Update 1.15 has ROOTED the wheel Force Feedback
- Thread starter ShiftingGears
- 240 comments
- 35,141 views
- 321
- Australia
- Cyber77__
I have to agree, at first I thought it was broken! I thought 7 felt good but the initial FFB was still a little light so have settled on 8.
My observation is that the spring weight is a little too weak but the FFB detail is much better compared to the previous update.
It would be great to hear from any other G-GT 2 owners to see if there is a difference between the G-GT and the G-GT 2.
- 6,657
- Hanover/Germany
- alexpkas
Same here for the DD Pro Fanatec!
- 14
- United Kingdom
I have a t-gt 2 and it’s terrible. Maybe what your feeling with the extra detail is that there’s now almost zero resistance so all you have is the vibrations. I just played some Acc instead, maybe polyphony should play it themselves and pick up some tips
- 803
- Waco, TX
- GTP_Goshin2568
- Goshin2568
Alright, I have a feeling this is going to be somewhat of an unpopular opinion, but just out of curiosity, for all the GT DD Pro and T-GT users who feel like this update has ruined their FFB, what max torque were you using before the update?
Because while there is certainly some actual negative impact from this FFB update, I have a suspicion that this is being massively magnified by the fact that a lot of you were previously running max torque settings that were way too high, and you'd just gotten used to the feeling of heavily weighted FFB with zero dynamic range that's clipping to all hell.
Pre-update, anything above 4 or 5 max torque (depending on your wheel) was clipping. This means that the high forces were being compressed in order to bring up the low forces. This increases the ffb strength on average, but at the cost of losing a ton of detail because there's no dynamic range anymore, you can no longer feel the difference between the high forces and the low forces. (For anyone who knows audio, this works exactly like a limiter)
So I suspect PD's goal here was to make 10 max torque equal to "the strongest ffb your wheel can handle without clipping" so that people would stop running like 8 max torque and losing all the detail in their wheel.
So, for people who previously ran like 3 or 4 max torque before, you should be able to turn it to 10 now and get a very similar feel to what you had previously. But for people who were running at 5/6+ max torque before, you're now feeling like the FFB is extremely weak (albeit much more detailed) because you've gotten accustomed to running a much stronger FFB than your wheel is actually capable of handling without clipping.
There's a reason high end DD wheels can do 15-20+ NM of torque, and it's for this exact thing, it allows you to run a higher average FFB strength without clipping all the peaks away.
So my question is this, is there anyone who was running a T-GT or DD pro who, pre-update, used 3 or 4 max torque? For those people, how does 10 max torque now compare to what 3/4 felt like pre-update?
I have a suspicion that it's still a little bit low overall, PD probably have too much of a buffer at the high end which is making 10 max torque now feel like 2-3 rather than 3-4 (pre-update), but I really do believe that if they bump that up just a little bit that this will be a massive improvement overall, and those of you who feel it's way too weak now have to come to terms with the fact that you have a 5-8nm wheel not a 15+ nm DD wheel and you were running your wheel way too strong before
Because while there is certainly some actual negative impact from this FFB update, I have a suspicion that this is being massively magnified by the fact that a lot of you were previously running max torque settings that were way too high, and you'd just gotten used to the feeling of heavily weighted FFB with zero dynamic range that's clipping to all hell.
Pre-update, anything above 4 or 5 max torque (depending on your wheel) was clipping. This means that the high forces were being compressed in order to bring up the low forces. This increases the ffb strength on average, but at the cost of losing a ton of detail because there's no dynamic range anymore, you can no longer feel the difference between the high forces and the low forces. (For anyone who knows audio, this works exactly like a limiter)
So I suspect PD's goal here was to make 10 max torque equal to "the strongest ffb your wheel can handle without clipping" so that people would stop running like 8 max torque and losing all the detail in their wheel.
So, for people who previously ran like 3 or 4 max torque before, you should be able to turn it to 10 now and get a very similar feel to what you had previously. But for people who were running at 5/6+ max torque before, you're now feeling like the FFB is extremely weak (albeit much more detailed) because you've gotten accustomed to running a much stronger FFB than your wheel is actually capable of handling without clipping.
