Why are the RUF Porsches so aweful?

  • Thread starter westladog
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Based on his laptimes I'd guess @SuzukaStar would be a WRS D2 Gold or D1 Bronze which would put him easily into the top 1% of all GT players. I have no doubts about his skill level.

Sorry but your equation falls apart with tire widths. If tire width affects performance, how does the Miura, Countach and Dino do so well then, seeing as how they have relatively skinny tires compared to modern cars? They should be far worse than they are then if tire widths affect performance, on similar compound tires.

The fact is, for no discernable reason, some vintage cars are just as fast or faster than cars of the last decade or so and others are not even in the same ballpark, the YB and BTR being two good examples of that.

I know you will quote me, and I will have to explain a lot more :lol:

First, these old vintages are broken even when stock, they have much lower stock weight than they should have, the Miura, LP400, 365 GTB and Dino are using factory claim weight which was highly inaccurate back in the day. A tested LP400 in the era would hover more than 1300+kg, and can reach closer to 1400kg, while the 365 GTB, this is the worst offender, the real car weight more than 1600kg, even the competizione ( race version has 1400+kg ). GT6 365 is way too light and giving it great advantage against newer cars. Then comes the aero drag, old vintage cars like Miura, LP400, Dino have high cd ( drag ) and they accelerate slower on higher speed, this is not the case in GT6, above 180kmh, the lack of drag can be felt and they goes quicker than they should.

My equation do not fall apart at all :) because I knew that all cars in GT6 share same tire model ( CH are the same on all cars for example - apart from width, profile and diameter ). The tires in GT6 are all have high performance similar to modern / current day tires up to RH tires. RM and RS tires are way too much IMO. If you look at Pcars, a game that you always praise :) each car has tailored tires that are period correct. Meaning a '70 car will have tire properly modeled for it's time. This is not the case in GT6, the 70's car has same tire as the latest supercars, same CH, to RS tire ( although they varies in width and size ). A tire from 70's would have much lower grip than current day tires, imagine if you have a LP400 with brand new design Advan AD08R or Michelin Pilot Cup 2 ( with same tread width as stock tire ) What will happen in Pcars, if one of the race car from 70's has the tire from current race cars era, something that you can do today ? The 787B at recent Goodwood event would have new slick which would be different than when it won Le Mans.

I used CH on these old vintages, and although they sill too grippy IMO, it's the closest they can be to get closer to realistic performance. A LP400 and 365 GTB can lap in 1:08 - 1:09s at Tsukuba on CH with attempted correction setup ( weight, distribution ), although they are still much lighter than they should.

I think you would have known this :P This is one area that GT6 simplify too much. A crude level system would have work much better if car to car basis tire model is not possible. A decade tire level from 50's - 60's - '70s - 80's - 90's - 00's - 10's would make things interesting, use current tire as base, and lower each decade tire performance by 5-8%.

And, the old cars that you refer to, they were driven with comfort tires ? I suspect not, they usually driven with sports tire or racing tires. SH to SS on these cars are already overkill IMO, SH or SM may be able to grip better than 70's slick IMO. I have F40 setup to replicate Taisan JGTC car from early 90's and it only needs SM tire at Suzuka to lap faster than the best lap in it's day. GT6 generic tires really make things messy.

For Ruf YB and BTR, they should be on CM tire if going for realistic grip of the era. Fitting sports tire make these cars quicker but do not guarantee they will be competitive using PP level measurement. IRL, there are many factors that can affect a car performance, drivetrain, power/weight, year it was made, tire, setup etc.

A YB IRL may be very quick in straight line and top speed, but on the circuit like Tsukuba, even back in the 90's, it got slaughtered by F40 and can only pass the R32 GTR on the straight and have to struggle on the turns. The driver was really fighting with the car even when braking for the last turn :lol:, tipsy at the edge of rear grip, then can only flat on throttle at back straight and the start/finish line. The YB in the race had 500+PS.
 
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I know you will quote me, and I will have to explain a lot more :lol:

First, these old vintages are broken even when stock, they have much lower stock weight than they should have, the Miura, LP400, 365 GTB and Dino are using factory claim weight which was highly inaccurate back in the day. A tested LP400 in the era would hover more than 1300+kg, and can reach closer to 1400kg, while the 365 GTB, this is the worst offender, the real car weight more than 1600kg, even the competizione ( race version has 1400+kg ). GT6 365 is way too light and giving it great advantage against newer cars. Then comes the aero drag, old vintage cars like Miura, LP400, Dino has high cd ( drag ) and they accelerate slower on higher speed, this is not the case in GT6, above 180kmh, the lack of drag can be felt and they goes quicker than they should.

