Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

Motors should not be problem.
adapting a FWD car to RWD is nasty business.

For engines there are 2 options:
longitude motors :these are easy to convert
Transversal motors are more work.

In general everything is possible. Just a question of time & money

What engine are you talking about?

Anybody familiar with Liqui-Moly Engine oil? Are they any good?
Yes. They are made in germany. High quality oil
 
No specifics, I just dream occasionally. Like when I saw the other thread with the free 1980 Volvo Coupe, I couldn't help but wonder how awesome the 5cyl turbo out of a Focus ST (XR5 in Australia) would be in a car like that, but that'd be a transverse FWD application to a RWD longitudinal application for that motor.
 
Turning a transverse motor around or a longitudinal motor sideways is nasty business if it's an older motor and isn't available in the other configuration... you'll sometimes have to reposition distributors, rebracket accessories... build an adapter plate for the transmission... etcetera... Not to mention new manifolds, custom oil pans (to clear crossmembers), engine mounts...

Would be awesome, though.
 
So it's been hurricane season for a while and we're starting to get those crazy rain storms instead of actual hurricanes. A few days ago we got dumped on. My city had the most rain that day in all of Florida. It was like 4 inches of rain in a few hours.

Of course, my car is not waterproof. After the storm, when I got in my car the next day it smelled like death. It smelled like the Korean puppy slaughterhouse that it was probably assembled in. I've had to drive with the windows down all week.

Usually when it rains super hard like that, I get a big pond of water in the spare tire compartment. So I have to take the trunk floor out and let it air out and stuff. I checked it and there was no pond but plenty of pond scum. I have a hypothesis that it actually was flooded and the terrible smell was all the water vapor that had evaporated by the next afternoon when I got into the car. It was real humid in there when I first opened the door, so it makes sense.

But what else could it be? What else makes a car stink so bad? I mean, it smells like Oscar the grouch took a **** under my seat.
 
The wet-dog phenomenon. In an old car you never know what has soaked into the seats over the years, or the carpet, roof liner, what's down inside the vents, etc. Sometimes when things get hot and wet they just plain stink.

I have a habit of removing the seats and console panels from my cars and thoroughly shampooing my carpets and seats, anything that soaks up stuff. The only thing I can suggest is doing that. Also, air conditioning, which I don't think you have. Wet air in a car is horrible as I found out in my Del Sol because it leaked when it rained, had no AC, and steamed my windows beyond repair during summer storms to the point I had to pull over and sit there until it went away.
 
When you do come to a solution with the stank, maybe the gaskets on your tail lights are bad, which causes the water in your trunk? I'd replace all the weatherproofing if you think it's worth it.
 
No specifics, I just dream occasionally. Like when I saw the other thread with the free 1980 Volvo Coupe, I couldn't help but wonder how awesome the 5cyl turbo out of a Focus ST (XR5 in Australia) would be in a car like that, but that'd be a transverse FWD application to a RWD longitudinal application for that motor.

It's possible, mostly with bolt-on parts actually. The Focus engine is the trusty old Volvo T5 with new accessories and badging, and the T5 happens to be of the same "modular engine series" as the straight six engines used in the 960 series. Every engine of that series can use the same gearbox. So you'd need a 960 transmission and clutch housing and you'd be set, engine mounts are another story though but it's not much of a problem after that.
 
But what else could it be? What else makes a car stink so bad? I mean, it smells like Oscar the grouch took a **** under my seat.

Besides normal funk, the rotting death smell is probably the foam/matte under the carpet literally decomposing.

To get rid of the smell, you need to rip the seats out so you can get to the carpet. Get one of those industrial style cheapie spray bottle and a bottle of original Lysol [the brown stuff].

Use a wet/dry vacuum and get as much 'stuff' off of the carpet as you can. Spray down the carpet with a Lysol & water mix, get it soaked, and let it sit for 20min or so while you have a sandwich. Now vacuum the wet stuff up [remember to remove the filter] until the carpet it just a bit damp to the touch. Soak it again w/only water and vacuum it up a few minutes later.

Repeat this with the seats, if they're cloth, and the headliner. Be very careful w/the headliner as you don't want to tear it or separate it so it sags in places. You may want to just blot it with paper towels if your car is old.

Once everything is cleaned; put the seats back in and let the car air-dry for the rest of the day/evening.

Voila! You're car smells fresh...actually, there should hardly be any smell at all. If you want it have a fragrance; use a little laundry soap [Woolite, Tide, anything really] along with the Lysol.

Hope this helps.

PS: this also works for basement carpets too.