There's a reason high end DD wheels can do 15-20+ NM of torque, and it's for this exact thing, it allows you to run a higher average FFB strength without clipping all the peaks away.
So my question is this, is there anyone who was running a T-GT or DD pro who, pre-update, used 3 or 4 max torque? For those people, how does 10 max torque now compare to what 3/4 felt like pre-update?
I have a suspicion that it's still a little bit low overall, PD probably have too much of a buffer at the high end which is making 10 max torque now feel like 2-3 rather than 3-4 (pre-update), but I really do believe that if they bump that up just a little bit that this will be a massive improvement overall, and those of you who feel it's way too weak now have to come to terms with the fact that you have a 5-8nm wheel not a 15+ nm DD wheel and you were running your wheel way too strong before
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- 4,548
- Australia
Alright, I have a feeling this is going to be somewhat of an unpopular opinion, but just out of curiosity, for all the GT DD Pro and T-GT users who feel like this update has ruined their FFB, what max torque were you using before the update?
Because while there is certainly some actual negative impact from this FFB update, I have a suspicion that this is being massively magnified by the fact that a lot of you were previously running max torque settings that were way too high, and you'd just gotten used to the feeling of heavily weighted FFB with zero dynamic range that's clipping to all hell.
Pre-update, anything above 4 or 5 max torque (depending on your wheel) was clipping. This means that the high forces were being compressed in order to bring up the low forces. This increases the ffb strength on average, but at the cost of losing a ton of detail because there's no dynamic range anymore, you can no longer feel the difference between the high forces and the low forces. (For anyone who knows audio, this works exactly like a limiter)
So I suspect PD's goal here was to make 10 max torque equal to "the strongest ffb your wheel can handle without clipping" so that people would stop running like 8 max torque and losing all the detail in their wheel.
So, for people who previously ran like 3 or 4 max torque before, you should be able to turn it to 10 now and get a very similar feel to what you had previously. But for people who were running at 5/6+ max torque before, you're now feeling like the FFB is extremely weak (albeit much more detailed) because you've gotten accustomed to running a much stronger FFB than your wheel is actually capable of handling without clipping.
There's a reason high end DD wheels can do 15-20+ NM of torque, and it's for this exact thing, it allows you to run a higher average FFB strength without clipping all the peaks away.
So my question is this, is there anyone who was running a T-GT or DD pro who, pre-update, used 3 or 4 max torque? For those people, how does 10 max torque now compare to what 3/4 felt like pre-update?
I have a suspicion that it's still a little bit low overall, PD probably have too much of a buffer at the high end which is making 10 max torque now feel like 2-3 rather than 3-4 (pre-update), but I really do believe that if they bump that up just a little bit that this will be a massive improvement overall, and those of you who feel it's way too weak now have to come to terms with the fact that you have a 5-8nm wheel not a 15+ nm DD wheel and you were running your wheel way too strong before
Its fair to theorise but not at all accurate in my experience
I was running the default 5/5 on TGT, which itself was not more physically demanding than running 3 torque 6 sensitivity on GT Sport. I'm not someone who likes having to manhandle the wheel at all.
Now it the T-GT with maxed settings feels like a G29 on 1/1
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- 14
- United Kingdom
I used 4 torque until a couple of weeks ago, then have turned it up to 5 as I’ve been playing so much my grip strength/shoulders must have gotten stronger. I had the day off work today so was waiting for the servers to come back online and immediately it felt wrong, Theres almost zero resistance to turn in. It almost felt like the wheel wasn’t plugged in but there was still vibrationsAlright, I have a feeling this is going to be somewhat of an unpopular opinion, but just out of curiosity, for all the GT DD Pro and T-GT users who feel like this update has ruined their FFB, what max torque were you using before the update?
Because while there is certainly some actual negative impact from this FFB update, I have a suspicion that this is being massively magnified by the fact that a lot of you were previously running max torque settings that were way too high, and you'd just gotten used to the feeling of heavily weighted FFB with zero dynamic range that's clipping to all hell.