My equation do not fall apart at all :) because I knew that all cars in GT6 share same tire model ( CH are the same on all cars for example - apart from width, profile and diameter ). The tires in GT6 are all have high performance similar to modern / current day tires up to RH tires. RM and RS tires are way too much IMO. If you look at Pcars, a game that you always praise :) each car has tailored tires that are period correct. Meaning a '70 car will have tire properly modeled for it's time. This is not the case in GT6, the 70's car has same tire as the latest supercars, same CH, to RS tire ( although they varies in width and size ). A tire from 70's would have much lower grip than current day tires, imagine if you have a LP400 with brand new design Advan AD08R or Michelin Pilot Cup 2 ( with same tread width as stock tire ) What will happen in Pcars, if one of the car from 70's has the tire from current race cars era, something that you can do today ? The 787B at recent Goodwood event would have new slick which would be different than when it won Le Mans.

I used CH on these old vintages, and although they sill too grippy IMO, it's the closest they can be to get closer to realistic performance. A LP400 and 365 GTB can lap in 1:08 - 1:09s at Tsukuba on CH with attempted correction setup ( weight, distribution ), although they are still much lighter than they should.

I think you would have known this :P This is one area that GT6 simplify too much. A crude level system would have work much better if car to car basis tire model is not possible. A decade tire level from 50's - 60's - '70s - 80's - 90's - 00's - 10's would make things interesting, use current tire as base, and lower each decade tire performance by 5-8%.

And, the old cars that you refer to, they were driven with comfort tires ? I suspect not, they usually driven with sports tire or racing tires. SH to SS on these cars are already overkill IMO, SH or SM may be able to grip better than 70's slick IMO. I have F40 setup to replicate Taisan JGTC car from early 90's and it only needs SM tire at Suzuka to lap faster than the best lap in it's day. GT6 generic tires really make things messy.

For Ruf YB and BTR, they should be on CM tire if going for realistic grip of the era. Fitting sports tire make these cars quicker but do not guarantee they will be competitive using PP level measurement. IRL, there are many factors that can affect a car performance, drivetrain, power/weight, year it was made, tire, setup etc.

A YB IRL may be very quick in straight line and top speed, but on the circuit like Tsukuba, even back in the 90's, it got slaughtered by F40 and can only pass the R32 GTR on the straight and have to struggle on the turns. The driver was really fighting with the car even when braking for the last turn :lol:, tipsy at the edge of rear grip, then can only flat on throttle at the start/finish line. The YB in the race had 500+PS.
Still doesn't explain why the YB/BTR are so much slower for their power/weight/class regardless of the compound chosen, compared to the Dino/Countach/Miura when all the cars are light weight and the latter are on skinnier tires than the YB/BTR. YB might lack some lateral grip relative to more modern cars, but it should outcorner the Dino and Miura especially, without breaking a sweat, especially given it's much fatter tires. Yet in game the Dino and Miura, stock or tuned, comforts or sports, are world beaters and the YB/BTR struggle against cars of similar spec.
 
Still doesn't explain why the YB/BTR are so much slower for their power/weight/class regardless of the compound chosen, compared to the Dino/Countach/Miura when all the cars are light weight and the latter are on skinnier tires than the YB/BTR. YB might lack some lateral grip relative to more modern cars, but it should outcorner the Dino and Miura especially, without breaking a sweat, especially given it's much fatter tires. Yet in game the Dino and Miura, stock or tuned, comforts or sports, are world beaters and the YB/BTR struggle against cars of similar spec.

Didn't he explain that? The physics for the old cars in GT are weird to say the least, the cars have far too much mechanical grip regardless of the tyres and also have a lack of drag, brakes are also far too good although part of that is down to the tyres. That extends to the classic race cars too that can run on modern slicks and have quite a bit of downforce. The real cars back then either ran treaded tyres or early slicks, both of which had very little grip compared to today. They also usually had no downforce at all, or at best a very minimal amount.
 
Still doesn't explain why the YB/BTR are so much slower for their power/weight/class regardless of the compound chosen, compared to the Dino/Countach/Miura when all the cars are light weight and the latter are on skinnier tires than the YB/BTR. YB might lack some lateral grip relative to more modern cars, but it should outcorner the Dino and Miura especially, without breaking a sweat, especially given it's much fatter tires. Yet in game the Dino and Miura, stock or tuned, comforts or sports, are world beaters and the YB/BTR struggle against cars of similar spec.

Maybe the driver ? setup ? or track ? how much slower ? I rarely raced YB against Countach or Dino or Miura online, so I don't know how much difference in lap time. Are we using PP as well ? because PP is not accurate for reference. I'm thinking that the RR drivetrain in GT6 is too unforgiving in handling, which may be the main cause of the YB struggling, but that may also mirroring the real YB :lol: Watching it slowly crawling at Tsukuba Best Motoring race is sad :(, while the F40 quickly pass each car like nothing.

YB might lack some lateral grip relative to more modern cars, but it should outcorner the Dino and Miura especially, without breaking a sweat, especially given it's much fatter tires. Yet in game the Dino and Miura, stock or tuned, comforts or sports, are world beaters and the YB/BTR struggle against cars of similar spec.

