- 7,313
- Land of the smelly onion
It's an auto. 1997 Grand Prix GTP to be exact.
Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions
- Thread starter nd 4 holden spd
- 1,479 comments
- 84,022 views
It's an auto. 1997 Grand Prix GTP to be exact.
- 3,433
what are the general rules regarding display of front number plates in the UK? I realise there must be one on show but I have seen a few cars that have put their plate on the dash at the front, just to unclutter the nose of the car I guess, is that acceptable?
- 7,666
You can probably zip-tie it to the grille. I've seen a lot of people do that too. I know that in Washington you have to have special permission or something if your car doesn't come stock with mounting hardware or a mounting location.
So I'm thinking something is definitely wrong with the GTI. The hard starting is still there, and it sounds like there's a misfire in one of the cylinders at startup, since it seems to skip a cylinder at a different time whenever I start it from cold. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage. Like <10 in town and 24 with cruise control set at 80. At 60 I can still only get high twenties, I should get at least 32. It kinda sounds like a sensor of some kind.
How can I get VW to look at this as a warranty thing? It's really expensive for them to run a diagnostic, and I have to foot that bill if they don't find anything. It'll be warranty if they do. No codes, just these symptoms. Should I just take it in and say I'm getting terrible gas mileage (while driving easy) and see if they can do anything about that?
So I'm thinking something is definitely wrong with the GTI. The hard starting is still there, and it sounds like there's a misfire in one of the cylinders at startup, since it seems to skip a cylinder at a different time whenever I start it from cold. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage. Like <10 in town and 24 with cruise control set at 80. At 60 I can still only get high twenties, I should get at least 32. It kinda sounds like a sensor of some kind.
How can I get VW to look at this as a warranty thing? It's really expensive for them to run a diagnostic, and I have to foot that bill if they don't find anything. It'll be warranty if they do. No codes, just these symptoms. Should I just take it in and say I'm getting terrible gas mileage (while driving easy) and see if they can do anything about that?
I've got a problem.
I've got an '89 Mercury Tracer 3-door hatchback (no, this isn't the problem) with an aggravating rattling noise (THIS is the problem).
It rattles in Neutral. REALLY rattles. I'm talking about shout-to-hear-yourself-think rattling. It goes away when you put it in gear and drive, though it still rattles off and on when the car is in reverse. The rattle goes away when sitting in place with the car in gear and holding the brake and clutch.
Pressing the clutch tends to change the sound/presence of the rattle, so I'm afraid it might be my clutch going out or something like that.
My car knowledge doesn't go that in depth, but the sound seems to be coming from underneath the car along the centerline, just back of the front wheels, though I could be off.
Suffice to say this thing's got a lot of miles on it, so nothing really would surprise me at this point. I like the little deathtrap though, so I'd like to know if this is something I should worry about.
I've got an '89 Mercury Tracer 3-door hatchback (no, this isn't the problem) with an aggravating rattling noise (THIS is the problem).
It rattles in Neutral. REALLY rattles. I'm talking about shout-to-hear-yourself-think rattling. It goes away when you put it in gear and drive, though it still rattles off and on when the car is in reverse. The rattle goes away when sitting in place with the car in gear and holding the brake and clutch.
Pressing the clutch tends to change the sound/presence of the rattle, so I'm afraid it might be my clutch going out or something like that.
My car knowledge doesn't go that in depth, but the sound seems to be coming from underneath the car along the centerline, just back of the front wheels, though I could be off.
Suffice to say this thing's got a lot of miles on it, so nothing really would surprise me at this point. I like the little deathtrap though, so I'd like to know if this is something I should worry about.
- 1,872
- Bogotá
- GTP_Suitan (w/ an i), SultanRS4
Correct me if I'm wrong, but clutch engagement positions don't change within two weeeks.
Two weeks ago, last time I drove my Sentra, the clutch/transmission engaged after very little pedal travel. Now it engages at midpoint. This has never happened before.
The car was just serviced at 68,000 km. No clutch work though, just usual maintenance.
Two weeks ago, last time I drove my Sentra, the clutch/transmission engaged after very little pedal travel. Now it engages at midpoint. This has never happened before.
The car was just serviced at 68,000 km. No clutch work though, just usual maintenance.
- 5,076
- GTPLoon
- D1 Loon
I'm trying to figure out the backspace/offset measurements for rims.
Would I be correct in saying that the less backspacing a rim has means less of the rim past the mounting hub towards the frame? Which would mean a 9" rim with 3.5 backspacing would have 5.5" past the hub towards the fender, and with the help of a converter that tells me it would have -38 off set.
