Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions
- Thread starter nd 4 holden spd
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Danoff
Premium
- 34,110
- Mile High City
What about this stuff?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XD62/?tag=gtplanet-20
BTW - I'm selling this car.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XD62/?tag=gtplanet-20
BTW - I'm selling this car.
- 5,768
- Anoka, MN
You don't have to take it off, just tape off around it and cover the rest of the side with a couple old sheets.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
I wouldn't recommend taking it off, you'd have to take the door panel off and get it out from the inside pretty much. They aren't meant to come off pretty easily. I will say though, if you do tape it up, instead of trying to simply tape along the edge, see if you can get a piece of paper to actually slide under the piece itself. It makes a much more clean result when you're done.
Keef
Premium
- 25,185
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
You have to take it off, but this guy did. I would. I'm in the process of finding instructions on how to take it off since I never got around to it on my car.
This article has some simple instructions on an older Civic to remove and replace the moldings with new ones. It avoids taking the door panels off, but potentially leaves plastic clips inside the door that may or may not fall out easily. Apparently new moldings cost about $50 per piece
The relay makes a buzzing sound? Maybe you should replace the relay instead of taking the computer apart...
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Eric.
Premium
- 8,515
- GTP_Eric
- Ebiggs
I think I know the answer you're all going to give me, but here it goes.
I'm thinking about lowering my Civic using Eibach Sportline springs. Its a 1.4" drop front and rear. Eibach also claims that they are designed to be used with the stock shocks. I don't plan on replacing shocks right now as I can't afford both, however I might get them next year. A friend of mine is running Tein springs on his S2000 with stock shocks for the last 30k miles (and the S2000 has 100k+ on it) and he has no shock issues. Should I be relatively okay? I'm aware that the stock shocks will wear out somewhat faster, but most of my driving is done on pretty fair roads. A lot of guys over at 8thCivic are running this setup and seem to be fine.
Thoughts?
I'm thinking about lowering my Civic using Eibach Sportline springs. Its a 1.4" drop front and rear. Eibach also claims that they are designed to be used with the stock shocks. I don't plan on replacing shocks right now as I can't afford both, however I might get them next year. A friend of mine is running Tein springs on his S2000 with stock shocks for the last 30k miles (and the S2000 has 100k+ on it) and he has no shock issues. Should I be relatively okay? I'm aware that the stock shocks will wear out somewhat faster, but most of my driving is done on pretty fair roads. A lot of guys over at 8thCivic are running this setup and seem to be fine.
Thoughts?
- 23,800
- Philippines
Well, you've already answered your question... the extra wear on the stock shocks will depend a lot on the road conditions you'll be seeing... so if you're gentle and drive on mostly smooth roads, you should be okay.
Personally, stock shocks + lowering springs = klumpf klumpf... but if you're willing to put up with it, go ahead.
Personally, stock shocks + lowering springs = klumpf klumpf... but if you're willing to put up with it, go ahead.
already swapped it. Even took the old one apart and that looked good.
Eric.
Premium
- 8,515
- GTP_Eric
- Ebiggs
I assume you're meaning blown shocks. So far guys have like 15k+ miles and no issues doing this. I don't think the drop is enough to be a big problem (these are nearly the most mild drop you can do), and the springs are like 20lb/40lb stiffer front/rear.
I think I'll be going through with it though.
- 23,800
- Philippines
Nah... I meant the ride. I don't like the ride on lowering springs with stock shocks, but it's dependent on how stiff the springs are. If some guys are making them last that long, they're probably not overpowering the stock shocks, so it should be okay.
Good luck! Pics please.
Good luck! Pics please.
Eric.
Premium
- 8,515
- GTP_Eric
- Ebiggs
I'm really waffleing back and forth on it right now. I think I've actually got enough money to get some shocks, but I'm having trouble finding many for my car. Coilovers are more common. I really want to end up with Eibach Sportlines and Koni Yellows, but that isn't possible right now with the Koni's being at least $600 (and I'd need to pay to get the modified strut mounts as well, I'm not cutting mine up). Skunk2s are $370 for the full set, but I've heard they don't last very long (seems typical Skunk2 quality for some things). Skunk2 Pro-S coilovers are just about $700. I'm looking at approximately $200 for the Eibachs, and $100 or so for the install. Any suggestions? Keep in mind its a daily driven car that may eventually see a few autocross events.