Is this fact from real life or just in game ? Because in real life, YB is like top speed/drag queen and not a track monster on technical or twisty tracks, it struggles a lot at Tsukuba averaging only 1:08s when raced ( it may excel in high speed track like oval ) The YB crawls on the tight turns at Tsukuba.
 
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Didn't he explain that? The physics for the old cars in GT are weird to say the least, the cars have far too much mechanical grip regardless of the tyres and also have a lack of drag, brakes are also far too good although part of that is down to the tyres. That extends to the classic race cars too that can run on modern slicks and have quite a bit of downforce. The real cars back then either ran treaded tyres or early slicks, both of which had very little grip compared to today. They also usually had no downforce at all, or at best a very minimal amount.
Did you read my post at all? I suspect not. The Dino, Miura, Countach and some other vintage cars are world beaters and all are older than the YB and BTR which struggle to keep up with anything close to the same specs.

Maybe the driver ? setup ? or track ? how much slower ? I rarely raced YB against Countach or Dino or Miura online, so I don't know how much difference in lap time. Are we using PP as well ? because PP is not accurate for reference. I'm thinking that the RR drivetrain in GT6 is too unforgiving in handling, which may be the main cause of the YB struggling, but that may also mirroring the real YB :lol: Watching it slowly crawling at Tsukuba Best Motoring race is sad :(

Is this fact from real life or just in game ? Because in real life, YB is like top speed/drag queen and not a track monster on technical or twisty tracks, it struggles a lot at Tsukuba averaging only 1:08s when raced ( it may excel in high speed track like oval ) The YB crawls on the tight turns at Tsukuba.
Tsukuba Best Motoring isn't an all out motor race, it's an exhibition for television. We have no idea what tires were used, what condition they were in etc. In GT we can compare cars on identical compounds under ideal conditions.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/suzuka-lap-times-for-640-cars.314470/

2:15.6 87' YB - 462hp/1150kgs

2:15.1 74' Countach - 363hp/1065kgs
2:15.6 71' Ferrari 365 - 336hp/1200kgs

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/mid-field-raceway-lap-times-for-500-cars.325386/

1:25.4 71' Ferrari Dino - 185hp/1080kgs

1:26.7 06' S2000 - 229hp/1250kgs
1:25.6 91' NSX - 270hp/1365kgs
 
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Should YB able to easily keep up with any cars with similar specs ? I doubt Pcars or AC YB will be able to do so without struggling. It's RR layout already makes most drivers struggle to begin with and IRL it can't even compete with F40 which should have been comparable if going by power and weight.



Watch till the end of the race to see the gulf in lap time, both F40 and CTR started from the back, but the F40 is last and further back, yet can pass all the cars with no sweat, and watch the YB struggle to pass each car and finally passed R32 GTR near the end of the race.

The F40 has 530PS and YB 518PS, but the best lap of YB was slower by almost 3s :eek:. A YB would have been lighter by F40 most of the time. Watch how the F40 pass the YB :lol: From the outside at the last hairpin to the back straight, finish line and 1st corner entry on 2nd lap.
 
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Unless the OP or another person has more questions or concerns about the RUF's

It's too bad that's not your decision to make.
There was some arguing going on and so I stressed my opinion on the matter, and @Ridox2JZGTE and @Johnnypenso started having, in my opinion, a constructive discussion. If you would have taken the whole sentence into consideration, instead of half of my sentence it may have made more sense.

Also, as I read this, it seemed like you were politely scolding me for what looks like mini-modding, but I was just trying to stress my opinion about the arguing. I also know text doesn't always come across the same to everyone though, so it could just be my reading skills.
 
Ok I take it back. The RUF's, besides the 3400S maybe, punch below their weight somewhat. I guess I just like them for what they are: cars for masochists :cheers:

Can I just leave this here on my way out the door?


Tried to mimic this lap, driver seems to just have fun, over playing several places, but so did I, mine slides were bit wider, just because wanted to push bit more, I'm not dying if it goes out ;)
Most of corners remembered to go with same gear, but some not, not easy to remember after one look of video. Driver on video uses pretty fine gears, car is really easy on those.
I was using Ridox's replica with CM tires, same what on earlier my video, only change is CM tires instead of CS. Much more fun and 1:1 movement to real.

 
Tried to mimic this lap, driver seems to just have fun, over playing several places, but so did I, mine slides were bit wider, just because wanted to push bit more, I'm not dying if it goes out ;)
Most of corners remembered to go with same gear, but some not, not easy to remember after one look of video. Driver on video uses pretty fine gears, car is really easy on those.
I was using Ridox's replica with CM tires, same what on earlier my video, only change is CM tires instead of CS. Much more fun and 1:1 movement to real.


