- 5,768
- Anoka, MN
They all build a sedan? They all have a performance level? They all offer a 4 cylinder?
Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions
- Thread starter nd 4 holden spd
- 1,479 comments
- 84,290 views
- 3,542
- Marin County, C
The interiors are all crap? 
EDIT: Ok, back on topic now XD
EDIT: Ok, back on topic now XD
- 5,987
None of the above.
I'll give a hint after some more educated guesses.
I'll give a hint after some more educated guesses.
- 5,768
- Anoka, MN
Actually all of the above, but none of them are what you're looking for. 
- 3,542
- Marin County, C
Actually all of the above, but none of them are what you're looking for.
Ok last guess... They all make ugly cars!
- 2,266
- GTP_Thatman/Thatmanthere
- A Man Hamster
Back on topic.... My Talon, idk dead? When I was cleaning the battery terminals and reconnected them, I got a spark. Now its happened before because I have a capacitor and my car has never had a problem starting. BUT this time it didnt want to go.
I took left it on the charger for like a day or two but still no start. So finally I disconnected the cap and took the battery to checker to have it checked out/charged. Well I reconnected the battery *no cap connected* and same thing just the beep:beep:beep of when my car normally started. I checked all the fuses and still have power to all other things. It was starting just fine before this little ordeal with absolutely no problems. Okay but heres the odd part 
I have been able to push start it and have it run Twice while in this state. So could the starter have just given out or is that not likely.....but at the same time there is no turnover at all. Well thanks for any suggestions at all.
I took left it on the charger for like a day or two but still no start. So finally I disconnected the cap and took the battery to checker to have it checked out/charged. Well I reconnected the battery *no cap connected* and same thing just the beep:beep:beep of when my car normally started. I checked all the fuses and still have power to all other things. It was starting just fine before this little ordeal with absolutely no problems. Okay but heres the odd part I have been able to push start it and have it run Twice while in this state. So could the starter have just given out or is that not likely.....but at the same time there is no turnover at all. Well thanks for any suggestions at all.
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
I would guess that you don't have good connection after reinstalling the battery cables. If you try to start it while the headlights are on, do they go out? If so, you've got a bad connection, or the starter itself is bad. If not, it's likely a flaw in the starter circuit somewhere. You can try replacing the starter relay - it should be in the same block as the underhood fuses. It's a cheap place to start looking, anyway. Also check to make sure the starter is properly grounded. Many have a direct line from the negative terminal.
- 9,646
- Minus955
Does everybody know that Autozone will read your Check Engine Light code FOR FREE with their own OBDII scanner? Most dealerships charge you >$100 just to plug in their own diagnostics. Wow.
You can get the code from Autozone's OBDII scanner and search for the problem related to that code.
Just in case anyone else drives an RSX, all the car's codes can be found here.
You can get the code from Autozone's OBDII scanner and search for the problem related to that code.
Just in case anyone else drives an RSX, all the car's codes can be found here.
- 3,008
- You're crazy if you think
- I can afford either of these.
Alright, this is a question for the Honda faithful.
Say you have a 92-96 Prelude Si. That has an H23A1 DOHC Non-VTEC motor. If I put the head of an H22A1 VTEC motor on it, will that give the engine a VTEC range? And, does the redline change at all? (H23 stock has like 6500 redline, H22 has 7300)
Say you have a 92-96 Prelude Si. That has an H23A1 DOHC Non-VTEC motor. If I put the head of an H22A1 VTEC motor on it, will that give the engine a VTEC range? And, does the redline change at all? (H23 stock has like 6500 redline, H22 has 7300)
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
You'd need the entire H22 top end, computer and wiring.
- 3,534
- London
How do you fix a threaded wheel nut bolt? If you re-tap the bolt wouldnt that make it thinner so the nut wouldnt go on properly and probably damage the bolt again?
nd 4 holden spd
(Banned)
- 6,142
- GTP_nd4holdenspd
- No, another PSN: nd4holdenspd
Sounds like you're up for a new wheel bolt/hub.
- 201
- Maryland, USA
I'd just get a new stud.
- 1,478
Its not as simple as that. The head wont bolt right on. I dont know the details of it since it was never a concern of mine but I know its not easy to do and make reliable. If you go to a site like honda-tech, or preludepower and do a search for h23vtec hybrid, or something along those lines you will find some builds on it. Edit: I know one of the issues is that the H23 doesnt have the same oil squirters as the H22.
On a lighter note, there was a 2.3L VTEC engine in the accord euro-r I think it was. It was called the H23a which was pretty much a bigger H22. There are better routes to go just because this engine is so rare, and pretty expensive.
- 1,505
- Grand Rapids, M
- ThirdeYe1337
- Derek1337
Indeed, use an impact wrench to break off the stud and just get a new stud. Had it happen to my car, and it's fairly common when people don't hand-thread the lugnuts before using the impact wrench on them.
McLaren
Premium
- 45,530
- Texas
Need some help, but I'm finally deciding to modify the TL. What I'm interested in is wheels, exhaust, lip kit, intake, & brakes.
GReddy seems to have the most options, but I know you guys know some tuner sites that have what I'd like. As a note for the wheels, the car is bronze, so not everything works. I'd love to go into more detail & explain everything instead of sounding like someone who can't find anything on their own, but I have to leave for a birthday party right away.
Anything & everything is welcome. 👍
GReddy seems to have the most options, but I know you guys know some tuner sites that have what I'd like. As a note for the wheels, the car is bronze, so not everything works. I'd love to go into more detail & explain everything instead of sounding like someone who can't find anything on their own, but I have to leave for a birthday party right away.
Anything & everything is welcome. 👍
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
Sorry to skip back a few pages guys, but something had my eyes light up with WTF?