- 23,800
- Philippines
Can't really help you there... not familiar with the sets available for your car (I'm riding on Tokico, and the only coilovers I can get locally are Tein).
Coil-overs are overkill for street use, but are indispensable on track. A good set should give you near infinite adjustability, and height adjustability to allow you to balance your car properly for track.
On the other hand, some of us are of the mindset that track time is fun... in other words, we show up, check our tire pressures, drive the tires bald, and go home. Less time under the car fiddling with things means more time on the track...
Coil-overs are overkill for street use, but are indispensable on track. A good set should give you near infinite adjustability, and height adjustability to allow you to balance your car properly for track.
On the other hand, some of us are of the mindset that track time is fun... in other words, we show up, check our tire pressures, drive the tires bald, and go home. Less time under the car fiddling with things means more time on the track...
- 8,480
- P_Balance
Honestly I've still have yet to drive or ride in a car on a shock/spring combo that felt as good as a decent set of coilovers. My personal opinion is that springs are a waste of money unless you've got another car reserved specifically for track use, and the current one is a daily beater and you just want to improve the looks slightly. Even if the car isn't going to be tracked, if you're willing to put money into it, the pleasure to drive on a proper set of coilovers every day is still worth the money.
- 7,666
I'd probably go with coilovers if you've got the money. I want to lower my car a touch and what's really stopping me is the price of coilovers, even though lower springs are a lot cheaper.
Also, I'm shipping the GTI out to Michigan in a couple weeks, so I figure I should start researching. Does anybody have any suggestions for companies to look at? Also, is there any benefit to shipping to a bigger place like Chicago and driving to Holland or should I just get it sent to Grand Rapids?
Also, I'm shipping the GTI out to Michigan in a couple weeks, so I figure I should start researching. Does anybody have any suggestions for companies to look at? Also, is there any benefit to shipping to a bigger place like Chicago and driving to Holland or should I just get it sent to Grand Rapids?
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
If you're going to ship it to a bigger place I'd go with Detroit being it's closer. Or just go for a road trip. 
As for advantages... It *might* save you money.
As for advantages... It *might* save you money.
- 1,376
- GTP_LSX
Guys I really need some input.
My grilfriend has a Chevy Cavalier, it's an '03. Her low beam's went out the other night, so she was using the high beams at night until I could look at it this weekend, Last night we were running to the store and the high beams went out as well. The drivers side front blinker went out too.
It's not the fuses in fuse box inside the car, I didn't get to check any of the fuses under the hood though. Could it be a ballast or a resistor? Why would it lose the low power and later on, the high beams. It does not seem like a bulb problem. My only other guess it that it could be with a switch somewhere. When the low beams first went out, I clicked the headlight bar a few times and they came back on, for a short time anyway.
Any ideas before we have to throw money at a service center? It would be greatly appreciated!
My grilfriend has a Chevy Cavalier, it's an '03. Her low beam's went out the other night, so she was using the high beams at night until I could look at it this weekend, Last night we were running to the store and the high beams went out as well. The drivers side front blinker went out too.
It's not the fuses in fuse box inside the car, I didn't get to check any of the fuses under the hood though. Could it be a ballast or a resistor? Why would it lose the low power and later on, the high beams. It does not seem like a bulb problem. My only other guess it that it could be with a switch somewhere. When the low beams first went out, I clicked the headlight bar a few times and they came back on, for a short time anyway.
Any ideas before we have to throw money at a service center? It would be greatly appreciated!
- 10,620
- gtp_jimprower
Have you taken out the bulbs and looked at them? Honestly, I think the simplest solution's the best here...CHANGE THE HEADLIGHT BULBS! What you described sounds a typical headlight burnout. If you don't believe me, take the bulb out and look for any black marks on the glass, and check the filament. That's a little coil of wire which makes the lights turn on...usually they're between two posts, and if the light's burnt out, the filament will be lying on the bottom of the glass or hanging off one of the posts...but this isn't always the case, which is why you should change them with brand new bulbs no matter what!