Wow! That was one wild lap, OdeFinn! 👍 You know that I drive the same setup as you, from Ridox's Garage, but I think I usually drive it with CS tires. I'll have to double-check. Watching your video has got me in the mood to take my Yellowbird out for a spin around the Nordschleife. Unfortunately, I probably really will "spin"... I can't believe you held some of those insane drifts. Great driving! :bowdown:
 
Did you read my post at all? I suspect not. The Dino, Miura, Countach and some other vintage cars are world beaters and all are older than the YB and BTR which struggle to keep up with anything close to the same specs.

Tsukuba Best Motoring isn't an all out motor race, it's an exhibition for television. We have no idea what tires were used, what condition they were in etc. In GT we can compare cars on identical compounds under ideal conditions.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/suzuka-lap-times-for-640-cars.314470/

2:15.6 87' YB - 462hp/1150kgs

2:15.1 74' Countach - 363hp/1065kgs
2:15.6 71' Ferrari 365 - 336hp/1200kgs

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/mid-field-raceway-lap-times-for-500-cars.325386/

1:25.4 71' Ferrari Dino - 185hp/1080kgs

1:26.7 06' S2000 - 229hp/1250kgs
1:25.6 91' NSX - 270hp/1365kgs

Have you watched the video I linked ? If you think that was exhibition race for television :lol:, I don't know what else to say, the F40 almost side swipe the NSX, and the CTR were gunning it against F40 on 1st lap back straight and lose on 2nd lap 1st corner entry braking. If those were not all out race, how does the F40 going through the field quickly passing all the Japanese sports car ( RX7, NSX, MR2, R32 GTR ) like it was really going for the lead ? Watch more of these early 90's BM races, lots of super car battle ( Diablo, Venturi 400 GT, RUF BR, Porsches - RS, Carrera 4, Corvette C4 ZR1, Viper R/T, McLaren F1 etc ) and they are all raced like a true races.

And you have missed my point, that comparing stock cars in GT6 is pretty much useless as they are inaccurate representation of the real car ( weight issue and tire having same model for all cars ). LP400 Countach should weight about 1300+kg, Ferrari 365 1600+kg, Dino would be about 1300+kg, while YB would be 1220+kg and some of these cars have wrong weight distribution when stock ( either not enough at the front or rear ) The Dino at 1080kg and 365 at 1200kg claimed weight by Ferrari, not ever going to happen on real stock car, ever :lol: I consider these stock 70's car as tuned ( weight reduction applied ), and were these test laps done on grip = real ? Lap times also not really accurate measure of car ability, from track to track, one car can excel and another track can perform worse due to the variety of corner speed, straight line, chicane etc.

IRL, an integra type r often can compete very close against WRX, R33 GTR, MR2, and some more powerful cars at Tsukuba, this is just one example how many factors can influence lap times. The CTR best record at Tsukuba is 1:06s while F40 is 1:03.73 ( in a race ). A newer 458 Italia did 1:02.643, about 1s faster on solo time attack. The generation gap is huge from 1980's to 2010, with much different tire as well.

In GT6, I won't worry too much about realistic lap time performance level from car to car in stock condition, they were not accurate to begin with and tuning them in what most tuners do tend to make things worse in terms of accuracy ( messing with ride height glitch, weight distribution, tranny flip etc ), one slower car IRL can be very quick in game by exploiting the physics.

And this is another video to show that Best Motoring race is not exhibition, but these pro drivers do can get really serious :lol:

Watch till the end, Takuya-san really done it this time and Nakaya-san reflexes is great as always and those lightning fast shifts, while the poor Tsuchiya-san, :lol: all he can do is make a joke out of it. Gan-san did great driving here against the RX7 in a slower Integra 4 Door :) Must watch !! :D Almost no lift off oversteer here, except for the MR and FR maybe :lol:



and a hot version video ( similar to Best Motoring but different focus on cars - tuners, drift etc )



The N2 AE86 races are great to watch, they are not exhibition at all, but a real competition between tuning garages and private owner/driver against Tsuchiya-san TRD N2 AE86.

 
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Wow! That was one wild lap, OdeFinn! 👍 You know that I drive the same setup as you, from Ridox's Garage, but I think I usually drive it with CS tires. I'll have to double-check. Watching your video has got me in the mood to take my Yellowbird out for a spin around the Nordschleife. Unfortunately, I probably really will "spin"... I can't believe you held some of those insane drifts. Great driving! :bowdown:
After my "night" I'll record one under 8:05 lap time, beating that 10-year lasted YB lap record, using CM tires. I'm guessing lap time around flat 8 min or few secs under.
 