PSS: if this doesn't help, the stink may be coming from the HVAC. There's some nasty stuff out there that's used to disinfect hospital rooms that's a 2-part mix and comes with a aerosol propellant. Smells like your g/f just dyed her hair, but it and any mold/mildew/funk smell from the HVAC goes away in 20min.
 
That sounds like great advice, Bruther. However, I'd rather just torch it.
 
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Hew yall this if the MAF out of my 89 Eletra. Does it look bad? It looks worn to me but I dont really know how you can tell if its "bad".
Assuming other stuff is in check, could this cause an idle issue?
 
That looks a lot more like an O2 sensor to me...

Its too open at the end plus the bit between his fingers looks plastic so I doubt its an O2 sensor.

Looks like a MAF sensor or possibly an IAT (inlet air temperature) sensor which is usually built into the MAF in a lot of cars.

To answer your question, yes a faulty MAF/IAT sensor will give you problems like the engine cutting out for example due to the ECU getting no/incorrect readings from the sensors.
 
How many mpg can I expect to lose going from a 235/75r15 tire to a 31x10.50r15 tire? 31x10.50 in P metric comes out to about 265/75r16
 
How many mpg can I expect to lose going from a 235/75r15 tire to a 31x10.50r15 tire? 31x10.50 in P metric comes out to about 265/75r16

I couldnt see much more than 1-3 mpg since thats not a whole lot more rolling resistance, but Ill let you know when I go from a 205/55r16 to a 255 18 inch tire.:)

*snip*

To answer your question, yes a faulty MAF/IAT sensor will give you problems like the engine cutting out for example due to the ECU getting no/incorrect readings from the sensors.

Okay, thank you, really I just wanted a second opinion to justify $30 on a different one before I have a shop take a second look at the codes as it runs perfect on the highway but has a weird idle problem and sometimes hesitation when going from a standstill. so I figured it may be a culprit, unless any other idea aside from say plugs,wires, fuel pump....
 
^ lol Well i never said I knew what that sensor that is right after my cone filter was called. But its likely the IAT then :P I mean thats what I thought is could have been. :lol:
 
Circled is the MAF on every 3800 known to man. Please explain how what he's holding attaches like that? :P

Like I said sometimes the IAT sensor is built into the MAF (the item you have circled) and sometimes its a seperate sensor all together (most likely the one he is holding) hope that clarifies it for you :P
 
I have an RSX 2.0 that's been giving me wierd idle issues. I just did the 100k service (spark plugs, serpentine belt, oil/tranny fluid change) & still can't figure it out. Basically if the car is in motion and I take it out of gear, the RPMs will drop so low that sometimes it'll stall the engine. If the car is at a standstill, and i take it out of gear, it doesn't drop down to almost stalling then going back to around 800 RPM.

I thought it was my Idle Air Control Valve and I've cleaned it twice already.
 
have you checked to see if you map vacuum is pinched?? and or swapped for a known working map sensor??

ps

Im from Baltimore
 
Like the title says if you know certain formula's, or other helpful automotive information that might help someone else that visits this site post it here. Post examples of how the tips or formulas are used please. I'll get it started with two formulas that I have used and I know off the top of my head and a few other things I still remember from my younger days.

The first is only helpful to people that build engines or want to find out what size an engine will be with certain modifications.

Example:You are building a muscle car and you find a short block (a short block is not short but is an engine that consist of the block, pistons, and connecting rods installed but doesn't have the heads with the engine and a long block has the heads too) at a salvage yard that is still in pretty good shape but all the labels are missing and you don't know the engine codes that are on the block mean and/or have a guide to look them up. The salvage yard guy is new and doesn't know a thing about the engine but that is came out of a old Ford Super Duty truck.

So what do you do to find out what size engine you have there to help ID it? You open your tool box and get out your measuring devices. Inside and outside micrometers, calipers, and the other measuring tool that measures the stroke or the distance from BDC to TDC of the pistons travel distance which I can't remember the name of right now since it has been 20+ years since I used one.

OK now we use our measuring tools to measure the Bore and Stroke of out mystery engine and apply the following formula. B^2*S*Pi/4*#cyl=X
Lets say you measure the bore and it is exactly 4" inches, you measure the stroke and it is 4" as well. So lets plug in our numbers. We have Bore=4" and a Stroke=4" so B^2= 4^2=4*4=16 16*S=4 16*4=64 so now we have B^2=16 and the Stroke=4 so we have 16*4=64 now multiply 64*Pi= 64* 3.1415926535897932384626433832795=201.06 192982974676726160917652989 now divide 201.06192982974676726160917652989/4= 50.265482457436691815402294132472 The is the CID of one cylinder. Our short block has 8 cyls. so 50.265482457436691815402294132472*8=X X= 402.12385965949353452321835305978 rounded off it is a 402 CID engine so what Ford engines are actually around 402 CID and came in a truck? Ford made small blocks, mid size blocks, and Big block engines.