Pre-update, anything above 4 or 5 max torque (depending on your wheel) was clipping. This means that the high forces were being compressed in order to bring up the low forces. This increases the ffb strength on average, but at the cost of losing a ton of detail because there's no dynamic range anymore, you can no longer feel the difference between the high forces and the low forces. (For anyone who knows audio, this works exactly like a limiter)
So I suspect PD's goal here was to make 10 max torque equal to "the strongest ffb your wheel can handle without clipping" so that people would stop running like 8 max torque and losing all the detail in their wheel.
So, for people who previously ran like 3 or 4 max torque before, you should be able to turn it to 10 now and get a very similar feel to what you had previously. But for people who were running at 5/6+ max torque before, you're now feeling like the FFB is extremely weak (albeit much more detailed) because you've gotten accustomed to running a much stronger FFB than your wheel is actually capable of handling without clipping.
There's a reason high end DD wheels can do 15-20+ NM of torque, and it's for this exact thing, it allows you to run a higher average FFB strength without clipping all the peaks away.
So my question is this, is there anyone who was running a T-GT or DD pro who, pre-update, used 3 or 4 max torque? For those people, how does 10 max torque now compare to what 3/4 felt like pre-update?
I have a suspicion that it's still a little bit low overall, PD probably have too much of a buffer at the high end which is making 10 max torque now feel like 2-3 rather than 3-4 (pre-update), but I really do believe that if they bump that up just a little bit that this will be a massive improvement overall, and those of you who feel it's way too weak now have to come to terms with the fact that you have a 5-8nm wheel not a 15+ nm DD wheel and you were running your wheel way too strong before
This isn’t just people complaining about nothing
- 867
- JeffKill77
- JeffKill
Why is the DD Pro clipping so easily on GT7 though? Hook it up to a pc and play any sim of your choice and you can run much stronger ffb without any clipping at all. And that’s with much more detail in the ffb also. Hell, even playing AC or ACC on PS5 you can tell the DD Pro can handle much more than GT7 is throwing at it.Alright, I have a feeling this is going to be somewhat of an unpopular opinion, but just out of curiosity, for all the GT DD Pro and T-GT users who feel like this update has ruined their FFB, what max torque were you using before the update?
Because while there is certainly some actual negative impact from this FFB update, I have a suspicion that this is being massively magnified by the fact that a lot of you were previously running max torque settings that were way too high, and you'd just gotten used to the feeling of heavily weighted FFB with zero dynamic range that's clipping to all hell.
Pre-update, anything above 4 or 5 max torque (depending on your wheel) was clipping. This means that the high forces were being compressed in order to bring up the low forces. This increases the ffb strength on average, but at the cost of losing a ton of detail because there's no dynamic range anymore, you can no longer feel the difference between the high forces and the low forces. (For anyone who knows audio, this works exactly like a limiter)
So I suspect PD's goal here was to make 10 max torque equal to "the strongest ffb your wheel can handle without clipping" so that people would stop running like 8 max torque and losing all the detail in their wheel.
So, for people who previously ran like 3 or 4 max torque before, you should be able to turn it to 10 now and get a very similar feel to what you had previously. But for people who were running at 5/6+ max torque before, you're now feeling like the FFB is extremely weak (albeit much more detailed) because you've gotten accustomed to running a much stronger FFB than your wheel is actually capable of handling without clipping.
There's a reason high end DD wheels can do 15-20+ NM of torque, and it's for this exact thing, it allows you to run a higher average FFB strength without clipping all the peaks away.
So my question is this, is there anyone who was running a T-GT or DD pro who, pre-update, used 3 or 4 max torque? For those people, how does 10 max torque now compare to what 3/4 felt like pre-update?
I have a suspicion that it's still a little bit low overall, PD probably have too much of a buffer at the high end which is making 10 max torque now feel like 2-3 rather than 3-4 (pre-update), but I really do believe that if they bump that up just a little bit that this will be a massive improvement overall, and those of you who feel it's way too weak now have to come to terms with the fact that you have a 5-8nm wheel not a 15+ nm DD wheel and you were running your wheel way too strong before
- 803
- Waco, TX
- GTP_Goshin2568
- Goshin2568
Okay, just curious, did you actually play at those settings before or is that just what you're guessing? Did you play (pre-update) any significant amount of time with Max torque at 1? Or 3? Or have you just been at 5 the entire time and are estimating what you think 1 or 3 felt like?
