Wheel Stands, Racing Rigs Cockpits, Pedals, Wheels. Master List

[Scaff]

Nice man ,I've been looking for something like this . Do you mind me asking how much that kit was ? Thanks.

Total kit including shipping was £200 and I needed to spend another £10 on a few bits to mount it in the manner I wanted on my rig (these were not essential, but did give me better end results for a small outlay).

Not sure how easy this kit would be to get in the US, as I got them from a UK company and the manufacturer is German.

http://www.shakercentre.co.uk/aspbite/products/products.asp?intProductsID=137&content=gamer_rs_kit

More details to follow in the review, for which I will create a new thread, it will be up within a day or two at most.

 

[Pete05]

@Scaff Are you on console or PC? How do those things work? Does it just shake on lower frequency sounds? I've seen people with 3 or 4 of those Butt Kickers things clamped underneath their seat on hardcore PC sim racing rigs. Does it just shake the entire time you drive? Does it start vibrating more on certain things and much less on other things?

I was paid to drive a full scale, F1 simulator 20 years ago in a major Melbourne Department Store & at the Albert Park GP.
That had something very similar under the seat that vibrated when simulating the car bottoming out on the skid plate or hitting the Vallelunga kerbs.
Very impressive.

 

[GTproRacer29]

Total kit including shipping was £200 and I needed to spend another £10 on a few bits to mount it in the manner I wanted on my rig (these were not essential, but did give me better end results for a small outlay).

Not sure how easy this kit would be to get in the US, as I got them from a UK company and the manufacturer is German.

http://www.shakercentre.co.uk/aspbite/products/products.asp?intProductsID=137&content=gamer_rs_kit

More details to follow in the review, for which I will create a new thread, it will be up within a day or two at most.

Thanks ,I appreciate the response. Yea I don't think it should be too hard to get it over here or get something similar. Thanks for the link also

 

[Orayani]

What a monstrosity these T3PA Pro's. Love the better control in detail of the pedals. Quite a big difference compared to my T3PA. Might go for the John Bodin load cell for these instead of the T3PA.

Had to do a bit of DIY then vinyl the board as the pedals were too big for the Playseat stand.

They feel quite a big upgrade compared to what I've been used to. G25 set from 2008 to the T3PA October 2016 to T3PA Pro January 2017.

Tried the spring version. Felt nice but killed the travel. Had to create a shoddy version to get non ABS cars to feel nice under high speed braking.

Feels nice and stiff but requires quite a bit of pressure but can still get the travel. Usually only half braking now. Lovely feeling in the Ford Escorts.

 

[SGETI]

@Orayani

Thanks for your input, I have been thinking about upgrading my G27 pedals. Let me understand you, you went from T3PA to T3PA Pro .

Did you notice a big difference between the two? Is the only difference the metal plate? Have you any dead spot for braking?

Anyone else with these pro peddles pleae I would Like to hear from you.
thanks.

 

[Orayani]

There is quite a deadzone in the T3PA's. Brake and even bigger in the accelerator. At least on mine. There was close to 0.9cm deadzone on the accelerator. 0.6 or .7 on the brake. As well as a bit of deadzone at the end of the pedals travel. Very soft accelerator spring. Felt very lifeless and because of this I suffered a lot of coasting as well as understeer even though I was pressing the pedals.

The T3PA Pro's, the pedals have heavier springs. The brake spring is wider and heavier than the T3PA. A lot stronger. Minimal deadzone on the brake and accelerator. Feels like 0.2 or 0.3cm. I put little pressure and you see it engage. Same for the accelerator. I feel more confident with the accelerator on this set. The car becomes quite predictable. I used to fear the McLaren 650S on the T3PA where I can be quite determined with it.

The braking and accelerating feels so much smoother on the Pro's versus the T3PA. I usually always had to go 100% braking with the T3PA. Now I can get away with half braking in some of the GT3 cars and it is especially lovely half braking in the Escorts coming down the main straight at Mugello, feel and hear the subtle brakes before lockup.

The T3PA definitely aint 1024 steps of resolution or at least my set certainly were not. So much deadzone so little control. Sadly I cannot remember much of the G25 pedals as I certainly never or knew much about analysing them back then.


Also reading around, the deadzone is apparently normal in the T3PA. Last comment.
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/t3pa-brake-pedal-deadzone.127972/

Quick update. After getting in touch with thrustmaster it seems the deadzone I was experiencing on all 3 pedals was normal and it is there "to prevent the axes to lose their calibration in time" as a result of finding this out I am probably going to sell the T3PA's and get myself the adapter for my G25 pedals if I can't come up with some sort of mod to sort out the issue. Such a shame as I really wanted to use these pedals but I can't feel comfortable with that deadzone.

 

[Orayani]

Feels nice and race-y with those G25 pedal plates. Had to put nice thick rubber tape for them to grip onto with the one screw locked down. No movement at all.

Think I still want to get some custom springs made... and the JBodin load Cell.

 

[Scaff]

I've been looking for a deadzone issue with my TP3A's and have to say I may have gotten lucky, as I don't have that issue at all.

 

[mrbasher]

Pardon me, this is basically from memory... and I can't remember how close the T3PA set is to the T500 set in construction.

Couple things...

First, take a look and make sure the pot is fixed securely in place. Be careful not to overtightened it! You'll pull the shell right off the pot.

