Yes. They are made in germany. High quality oilAnybody familiar with Liqui-Moly Engine oil? Are they any good?
No specifics, I just dream occasionally. Like when I saw the other thread with the free 1980 Volvo Coupe, I couldn't help but wonder how awesome the 5cyl turbo out of a Focus ST (XR5 in Australia) would be in a car like that, but that'd be a transverse FWD application to a RWD longitudinal application for that motor.
But what else could it be? What else makes a car stink so bad? I mean, it smells like Oscar the grouch took a **** under my seat.
That looks a lot more like an O2 sensor to me...
How many mpg can I expect to lose going from a 235/75r15 tire to a 31x10.50r15 tire? 31x10.50 in P metric comes out to about 265/75r16
*snip*
To answer your question, yes a faulty MAF/IAT sensor will give you problems like the engine cutting out for example due to the ECU getting no/incorrect readings from the sensors.
Circled is the MAF on every 3800 known to man. Please explain how what he's holding attaches like that?
I'm moving this from the thread I started because I was told about this one already being here so if it sounds weirdly worded for this thread now you will know why.Like the title says if you know certain formula's, or other helpful automotive information that might help someone else that visits this site post it here. Post examples of how the tips or formulas are used please. I'll get it started with two formulas that I have used and I know off the top of my head and a few other things I still remember from my younger days.
The first is only helpful to people that build engines or want to find out what size an engine will be with certain modifications.
Example:You are building a muscle car and you find a short block (a short block is not short but is an engine that consist of the block, pistons, and connecting rods installed but doesn't have the heads with the engine and a long block has the heads too) at a salvage yard that is still in pretty good shape but all the labels are missing and you don't know the engine codes that are on the block mean and/or have a guide to look them up. The salvage yard guy is new and doesn't know a thing about the engine but that is came out of a old Ford Super Duty truck.
So what do you do to find out what size engine you have there to help ID it? You open your tool box and get out your measuring devices. Inside and outside micrometers, calipers, and the other measuring tool that measures the stroke or the distance from BDC to TDC of the pistons travel distance which I can't remember the name of right now since it has been 20+ years since I used one.
OK now we use our measuring tools to measure the Bore and Stroke of out mystery engine and apply the following formula. B^2*S*Pi/4*#cyl=X
Lets say you measure the bore and it is exactly 4" inches, you measure the stroke and it is 4" as well. So lets plug in our numbers. We have Bore=4" and a Stroke=4" so B^2= 4^2=4*4=16 16*S=4 16*4=64 so now we have B^2=16 and the Stroke=4 so we have 16*4=64 now multiply 64*Pi= 64* 3.1415926535897932384626433832795=201.06 192982974676726160917652989 now divide 201.06192982974676726160917652989/4= 50.265482457436691815402294132472 The is the CID of one cylinder. Our short block has 8 cyls. so 50.265482457436691815402294132472*8=X X= 402.12385965949353452321835305978 rounded off it is a 402 CID engine so what Ford engines are actually around 402 CID and came in a truck? Ford made small blocks, mid size blocks, and Big block engines.
Of these three only the mid size and the big blocks came in a size close to our mystery engine. These were labeled the 351M/400 400CID which was a mid size block and the 401CID Big block. The 401 was one of three engines that came in the Super Duty Ford Truck 401/477/534. So that is must be our mystery engine the 401 SD
The next formula is more useful to most drivers. You just installed a new set of larger low profile tires, how do you check you speedometer to see not only if it is reading correctly but if not how much it is off? Best place to do this is on a flat straight piece of freeway or highway that has mile markers and that the traffic is light enough to hold a constant speed.(Best to use a cruise control if you have a problem holding a constant speed with your foot alone)
Most know that a mile in a minute flat is 60 mph but you travel exactly 2 miles and then check your stop watch and see you just traveled that 2 miles in 104 seconds instead of 120 seconds. So how fast was you actually going.
To find this out we use the following formula. Time in seconds/Distance= n 3600/n=Speed In our above example lets say we kept a constant speed for 2 miles we traveled it in 104 seconds so we have this 104/2=n n= 52 now for the second part of our formula 3600/n. n=52 so we now have 3600/52=S S=69.230769230769230769230769230769 MPH so you now know that you speedometer is a hair over 9 MPH faster than it is showing.
Now it is your turn to add helpful automotive tips you think would be helpful to others on the forum.
I'm looking to change out my spark plugs. Are these "exact torque" measurements really necessary or can I just tighten them normally?
I'm looking to change out my spark plugs. Are these "exact torque" measurements really necessary or can I just tighten them normally?
Coming home from work today I had to slam on the brakes and almost immediately I could smell a burning rubber type smell. I did not lock up any of the wheels and the smell went away quickly as soon as I started moving again.
Any ideas?
If it's stuttering like that it's not necessarily running rich, it's misfiring, thus dumping the gas that should have burned into the exhaust.
Is that thing carb'd? What's the weather like down there?