Uuuuh.... Ok. That why all the racecars I see everyother weekend... Have REALLY big brakes in the back... Umm no... But ok. Do it up. I'll drive anything. Just remember that EIGHTY PERCENT of you stopping force will be in the front... BECAUSE YOU ARE driving FORWARD.... there is a 60 page GT tuning guide on line for free . Use it.
Okay, #1, bias has nothing to do with the size of the brakes, it has to do with the amount of hydraulic pressure applied to them.
#2, trail braking i used on a bunch of race cars. In circle or dirt tracks, you purposely set it up, so that you can overpower the RR brakes, while trail braking with the LR tire to help the car turn.
#3, it's physics. Tires have grip, which can be used for 3 things, either simultaneously, or independently. Braking, Accelerating or turning.
100% tire grip, 3 possible variables at each tire.
If you are braking and turning, a percentage of your grip is dedicated to braking, which lowers the turning ability of that specific tire.
#4, heat. GT5 tire indicators, show stress and heat. By applying more front brake bias, you induce more heat to the front tires, which reduced your level of grip through the corner on the front tires, causing more understeer.
None of the above even matters, because I can prove it with lap times. I can consistently run 4-5 tenths quicker per lap when using trail braking in these FF 500PP cars at GVS.
So you can read as many tuning guides as you want, but lap times are the true measure of a car/tune. You can tune your car 'by the book' all day every day and I'll continue to tune mine by what provides the fastest lap times. If you want to be slow and justified in your 'realism' then by all means, that's your prerogative. You'll have to forgive me for not taking advice from someone who has yet to prove their tuning ability or driving skill. So until you do, you'll understand why I'm reluctant to care what you think.
