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I was really lazy soaking it all in, browsed through all the dealers, etc, and it took me a few hours to be able to gain online racing access. You have to complete menu book 9. It tasted like Rotella and Sprayway.
Ha did same browse alll dealers, enjoying but driving with controller so much harder then sport, I’m looking for wheels now, $5:40 gas hear and inflation not helping.
Thinking get wheel and worry about PS5 later
 
Just got back and even though it says 110GB on back of GT7 box, my download size on PS5 is 97.095 GB. Pre ordering the launch edition gave me 100,000 credits to start with along with the Toyota Castrol Tom's Supra, Mazda RX Vision GT3 Concept Stealth and the Porsche 917K Living Legend. It was well worth pre-ordering.
 
Couple of hours into the game, it is truely beautiful on PS5. The dynamic time and everything. I only have one problem, is it just me or RWD cars are borderline undriveable ? I’m talking about 300hp cars spinning out with a quarter or half throttle on sports hard ?

Edit: can’t even drive on blue moon oval without spinning.
 
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Couple of hours into the game, it is truely beautiful on PS5. The dynamic time and everything. I only have one problem, is it just me or RWD cars are borderline undriveable ? I’m talking about 300hp cars spinning out with a quarter or half throttle on sports hard ?

Edit: can’t even drive on blue moon oval without spinning.
Are you using Ray tracing mode or Prioritize frame rate? I have tested both display settings for the opening music rally racing event and find that Prioritize frame rate is lighter and ray tracing is darker on my Standard HDTV so i am using Prioritize frame rate.
 
@racingchamp30 I’m using frame rate mode, started with ray tracing, which is only in menus and replay and turned it off because it looked weird, especially with alloy and chrome wheels. I honestly think it looks better without. But the attention to detail is phenomenal on the car models on PS5 on a 4k TV, simply breathtaking.
 
Ha did same browse alll dealers, enjoying but driving with controller so much harder then sport, I’m looking for wheels now, $5:40 gas hear and inflation not helping.
Thinking get wheel and worry about PS5 later
I started the game with the controller not expecting to have to do stuff right away. I figured I'd fire it up, configure everything, and then do that absolute minimum required to get online. So when the Music Rally thing came up I just drove it on the controller and nearly spun at least twice. And I'm about 15 years out from last running much with it. I was about to detail some of the changes, and how the physics have updated making controlling the car more challenging all around than GTS, even with a wheel.

And then the below quoted post popped up as I was typing.

(If you do get a wheel and want some assistance getting up to speed, I would be glad to be of help)*

Couple of hours into the game, it is truely beautiful on PS5. The dynamic time and everything. I only have one problem, is it just me or RWD are borderline undriveable ? I’m talking about 300hp cars spinning out with a quarter or half throttle on sports hard. ?
There are a few things at play. Just to get it out of the way, the physics have changed and the software is less forgiving all around. As well, the input gains have changed, as least with logitech hardware. For example, the max brake force in the game is acheived at only about 70% of pedal stroke, or less. At the same time, the braking physics(or it could be the tyre model, I need more time to tell) have become slightlt more forgiving. So although I look down to find the brake meter well into the "wtf are you doing dummy have you lost your damn mind" range, non-abs seems somewhat easier to drive. And when you do come off the brakes like a lunatic and the rear tries to pass you, it's significantly more recoverable.

However, yes, the overall grip in GT7 feels like it has been reduced compared to the same tyre in GTS. I did a very extensive study on tyre grip in GTS a few months ago comparing real life data from the 86Cup series to controlled laps in GTS(as an update to a similar study a friend did years ago and I can detail that in greater depth another time if folks would like, but I'm already longposting here so...) and the short of it was that something like a top tier 200tw(think Yokohama A052, Bridgestone Re71r) fell in between Comfort Softs and Sports Hards, while a DOT trackday tyre(think 100tw like an NT01) fell slightly above a Sports Hard but not quite to Mediums. A DOT Hoosier was found to be most comparable to a Sports Medium-Sports Softs. And without going into more detail, just about anything north of a Racing Hard/Medium was well into fantasy land inhabited only by cars with 3000lbs of downforce at 50mph and the mugen program your own physics chip.

