Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

Okay, then, figured you knew what you were doing. (Truth be told, I've never known it to get cold enough to the point where tranny fluid would gel...why did I even come up with that idea?)

To be fair, the gearbox does get stiffer in cold weather anyway and the reason I didn't suspect a clutch system problem earlier was because it's been as low as minus 10 C recently which is abnormally cold for here, and I just assumed it was just an oil viscosity problem. But when the 'box began misbehaving the other day at +4C I knew it wasn't the cold. And then yesterday, it wouldn't move.

It needs a service anyway so I'll coincide the two. It'll probably feel like a new car after all that. Relatively unsophisticated cars respond brilliantly to new filters and plugs, always did wonders for the Fiesta.
 
I would be positively shocked if Honda designed your car with only 3 mm of clearance between the outside of the caliper and inside of the wheel spokes.

But anything can happen when you start looking at aftermarket rims. And ET48 is quite 'shallow'. Though I'd have to say that'd be a pretty shoddily designed wheel if the spokes don't clear a factory caliper at that offset.


M

All things go out the window when you talk aftermarket... I've had rims that barely cleared the (tiny) calipers of my previous car... despite being 1" bigger than the stock fitment. I've also seen big dish rims that barely clear (and sometimes don't) the brakes on Evos and STIs. It's all in the style... where you have rims built for front-or-four wheel drive but with the "deep dish" look that people like... so the spokes pull back into the wheel at some point... unlucky for you if that point is the point where your brake caliper sticks out.
 
I was wondering, is it illegal to modify your front light clusters? Like if you paint the inner housing from crome to black or if you place something within the cluster that shouldnt be there like angel eye ring kits.

As long as the light immited from the housing doesnt change in intensity or direction would it be ok?

Robin.
 
I was wondering, is it illegal to modify your front light clusters? Like if you paint the inner housing from crome to black or if you place something within the cluster that shouldnt be there like angel eye ring kits.

As long as the light immited from the housing doesnt change in intensity or direction would it be ok?

Robin.

As far as I know it's legal, and if not legal then it's something that nobody will call you on anyway.
 
I was wondering, is it illegal to modify your front light clusters? Like if you paint the inner housing from crome to black or if you place something within the cluster that shouldnt be there like angel eye ring kits.

As long as the light immited from the housing doesnt change in intensity or direction would it be ok?

Robin.
In the US, it's perfectly fine, as far as I know. What can be illega for usl is if the headlamp colors becomes anything but a white-ish blue, or amber.
 
Thanks for the replies guys 👍, im pretty sure the laws would be the same here in the UK as long as the lights are white. With all these new superbright LED running lights on Audi's and Merc's I dont think they could really do me for anything...

Robin.
 
I was wondering, is it illegal to modify your front light clusters? Like if you paint the inner housing from crome to black or if you place something within the cluster that shouldnt be there like angel eye ring kits.

As long as the light immited from the housing doesnt change in intensity or direction would it be ok?

Robin.

Neither are illegal. People paint the chrome a different colour all the time (hell, I've seen an Audi at a car show where the chrome had been covered with a tartan pattern...) and there are hundreds of BMWs going about where people have fitted aftermarket angel eyes to them. One of my mates has done just that to his 3-Series.
 
I had angel eyes with a very slight green tint on the Mini for a year or so. The MOT brought them up as an advisory, but they were otherwise fine. I got pulled over whilst I had them in (didn't realise I had a rear light bulb blown) and the policeman didn't mention them then either.

I got rid of them eventually because they looked daft, both on and off.
 
Okay, so in retrospect...

But technically this doesn't have an impact on the car being able to move unless you do it right and all you need to get is one wrench, a ratchet, possibly an extension, and a socket. :P

Unless of course the shop decides to do the labor for something like five pence in which case it doesn't matter :lol:

...I might take your advice and do it all myself.

Labour is looking to be about £60 just for the slave cylinder to be changed. The garage I asked were cheeky enough to quote me £54 for a £15 part, too. Wheras I've worked out I can get a trolley jack, some axle stands and the necessary part for about £85 - which is the same as £60 labour and £15 for the part. And guess what I have in my boot? A tool kit. I can spend another £6 on a one-man bleeding kit for doing the fluid afterwards and another few quid on bits to clean up the area.

Essentially, the car is going nowhere at the moment and I can manage on foot/on public transport, so what the hell, I may as well give this fixing lark a go.

And at the end of the day, if I buy a bunch of stuff then I can use it again. And if I don't use it again, I can sell it and get some of my money back.

I'd like to ask people a question though:

I can get a stainless steel braided clutch line from the same website I'm looking at all the other bits on for £25. Worth it? It goes between the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Offers benefits, yadda yadda. Is it worth doing at the same time as the slave cylinder? The car is going to be an ongoing project of sorts and I'll be improving/upgrading various bits over the next few years, so should I start with small stuff too?
 
I wouldn't see a problem with it, so long as it's good quality SS clutch line.

Cant' really tell much from the pic, so, I dunno. seems okay. Guess I'll leave it to the more knowledgeable members on that. I don't see what's wrong with regular clutch hose, though. I don't think a good-quality clutch/brake line will actually expand under use any more than that would.
 
Quick question:

Safe to leave a vehicle on axle stands for extended periods of time or not?