@OdeFinn Which one of @Ridox2JZGTE tunes are you using ? I had a look in his garage and found there were three,any chance you could post up which one it was ? Cheers...
And as for that lap-wow...just wow,I doff my cap to you sir-awesome driving :cool:
 
@OdeFinn Which one of @Ridox2JZGTE tunes are you using ? I had a look in his garage and found there were three,any chance you could post up which one it was ? Cheers...
And as for that lap-wow...just wow,I doff my cap to you sir-awesome driving :cool:
Auto Motor Und Sport + Sport Auto 1988 RUF CTR Yellowbird Replica

Tuned to Replicate RUF CTR Yellowbird
Comfort Medium




CAR : RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87
Tire : Comfort Medium


Specs 40/60 Distribution - BASE ( Real life )
Horsepower: 462 HP / 469 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque : 407.9 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1222 kg
Ballast : 153 kg
Ballast Position : 22 - Optional OLD : 18
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60
Performance Points: 522

Specs 38/62 Distribution
Horsepower: 462 HP / 469 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque : 407.9 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1222 kg
Ballast : 153 kg
Ballast Position : 42 - Optional OLD : 37
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62
Performance Points: 522

Specs 37/63 Distribution
Horsepower: 462 HP / 469 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque : 407.9 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1222 kg
Ballast : 153 kg
Ballast Position : 46
Weight Distribution : 37 / 63
Performance Points: 522


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED ) -MANDATORY
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Giallo Modena





Tuning Parts Installed :
Racing Exhaust
Fully Customizable Suspension
Full Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 3



Suspension - RUF Tuned Torsion Bar & Bilstein Damper

Front, Rear
Ride Height: 118 128
Spring Rate: 5.10 7.14
Dampers (Compression): 7 4
Dampers (Extension): 4 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.0 2.0
Toe Angle: -0.10 0.05

Alternative Alignment :
Camber Angle: 1.5 2.5
Toe Angle: -0.10 0.20




DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - RUF CTR 5 Speed

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 400kmh / 249mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.786
2nd 1.600
3rd 1.115
4th 0.828
5th 0.625
6th 0.596 - Ignore for authenticity
Set Final 4.000, OPTIONAL 3.777 Corrected Final to get 211 MPH at 7000RPM


LSD 80% Lock - BASE
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 48
Braking Sensitivity: 24


LSD 80% Lock - Higher Preload - Optional
Initial Torque : 24
Acceleration Sensitivity: 48
Braking Sensitivity: 24



Brake Balance:
5/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/5 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


The RUF CTR Yellow Bird is a legendary tuned Porsche that breaks top speed record for production cars back in the late '80s. Alois Ruf had a different goal than most other Porsche tuner back in the day. He chose to go for less drag, more top speed, lightweight but still offers great handling for a rear engined Porsche. Using non turbo body 930, he developed the engine and twin turbo kit to produce over 469 PS for a low 1.1 Bar of boost, Alois Rud admitted that on the CTR ‘we use very big horses in Pfaffenhausen’, which means 469PS was a modest statement.. The boost level was adjustable up to 1.2 Bar, producing more than 500PS based on Yellow Bird owner reports. 29 examples were built from RUF VIN chassis ( not conversion ), while there are many more CTR built from converted Porsche ( still unconfirmed )

This replica is based on the Auto Motor Und Sport and Sport Auto 1988 Magazine reviews. Test weight was at 1222kg, with several sets of weight distribution included, from 40/60 to 37/63. Some RUF technical books and the door plate on the car itself listed the weight with distribution at 40/60. Alois Ruf also mentioned that he went a great length to improve the balance by moving components from rear to front when possible ( front oil coolers ) and aim for 40/60 distribution. Recent articles mentioned 38/62, more likely from CTR with driver onboard and built from Porsche 930 conversion. FM5 uses 37/63 distribution, which might be plausible if taken from later year Porsche 930 conversion.

Power is set at 462 HP or 469 PS ( stock ), no oil change with body rigidity improvement mandatory as the real CTR has full roll cage.
Suspension of RUF CTR uses torsion bars and Bilstein Damper with 22mm front stabilizer bar and 20mm rear stabilizer bar, specially tuned by RUF extensively at Austrian race tracks Osterreichring and Salzburgring.
The torsion bar rate value has not been confirmed and the values are too low anyway ( can't be reached in GT6 )
I decided to use real life setup already proven at the track.
The spring rate used in this replica is based on Eibach Race Springs at 50 N/mm and 70 N/mm front/rear. The setup was used in real life on 930 Turbo with 1040 dry weight built for Nordschleife track/street ( 500+PS )
Damper, ARB has been tuned to support the weight distribution and spring rate, while camber and toe uses street/mild track Porsche 930 alignment.

The MN P911 RUF CTR tested by Sport Auto has 80% lock LSD, which also replicated with medium preload LSD. RUF offers lower lock 60% LSD as standard fitment on each RUF CTR and BTR sold to the public with 80% lock used on the 1st CTR as option. The high lock LSD might be too much for the usual customer who drive their car daily.

Gearing has been corrected with RUF gear set as offered in their brochure. The 5 speed uses 4.000 final, and the 6th gear in GT6 should not be used. I have also provided optional final at 3.777 to replicate the real life test result at 211mph @7000 RPM ( redline )

The RUF CTR was tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring, Midfield and Spa. The real life record at Tsukuba in Best Motoring was 1:06.12. Using 38/62 distribution, oil changed build ( 463HP using limiter ), 1222kg, 3.777 Final, the RUF managed 1:05.808 lap on CM tire.

