Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions
- Thread starter nd 4 holden spd
- 1,479 comments
- 84,429 views
- 3,534
- London
Do spark plugs have a run in period?
I bought some new spark plugs for my car last week but the car feels like its running less smootth than when I had the old spark plugs in. The engine turns over a bit longer before starting and the engine feels jerky low end and low speed.
I bought some new spark plugs for my car last week but the car feels like its running less smootth than when I had the old spark plugs in. The engine turns over a bit longer before starting and the engine feels jerky low end and low speed.
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
No, they don't usually have a run-in period.
Did you gap them correctly before installing them?
Are all the contacts making secure contact and are the boots seated properly?
Did you put dialectric grease in the boots so they would make good contact?
Did you gap them correctly before installing them?
Are all the contacts making secure contact and are the boots seated properly?
Did you put dialectric grease in the boots so they would make good contact?
- 2,266
- GTP_Thatman/Thatmanthere
- A Man Hamster
Is there Any difference between ABS brake calipers vs non ABS ones? and is there a "rotor" for Drum Brakes its been awhile since I opened one of those I just forgot what the pad runs on to brake itself or you just change the pads on those things.
I would think the calipers would be the same, the sensors are usually attached at the rotor or axle I think. The "rotor" on a drum is the inside of the drum cylinder. You just change the pads (theyre called shoes on drum brakes). If the drum surface is rough or scored you can have it turned like a disc brake rotor.
- 5,768
- Anoka, MN
Disc brakes have rotors and calipers whereas Drum brakes have drums and shoes. 
- 2,266
- GTP_Thatman/Thatmanthere
- A Man Hamster
Thanks didnt know if changing them was much different but if its just a sensor im sure its nothing.
Yes I know, I was tired , hadn't taken apart drum brakes in awhile and was somehow too lazy to just look on the internet. Just double checking though, some needle nose pliers should get that spring in there back on right?
KSaiyu
(Banned)
- 2,822
I changed a clutch on a Fiat Punto a few months ago after it was completely gone and have noticed it makes a groaning noise when riding the biting point in first. I figure it isn't the release bearing since it only makes the noise at biting point, not to mention the kit came with a new one. The only thing I noticed out of the ordinary was the rear oil seal was starting to leak but it wasn't major yet and the customer couldn't afford more work. My work was checked by my dad at replacement so I can rule out fitting error (hopefully 
), and after checking google I've seen this problem pop up on message boards followed by the standard "it's the clutch" answer.
), and after checking google I've seen this problem pop up on message boards followed by the standard "it's the clutch" answer.
- 7,666
Does anybody know what could cause a grinding sound coming from the rear axle on a FWD car? Over summer, I was out driving around in the GTI and the left rear started making a loud grinding sound so I pulled over and checked the brakes and suspension for anything and didn't find anything. So I drove away and the noise went away and hasn't returned.
Yesterday, I was out with my friend in his '93 Camry (which has very worn suspension) and we went around a corner and it started making that same noise. I did a quick check around the wheel and didn't find anything rubbing (although I couldn't be too thorough). It did it while he was driving straight, then it went away and only did it in left turns. And now it's gone.
It kinda sounded like something rubbing against a thin piece of metal, and in both cases only made a noise once during every part of wheel rotation.
Yesterday, I was out with my friend in his '93 Camry (which has very worn suspension) and we went around a corner and it started making that same noise. I did a quick check around the wheel and didn't find anything rubbing (although I couldn't be too thorough). It did it while he was driving straight, then it went away and only did it in left turns. And now it's gone.
It kinda sounded like something rubbing against a thin piece of metal, and in both cases only made a noise once during every part of wheel rotation.
- 5,768
- Anoka, MN
Bad bearings or bearings need grease?
- 8,480
- P_Balance
I'm going to say wheel bearing or pads/shoes rubbing on the rotor/drum.
See if it goes away if you pull a little on the handbrake while driving. That usually will let you know if it's the brakes or not.
See if it goes away if you pull a little on the handbrake while driving. That usually will let you know if it's the brakes or not.
nobuffalo
Premium
- 2,692
- USA
continued from https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=3299630&posted=1#post3299630 post #1286
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if the alternator was bad then I shouldn't be able to drive long with all my accessories on, headlights and fogs on as well right? Although the more I think about it, that just may be it, I could just have a weak alternator, but not completely bad if thats possible. For instance, when I push the brakes my lights will dim, or if I turn the heater on they will also dim for a bit then brighten. Also, the car idles a little erratically, and my lights will dim and brighten along with the rpms.