The MX5 is up on stands (at the front) at the moment as I've been cleaning the area around the slave cylinder so I can replace it soon. It's completely secure on the stands.

Do vehicles object to being left on the stands? I'll likely leave it on them overnight if not, and then replace the unit tomorrow as the light is already fading today and I'm going out in the not too distant future.

It just saves me the bother of jacking it up again tomorrow.

Incidentally, my car is only just high enough to get a trolley jack beneath as low as it will go. I don't know whether all MX5s are like that or whether mine has been subtley lowered at some point but either way it was a close thing.
 
Yeah, jackstands are meant be used for long periods of time. As long as they are on solid points on the body, then the car will be fine.
 
Braided lines are good for track... but you need to back it up with other modifications. Better pads, for one... better fluid... are you going to do the master cylinder reinforcement mod? Not entirely familiar with it, but some owners say that you can put a backing plate (or something...) to keep it from flexing against the firewall, for a firmer pedal feel.

I've driven a Miata with Wilwood brakes, braided lines and better pads. Pedal still felt like a block of wood. Stopped okay, though. :lol:
 
Yeah, jackstands are meant be used for long periods of time. As long as they are on solid points on the body, then the car will be fine.

Thanks for the advice, I took it down off the stands anyway (I was in a rush and didn't want to chance it). I know how to put it safely back up onto the stands anyway so it won't take too long tomorrow!

Braided lines are good for track... but you need to back it up with other modifications. Better pads, for one... better fluid... are you going to do the master cylinder reinforcement mod? Not entirely familiar with it, but some owners say that you can put a backing plate (or something...) to keep it from flexing against the firewall, for a firmer pedal feel.

I've driven a Miata with Wilwood brakes, braided lines and better pads. Pedal still felt like a block of wood. Stopped okay, though. :lol:

The braided lines were for the clutch, not the brakes. I asked on the owners' club forum and they recommended against it for the clutch - most people reckoned no difference. I know they're supposed to be fairly good for the brakes though.
 
Can someone help me with some terminology. The oil crank case is the place you put the motor oil? correct? I am about to put a 1/3 of seafoam into the valve cover ( were the motor oil cap is located) and I am hoping that it can clean out my engine by putting some of it in it. Also in my fuel tank.

I always heard good things about it though I have been wondering about the bad.
something like this
 
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Yeah, jackstands are meant be used for long periods of time. As long as they are on solid points on the body, then the car will be fine.

I realize it's moot at this point, but I want to clarify that a little:

Jackstands on solid lift points are fine as long as the car is jacked symmetrically and not stressed. I've seen a car crack the windshield when left on jackstands overnight with one corner higher than the other.

Also, yes, the oil pan or sump is at the bottom of the crankcase and is where the oil sits in the engine, though oil is usually added into the valve cover at the top end. I've never used seafoam, but if they tell you to add it where you add engine oil, I would do that.
 
Jackstands on solid lift points are fine as long as the car is jacked symmetrically and not stressed. I've seen a car crack the windshield when left on jackstands overnight with one corner higher than the other.

Thanks for the clarification, Duke 👍 I've not been leaving it on the stands, if only because it only takes five minutes to put it back up on the stands when required anyway.

Incidentally, I've made little progress. The union nut between the slave and the pipe won't budge even after a few soakings of WD40, there's not much clearance to get any leverage on it and I don't want to round it off by using my normal spanner and having it slip so I've bought a flare nut spanner that should arrive in the next day or so. Couldn't find one in the local Halfords so it was an online job, only a few quid. And if that doesn't work, then it's out with the mole grips...
 
nk4e, that came from a Honda forum... I wouldn't believe them too much. I've never used seafoam in that way, but will as soon as I get the money. A lot of guys swear by it
 
nk4e, that came from a Honda forum... I wouldn't believe them too much. I've never used seafoam in that way, but will as soon as I get the money. A lot of guys swear by it
I found a DIY on a Nissan forum; So I am going to follow it when I get my oil filter.
 
The past week my gears have felt really rough. As I change gears I can feel a 'bump' of resistance before it goes all the way into gear. When I took off from the lights today the car didn't go into 1st, I had to try 3 times before it went in. Also when Im driving and let go of the accelerator the car feels a little rough decelerating and I can feel more vibration in the gear stick than I normally did.
Im not sure if its the cold weather but the gearbox might be playing up : ( Would changing the gearbox oil help the problem or could it be something more mechanically serious i.e. expensive.
My friend had a Polo and his gearbox was feeling rough and couldnt get straight into gear occasionally but he left it and the problem seemed to sort itself out and didnt come back....
 
What you're describing there Rick is very similar to what I was experiencing with my Mazda. I thought it was the cold too, but it turned out to be due to running out of clutch fluid because the slave cylinder was knackered. Your slave may be okay but I'd check your clutch fluid level, and check the ground below your car to see if there's a puddle.
 
Hmm my clutch pedal has been making sqeaking noises when I press down.... Ill have a look at the levels 👍

The squeak is another sign that the slave is on it's way out on my MX5. It's all beginning to sound quite familiar.
 
How come? Manual transmissions use gear lube/oil in them (same stuff that's used in differentials).

Or are you wondering why he would need to flush the transmission?
 
The latter yes. Unless something grenaded itself there should be no reason for it... And if something's gone boom then a flush isn't going to solve it. Luckily it sounds like the slave.
 

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