Updated : Changed 40/60 spec as base based on test review against Assetto Corsa and real life data. Added optional LSD with higher preload and alternative alignment with higher camber and more rear toe in.



Special Review by @Lewis_Hamilton driving both GT6 version replica and Assetto Corsa and 1080/60 fps video of the lap at Spa on both GT6 replica and Assetto Corsa Yellow Bird :

Ok, so I've ran some laps of the 38/62 weight distribution set up in GT6, and then hopped on to AC (both games running at the same time). Tried some laps at default LSD (40%), and at 80%. There's also the option for 60% which I haven't tried.

Initial impressions are that GT6 is both too slippery and grippy at the same time, if that makes any sense whatsoever, and I'm wondering how much of this comes down to GT6's track grip settings, broken camber physics and pandering to the casual players. Between the two games, I matched the same time of day, ambient temps and weather conditions (50% GT6 / mid-heavy cloud cover AC), and in AC I set the track to optimum conditions - which is the equivalent of a whole field of cars that have rubbered in the track for many laps. The reason why I've picked this rather than a none rubbered in track that's slick and slippery is because the YB in AC would be even slower. Interestingly, the look of the lighting/atmosphere in both is very similar.

As for the car:
In GT6 with 38/62 WD, the back end steps out both more frequently, easily and by much greater angles, but at the same time, it is still holding higher cornering speeds and is easy to recover, not once did I spin or go flying off the track. In AC, both with 40% and 80% LSD, the car feels more stable/planted but has lower cornering speed ability. 80% feels too safe to me however. The biggest difference is that in AC, you only need about half of the momentum of the weight shifting around at the rear in order to put the car in a situation where it is impossible to save and you end up facing the wrong way, no matter how quickly you react, what you do with the pedals or steering wheel. If you try and shift the weight around quickly, it's going to spin every time, where in GT6 it turns into an angled drift which you can save.

Another thing I noticed is that there is more wheel spin in AC - coming out of any corner in 2nd gear - despite GT6 being on the 2nd least grippy set of tyres. To match AC in this regard and cornering speeds, I think you would have to go down to CH tyres. In my opinion the problem is when you do that on GT6, it starts to feel like you're driving in the wet, you just don't have that feeling of connection with the road. Trying to match what I was doing in GT6 either resulted in going wide or the rear coming around despite initially being at much lower slip angles than GT6, but I have always complained about this issue for lord knows how many years, GT6 is just too forgiving and allows you to be far too aggressive, that's just how the physics are. Over all, lap times in GT6 were 4-5 seconds quicker around Spa. I'd test around Tsukuba but I don't think the Tsukuba that's been modded by whoever in AC is of high enough quality, at least Spa is fully modeled and laser scanned by Kunos.

I'm going to give the 40/60 WD set up a go now, I reckon that will help match the two games closer together, so that there's less weight on the rear causing more wheel spin in 2nd, and so that the rear isn't swinging around so wildly and easily. Braking without ABS on both is pretty similar, you can feel the bite and lock up much better in AC (a result of the game physics and not the cars), but importantly the actual braking distances and point of lock up is closely matched.

So after the first test, I think CH tyres in GT6 will get the games to perform similar laps times and cornering speeds, but I don't think they'd be anything you could do to match the feeling you have in AC of driving a real car simply because it is much more advanced and has a lot more grunt to pull it off (hardware wise).

Please don't think I am criticizing your replica, by GT6 standards it feels great and you've done a great job, it's GT's physics that are letting it down rather than the car itself. If I drive in GT6 the same way I have to in AC then both feel more similar, it's when you come to pushing lap times that GT exposes it's flaws. I'll give you some more feedback on the other 40/60 WD and will probably try "stock" 43/57 as well.



Good news! It's a new Dacia Sandero!

Ok so I've tried out the 40/60 distribution and also bumped up the rear BB to 6. Did about 15 laps on GT6 and then jumped into AC, increased the tyre pressure but dropped it down to "Green" track settings (about medium grip out of all the options, takes a while for the track to come in). Within 5 laps I was just 5 hundredths off my lap time in GT6.

The 40/60 WD helps to match the AC versions corner entry understeer, tyre slip in 2nd gear and cornering speeds. There were differences here and there, and I also find it harder to get the line right in AC (need to fiddle with controller settings), but over all, the lap times are nearly identical. In GT6 I also had a couple of rear end snapping and off track moments like I did in AC when trying to drive both the same way. GT6's version still has a looser rear end, and it's still easier to regain control, but the behaviour of the car is much closer. Now if only GT had a tyre model, I bet you could get them to react very similar indeed, with the main differences being how the cars feel to drive due to the different physics engines.

I've saved a replay on each game. Driving style and lines will probably look quite different, but the particular lap replays I saved had a mere 0.03 difference.


