Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

[mustangGT90210]

Greaaaatttttttttttt...

I hope thats not going to be an issue with the amp/sub I wanna add down the road.

 

[Jim Prower]

Well, dont' get all up into a tizzy, here. main thing here is to straighten out the wiring, You can add a higher-amp fuse to that circuit, but if your dome-light wiring has a short, you may have problems. Besides, with the amp/sub, you'll probably put that on it's own separate circuit, so it won't cause a whole lot of havoc with that.

 

[SubaruWrXSt!]

Hello there! Well, as you can see by my avatar you can see that I'm a subaru dude(never owned a subaru(yet)) lol, but last night while I was going to bed I was think of a V engine animation in my head, and how the crankshaft connects to the flywheel clutch etc etc. But then, I was trying to imagine the subaru flat 4 and noticed that the crankshaft was perpendicular to the entire car, that's my problem lol kinda silly but I don't know how the crankshaft of this car connects to the clutch or anything. I tried looking on google for diagrams but found nothing, any help is appreciated, thanks.=)

 

[///M-Spec]

Hello there! Well, as you can see by my avatar you can see that I'm a subaru dude(never owned a subaru(yet)) lol, but last night while I was going to bed I was think of a V engine animation in my head, and how the crankshaft connects to the flywheel clutch etc etc. But then, I was trying to imagine the subaru flat 4 and noticed that the crankshaft was perpendicular to the entire car, that's my problem lol kinda silly but I don't know how the crankshaft of this car connects to the clutch or anything. I tried looking on google for diagrams but found nothing, any help is appreciated, thanks.=)

Take a look here: http://www.subaru-global.com/awd_subaru_boxer.html

The engine in a WRX is mounted longitudinally (north-south), meaning the crankshaft runs in series with the input shaft of the transaxle.


M

 

[SubaruWrXSt!]

Take a look here: http://www.subaru-global.com/awd_subaru_boxer.html

The engine in a WRX is mounted longitudinally (north-south), meaning the crankshaft runs in series with the input shaft of the transaxle.


M

Haha thank you, I had to get it off my chest.

 

[McLaren]

Anyone able to suggest to me a good tire size for the following wheel size?
Front: 18x7.5, +48
Rear: 18x8.5, +46

Need something that won't rub, either.

 

[///M-Spec]

What is the original factory tire size? You should make an attempt at preserving the original rolling diameter. If not, you end up changing the effective gearing on the car and also screw up your speedometer reading.


M

 

[MatskiMonk]

Could have a point. Don't have anything convenient to jump with at the moment, though, and with a subzero windchill, I don't want to be out there too long. I'll try when Dad gets home with his truck.

EDIT:

um...this. Is embarrassing.

Had the dumb thing in "reverse." well, good to know the ignition lockout works.

HA HA LMFAO,

Oh man, I've been there, I AM laughing with you!

 

[Jetboy.]

Crap, wrong car thread.

 

[McLaren]

What is the original factory tire size? You should make an attempt at preserving the original rolling diameter. If not, you end up changing the effective gearing on the car and also screw up your speedometer reading.


M

The original tires are Bridgestones, 235/45/R17. Not positive on what the 18" A-Specs run.

 

[///M-Spec]

I presume this is for the TL.

I would go with a 225/40 for the 7.5s and a 245/40 for the 8.5s. It should be easy to find tires in those sizes, they are popular sizes.

You could easily slap a 255/35 on the 8.5s but you might run into rubbing issues on the rear fenders. And 35 series rubber rides like crap.

A staggered setup like this will make the car understeer even more. Are you sure that's what you want?

No idea if there will be fender or strut clearance issues without knowing the stock ET on the original wheels. What is the offset on the stockers? Are you using spacers?

Are you lowered or stock ride height?


M

 

[Duke]

A staggered setup like this will make the car understeer even more. Are you sure that's what you want?

My thoughts exactly. I just can't see a staggered setup on an AWD or FWD car, since understeer is the enemy.

In fact, on my old ACR, I ran one series narrower tires at the back on non-staggered wheels. Made for perfect rotation.

 

[mustangGT90210]

That's a good tidbit right there... I'll remember to try that when I eventually end up in something FWD 👍

 

[McLaren]

I presume this is for the TL.