If you're feeling adventurous while you're in there, you could take a look at the pot and note it's rotation when pressing the pedal. Now, what you want to do is disengage the gear from the pedal such that it and the pot shaft can be rotated. On the T500 pedal set this can be done by removing the plate that stops the pedal and rotating it up and away. Once you get it disengaged, turn the gear/pot in the same direction it rotates when pressing the pedal. ONLY move it far enough that it's advanced one tooth on the gear once it engages again.

If this isn't making sense, don't even try it... I'm not taking responsibility for you breaking your stuff. That said, this isn't hard to do if you're careful.

What is likely going on here is that these pots are probably the same ones that the T500 sets use. If so, only 60 degrees of their rotation actually will cause a change in voltage. Anything before it outputs 0, basically. If for whatever reason the pot was installed with the gear even one tooth off, it could cause something like this. Rotating it a tooth should put it into the "zone." As well, the wheels autocalibrate the pedals as you use them, all the console compatible wheels do. So changing something like this really doesn't hurt anything.

I'm not sure what is going on in this video, it's just an example for you to see what I'm talking about. It's a T3PA pro set and they do look to work the same as the T500 sets.



In the video you can see the gear on accelerator pedal (on the right here) is rotated what looks to be at least one tooth further towards what would be "zero" when compared to the clutch in the video. This is not abnormal actually. But a story for another time... Anyhow, that's the gear I am referring too. It and the pot shaft need to be rotated such that at rest, it's another tooth further into its travel. It's essentially like having the pedal pressed just a little more all the time. I'd guess if this guy did the same to his set, his accelerator would start working again.

 

[Orayani]

All I can say even though moving the pot one tooth further in on the T3PA, the throttle was very sensitive. Too sensitive as I couldn't hold the throttle with the revs steady on the starting line. Then the brakes were very sensitive. 30 - 40% pressure causing non ABS cars to lock as if it was 90% pressure.

Even a quarter of throttle was bouncing off the rev limiter in neutral.

The bars were fully engaging on the Thrustmaster control panel.

If it was placed back to the first tooth which was how it came, there was this large deadzone.


I'd have to look again...

 

[super_gt]

Very useful topic about the dead zone.

@Orayani Read the comments below,there is solution for your problem.link

 

[Orayani]

That is an extremely hard job to achieve on the T3PA set since you have to strip the pedals right down to get to the pots. Easy enough that is but not easy to adjust for live readings since you have to strip the pedals away from the base so no tension.

Thrustmaster doesn't seem to be good at setting them up? Or my T3PA set came badly configured.

However the T3PA Pro feels nicely set up.

 

[mrbasher]

That's funny super_gt. I had no idea people were doing that already. I guess my suspicion was correct.

 

[Orayani]

Are all these potentiometers the same on Thrustmaster or are some better quality than others? and is there any made with neither deadzone anywhere. Some I've seen a deadzone at the start and/or deadzone at the end of travel while the green bar was lit.

 

[mrbasher]

They were likely purchased by the "10 thousand" or more. This has more to do with how they were installed. It's also not unique to Thrustmaster... Not by a long shot.

 

[Scaff]

New rim.

Video with my impressions to follow.

 

[SGETI]

Video with my impressions to follow.

I would be surprised if you did not really like this wheel. I also purchased one a few weeks ago, combined with the larger size and comfortable wrap, this wheel is a winner. Wont be long till you have labeled all the buttons as I did.

 

[Orayani]

Its a shame they never had the proper paddle shifters.

It would have made the wheel look really premium with those huge pointy shifters rather than the current toy versions.

What I'd also give for those extra yellow buttons. It sure would be wonderful.

 

[Scaff]

Quick video review of the 599 rim and my early play around with a new capture card and video editing software.

 

[Castrol96]

Would a G29 gearstick work with a DFGT?

 

[SGETI]

Would a G29 gearstick work with a DFGT?

I do not know the answer. Suggest you put the question in a G29 thread for quicker response. Good luck.

 

[epic_apri_39]

Would a G29 gearstick work with a DFGT?

From what I remember they don't.

 

[super_gt]

http://www.nextlevelracing.com/next-level-racing-f1gt-formula-1-and-gt-simulator-cockpit/

 

[SGETI]

Updated the main thread with next level racing. They have a unique rig that allows regular racing position, and then converts into F1 racing position.

 

[Jump_Ace]

F1GT looks very compelling. No price yet?


Jerome

 

[super_gt]

F1GT looks very compelling. No price yet?


Jerome

''The prices start at $499 for the United States, and $699 for Australia. According to Inside Sim Racing, the cockpit is scheduled to appear this spring.''

Link

 

[Dmitry Rykov]

Cockpit review Racing Game Seat RR3033

 

[Scaff]

My cheap and nasty (but does the job) USB keypad button box.

 

[Orayani]

You're going to need a bigger chair since you've nearly strapped/bolted everything to it...

 

[EmArA]

So guys, it is time for a new racing rig cockpit and hope to get some of your feedback before pulling the trigger.
Here are the choices so far (appreciate if u have feedback on any/some of them)

- Rseat RS1 (either Assetto corsa edition or Black Alcantara)
- Track Racer RS8 mach 5
- Track Racer RS6
- RaceRoom Seat (RR3055 or 3033)

Open to other options if u can recommend one; however, the rig should be compact 1.5 m or less and must be black with no aluminium frame(s) or silver plates(can conclude that 80/20 would not be an option).

Setup:
- Fanatec CSL elite LC pedals
- T300rs wheel servo base/599xxEVO wheel
- Thrustmaster TH8A

(Edit: to be clear, this is my current setup)

Thanks in advance.