- 19
- Manchester
- Thelegend20le
One thing I think is evident here is that it's definitely different strokes for different folks.
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Do you mean the short tail one in the LCD right now? Yes, I got that one and I loved it the first time out. I’ve tuned it a little bit, but it really didn’t need much. I’m using it in some Gr.3 events and am having a blast!Just off topic but do you by any chance have the Mclaren F1 GTR and the Standard Road legal one by any chance Bullwinkle (or anyone else reading)?
I have 20 million credits put aside for the road version but the GTR has shown up and I'm so tempted to buy it but I really want the other more expensive one and I don't wanna drop 10 million and that one becomes available...I'll get to the point, if you have both and could only keep one which would it be?
Maybe best off starting a new thread with this, although I guess not many people have both so probably pointless?
Any stock ferrari
Ferrari FXX K, horrible to drive. You’d think a track day car like that would have some grip.
The F12, once again totally stock on SH, is insanely fun to drive, you just have to be very careful with the throttle. The only thing I would say is lacking on it is brakes, you need to give a LOT of room for braking, partly because it's so insanely fast. Once you get it in your head that you can only go full throttle when you're absolutely planted, the thing is a super poseable murder machine that can take down much bigger foes. The thing is with these sensitive Ferraris, is that this leads to them doing anything you want when you get the hang of how to drive them. You can choose under or oversteer whenever you want, or keep them grippy by learning to stay below their limits.The BMW Gr.3 car is awful, so is F12 Berlinetta...no matter what I tweak those things are undriveable...
Exactly the same over hereI couldnt even tell you... all I do in this game is use the tomahawk in tokyo to get credits and buy cars...I dont even use them I just collect really so I can get every car in the game... But the lame part of the game is not being able to use any car in any race... most of my cars I have to use in arcade mode just to use them
Initial torque 5Mine: the McLaren P1 GTR '16. At $3.6 million it's not even close. And it's not even close to drivable either. I got that $1m bonus a couple weeks ago, and when I finished the café I got another $1m so I thought, what the heck? I saw the 986 HP/607.5 torque for under 800 PP stock and thought it was going to be my sleeper car for all the 800 events. Boy was I wrong. I feel like such a sucker.
I spent an entire day Saturday tuning it for the track at Catalunya but I can't keep it in the race. (Side note, what's the deal with tuning the car perfectly in Time Trials only to have it behave totally differently on race day? Seriously, any insight here?)
The car had an even worse time at Maggiore, slipping around like I was on ice. And I literally went all-four-tires-off-the-ground airborne on that huge drop to that banked hairpin. I nearly landed on the poor guy in front of me!
I'm so frustrated. The only car I have worse is the Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car which, for some reason I have two of. But they don't bother me as much because I got them both in the roulette somehow. The McLaren is just such an ugly mistake and now I'm stuck with it. What an expensive paperweight, although it probably would slip right off the paper too, so scratch that idea . . . .
So, what other lemons are out there to avoid? What was your biggest most expensive and disappointing mistake of a purchase?
Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stifferCorvette Stingray Racer Concept.
Even on racing tyres, it always wants to skid about.
I have a tune do you want it ? It can do 8 laps without a pit on the 800pp sargendeaBuggati VGT , I mean wtf is up with the DRS ??? Route X and the flipping flap thing keeps opening and closing , tried holding the overtake button and it does nothing , car is a goddamm turd .
I have tunes do you need?To be honest, I find all the ancient legendary cars' handling pretty bad… and they each cost 20 million credits, so…
Will try that for the Vette at Laguna. Any thoughts on the 20M Shelby Daytona? Its hard to drive on the shorter circuits .Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stiffer
I have tunes for all the classic carsProbably my Fiat 500. I had the gall to expect a higher level of performance than it gave me after fully modifying it.
Everything else I’ve spent credits on has been worth the money for what I wanted to use it for.
It wasn’t the controllability, it just simply wasn’t fast enough for what I was trying to compete with at the time (I think it was the BMW book? Can’t remember).I have tunes for all the classic cars
This car can handle both supercharger’s it just they use to much fuel during the raceAcceleration 5
Torque 5
Braking 60. This car can win the 700pp Le Mans have wet tyres
I have tunes for all the classic cars
Please send them to me. Thanks again!Acceleration 5
Torque 5
Braking 60. This car can win the 700pp Le Mans have wet tyres
I have tunes for all the classic cars
What does the Liquid Crystal Display have to do with driveability? 🙃LOL, suggesting people drop their LCD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LCD dropped to 5 does?
Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LCD.
Your end goal should be to have the LCD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LCD.
Probably the Cappuccino.
The Ferrari 330 is amazing v12! 192mphPlease send them to me. Thanks again!
Your tune for the 20M Shelby Daytona is a dream to drive at Lemans 700pp (TC-1 in the rain, 2 stops, thirsty girl) and I've lapped the field a few times in only for races. Will never do Tokyo again!!
Much rather put these old cars to work. Ferrari '67 330, '61 250 GT and Alpine A220 could be fun.
I’ve tuned every classic car to there max mph!Please send them to me. Thanks again!
Your tune for the 20M Shelby Daytona is a dream to drive at Lemans 700pp (TC-1 in the rain, 2 stops, thirsty girl) and I've lapped the field a few times in only for races. Will never do Tokyo again!!
Much rather put these old cars to work. Ferrari '67 330, '61 250 GT and Alpine A220 could be fun.
Nothing and you know that very well.What does the Liquid Crystal Display have to do with driveability? 🙃
LOL, suggesting people drop their LSD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LSD dropped to 5 does?
Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LSD.
Your end goal should be to have the LSD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LSD.
Initial torque 5
Acceleration sensitivity 5
Brakes 60
Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stiffer
I have a tune do you want it ? It can do 8 laps without a pit on the 800pp sargendea
Sure, some of us know what a low-sprung or low tension LSD acts like. An open diff. But this isn't real life, and it's clear there are many things in GT7 that don't even come close to replicating when it comes to the way real life chassis changes affect car handling.LOL, suggesting people drop their LSD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LSD dropped to 5 does?
Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LSD.
Your end goal should be to have the LSD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LSD.