BTW, another 5 minutes of driving managed to charge it enough to start on it's own.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if the alternator was bad then I shouldn't be able to drive long with all my accessories on, headlights and fogs on as well right? Although the more I think about it, that just may be it, I could just have a weak alternator, but not completely bad if thats possible. For instance, when I push the brakes my lights will dim, or if I turn the heater on they will also dim for a bit then brighten. Also, the car idles a little erratically, and my lights will dim and brighten along with the rpms.
BTW, another 5 minutes of driving managed to charge it enough to start on it's own.
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
Yeah, I'll second this. Typically wheelbearings show up as that kind of noise and the main symptoms of a bad wheelbearing are that it varies with speed (and may have resonant frequencies) and that it will change as the car corners (due to lateral loading flexing the loose bearing a little).
It could also be that the rotor or drum edge is rubbing against the inside dust shield. The shields are just stamped sheetmetal and can get bent in from an impact or something.
- 7,666
The dust shield was the first thing I thought, because that was the only thin piece of metal I could think of back there that could be making noise. But does it make sense that something worn or bent would make a racket for five minutes and then stop? AFAIK, the VW hasn't had the problem since August, so I may have just picked something up then.
On the Camry though, it could easily be something bent or worn, because he says the noise happens fairly often.
On the Camry though, it could easily be something bent or worn, because he says the noise happens fairly often.
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
Not exactly car related, but do speed cameras at intersections make a kind of whistling sound when they take your picture? I was making a left turn from a stand-still, but I had to accelerate a little hard to make it before the next oncoming car came; I was paying attention to the actual turn, so I didn't look for a flash. I know the turn was perfectly legal, and I kind of doubt I could have broken any speed limits in such short a space (35mph for both the road I was leaving and the one I was turning onto), but I want to make sure it wasn't the camera, and just my tires chirping.
- 3,433
speed cameras just go ker-ching!
ROAD_DOGG33J
Premium
- 14,287
- IL, USA
- holyc0w1
- holyc0w
The other problem is that after the engine got up to temperature there was smoke (maybe steam) coming from the back of the engine. It had this rubbery smell to it. I think it might be wearing off. Today I could smell it when I turned the defroster on. I'm assuming that this could potentially be spilled fluids just burning off and may go away after a while. Or should I get that checked out?
edit: Well, I found out that the coolant is HOAT and is produced by Valvoline. I still don't know why I could not find that specific company they used. And I think the smell is going away slowly.
link to coolant
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- 7,666
So before I get flamed for this, this question is more a check of what I'm looking at and not really totally serious.
Does anybody know how much it would cost to do a complete conversion of a Subaru WRX to an STI? Clearly a lot of things have to be replaced, but would I be looking at $10,000, $15,000, $20,000 or more (after getting the car)? I know the obvious decision would be to just go out and get an STI, but this is pretty much purely a hypothetical situation.
Does anybody know how much it would cost to do a complete conversion of a Subaru WRX to an STI? Clearly a lot of things have to be replaced, but would I be looking at $10,000, $15,000, $20,000 or more (after getting the car)? I know the obvious decision would be to just go out and get an STI, but this is pretty much purely a hypothetical situation.
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Theoretically $10k or less. Least... It better be to be honest.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
Considering the price of Brembo brakes, I'd say expect to spend around 5k getting the brakes up to par. Then you've got wider fenders and bigger wheels, plus whatever else is done to the engine, along with various electronics. Expensive seats as well.
I'd say well over 10k.
I'd say well over 10k.
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
Yes, indeed. The only reason I could see it would make any sense at all (and I realize you're speaking hypothetically) would be to build an STi wagon.
Which I would sincerely love to have. You have no idea how badly I want to take my mother's lancer wagon and make an Evo VIII out of it.
Which I would sincerely love to have. You have no idea how badly I want to take my mother's lancer wagon and make an Evo VIII out of it.
- 3,460
- Hollywood
I seem to remember that the WRX > STi swap isn't all that pricey, and the wiring harness is almost plug'n'play.
You'd be better off adding a larger turbo and converting to FMIC, bigger injectors (STi pinks for example) and focus on getting some forged pistons and rods in there. Not sure on the limits of the WRX tranny but i'd assume that it would grenade fairly soon after upgrading the turbo.
Obviously the turbo should only be added after the engine and tranny are fully prepped, which might take the car out of action, possibly making the straight STi swap more desirable.
As already mentioned the guys and girls on NASIOC are very good sources of info and may even meet up with you and help with the swap/build if you want/need it.
