Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

My dealership wouldn't throw in a $6 touch up paint to fix what their own third party touchup guy F'd up on my car. But you know, I only gave them ~$21k so that really doesn't cover such trivial things... :rolleyes:
 
Not as I know too but £3 wouldn't break the bank to buy one.

Welcome to Ford Australia where touch-up paints cost around $20.

Edit: Has anyone heard of X-Kote paint renewal and know if there would be any negative side-effects?
 
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Im changing the oil in my car and I want to flush the system with a 'cheaper' oil before I put the good stuff in.

Ive drained the old oil out now. Can I use part synthetic oil to run the car for 5mins, drain and then put the proper fully synthetic oil in with a new filter?

The car has never been run on part synthetic.....
 
Welcome to Ford Australia where touch-up paints cost around $20.

Edit: Has anyone heard of X-Kote paint renewal and know if there would be any negative side-effects?

I think In the UK we have an equivalent called Diamond Bright or Supaguard.
My Mrs Fiesta ST has It and as It Is not waxed very often with a wash and leather It always looks really glossy.
Don't know of any negatives, But I always polish my Focus ST170 with Meguiar's and It out gleams the Fiesta.
Here's a pic.
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Im changing the oil in my car and I want to flush the system with a 'cheaper' oil before I put the good stuff in.

Ive drained the old oil out now. Can I use part synthetic oil to run the car for 5mins, drain and then put the proper fully synthetic oil in with a new filter?

The car has never been run on part synthetic.....

You don't have to gargle with Perrier.

Does your manual recommend against using flushing oils? If not, just use one.
 
Im changing the oil in my car and I want to flush the system with a 'cheaper' oil before I put the good stuff in.

Ive drained the old oil out now. Can I use part synthetic oil to run the car for 5mins, drain and then put the proper fully synthetic oil in with a new filter?

The car has never been run on part synthetic.....
You could always use Seafoam before an oil change?
 
I went and spoke to these X-Kote guys and am definitely going to do it. For ~$525 it's quite a bargain if it has the same result on my car I've seen it have on others. They also use actual paint to touch-up any really bad spots, but of course I shouldn't expect overall perfection, as my Ute is my daily that's too much to ask for anyway, would only get dodgy again after a couple of weeks use, especially living in the country.
 
I went outside to get the morning paper and found that at some point yesterday I drove through some fresh concrete.

Inside my wheel wells are all white as well as small splatters behind the wheels. Don't really care about the wheel wells, but how can I get it off the rocker panels and rear bumper?
 
Then either you still don't have all the air out of the system, or the thermostat is not correct, as mentioned above. However, given the sudden spike in temperature rather than a gradual rise to overheat, I'm saying there's an air bubble still in there.

Wound up being a faulty thermostat, part of it was actually melted which blocked the flow.

I took it for a 10 mile cruise and her boyfriend(who did the repair) took it for an additional 17 without any issues.

Thanks for the help.👍

Now she just needs an O2 sensor, which is the only thing that's actually easy to fix on that car.:lol:
 
I went outside to get the morning paper and found that at some point yesterday I drove through some fresh concrete.

Inside my wheel wells are all white as well as small splatters behind the wheels. Don't really care about the wheel wells, but how can I get it off the rocker panels and rear bumper?


Mix 50/50 water with white vinegar, then carefully eyedrop it onto the concrete and wait for it to soak, then rinse and repeat as needed
 
Mix 50/50 water with white vinegar, then carefully eyedrop it onto the concrete and wait for it to soak, then rinse and repeat as needed

I'll give that a try once we have a decent day around here.

It's actually coming off by itself bit by bit from all the rain we've had and just from driving it around.
 
I am tempted to have my brother's friend mechanic to take a look at my engine. But I question if he is actually SAE certified though this check up is for free. All because I may have a dead spot in my starter and a small ticking. I am leaning towards that my valve springs need to realigned..He is always wanting for me to sell my car and get a Eclipse and pay about 100 dollars a month. It seems like a good deal though I could hardly afford anything until I get a better job. Talk about control...though its just a suggestion.
 
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Why try to save a motor you know could be better?
There isn't alot of SOHC KA love out there and trying to be different than possible other 240 owners.PB may say other wise though.
Possible options :
KA24DET
Wishful option:
SR20DET
but we will see...The odometer states that its under its 100k mile mark.
 
So other than various other issues seemingly related to the same bug, what could cause the car being mobile in either neutral or with the clutch depressed to possibly affect idle speed? On my Ute of course........

Thanks for the help absolutely nobody,:lol: but it seems all my issues have been fixed with a new Hego Sensor/O2 sensor.
 
My aircon doesn't work. Took it to Kwik Fit for a re-charge, they said there's a leak somewhere but they can't diagnose where so charged me nowt.

So, having handed it into the main stealer this morning for them to sort it out, they just phoned me and said that leak is in one of the obscure hoses somewhere in the AC system, and to replace it would cost be £226 for parts & labour.

Sorry, am I going crazy - £226 for them to fit a bit of hose?!

Honestly I think I'd be happier boiling with £200 on me.

Seeing how they've already ordered one, when I go pick up the car I'll be suggesting a few places in which they might like to shove it. Actually I won't as I'm far too middle class, but still.
 