When you played today after the update, did you try with max torque at 10? If so, are you saying that max torque 10 now feels significantly weaker than what 4 felt like pre-update? This is honestly what I'm trying to figure out, this isn't rhetorical or a trick question or anything.
- 14
- United Kingdom
I didn’t say in my original comment but yes I’ve jacked the Strength up. On booting the game up i immediately went into the gr1 race at Daytona with the Mazda 787. It felt strange, thought it was maybe the car as id never actually driven it before. Then I tried another car which I had driven before then I messed about with the settings all the way till they were both on 10. Them came on here and saw others where having problems too
- 4,548
- Australia
I played GT7 at 5/5 on the TGT, nothing less. It felt good right out of the box.
And I played GT Sport at torque 2-3 Sen 6-10. There was less load through the wheel in GT7 on 5/5 pre update than there was on GT Sport with a lower torque value.
The reason I mentioned it is to illustrate my level of FFB preference (i.e. not heavy at all). actually prefer FFB to be generally light, but right now its ridiculous.
For what its worth the reference I can give is that 10/10 now feels significantly less than 5/5 was.
My educated guess is that I'm certain it would feel less than 4 now because it feels like driving a G29 on torque 1 in GT Sport did at the moment. Floaty and disconnected.
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- 828
- United Kingdom
There's no way they tested it. They can't have tested these and thought "yep, that's good, that's how we want the game to feel". I mean, was anyone even saying the FFB was too strong or did they have the sense that if they felt it was, they'd just turn it down?
I was running at 5/5 on the T-GT since GT7 launched, it's lighter than I was running in GTS (8/8) but it was alright enough for me not to think "oh I have to ramp that back up". Since the update today, 10/10 is NOWHERE NEAR as strong as 5/5 was yesterday, there's no feel to it at all, and absolutely no resistance. It feels like when I'd set up the wheel for my 8 year old niece on GTS and turn the torque down to 1 so she couldn't hurt herself
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,312
- Australia
- GT-MIC
T-GT user here using GT Mode, latest firmware with Transducer on 100. I'm actually finding it not too bad but as I like the wheel light (2 and 8 pre update) it's not much of an issue to run it a bit higher (5 and 2 now) to get a similar weight but better feel. There seems to be more range for the sensitivity setting now. I can actually feel a difference between 1 and 10... finally.
I can definitely see how it would be an issue for people that like a heavier feel though.
I can definitely see how it would be an issue for people that like a heavier feel though.
- 179
- Wollongong
- THNDR_Artsy
Mine is cooked too. I'm using Podium F1 on PS5, max torque at 10, and the thing feels like max torque 1 pre update. My wheel feels like a g29! I'm holding off changing my wheel settings for now.....surely they fix this....
- 14
- United Kingdom
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,312
- Australia
- GT-MIC
I'm not sure what you mean. Unplugged from everything it's smooth as. I have to turn the wheel very slowly to even feel a tooth on the belt. In game there's a slight grainy feel coming from the transducer but nothing too bad. I'm certainly getting more road/kerb feel from the FFB though but not in traditional sense. It's not the harsh vibration of a sawtooth kerb you get in some games, it's a more subtle feel but it kicks the wheel going onto and off of them now. Slides are easier to catch so far but I haven't used much in the way of known tail happy cars yet.
I'd previously had a similar experience to @cjr3559 with out of the box settings (dull, stiff and heavy).
Edit: I also should clarify that the kick from the kerbs is still not anywhere near as harsh as when this game was first released but I think that was more physics related than FFB.
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- 14
- India
Using a TS-XW with Drivehub (the game recognizes this as a T-GT), and my FFB is like 30% of what it used to be. I was running 7-6 earlier. Now having to do 10-10 to feel anything. It is not undriveable, there's enough detail in there on hard cornering and just about enough to be able to catch a snap of oversteer. Maybe some finer details on cornering are more apparent because of how dead the wheel feels while in a straight line, but I'd take slightly less detail in exchange for firming up the current floatiness. Surely there has to be some kind of hotfix for this.