I would go with a 225/40 for the 7.5s and a 245/40 for the 8.5s. It should be easy to find tires in those sizes, they are popular sizes.

You could easily slap a 255/35 on the 8.5s but you might run into rubbing issues on the rear fenders. And 35 series rubber rides like crap.

A staggered setup like this will make the car understeer even more. Are you sure that's what you want?

No idea if there will be fender or strut clearance issues without knowing the stock ET on the original wheels. What is the offset on the stockers? Are you using spacers?

Are you lowered or stock ride height?


M

Those the sizes I was thinking as well, though I wouldn't mind getting as much meat as possible without fender rolling. 245 probably as close as I could get.

The stock offset is +45, with no spacers. Car isn't lowered, but it will be shortly around an inch.

 

[///M-Spec]

7 mm less clearance on the inside and 5 mm less against the fender for the rears.

Sounds like it would work, but would be close with a drop. I don't know how much room there is in the wheel well on a TL though. It might be fine just driving around, but you may rub with the suspension compressed, like over speed humps, hitting bumps or when hooning around.

I would check with a TL forum before you buy anything.

You could roll your fenders with a fender roller. But your TL is leased, isn't it?

Let me state for the record that I don't think this set up is the right way to go. Your car, though.


M

 

[McLaren]

7 mm less clearance on the inside and 5 mm less against the fender for the rears.

Sounds like it would work, but would be close with a drop. I don't know how much room there is in the wheel well on a TL though. It might be fine just driving around, but you may rub with the suspension compressed, like over speed humps, hitting bumps or when hooning around.

The wheel well isn't 350Z large, but there is quite a bit of room to play with. I'll try to see if there's a specific figure.

I would check with a TL forum before you buy anything.

Been doing that as well. However, other folks are more concerned that the front wheels won't clear the Brembos.

You could roll your fenders with a fender roller. But your TL is leased, isn't it?

Let me state for the record that I don't think this set up is the right way to go. Your car, though.
M

In 10 months, that will change. Right now, they're asking for too much money to buy out.

 

[///M-Spec]

Fronts won't clear the Brembos? Were the Brembos on the car with the stock 17" wheels?


M

 

[McLaren]

Fronts won't clear the Brembos? Were the Brembos on the car with the stock 17" wheels?


M

Yes. But the offset is what may cause issues.

 

[homeforsummer]

Danger Mouse has a problem - I can't engage any gears.

A couple of time recently the gearbox has been abnormally stiff - to the point where it requires a proper, deliberate, hefty shove to push it into a gear. It's also struggled to engage a gear at a standstill before.

Yesterday, I tried to go to work, and I could get absolutely nothing, including reverse.

I've been narrowing down the possibilities:

- It can't be the linkage itself and I don't think it's the box itself. This is because, with the engine off, it slips into gears as easily as it should and makes a nice clack so the cogs are obviously swapping no problems.
- My next thought was the clutch had gone. This would explain it being very difficult to shift (clutch not fully engaging/disengaging so the baulk rings are reluctant to let it slip between one gear and the next). It would also explain the very light pedal yesterday.
- However, it wouldn't explain why I've not felt any slipping or juddering. The normal test, pulling away in high gears, or giving it load in higher gears going up hills, hasn't revealed anything recently.
- My final thought would be the slave cylinder. I could well be out of fluid (I haven't checked the levels yet - the weather is awful outside). This might explain the drips I've seen recently under my car, it would certainly explain the light pedal, and would explain why I've not actually felt any clutch slip.

Am I along the right lines? I'd certainly prefer the cylinder to have gone because a clutch change will be expensive, wheras a slave cylinder costs about £15 and doesn't involve much effort to change...

 

[niky]

It certainly doesn't sound like a clutch problem. I'd check the fluids first before assuming anything... but I gather you're right.

 

[homeforsummer]

It certainly doesn't sound like a clutch problem. I'd check the fluids first before assuming anything... but I gather you're right.

Yeah, upon further inspection it's almost certainly the slave cylinder. There's a little puddle underneath the car right below it. Luckily, it shouldn't cost too much to have fixed. The part is roughly £15 and it looks fairly accessible too through the driver side front wheelarch. I'll call the AA when I next get a chance and get a tow to somewhere that can replace it.