You'd be better off adding a larger turbo and converting to FMIC, bigger injectors (STi pinks for example) and focus on getting some forged pistons and rods in there. Not sure on the limits of the WRX tranny but i'd assume that it would grenade fairly soon after upgrading the turbo.
Obviously the turbo should only be added after the engine and tranny are fully prepped, which might take the car out of action, possibly making the straight STi swap more desirable.
As already mentioned the guys and girls on NASIOC are very good sources of info and may even meet up with you and help with the swap/build if you want/need it.
- 27,219
- United Kingdom
Bumpage
As some of you will know I'm looking at cars. The flip side to this is that I'll be selling my car soon. There are a number of little niggles that I'd like to fix before I sell it (and in order to help it sell in the first place in a competitive market). Chief amongst which is the sunroof.
A year or so ago it started leaking. I suspect it had been leaking very slightly for a bit longer, as the car used to suffer from damp. But early last year I removed my cheapo rubber floormats, to discover the passenger footwell was like a swimming pool. I vacuumed all the water out, left the car in the garage for a couple of days with a tray of silica crystals on the dash, a portable heater inside and the windows open slightly to let the moisture out, and after that it was fine. I took up the carpet expecting to see a hole in my floorpan, but luckily Ford had chosen to cover the area in a rubbery plastic layer bonded to the floor (presumably as sound deadening) so it turns out the water had been sitting on that, not rusting a big hole in my floor.
Anyway, I sourced the leak to my sunroof, mainly after one day driving to work the whole assembly took a leak in my lap as I braked, after snow on the roof had melted.
My fix at the time? Duct tape around the sunroof seals on the outside of the car. Genius, I'm sure you'll agree:
My very own questionable modification
It works though - no more leaks.
Anyway, I'm sure the next potential owner might not appreciate my ingenuity as much as I do, and might prefer a fully-functioning, leak-free sunroof (I never use the sunroof anyway). One option is to buy a new one - I've seen breakers offering them for sale between about £20 and £45, excluding postage. My Haynes manual of repair/destruction seems to think it's an easy job to replace one, though it mentions virtually nothing about sunroof seals so replacing it might have to be along the trial/error route.
The important bit: My question
I am wondering whether there's another option - repairing/reconditioning the rubber. Are there any products out there that GTPers use that would renew the rubber? I suspect the rubber seal is just a bit dry and therefore not sealing - the car is eleven years old and rubber does tend to degrade, especially when exposed to the elements like a sunroof is.
What do people reckon? Replace or renew?
As some of you will know I'm looking at cars. The flip side to this is that I'll be selling my car soon. There are a number of little niggles that I'd like to fix before I sell it (and in order to help it sell in the first place in a competitive market). Chief amongst which is the sunroof.
A year or so ago it started leaking. I suspect it had been leaking very slightly for a bit longer, as the car used to suffer from damp. But early last year I removed my cheapo rubber floormats, to discover the passenger footwell was like a swimming pool. I vacuumed all the water out, left the car in the garage for a couple of days with a tray of silica crystals on the dash, a portable heater inside and the windows open slightly to let the moisture out, and after that it was fine. I took up the carpet expecting to see a hole in my floorpan, but luckily Ford had chosen to cover the area in a rubbery plastic layer bonded to the floor (presumably as sound deadening) so it turns out the water had been sitting on that, not rusting a big hole in my floor.
Anyway, I sourced the leak to my sunroof, mainly after one day driving to work the whole assembly took a leak in my lap as I braked, after snow on the roof had melted.
My fix at the time? Duct tape around the sunroof seals on the outside of the car. Genius, I'm sure you'll agree:
My very own questionable modification
It works though - no more leaks.Anyway, I'm sure the next potential owner might not appreciate my ingenuity as much as I do, and might prefer a fully-functioning, leak-free sunroof (I never use the sunroof anyway). One option is to buy a new one - I've seen breakers offering them for sale between about £20 and £45, excluding postage. My Haynes manual of repair/destruction seems to think it's an easy job to replace one, though it mentions virtually nothing about sunroof seals so replacing it might have to be along the trial/error route.
The important bit: My question
I am wondering whether there's another option - repairing/reconditioning the rubber. Are there any products out there that GTPers use that would renew the rubber? I suspect the rubber seal is just a bit dry and therefore not sealing - the car is eleven years old and rubber does tend to degrade, especially when exposed to the elements like a sunroof is.
What do people reckon? Replace or renew?
- 3,534
- London
I wouldnt bother trying to repair the seals as the existing rubber might be cracked bad in places. Look for replacement rubber possibly at a scrap yard, dont bother replacing the whole sunroof, its gonna take more money and time than its worth.