Now, that is a large part of why I tended to prefer driving on harder tyres, without aids, and even without abs if possible, because my use of the sim is mostly for offseason seat time so I prefer to keep things as close to real as possible. In piloting my ill-fated hardcore shifter series, I found that even though I have plenty of friends on GT that I race with in real life, even they didn't have the stomach to drive something like the Shelby GT350 on Sports Hards with no aids or abs. And they ended up backwards in the A110s and Dinos. In fact, coming to the realisations that very few people are interested in that level of challenge is what made me hop into Iceracing a couple of months ago. And then I found the same thing there! Nobody likes the skatey stuff that you have pedal around the whole lap. But, that's kind of how it is in real life in most cars over 200-250hp on most tracks. I can(and have) spin a Civic in the uphill at Lime Rock with my right foot to the floor on sticky tyres in 90 degree weather. It does happen. I've personally felt the #1 drawback of GTS was while the tyre model punches way above its weight, it was still too forgiving IMO. On the other hand, I've felt something like the cold tyre modelling of Iceracing to be too unrealistic in the other direction. For a while I was feeling like a man without a country. And I have to say, while not the most accurate as possible(the game still needs to be driveable for controllers, etc) I feel like GT7 was a step toward the middle, closing that gap a little bit. I am hopeful that perhaps the updated physics results in a more realistic driving, and racing experience, as car control becomes paramount. Which, is like real life. Invariably, the people fastest out of the box are those with superior car control.

Somewhat funny this topic, as I bit my tongue on the Nurburgring commentary. Personally, I think everyone should spend some time there. You are doing yourself a disservice without it. The Nordschleife is my home track in sim racing. If you ask around, you may find that is a pattern among certain sets.

For a series like Snail, the tyre used for a given car may need to be updated. This series, like most, tends to favour high grip high power cars. That's what most people want to drive. And that is going to be more challenging on the same tyres that we were used to. And for that reason I think it was a great decision to take the month and let things shake out a bit and make assessments.

* Goes for anyone here as well. I am glad to help folks improve.
 
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@Marcus Garvey nice post, I tend to agree on the tires, my sweet spot being sports hards and mediums with street cars. I also think we run street cars with tires that are too grippy.
But regarding GT7 physics as it stands right now, anything RWD is borderline undriveable under 200 hp and absolutely insane over 300 hp. If real life RWD handled like that, I’d be long dead.
 
Question:
In GT7 there’s two graphics modes: ray tracing and prioritize frame rate. I know RT mode locks frame rate at 30fps, but RT isn’t used in-game while racing. And frame rate mode raises the cap to 60fps and only uses RT in a couple areas.

I’ve looked everywhere but can’t find an answer to my specific question. While using RT mode, does the game raise the frame rate cap to 60fps while racing, since it isn’t using RT?

If it does, then I don’t mind using RT mode and having my menus in 30fps so long as the racing is at 60fps. But if the frame rate cap is 30fps globally while in that mode, regardless of what you’re doing, then I’d rather use frame rate mode and have 60fps without RT.
 
@Marcus Garvey nice post, I tend to agree on the tires, my sweet spot being sports hards and mediums with street cars. I also think we run street cars with tires that are too grippy.
But regarding GT7 physics as it stands right now, anything RWD is borderline undriveable under 200 hp and absolutely insane over 300 hp. If real life RWD handled like that, I’d be long dead.
I felt the same way when I drove my beloved A110 at Blands Snatch. I jumped in with my usual Sports Hards, abs and everything off, and pitched it sideways into Paddock Hill. Three times in a row. I ended up switching to Sports Softs just to blow through the menu because I'm lazy and it's all busy work to me. There was certainly a lot of hamfisted brake releasing going on, and I need to reprogram my brain that it's not GTS anymore, but yeah. The 2001 GT3 was crazy too. Not Iceracing crazy, but yeah elbows were feeling it after 50 miles or so. My elbows. That's what happens when you're swinging that wheel. I sympathise.

This discussion has led me to decide to run a few test laps with the same parameters I did with my previous and see where the pieces fall. I'll try and get on it this weekend if I can. I want to get some more seat time before I make any real hypothesis. One of my curiosities has been if the game has implemented a cold tyre mechanic like Assetto and Iceracing. Due to the super short races I think my longest single stint was only a few minutes, 3 laps I think. I am going to take some time and sit down and mimic a real life session and see if things improve, and if so to what degree. The brake input does have me debating whether or not I want to pull my pedals apart and toss a big spacer in there. I'm hesitant, because it's sort of right where I want it for Iceracing, and due to the track list deficiency in GT I'm still going to be sim hopping a bit for the foreseeable future.
 
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So far a bit disappointed with GT7…seems that you will need to have lots of credits to stay competitive, And I thought you would have all your liveries, decals from GTS, but that didn’t seem to happen…

On the positive side, cars feel very good and realistic, you cannot just smash the accelerator and not loose control, you need to apply throttle similar to a real car.

Graphics are great, weather (rain) isn’t as painful as GTS.