The reason her high beams went out (and I'm sure everyone coming at her REALLY appreciated that) was that they're designed to run hotter and for shorter periods of time. They won't last as long if you leave them on full bore all the time. And people get really pissed at you if you do that. Not to mention, it's illegal and dangerous to blind oncoming traffic! As well, the high-beam filament can get damaged when the low-beam lamps go out, as some remnants can sometimes short out the high-beam filament. And, sometimes the low-beam filament isn't entirely dead when the lights go out, and they can flash one more time just before they give up the ghost for good.
Now, if you'd said that you had just changed the bulbs and this happened, I'd say that your assumption of a resistor or ballast might be right. But don't go assuming worst-case scenario when it could be as cheap as a trip to your local AutoZone for some new Sylvanias!
But, hey, if you wanna take it to your mechanic, I'm sure he'll love to check the resistors...and then change the bulbs anyway! Ballasts and resistors are usually pretty rugged, especially resistors, which are coils of high-resistance wire in a ceramic casing. If you've actually burned out one of those, that might be a sign you have other problems, like a short. But, yeah, this is a case where you do the cheap fix first, and THEN do the expensive fix if it doesn't work! Those are good cases!
The reason her high beams went out (and I'm sure everyone coming at her REALLY appreciated that) was that they're designed to run hotter and for shorter periods of time. They won't last as long if you leave them on full bore all the time. And people get really pissed at you if you do that. Not to mention, it's illegal and dangerous to blind oncoming traffic! As well, the high-beam filament can get damaged when the low-beam lamps go out, as some remnants can sometimes short out the high-beam filament. And, sometimes the low-beam filament isn't entirely dead when the lights go out, and they can flash one more time just before they give up the ghost for good.
Now, if you'd said that you had just changed the bulbs and this happened, I'd say that your assumption of a resistor or ballast might be right. But don't go assuming worst-case scenario when it could be as cheap as a trip to your local AutoZone for some new Sylvanias!
But, hey, if you wanna take it to your mechanic, I'm sure he'll love to check the resistors...and then change the bulbs anyway! Ballasts and resistors are usually pretty rugged, especially resistors, which are coils of high-resistance wire in a ceramic casing. If you've actually burned out one of those, that might be a sign you have other problems, like a short. But, yeah, this is a case where you do the cheap fix first, and THEN do the expensive fix if it doesn't work! Those are good cases!
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- 1,376
- GTP_LSX
Thanks Jim, I'm going to check the bulbs, but they were just replaced a few months ago, in any case, I'll be in that area, so I'll check 'em out.
I'm thinking it could have something to do with the headlight selector stalk now. Now that I think about it, the car would go click-click-click-click on start up, it was coming from somewhere in the drivers area/wheel. I've also found that it's a common problem with these cars. But I'm going to check through things first, luckily though, Advance has the part in stock, so if it should be the issue, it can be replaced.
I'm thinking it could have something to do with the headlight selector stalk now. Now that I think about it, the car would go click-click-click-click on start up, it was coming from somewhere in the drivers area/wheel. I've also found that it's a common problem with these cars. But I'm going to check through things first, luckily though, Advance has the part in stock, so if it should be the issue, it can be replaced.
- 10,620
- gtp_jimprower
Well...the bulbs should last for more than a few months, unless they're really cheap. There might be a problem with the relay or a short somewhere. Check that selector stalk, I suppose. See, this was information I could have used before. X3
- 8,480
- P_Balance
Personally, I think everything is pointing to the headlights being burnt out at this point.
- 3,401
- Pennsylvania
- Darkdeeds427
Based on what I'm reading, I'm saying the selector switch, although you never mentioned if the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) are functioning properly. Also, if the bulbs you got were incorrect (They use 3 stage bulbs, a stage for DRL, Lo, & Hi) you may have an issue also, but I don't see this as being a truly feasible problem area. Best bet is to start small and just get new bulbs. If the problem persists, you know it's a deeper issue. :shrugs:
Edit: Whoops, missed that you said the bulbs are in good shape. I'd still double check however.
Edit: Whoops, missed that you said the bulbs are in good shape. I'd still double check however.
Keef
Premium
- 25,185
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
When a car doesn't start, what's the first thing you check? Probably the battery and not the tire pressure. Sort of like when a light doesn't turn on you shouldn't roll the passenger window down. In fact, you should check the bulbs. Don't just look at them though, run current through them with a multimeter and make sure they're the right type. Sometimes the tiniest mistakes cause the most complex problems in a car.