 

[///M-Spec]

Yes. But the offset is what may cause issues.

I would be positively shocked if Honda designed your car with only 3 mm of clearance between the outside of the caliper and inside of the wheel spokes.

But anything can happen when you start looking at aftermarket rims. And ET48 is quite 'shallow'. Though I'd have to say that'd be a pretty shoddily designed wheel if the spokes don't clear a factory caliper at that offset.


M

 

[Rotary Junkie]

Yeah, upon further inspection it's almost certainly the slave cylinder. There's a little puddle underneath the car right below it. Luckily, it shouldn't cost too much to have fixed. The part is roughly £15 and it looks fairly accessible too through the driver side front wheelarch. I'll call the AA when I next get a chance and get a tow to somewhere that can replace it.

Sure you don't want to do it yourself?

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/827.aspx

 

[homeforsummer]

Sure you don't want to do it yourself?

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/827.aspx

I had a look at that and actually considered it, but I don't have any of the tools I'd need to do the job I'm not at a level of mechanical ability where I'm confident enough to fanny about with jobs that have an impact on the car being able to... y'know, move.

A tow from the AA should theoretically be free as I'm a member (by the way, that's the UK's Automobile Association, not Alcoholics Anonymous...), and I've emailed a garage I trust to ask them a breakdown of the cost. If they over-quote me for the part, then I'll order it in myself and just get them to fit it. The car really needs servicing anyway so I'll have that done at the same time to save me some time, money and effort.

Also considering getting the engine bay fully valeted. It's filthy, and a full valet should also reveal any other leaks if such things exist.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

I had a look at that and actually considered it, but I don't have any of the tools I'd need to do the job I'm not at a level of mechanical ability where I'm confident enough to fanny about with jobs that have an impact on the car being able to... y'know, move.

But technically this doesn't have an impact on the car being able to move unless you do it right and all you need to get is one wrench, a ratchet, possibly an extension, and a socket.

Unless of course the shop decides to do the labor for something like five pence in which case it doesn't matter

 

[Jim Prower]

HFS, the main thing you said is that it's hard to move the stick around. Are you saying that the actual shifter is frozen, or that it's just hard to get one of the synchros engaged?

 

[homeforsummer]

HFS, the main thing you said is that it's hard to move the stick around. Are you saying that the actual shifter is frozen, or that it's just hard to get one of the synchros engaged?

The shifter itself moves fine, provided the engine is off. Every gear can be engaged. When the engine is on, not a single gear is available and it's clearly a clutch-related fault - and the puddle underneath the slave cylinder is a bit of a giveaway as to the source of the problem!

R_J - the actual process of changing it looks simple enough, but I just think that my pride and joy probably isn't the best place to start faffing with things like that One day I'll find myself a cheap beater and take it entirely to bits and get clued up on all that sort of stuff, but until then I'd rather let a shop I trust do the work...

 

[Rotary Junkie]

HFS, the main thing you said is that it's hard to move the stick around. Are you saying that the actual shifter is frozen, or that it's just hard to get one of the synchros engaged?

Hard to engage gears (well, impossible now) with the engine running, fine when it's not.

 

[McLaren]

I would be positively shocked if Honda designed your car with only 3 mm of clearance between the outside of the caliper and inside of the wheel spokes.

But anything can happen when you start looking at aftermarket rims. And ET48 is quite 'shallow'. Though I'd have to say that'd be a pretty shoddily designed wheel if the spokes don't clear a factory caliper at that offset.


M

I don't know. I'd be a little surprised too unless Honda designed the wheel with 45+ offset for that reason.

Either way, guy hasn't contacted me with a test fitment, so it may just be kit, drop & done for this point.

 

[Jim Prower]

The shifter itself moves fine, provided the engine is off. Every gear can be engaged. When the engine is on, not a single gear is available and it's clearly a clutch-related fault - and the puddle underneath the slave cylinder is a bit of a giveaway as to the source of the problem!

Okay, then, figured you knew what you were doing. (Truth be told, I've never known it to get cold enough to the point where tranny fluid would gel...why did I even come up with that idea?)