Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

[Spec M]

If you use sandpaper on the paint it will take a LOT more than a combination cleaner wax to bring it back to shiny. At a minimum you'd need red compund followed by white compound followed by a glaze.

Thats weird, the same process was used on my Mothers Jeep. In the process of loading a white cabinet into the rear, the rear bumper had a scuff mark that came from laying the cabinet down on the bumper and sliding it into the cargo area. I recall my cousin using an extremely fine grit sand paper with little pressure to remove the mark and then buffed it. As of right now their's no sign or clue of flaw. I had also seen it done before then but can't recall where.., Anyways perhaps the clay bar is the easier route.

 

[-ultraflow-]

Thanks a lot for the help!!!

Good sugestions I think il will work perfectly.

👍

 

[Duke]

I recall my cousin using an extremely fine grit sand paper with little pressure to remove the mark and then buffed it.

For a small area it would be one thing, but I think for a large area like the whole top of the car (which I assume is covered) it would be quite a lot of work to go that route, and I think it would take more celarcoat off than neccessary.

 

[Spec M]

For a small area it would be one thing, but I think for a large area like the whole top of the car (which I assume is covered) it would be quite a lot of work to go that route, and I think it would take more celarcoat off than neccessary.

Yes this was a scuff about an inch in a half long, and a few centimeters wide, definitely a small area but stood out so much because her truck is a dark metallic blue.
But you're right if it was a larger area like majority of a panel, I highly doubt we would've went that same route.

 

[Paulie]

Has anyone ever heard of and used the product XADO on their car? Thoughts, opinions? Might use it for both my engine and gearbox if it's good.

 

[Spencer]

I'd be hesitant to use anything called a "gel" in your engine or trans.

 

[Diego440]

I'd be hesitant to use anything called a "gel" in your engine or trans.

would you prefer "ungüent"?

 

[Spencer]

would you prefer "ungüent"?

I'd prefer just using synthetic oil for the engine and and trans fluid for the transmission. I don't really think this stuff does anything. Sounds like it tries to rebuild the metal or steel in those parts. If that stuff breaks down and gets into the engine, that's a good way to ruin it.

 

[niky]

Once a part is worn, it's worn. No product will be able to rebuild the sharp edges and fine lines of a worn gear.

-

Recoating worn down parts with a gel inside an engine running at over a hundred degrees and between 800-6000 rpms?

That's like saying adding calcium to the water in a fast flowing pressurized system will cure leaks. It might... but you know what else calcium does to pipes?

Best use the best synthetic you can find, and something like GM Synchromesh (have heard nothing but good things about this stuff) for your transmission.

 

[Spencer]

Exactly Niky.

I use Castrol for the oil myself

 

[LSX]

That Mcdonalds will do it too.

There are some things you can put in an old motor to make it run better all around. I used to put in a can of CSL Engine Restore 4 cylinder formula in my 2.3L Ford. I must say, it really smoothed out my engine, could have been in my head, but I really think the motor sounded smoother when I started using it. It had over 150,000 Miles when the odometer stopped working a year before I bought the truck. I could not make it die.

I also used Ford Motocraft Synthetic and seafoamed it once a year. Like I said, it may have been in my head, but with the abuse the truck went through, racing down trails, jumping dirt hills, burnouts, power shifting. The engine purred and the trans never would grind or whine. So unless I was just incredibly lucky, the additives did help.

Rebuilding metal in the engine with a gel does sound a bit off though. The CSL is just a lubricant that seals compression leaks.

 

[niky]

Gasket re-sealant works sometimes... but nothing beats new gaskets.

Seafoam is something many swear by... and cleaning out your engine is a good idea, overall... but just using the proper synth and changing the oil often can do a car good.

We opened mine up a year ago to do a port and polish, and after three years and tons of abuse, the cylinders, cylinder walls and valves looked spotless.

 

[LSX]

Yeah, without a doubt keeping up with the oil is easy, and using quality oil will leave you with a lot less problems and a good running car.

The CSL is not a gasket sealant, it just equalizes the compression, it helps seal the piston rings in an old engine, stopping blow by. However good it is at that I can't say, however my engine overall *felt* better (stronger/smoother) once I started using the CSL.

I do swear by SeaFoam! Stuff is great, and who does not like leaving a cloud of smoke like the just did a top fuel burnout WHILE cleaning the carbon from their engine? !

EDIT: I can answer my own question, my neighbors.


Edit2: After looking in the Oil Bible, take none of my advice on the CSL stuff, I don't think I had any problem with sludge, however it may be best to just not use any additives and just use good oil like Niky said.

"Curing sludge"

"There are no hard and fast rules for curing an engine of sludge buildup. If it's really bad, flushing the engine might be the only cure, but that could also cause even more problems. If flushing the engine results in bits of sludge getting lodged where they can do more damage, you're actually worse off.
It's interesting to note that some race techs have reported sludge buildup in race engines as a result of aftermarket additives being used in conjunction with the regular oil. The chemical composition of the additives isn't as neutral as some companies would lead us to believe, and combined with particular types of oil and high-stress driving, they can cause oil breakdown and sludge to appear. The lesson from them appears to be "don't use additives".

 

[niky]

Well, anecdotal evidence points to some older engines benefitting from sealant... as long as the type of damage is the right kind to induce sealing... but rebuilding these engines is often a safer and more permanent solution. 👍

Seafoam... ye gods... I wish we could get that stuff here. Friends have posted up pics elsewhere, and it looks awesome...