Did I do that correct?
Would I be correct in saying that the less backspacing a rim has means less of the rim past the mounting hub towards the frame? Which would mean a 9" rim with 3.5 backspacing would have 5.5" past the hub towards the fender, and with the help of a converter that tells me it would have -38 off set.
Did I do that correct?
- 74
Alot of cars now days have a hydraulic clutch. If your is one of them your should have a small container under the hood that is similar to a brake fluid container. If not right beside it. Check to make sure it isn't low on fluid. It it gets too low you can get air in the lines and it will have to be bled just like a brake line would be if it had air in the lines.
It has been 20+ years since I worked on cars for a living but I still remember a few things
This can be caused by a few different things. Some fairly easy to fix some are not so easy. First off check your motor and transmission mounts to make sure you don't have one that is broke or worn. If it is a transverse engine the mount that is on the top and front of the car would be the best bet of being the one that is broke or worn. It is usually the first to go because that is where all the stress is at when getting on the gas. Those are the easiest ones to and cheapest to fix. If it is the other thing it will not be easy or cheap to fix. The throwout bearing will sometime make alot of racket and rattle like it was a spooked rattlesnake with a bad temper just before it goes out for good if it is a manual transmission.
Last edited:
- 147
- GTP_ReDMan1911
Are you sure it wasn't a oil burning smell? Those engines, L67 (3.8L supercharged) are known for developing a oil leak at the valve cover, which pools up in one area. Under heavy braking the oil spills over onto the hot exhaust manifold, and can sometimes light the engine on fire. GM did a recall a little while back about it, so I'd look into it, just to be safe. There are forums where you can find more info on this, and searching for L67BBQ might find some results. No joke.
- 74
Here is a word from the wise tip for you. "ALWAYS!!!" read the labels on anything that you are fixing to pour into anything under the hood of your car or truck. If not you might learn the hard way when you pour the wrong thing in the wrong container.
I was sitting at my computer today working on Project GT when my Mom stuck her head in the door and asked me "Will it hurt my van if I poured the wrong thing in the radiator overflow?" Then came my mistake asking what she poured in it. Her answer? "OIL"
That part was bad enough but it got worse from there, when dad got home a few minutes later and was laughing when he asked her "Can't you tell oil from antifreeze?" He stopped laughing in his tracks when she said she wasn't paying attention to the color of what was in the jug but the color of the jug. "The blue jug had antifreeze in it, it is the same jug I used last time I was low on coolant last week be it was low."
Now tomorrow dad knows what he will be doing, removing most of the cooling system to have the parts that can be cleaned out of all that oil cleaned.
I was sitting at my computer today working on Project GT when my Mom stuck her head in the door and asked me "Will it hurt my van if I poured the wrong thing in the radiator overflow?" Then came my mistake asking what she poured in it. Her answer? "OIL"
That part was bad enough but it got worse from there, when dad got home a few minutes later and was laughing when he asked her "Can't you tell oil from antifreeze?" He stopped laughing in his tracks when she said she wasn't paying attention to the color of what was in the jug but the color of the jug. "The blue jug had antifreeze in it, it is the same jug I used last time I was low on coolant last week be it was low." Now tomorrow dad knows what he will be doing, removing most of the cooling system to have the parts that can be cleaned out of all that oil cleaned.
It has been 20+ years since I worked on cars for a living but I still remember a few things
Hey, thanks for the help.
I've been looking around on the internet the last few days, and from what I've found I'm pretty sure it's the throwout bearing.
Seems like everyone recommends getting a clutch kit (which is supposed to include one) and just doing the whole thing at once, along with some kind of seal...makes sense I guess. But I've got a question: None of the clutch kits I've looked up online actually say they include a Throwout Bearing; they all say they have a Release Bearing instead. Are they the same thing? I've read some articles about how clutches work, and they seem to use the two terms interchangeably, but I want to be sure before I go around buying things I may not need.
- 74
LOL twenty+ years ago they called it the throwout bearing then someone came along and thought they needed to change the name because the throwout bearing "released the clutch" not throw it out. But yes they are the same thing. Also what you read is correct if you are going to have to replace the "release bearing" you might as well replace the whole clutch since you have to remove the transmission to change out the bearing anyway might as well replace the clutch while it is out to save from having to do it again a little later. Usually if the bearing is going out is has caused some ware on the clutch in the process do to it not releasing the clutch all the way when pressing the petal. It would have the same effect as "riding the clutch"
Glad I could help the manual transmission is one of you few things that have not changed alot much basically for the last 100+ year that they have been around.
