided to pull the plug on the Harmony ecosystem.

 

[Shaun]

some may know, they’ve dropped support for them now

Didn't know this, I'll have to check if it effects the Elite as well.

Don't have any experience sorry mate with any other universal remotes so can't advise on that at all

I'm not sure if it's an option for you due to the various devices you have connected,

This is my issue, ours switches a whole number of devices that makes life so much easier for my technophobe wife.

 

[TB]

ours switches a whole number of devices

Same with mine which is why I went with the Harmony Hub. All of my gear is in the mechanical room so I needed the RF capabilities. With one press the receiver turns on to the correct input and the XBox, projector and lights all turn on. Same with turning thing off, including the 30 second delay in shutting the lights off so i can make it through the basement without it being completely dark.

And I still have my Harmony 880, too.

 

[Shaun]

Same with mine which is why I went with the Harmony Hub. All of my gear is in the mechanical room so I needed the RF capabilities. With one press the receiver turns on to the correct input and the XBox, projector and lights all turn on. Same with turning thing off, including the 30 second delay in shutting the lights off so i can make it through the basement without it being completely dark.

And I still have my Harmony 880, too.

Similar here, receiver, tv, Blu Ray player lights etc.

Which reminds me I have to see if I can get it also to close my blinds when it press watch a movie.

 

[Sprite]

@TB , @Shaun & @Jordan thanks for the replies.

I’m in a similar boat to TB & Shaun. The Harmony controls multiple devices (TV, Soundbar) etc.

I do have an Apple TV too.

I also use quite a few functions on the TV like switching profiles for gaming and watching so input lag is reduced, and if we pause a film etc. we turn off the OLED if we’re going into the kitchen for more than a minute to limit burn in potential (also screen savers kick in but not soon enough).

I hadn't thought of a new battery for some reason, just didn’t enter my head!

I’ll look into that as the remote in of itself is still working fine.

 

[Shaun]

I hadn't thought of a new battery for some reason, just didn’t enter my head!

I’ll look into that as the remote in of itself is still working fine.

Probably not designed to be replaced but no doubt it can be done. Just a matter of sourcing a suitable battery.

First port of call would be YouTube.

 

[Sprite]

Probably not designed to be replaced but no doubt it can be done. Just a matter of sourcing a suitable battery.

First port of call would be YouTube.

iFixit may have something too.

 

[Danoff]

I love that this thread has a 56k warning.

 

[Lion-Face]

I love that this thread has a 56k warning.

Yeah when I see this thread pop up from time to time I do wonder if I should change it! It does bring back memories of having to warn those dial-up users so I have never changed it, kinda historical haha. It makes me wonder how many people still connect with dial-up and if they appreciate the warning

 

[Jordan]

Yeah when I see this thread pop up from time to time I do wonder if I should change it! It does bring back memories of having to warn those dial-up users so I have never changed it, kinda historical haha. It makes me wonder how many people still connect with dial-up and if they appreciate the warning

I think it's a very low number, but of course, it's all relative...

Today's bandwidth-limited users are now more likely to be on slow or overloaded wireless networks. "56k warnings" are quaint, but in some ways, still useful!