 

[Paulie]

That XADO stuff does use nano-technology though, that's got to count for something right? It was developed by the Russian Space Agency and is used by militaries to improve their vehicle's engine life. Maybe it is legit, just looking at that stuff, but if you guys think so. Just curiously, if I put it in my gearbox and it fails and wrecks my gearbox, would the following rebuild be any different to the gearbox just failing by wear and tear? Because my gearbox probably doesn't have much left in it anyway....

 

[niky]

They've been peddling XADO since before "nanotech" became a buzzword.

In the end... no, nothing can rebuild worn gear teeth. Some products can fill in tiny cracks in gaskets... as the high pressure forces them into the gasket cracks and seals them... but they can also solidify in unwanted places. That's why gasket sealant and some compression restoration products sometimes work, but not all the time.

Nothing can adhere to the correct portion of a worn gear exclusively and fix problems with your gears or synchros... especially considering everything has to be moving around in order to circulate the product.

Just save your money for a new gearbox or a rebuild and switch to GM Synchromesh. If you want the whole nine yards, you can even cryo-treat your entire transmission, but that'll cost a bundle, and I don't know any places that do it in Australia.

 

[Paulie]

Fair enough, thanks for the help.👍

 

[Duke]

Another great transmission lubricant is Redline MTL if you can get it there. It can make an old manual trans feel newer.

 

[niky]

MTL Gotta look for that... I'm currently using MT. Feel the need for something more.

 

[Nicksfix]

Has anyone ever heard of and used the product XADO on their car? Thoughts, opinions? Might use it for both my engine and gearbox if it's good.

Sorry,can't say I have.

A popular product here in the states is Lucas Oil Products. Not sure if it's available Down Under,but I personally know of a bunch of people who swear by it.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Hey car guru dudes, got a question. It's been reccomended to me on the F150 forum I frequent that advancing my timing 2-4 degrees from stock would net a very noticeable gain in power. Would this have any adverse effects on my engine?

 

[Rotary Junkie]

Might make detonation show up a bit under the wrong conditions (high load, low RPM mostly) but that's it. And even then considering what it is (a no-compression straight 6 that's bulletproof) it won't hurt much even if it does.

 

[niky]

Do the forumers also recommend switching to higher octane gas?

You can try it... just listen/feel for knocking or hesitation. Many cars can gain a few ponies from advancing from stock timing, since factory timing is usually quite conservative... but you have to be aware of how far you can advance before detonation occurs.

As per what Rotary Junkie says... might also make it show up in exceptionally hot conditions, too.

 

[mustangGT90210]

I have yet to get this thing into a high load condition

Sounds like I'll have to give it a shot. You can run 20 degrees timing thru these 300's and they'll run like crap, but still not ping

 

[Thatman]

Well thank you all that help me with the Buick Problem It did give me an insight of what to do next though, a couple days ago, I jump started it AMAZINGLY, ran it fine for a good 20 minutes, gave it some petrol then it started again...However its been about 3 days since then and now when trying it again it doesnt turn over, look at the link please. THEN Of course My RX7 wanted to act up . Check the video to see what happens....Btw I got it started by a jump then if I shut it off literally NOTHING comes on. Seems to be cause by my ABS somehow .... http://www.youtube.com/user/JFSX#p/a/u/0/0F-Vs-uE-14

 

[homeforsummer]

Someone here might be able to advise me...

As some of you may know, a taxi reversed into me a while ago and broke the front numberplate mounting bracket, which was a little annoying. Anyway, it appears the bracket is better attached to the car than I thought. I removed the numberplate itself today as I was going to stick it on with some adhesive strips and do away with the bracket altogether, but when I tried to remove the bracket it appears to be attached with screws via some rawl-plug-type things:

(Left-hand screw, visible above and to the right of my finger)

(Right hand screw)

(Front of the left-hand screw)

I tried removing the screws but neither "righty-tighty" nor "lefty-loosey" seemed to make a blind bit of difference. As you can see in the photos I tried pulling the bracket away from the bumper but all it does is tries to take the bumper with it, and I don't particularly want to use brute force and rip half the plastic bumper away...

Any clues, short of removing the whole bumper and attacking it from the back?...

 

[TheCracker]

I think that's what you'll have to do. Those plugs will need to be unclipped from the reverse side. Could you jack up the front and crawl under instead of removing the whole bumper?

 

[niky]

+1. Those plastic fasteners are probably more snap-on than screw on... I've had my fair share of "duh" moments with those trying to twirl them off before realizing that prying them up with a screwdriver was much faster... though not non-destructive.

 

[mustangGT90210]

You'll probably need new ones after taking my suggestion.

They seem to me like plastic fasteners. Stuff them in the hole, and they are ridged so they don't come back out easy. Twirling them doesn't make a world of difference. Just pop the head of it up a little and then you can take pliers or something to them and pull them right out.

This sounds destructive, but it's not. My whole radiator cover is held on by these (factory, not rednecked)

 

[homeforsummer]

I've just had a thought, actually - would taking a hand-saw to it work? Saw away the plastic, pop it off from around the screw (or even just saw through the screw as well) and then just push the other bits out the other side of the bumper?

@ Cracker - I don't think jacking it up and reaching round would be possible. The bumper on the MX5 is a very convex shape and the numberplate bracket is right on the apex, short of removing the bumper I reckon it'd be virtually impossible to get to and certainly pretty difficult to work on if I could reach around the back.