Also I really wish they had an FFB meter option on the HUD like ACC for us to actually see when the wheel is clipping
Also I really wish they had an FFB meter option on the HUD like ACC for us to actually see when the wheel is clipping
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- 2,484
- oshkosh/WI
- MrWilso92
I might be the only person on a CSL ELITE to chime in and it feels almost unchanged to me.
It is definitely a little less powerful or less resistant when turning into a corner.
And like a few others mentioned i think i actually can feel a tiny bit more detail than before.
I haven't changed my settings at all yet , i run the wheel at 100% FFB and 6 and 10 in game.
It is definitely a little less powerful or less resistant when turning into a corner.
And like a few others mentioned i think i actually can feel a tiny bit more detail than before.
I haven't changed my settings at all yet , i run the wheel at 100% FFB and 6 and 10 in game.
- 1,565
- United Kingdom
T300 and Csl elite users don’t appear affected. For TGT users the game is near unplayable now; as the young esports chap here found out
The FFB is broken, it can be mitigated by jacking everything up to get some feedback but that’s a workaround and is so obviously not how it should be that it shouldnt need explaining.
Imagine a new user brings their TGT or DD pro connected for the first time. What are they going to think?
The FFB is broken, it can be mitigated by jacking everything up to get some feedback but that’s a workaround and is so obviously not how it should be that it shouldnt need explaining.
Imagine a new user brings their TGT or DD pro connected for the first time. What are they going to think?
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- 1,375
- Deadlights with Pennywise and the Balloons
- naughty_teddy1
Click the power button on the wheel twice so it's purple (ps compatibility mode). Feedback is fine the mate.
You lose control of the other toggle switches though, so have to navigate to tcs, fuel saving using the control stick on the wheel, but at least the game is playable again.
Utterly useless now in the default ps5 mode. Stunning oversight/'update' though. On the games primary wheel as well. Just testing for 10 seconds would highlight the issue, so it really beggars belief... Not even a personal preference thing either, it's a completely broken!
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- 1,375
- Deadlights with Pennywise and the Balloons
- naughty_teddy1
Mind boggling 'improvement ' isn't it. Surely they play/test before release. A few seconds on track would highlight its screwed. Have to use compatibility mode for now.vamnenfing in game torque to any setting doesn't mitigate in default wheel mode.
- 1,565
- United Kingdom
Purple mode isn’t fine. You get the weight to the wheel back but loads of details are missing. It feels like the FFB from when the game was day one release.
- 7,830
- U S A
- Tetsumura
- Nigel Fox
I appreciate the heads up but that's the problem. The functions are just too convenient, and as NikNak says, the FFB is kind of generic anyway. With the Torque jacked up, it's remotely useful now and I've racing okay with it, so I'll leave it as is till PD gets a patch ready to go.
I've been running fairly weak FFB, cut back to about 7 or 8 in the DD Pro itself, which I believe Fanatec recommends 10. Then it was trimmed in GT7 to 3, or 2 with the Tomahawk because wobble was kind of annoying otherwise. Even then it was rather mild FFB. Sensitivity was on 1 till I read a bunch of chatter about what it was doing, so I set it to 5 to split the difference. Sensitivity is "road feel." With Torque juiced up in the DD Pro and GT7 both it's still pretty limp.
- 803
- Waco, TX
- GTP_Goshin2568
- Goshin2568
So, again, just to be clear, you're saying that pre-update you ran 70-80 FF on your DD Pro and 3 max torque in game. Now, post-update you're using 100 FF on your wheel and 10 max torque in-game, and it still feels weaker than it did pre-update? Is that correct?
Also, have you tried bumping the FOR setting on your DD Pro to 110 or 120? How does that compare?
- 321
- Australia
- Cyber77__
No there is definitely resistance, I changed it to 10 initially after the 1.15 update and found that the FFB was too strong on snap over steer and nearly pulled the wheel out of my hands.
The wheel weight is definitely light but the FFB itself is fine, very progressive with heaps more detail than the previous update.
I think people are confusing FFB with wheel weight/centre spring.