My aircon doesn't work. Took it to Kwik Fit for a re-charge, they said there's a leak somewhere but they can't diagnose where so charged me nowt.

So, having handed it into the main stealer this morning for them to sort it out, they just phoned me and said that leak is in one of the obscure hoses somewhere in the AC system, and to replace it would cost be £226 for parts & labour.

Sorry, am I going crazy - £226 for them to fit a bit of hose?!

Honestly I think I'd be happier boiling with £200 on me.

Seeing how they've already ordered one, when I go pick up the car I'll be suggesting a few places in which they might like to shove it. Actually I won't as I'm far too middle class, but still.
Thats stupid as a regas will cost about 70 quid and a pipe aint to much but labour is mental.
Future tip... Never go to sh@fit.
And a AC system loses 10% of It's gas a year, Hit below 60 and It won't work.
 
Thats parts and labor. The If it is some obscure in a location where they have to remove parts to get to, that price is about right.

£226 comes out to about $338 and change. Typical labor charges here are $75-90.

That could be a $2 part that takes 3-4 hours to install.
 
There isn't alot of SOHC KA love out there and trying to be different than possible other 240 owners.PB may say other wise though.
Possible options :
KA24DET
Wishful option:
SR20DET
but we will see...The odometer states that its under its 100k mile mark.
I'm not sure what I should be saying otherwise about.... SAE certified doesn't mean much, also I should mention that looking at the starter won't tell you if it had a dead spot. If the car doesn't crank sometimes even with a charged battery, then yes, the starter probably has a dead spot. As far as a ticking sound, honestly I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets really bad. You can find a KA24DE motor for next to nothing, so just save up a reserve of money just in case something goes bad. Don't buy an Eclipse, they aren't any more reliable than your 240, and unless it's an AWD turbo model, not half a fun either.


Or, if you want to save some money and swap the engine, get like a CA18DET or an RB20DET. They're both generally cheaper than the sr20, and have enough power.

EDIT:
Jondot
Sorry, am I going crazy - £226 for them to fit a bit of hose?!

You've obviously never taken apart a car before, nor do you know much about A/C systems. It's not "a bit of hose" like something you use to water your garden, and it takes about 30 minutes to simply vacuum and recharge the A/C, without doing anything to the car itself.
 
Thats parts and labor. The If it is some obscure in a location where they have to remove parts to get to, that price is about right.

£226 comes out to about $338 and change. Typical labor charges here are $75-90.

That could be a $2 part that takes 3-4 hours to install.

We are talking about a Ka the pipe takes 10 minutes to change.

As for the ticky noise Ka's are a OHV enginge so they probably need adjusting.
 
Speaking of Ka, my girlfriends old Ka has a problem. Under low speeds when braking there is often a clunking sound from the front (I think passenger side) when the car comes to a stop. It's definately noticeable though braking itself isn't harmed and it only occurs when at slow speed and coming to a stop, I suspect something like a loose caliper perhaps but I'm no expert. Suggestions?

She's actually trying to sell the car but this will obviously put buyers off. I personally can't do anything work wise, she doesn't live with me she's still living at home (we're both uni students) but I was hoping I could forward something from the good people of GTP.

Edit: Few more details I've been given, it aparently stops once you've been going for a while so perhaps it's nothing worth worrying about but clarification is always good. It's also not been used that much recently.
 
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Loose pads is another thing I thought about, I'll forward that one as well along with uneven wear which I hadn't thought about. Hopefully they have a jack so they can lift the front up and find out which wheel it is (spin the wheels and apply the brakes with someone outside) then it's a relatively simple job to check at least.

That is assuming it doesn't turn out to be a complete nightmare like the rear brake on my motorbike was when the whole brake arrangement was jammed together and I had to buy a whole new caliper :lol:. Speaking of I need to check the front brake pads on that to.
 
Could be a loose bolt, Caliper retaing spring missing/incorrectly fitted,
Take It you can't feel It through the pedal as I thought of warped disc 1st but you'd feel It.
Antiroll bar links are worth givin a wobble.
Does the noise match the speed?
 
Actually thinking about it, presuming you can't feel the clunk through the brake pedal I'd be very tempted to check that one of the front coils isn't broken. It's quite a common problem and it can make a clunking noise at low speeds (both my parents' Saabs have had that trouble, and one morning we came out to find a bit of spring on the driveway).

Definitely worth checking as you can imagine, it wouldn't be a nice experience if it went when she's driving along.
 
The car is sold (or will be aparently, you know how people are when they say they'll buy something) in it's current state anyway, they knocked £100 off what she hoped to get so it will be the next owners problem now.
 
Gahh....After putting in gas today after work. I notice that there is a white ring around the gas tank and when I try to shut the door. It won't close, I am currently searching the web for a solution? anyone got any ideas on how to fix it. I may hit up pepboys tommorrow before I go to work.
 
Can temperature differences of 15-20 degrees Celsius account for a fuel efficiency difference of 1.0L/100km? I had 8.0L/100km last Summer, and that would have been with a dodgy O2 sensor and all, and now that everything is supposedly good, all new sensors everywhere, I'm getting 9.0L/100km. The only differences are that the temperature has dropped rapidly as it's now Winter. Unless my spark plugs or something bigger is now failing.:odd:
 

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