Of these three only the mid size and the big blocks came in a size close to our mystery engine. These were labeled the 351M/400 400CID which was a mid size block and the 401CID Big block. The 401 was one of three engines that came in the Super Duty Ford Truck 401/477/534. So that is must be our mystery engine the 401 SD

The next formula is more useful to most drivers. You just installed a new set of larger low profile tires, how do you check you speedometer to see not only if it is reading correctly but if not how much it is off? Best place to do this is on a flat straight piece of freeway or highway that has mile markers and that the traffic is light enough to hold a constant speed.(Best to use a cruise control if you have a problem holding a constant speed with your foot alone)

Most know that a mile in a minute flat is 60 mph but you travel exactly 2 miles and then check your stop watch and see you just traveled that 2 miles in 104 seconds instead of 120 seconds. So how fast was you actually going.

To find this out we use the following formula. Time in seconds/Distance= n 3600/n=Speed In our above example lets say we kept a constant speed for 2 miles we traveled it in 104 seconds so we have this 104/2=n n= 52 now for the second part of our formula 3600/n. n=52 so we now have 3600/52=S S=69.230769230769230769230769230769 MPH so you now know that you speedometer is a hair over 9 MPH faster than it is showing.

Now it is your turn to add helpful automotive tips you think would be helpful to others on the forum.
I'm moving this from the thread I started because I was told about this one already being here so if it sounds weirdly worded for this thread now you will know why.
 
I'm looking to change out my spark plugs. Are these "exact torque" measurements really necessary or can I just tighten them normally?
 
I'm looking to change out my spark plugs. Are these "exact torque" measurements really necessary or can I just tighten them normally?

Its fine to tighten them normally with a ratchet, always start them by hand first to make sure the thread is lining up correctly.

No harm in using a torque wrench if you have one though.
 
Coming home from work today I had to slam on the brakes and almost immediately I could smell a burning rubber type smell. I did not lock up any of the wheels and the smell went away quickly as soon as I started moving again.

Any ideas?
 
Just because there wasn't a lockup didn't mean the tires (or brakes) didn't get hot. I don't think there's any reason to worry.
 
I wasn't going very fast, maybe 35-40mph. Also it wasn't far from my work where the car sat for 8 hours so everything was not up to temperature yet.

Only things I thought of are a plug wire rubbed against a header pipe, or the rubber elbow for my A/C drain (which is located close to the rear header) fell off.
 
I'm looking to change out my spark plugs. Are these "exact torque" measurements really necessary or can I just tighten them normally?

If it is an aluminum heads you will definably want to use a torque wrench you can strip out the threads on an aluminum heads or block very easily if you have any real strength at all.

Coming home from work today I had to slam on the brakes and almost immediately I could smell a burning rubber type smell. I did not lock up any of the wheels and the smell went away quickly as soon as I started moving again.

Any ideas?

Adam your car isn't a manual shift by any chance is it?
 
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Truck is being weird. I replaced the battery last week and this has all happenend since then. For the first 3-4 days, when I started the truck, it had a rough idle in all gears, but as soon as I drove down the street and gave it any kind of gas then came to a stop again 200 feet away, all was well. That has since stopped, but a new thing has come up. The truck now will have the smooth idle, but when I hit the gas it'll sputter and not wanna go, then finally compose itself and drive like normal. And after 20 seconds of driving, this also goes away.

So I'm thinking either it's running really rich at idle, I smell gas when it does it's stuttering in reverse(only smell it because I back up through my exhaust, probably happens going forward to). OR I need to replace the spark plugs.

Anyone else got other ideas?
 
If it's stuttering like that it's not necessarily running rich, it's misfiring, thus dumping the gas that should have burned into the exhaust.

Is that thing carb'd? What's the weather like down there?
 
If it's stuttering like that it's not necessarily running rich, it's misfiring, thus dumping the gas that should have burned into the exhaust.

Is that thing carb'd? What's the weather like down there?

It's fuel injected. The weather is in the mid 80s in the day, 60s in the morning, sometimes high 50s.

And I have no clue when spark plugs were last replaced, they're pretty cheap to replace, yes?
 

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