The seals they are talking about are the round seal at the back of the motor where the shaft of the transmission goes into the motor and engages the flywheel. The seal prevents the oil from leaking out of the motor where the two connect. It is just a little round cup like piece of metal with a hole in it and a rubber gasket like thing in the middle of the hole. There is normally one of these on both the motor and the transmission though the one on the transmission doesn't get damaged as much as the one one the motor when the clutch is not working right. It is better to replace a couple of "$2" seals than to pay hundreds to have to pull the transmission just to change the seal. They used to not cost much at all but now days it is no telling what that seal cost now when a radiator plug that probably cost $0.30 to make cost you $25.00 to buy a "plastic" plug.
Last edited:
- 3,008
- You're crazy if you think
- I can afford either of these.
- 3,433
Enigma
Premium
- 364
- Glasgow
- GTP_Enigma
I don't think that would be legal, it would certainly fail an MOT. Not to mention the fact it would make you look like a person whose number plate has fallen off and you have put it on the dash temporarily.
Not really a good look
- 10,620
- gtp_jimprower
Could be muffler wearing out, too. get underneath, knock around on it, see if it does anything.
- 3,433
I don't think that would be legal, it would certainly fail an MOT. Not to mention the fact it would make you look like a person whose number plate has fallen off and you have put it on the dash temporarily.
Not really a good look
example
ah lovely, drill some holes, bend to fit. looks awkward and out of place. marvelous
uncluttered as intended, much better.
Enigma
Premium
- 364
- Glasgow
- GTP_Enigma
You may prefer the look but Im afraid in this country that isn't legal.
- 21,190
- United States
- nk4e
90 nissan 240sx owners, If you ever done the Fix your headlight problem and looked at the two plastic peices under the contact box does it look like this?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
- 1,872
- Bogotá
- GTP_Suitan (w/ an i), SultanRS4
Sorry for reviving this thread... slightly... but I have a pretty general international question...
In your country, how are diplomatic cars identified? (As in, cars from the embassies of other countries) Here the license plates are blue and have 2 letters and 4 numbers, as opposed to the usual yellow and 3 and 3 for normal cars.
In your country, how are diplomatic cars identified? (As in, cars from the embassies of other countries) Here the license plates are blue and have 2 letters and 4 numbers, as opposed to the usual yellow and 3 and 3 for normal cars.
- 21,190
- United States
- nk4e
Why would you want to know?
- 4,213
- Puerto Rico
- motortrend
what do you people think about this?
http://www.clasificadosonline.com/UDTransDetail.asp?AutoNumAnuncio=2156882
it used to be at like 16k but now it's at a lower price, the listing says the car is ready to drive with nothing bad mechanically, and looks great on the picture. What is worrying is the 155k miles though I think it has a rebuild.
So, what do you people think about it?
PS: not loking into buying it, wish I could, but no
http://www.clasificadosonline.com/UDTransDetail.asp?AutoNumAnuncio=2156882
it used to be at like 16k but now it's at a lower price, the listing says the car is ready to drive with nothing bad mechanically, and looks great on the picture. What is worrying is the 155k miles though I think it has a rebuild.
So, what do you people think about it?
PS: not loking into buying it, wish I could, but no
- 23,800
- Philippines
Typically, I think Diplomatic plates are blue or black on white... though it varies.
Ours have no country designation (which is what those two letters probably are)... since there aren't enough diplomatic vehicles to use up the possible number combinations... we just have a five or six digit number.
- 4,543
- Bay Area, CA
- Zenith113
Hey guys. Recently I taught my friend's son to drive stick shift. Now he wants to trade his car for something with a stick shift in it. Its a 2007 V6 Mustang with about 55,000 miles on it. I was wondering if anyone had some advice on trading an auto for a manual. How much would a conversion cost?
Edit: KBB puts his car at about $11,000. He says he'll be okay with switching to a different car that's similar to the mustang
Edit: KBB puts his car at about $11,000. He says he'll be okay with switching to a different car that's similar to the mustang
Last edited:
- 10,620
- gtp_jimprower
example
ah lovely, drill some holes, bend to fit. looks awkward and out of place. marvelous
uncluttered as intended, much better.
You know, we made license plate frames for that model, for states that insisted they have a front-mounted plate.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
Yes. I'm assuming your turn signals stopped working?90 nissan 240sx owners, If you ever done the Fix your headlight problem and looked at the two plastic peices under the contact box does it look like this?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
There's a little rod under that middle plastic piece that needs to be properly inserted in it to make the signal stalk work properly.
I also did this for my car, but it didn't fix my lights. My motors have dead spots, as I feared.