Yeah if you want to pay thousands on RAYS magnesium's!!
mustang, I have a set of 17x7 Lenso SC-02's (Samurai Concept). They weigh 8.3kg each (18.6lbs).
Yeah if you want to pay thousands on RAYS magnesium's!!
mustang, I have a set of 17x7 Lenso SC-02's (Samurai Concept). They weigh 8.3kg each (18.6lbs).
- 2,266
- GTP_Thatman/Thatmanthere
- A Man Hamster
I hate coming back to this thread..... All right well... 89 Buick Electra(park Avenue) 3800 pre series 1. The motor slowly began not running smoothly a couple of months back. Recently it began to have hard starts. A week ago reeaally had hard start and couldn't start w/o a jump from the Talon. Then I drove. It died at a stop, had a really rough idle, died again, started and it gave me one hell of a smell and it was also chugging while driving a little too after that. I replaced the distributor pack not too long ago when it started to have a rough idle, that didn't fix the problem, I was told it had its plugs changed like 5 months ago. SO im not really thinking its an electrical/spark problem so much as a fuel problem. Anyone wanna second me on saying its the fuel pump. Or should I see what a shop can find out? Well thanks.
- 21,192
- United States
- nk4e
A common problem with the KA24e Series in the 1989-1990 Nissan 240sx that it has a tick that every owner hears about. My car has it and its a seized or broken Hydraulic Lifter. I have looked up on various Automotive forums ( like AF.com, Nico, 240sx.com ) to do more research on it. How far do I have to dig to get to the lifter(s)? Does anyone know the part # for the lifter? Or probably how reliable is this method:
richcoosa19 @ automotiveforums.com
Here is the thread.
Last edited:
- 3,118
- Sunnyvale, CA
- GTP_Vaxen
New problem for my old (2002) Subaru WRX 5 speed manual (80k miles). Before bringing it back to my mechanic, I wanted some ideas as to what the problem may be.
On the WRX, the turbo kicks in at around 3000 RPM. Under heavy acceleration (throttle open more than 50%), when upshifting, once the RPMs hit 3000, the engine revs spike suddenly (to 5-6k) for 2-3 seconds before returning to the correct RPM level for the speed/gearing (3.5-4k RPM, depending). It feels as if the clutch is being partially engaged as the turbo spools up, and the turbo is lagging more than it used to in it's younger days.
Any clues?
On the WRX, the turbo kicks in at around 3000 RPM. Under heavy acceleration (throttle open more than 50%), when upshifting, once the RPMs hit 3000, the engine revs spike suddenly (to 5-6k) for 2-3 seconds before returning to the correct RPM level for the speed/gearing (3.5-4k RPM, depending). It feels as if the clutch is being partially engaged as the turbo spools up, and the turbo is lagging more than it used to in it's younger days.
Any clues?
- 3,118
- Sunnyvale, CA
- GTP_Vaxen
The process:
1st gear: accelerate from stop, slowly easing out the clutch with acceleration, clutch completely out within a couple seconds, 2k rpm, 15ish MPH
4500rpm: upshift to 2nd (depress clutch, let up on accelerator, shift into 2nd, release clutch -- engine now at about 3k rpm)
2nd gear: clutch fully released, car in gear, press accelerator (about 3/4 throttle)
--- This is the point where the RPMs spike to ~5-6k rpm, but the car doesn't accelerate to match ---
After a couple seconds, the RPMs ease back down to ~3.5k RPM, and normal acceleration curve resumes.
Repeat for upshift from 2nd-3rd, 3rd-4th, etc.
This is somewhat intermittent: it doesn't happen every time, but is happening more frequently (~80% of the time now). The car does not shudder like it would if the clutch were slipping.
I hope that's clear enough. If not, I'll attempt to clarify again.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
Yeah if you want to pay thousands on RAYS magnesium's!!
mustang, I have a set of 17x7 Lenso SC-02's (Samurai Concept). They weigh 8.3kg each (18.6lbs).
No. Those wheels are heavy.
Generally speaking, your wheels are light if they weigh less than their diameter, unless they are very wide.
My 15x7 Enkei wheels weigh 9lb a wheel, and they can be had for under 200 a wheel.
A 17x7.5 Volk Racing TE-37 weighs 15lb. That's not magnesium, just forged.
Rotary Junkie would be correct.
Keef
Premium
- 25,105
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
Agreed.
Japan is pretty much the Mecca of performance tuning--companies like Volk, Enkei, Kosei, Buddy Club, Gram Lights, SSR, and the like make light, high quality wheels. It's hard to find that in American companies because small and light isn't part of the American culture...
- 3,118
- Sunnyvale, CA
- GTP_Vaxen
Clutch is original. I've had my mechanic specifically test out the clutch (as I originally suspected this was the issue), and they tested it extensively and found no issues with it. Clutch does not slip at low RPMs.
But I suspect you may be right. It's the most logical explanation for the problem I'm seeing.
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
Clutches tend to slip in higher gears rather than lower ones, because the gearing is taller and it is easier for the torque to overcome the weak clutch plates than it is to accelerate the car. In lower gears, the shorter ratios make it easier for the car to accelerate and the clutch is not the weak link any more. It will, however, continue to slip more and more.
Also, a chattery clutch is not related to a worn-out and slipping clutch. Chatter typically happens at low rpm during launch and indicates something preventing the clutch from engaging cleanly. However, once all the way engaged, the chatter should go away. My BMW does it on cold damp mornings until I get a few starts to dry it out.
Also, a chattery clutch is not related to a worn-out and slipping clutch. Chatter typically happens at low rpm during launch and indicates something preventing the clutch from engaging cleanly. However, once all the way engaged, the chatter should go away. My BMW does it on cold damp mornings until I get a few starts to dry it out.