I tested with the 4.000 final drive, the gearing was pretty much spot on so I didn't fiddle with it. I stuck with CM tyres, increasing the tyre pressure and ambient temp by 2 celsius in AC helped to make the car faster in AC. I tried to drive both the same, I fell behind in GT6 after Eau Rouge because the rear was sliding, but managed to catch up the gap at Bruxelles with a more aggressive exit that only GT6 would allow, from there on, both laps are almost identical, even the gear changes. I tried to keep the upshift time equal in GT6, as the YB in GT6 can upshift instantly, whereas in AC the game simulates this better. Basically I let go of the throttle for the same amount of time that I would in my real life car when "giving it the beans".

Though I agree that adding more camber would have helped adjust the lap time, I think it would have made the car too slippery, GT6 already feels like it's on ice when you've just come from AC, there is so much difference in the feeling even if both cars are doing the same thing. Anyway here's the video, split screen 1080p/60.







40/60 version, 1.0/2.0 camber, 20/48/24 LSD, 4.000 final gear.
link to @Ridox2JZGTE garage for this tune
 
Have you watched the video I linked ? If you think that was exhibition race for television :lol:, I don't know what else to say, the F40 almost side swipe the NSX, and the CTR were gunning it against F40 on 1st lap back straight and lose on 2nd lap 1st corner entry braking. If those were not all out race, how does the F40 going through the field quickly passing all the Japanese sports car ( RX7, NSX, MR2, R32 GTR ) like it was really going for the lead ? Watch more of these early 90's BM races, lots of super car battle ( Diablo, Venturi 400 GT, RUF BR, Porsches - RS, Carrera 4, Corvette C4 ZR1, Viper R/T, McLaren F1 etc ) and they are all raced like a true races.

And you have missed my point, that comparing stock cars in GT6 is pretty much useless as they are inaccurate representation of the real car ( weight issue and tire having same model for all cars ). LP400 Countach should weight about 1300+kg, Ferrari 365 1600+kg, Dino would be about 1300+kg, while YB would be 1220+kg and some of these cars have wrong weight distribution when stock ( either not enough at the front or rear ) The Dino at 1080kg and 365 at 1200kg claimed weight by Ferrari, not ever going to happen on real stock car, ever :lol: I consider these stock 70's car as tuned ( weight reduction applied ), and were these test laps done on grip = real ? Lap times also not really accurate measure of car ability, from track to track, one car can excel and another track can perform worse due to the variety of corner speed, straight line, chicane etc.

IRL, an integra type r often can compete very close against WRX, R33 GTR, MR2, and some more powerful cars at Tsukuba, this is just one example how many factors can influence lap times. The CTR best record at Tsukuba is 1:06s while F40 is 1:03.73 ( in a race ). A newer 458 Italia did 1:02.643, about 1s faster on solo time attack. The generation gap is huge from 1980's to 2010, with much different tire as well.

In GT6, I won't worry too much about realistic lap time performance level from car to car in stock condition, they were not accurate to begin with and tuning them in what most tuners do tend to make things worse in terms of accuracy ( messing with ride height glitch, weight distribution, tranny flip etc ), one slower car IRL can be very quick in game by exploiting the physics.

And this is another video to show that Best Motoring race is not exhibition, but these pro drivers do can get really serious :lol:

Watch till the end, Takuya-san really done it this time and Nakaya-san reflexes is great as always and those lightning fast shifts, while the poor Tsuchiya-san, :lol: all he can do is make a joke out of it. Gan-san did great driving here against the RX7 in a slower Integra 4 Door :) Must watch !! :D Almost no lift off oversteer here, except for the MR and FR maybe :lol:



and a hot version video ( similar to Best Motoring but different focus on cars - tuners, drift etc )



The N2 AE86 races are great to watch, they are not exhibition at all, but a real competition between tuning garages and private owner/driver against Tsuchiya-san TRD N2 AE86.


I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of the impressions of cars that the game designers and developers are given to work with and try to replicate are given by the Hot Version crew
 
Urgh, yellow bird wins.. Was thinking too much from my driving skills with it, that 8:05 is hard when driving similar way as that original lap record driver did. I barely get it under that time, about 1-2 second is still on reserve, but that needs better lap.
If I drive on risky way, using smaller gears on several places and scream engine high then I could go on 8 or bit under, but that driving way means super big risks of driving out from track.
It toke three laps to get under 8:05, fourth lap ended bad, red flag on Muttkurve, it was going that few seconds faster, but my concentration was lost.
 