Just my 2 cents…
 
So far a bit disappointed with GT7…seems that you will need to have lots of credits to stay competitive, And I thought you would have all your liveries, decals from GTS, but that didn’t seem to happen…

On the positive side, cars feel very good and realistic, you cannot just smash the accelerator and not loose control, you need to apply throttle similar to a real car.

Graphics are great, weather (rain) isn’t as painful as GTS.

Just my 2 cents…
Liveries have to be shared a certain way in GTS in order to be brought over to GT7. Check the thread in the GT7 forums here and it will have details. They will be transferring for a while so you may be able to change the settings in sport on those liveries and get them moved to 7.
 
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I’ve gotten past menu 9 and all but super license.
-It’s gonna take longer than you want.
-Credits aren’t easy to accumulate.
-Will be interesting to see how BoD will have to change some things, not the least of which; car price cap?
-Many subtle and many not so subtle changes.
-Liveries are there if you shared them. Not easy to find, but there. @Phlano099
 
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It's tougher than sport for sure so far. The circuit experience at Northers Isle is that old silver Stingray race car on comfort soft tires. That was the last thing I finished tonight just because I wanted to see the payout for a circuit experience. Took way longer than it should have. Once the rear started to come around, I was done every time and don't you dare touch the apron in the turns.
 
I’ve been doing lots of searching online today, quick ? I’m still little confused,
Leaning towards T300 with load cell pedals $700, fanatec DD with good pedals over $1000,

My ? Is I don’t have laptop or computer or tablet just an I Phone, how can I do updates for wheel and if want to send me an PM to not overload thread im cool with that,

So far with wheel and good pedals and foldable chair im
Right under 1k$ that’s my max budget

I’m enjoying new physics of game but with controller it’s a nightmare and on the grinding

GT7 will be with us for 5 years I’m loving the longer campaign mode and future updates on more events.
 
They have a LOT to do. This game isn't ready yet.
How so? To me this is one of the most fleshed out GTs to date, and undoubtedly they will add plenty of content in the future just as they have with previous titles. Of course it has its issues, as any game does. I think credits are too hard to come by, jump physics in dirt rally are completely broken, and UI can be a bit jumbled at times. But I’m just curious what you think is required for it to be ready.

I’ve been doing lots of searching online today, quick ? I’m still little confused,
Leaning towards T300 with load cell pedals $700, fanatec DD with good pedals over $1000,

My ? Is I don’t have laptop or computer or tablet just an I Phone, how can I do updates for wheel and if want to send me an PM to not overload thread im cool with that,

So far with wheel and good pedals and foldable chair im
Right under 1k$ that’s my max budget

I’m enjoying new physics of game but with controller it’s a nightmare and on the grinding

GT7 will be with us for 5 years I’m loving the longer campaign mode and future updates on more events.
I would suggest any Fanatec wheel base over a Thrustmaster. Fanatec has belt driven wheel bases just like the T300 that perform better, and you would still be under $1k with everything combined. I use the CSL Elite Wheel Base with the load-cell kit, and a GT-Omega stand. Then I just use a chair I bought at Office Depot, total under $1k.

Not sure what to tell ya for firmware updates, other then ask someone you know to borrow their laptop. I don’t know where you are but I’m sure if any one of us happens to be near you, we would be more than happy to help you out.

I don’t have nearly as much experience with using a controller in GT as you do, but is it really that bad? I drove a race with my controller to test out the new feedback and haptics and I loved it. I think they did a great job at communicating changing conditions through the controller.
 
How so? To me this is one of the most fleshed out GTs to date, and undoubtedly they will add plenty of content in the future just as they have with previous titles. Of course it has its issues, as any game does. I think credits are too hard to come by, jump physics in dirt rally are completely broken, and UI can be a bit jumbled at times. But I’m just curious what you think is required for it to be ready.


I would suggest any Fanatec wheel base over a Thrustmaster. Fanatec has belt driven wheel bases just like the T300 that perform better, and you would still be under $1k with everything combined. I use the CSL Elite Wheel Base with the load-cell kit, and a GT-Omega stand. Then I just use a chair I bought at Office Depot, total under $1k.

Not sure what to tell ya for firmware updates, other then ask someone you know to borrow their laptop. I don’t know where you are but I’m sure if any one of us happens to be near you, we would be more than happy to help you out.

I don’t have nearly as much experience with using a controller in GT as you do, but is it really that bad? I drove a race with my controller to test out the new feedback and haptics and I loved it. I think they did a great job at communicating changing conditions through the controller.
I’m on PS4 controller and I’ll look into your suggestion, much appreciated
 
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