The CTR Yellowbird is awful. I doubt it really handles like that in real life. In GT6 its terribly awful. The smallest amount of small steering input around a corner if applying throttle is going spin you. Not just that but its as soon as you corner even without throttle the car is stupidly unstable. I really doubt its this bad in real life. The game does make the car suck bad. Maybe its the racing soft tyres. I'd probably recommend using comfort hard or comfort soft. As GT6 crappy physics engine makes cars super shaky and unstable and twitchy at times. They will give car less grip and make it less tail happy. Because the engine is in the back and weight distribution is totally off that's why its so tail happy. Its probably best to keep these cars standard spec in the game. Masses of BHP and customization make them undriveable unless you know how to tune them decently. If you put a wheelie drag tune on them they are great at keeping up with much faster cars with much more BHP. This is what I use them for the most. I disagree with PD giving the RGT a little over a measly 500bhp. Don't know what they were thinking.
 
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I think the tail-happines of the RUF's can be used with some ballast as an advantage removing chronical GT6 understeer and lack of proper lift-off oversteer. Actually these cars like the Stratos if properly tuned can be understeer free and competitive.
 
The CTR Yellowbird is awful. I doubt it really handles like that in real life. In GT6 its terribly awful. The smallest amount of small steering input around a corner if applying throttle is going spin you. Not just that but its as soon as you corner even without throttle the car is stupidly unstable. I really doubt its this bad in real life. The game does make the car suck bad. Maybe its the racing soft tyres. I'd probably recommend using comfort hard or comfort soft. As GT6 crappy physics engine makes cars super shaky and unstable and twitchy at times. They will give car less grip and make it less tail happy. Because the engine is in the back and weight distribution is totally off that's why its so tail happy. Its probably best to keep these cars standard spec in the game. Masses of BHP and customization make them undriveable unless you know how to tune them decently. If you put a wheelie drag tune on them they are great at keeping up with much faster cars with much more BHP. This is what I use them for the most. I disagree with PD giving the RGT a little over a measly 500bhp. Don't know what they were thinking.

To get the best from these cars you really need to adapt your driving style,throwing it into a corner and giving it a boot full to power out like the majority of other cars in the game will just spin you into the nearest wall.You need to get your braking and gear changes done before the corner,keep the power constant,guide it around,small delicate inputs, and only get back on the throttle(gently) when you're pointing in a more or less straight line.Slow and steady until you get the feel right,and then a bit faster,a bit more and when it clicks these cars are just such a joy to drive,and DRIVE them is exactly what you have to do,they're not the easiest,but the rewards are massive.
 
It's one of the cars that punches way above it's weight.

Yeah, I remembered it was pretty good in GT2, (the 4 wheel drive RUF in GT2 was a rocket), they sucked a bit in subsequent games but this version was surprisingly good.
 

RUF RGT in Suzuka Seasonal, immense fun around the turns, awesomely fast down the straight. . .
Wish I tried it sooner 👍
I may be crazy, but I love my RGT as a drift/hooligan/fun car. It oversteers a little, then stays there. It may not be that quick, but sliding around Ascari is a ton of fun.

The car seems to be a bit understeer-ish stock, so I skewed the ride height, suspension stroke, spring rate, and most importantly of all the toe angle. Maximum toe-out on the front wheels makes all the difference in the world. :lol:
 
Actually... One could argue that at least one of the 29 RUF Yellow Birds was generally a Porsche... See Link...

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/classic/rare-ruf-ctr-yellow-bird-sale

“In the end RUF built 29 Yellow Birds, of which this is one. The body is from a normal, slim-hipped 911 Carrera 3.2. The engine is, too, but RUF bored it out to 3.4-litres, added twin-turbochargers, twin-intercoolers and a fuel-injection system originally developed for the Porsche 962. It also fitted a five-speed gearbox (911 Turbos of the era only had four forward gears), massive brakes and tyres from the Porsche 959. RUF claimed 469bhp – but it’s widely believed this is as epic an understatement as ever there’s been.”

So... I’m gonna paint my new BIRD BLACK SCHWARZ and drive my new 5 speed Porsche around the ring. Is it ok to make believe when sheltering in place ? :lol:
 
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Actually... One could argue that at least one of the 29 RUF Yellow Birds was generally a Porsche... See Link...

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/classic/rare-ruf-ctr-yellow-bird-sale

“In the end RUF built 29 Yellow Birds, of which this is one. The body is from a normal, slim-hipped 911 Carrera 3.2. The engine is, too, but RUF bored it out to 3.4-litres, added twin-turbochargers, twin-intercoolers and a fuel-injection system originally developed for the Porsche 962. It also fitted a five-speed gearbox (911 Turbos of the era only had four forward gears), massive brakes and tyres from the Porsche 959. RUF claimed 469bhp – but it’s widely believed this is as epic an understatement as ever there’s been.”

So... I’m gonna paint my new BIRD BLACK SCHWARZ and drive my new 5 speed Porsche around the ring. Is it ok to make believe when sheltering in place ? :lol:
Instead a Black one paint it a Monza Red or a Laser red because a Red color is faster :).
 
I know red is the fastest color and even faster when adding to it some white racing stripes, but I decided it was better to be a little slower and more authentic to the original car in the link I posted... :D
 
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