Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

Also, anyone have a good idea what grade of brake fluid I should use in my '94 VR Ute for optimum pedal feel without breaking the bank entirely? Are there negative effects to using better brake fluid? Something so simple, you'd think all manufacturers would just use them in the first place.

This is a great article on brake fluid, it might be of some use.

I can't think of any negative effects of using better brake fluid other than it taking longer to heat up which might make your brakes lack some feel when cold. But i'm not entirely sure that it would be the case, i might be getting mixed up with needing a bit of heat in the disks and pads before they get some 'feel' in them.
 
I'll have to read that tomorrow when I have time. In the Brute Ute we prepare (or prepared, since it will probably be leaving us soon for no fault of our own) at work, we use the Castrol SRF, but they replace it after practically every race meet. Is that just because it's been through a race meet? I.e. I won't have to replace Castrol SRF in my Ute that often will I? Unless I go to a track day of course.:sly:
 
I'll have to read that tomorrow when I have time. In the Brute Ute we prepare (or prepared, since it will probably be leaving us soon for no fault of our own) at work, we use the Castrol SRF, but they replace it after practically every race meet. Is that just because it's been through a race meet? I.e. I won't have to replace Castrol SRF in my Ute that often will I? Unless I go to a track day of course.:sly:

Once fluid has reached boiling point, as it's likely to do during heavy track use, it will subsequently reach boiling point at a much lower temperature, and therefore much sooner next time out. Doesn't really matter that much in a road car, unless it's underbraked to start with, since a road cars never going to get the same abuse.

The article i linked does say that over time your brake system will get air and water leaked into it, and it's that that can effect your pedal feel.

I'd say that unless you do a lot of trackdays, changing cheap fluid frequently and bleeding the system well each time will probably be more beneficial than splashing out on expensive fluid and skimping on the routine maintenance.
 
I'm probably more likely to splash out on the more expensive fluid and keep up routine maintenance at the same time, I just didn't want that routine maintenance to become more frequent.
 
Is there anything that could cause the car to not want to start when the engine is cold? It doesn't really matter if it's cold or warm out but if the engine is well below operating temperature it almost won't start.

I had the starter motor repaired (or replaced) recently, but I kind of doubt that's the problem because it starts just fine after it's been running for a bit. And it still starts every time, it just takes a long time and gets me a little nervous that it won't start every time I try and start it. Also, the tach sticks at zero until it's at idle then jumps up to idle and only does this when it has starting issues. It's still completely normal on a warm engine.
 
Is there anything that could cause the car to not want to start when the engine is cold? It doesn't really matter if it's cold or warm out but if the engine is well below operating temperature it almost won't start.

I had the starter motor repaired (or replaced) recently, but I kind of doubt that's the problem because it starts just fine after it's been running for a bit. And it still starts every time, it just takes a long time and gets me a little nervous that it won't start every time I try and start it. Also, the tach sticks at zero until it's at idle then jumps up to idle and only does this when it has starting issues. It's still completely normal on a warm engine.
This reminded me of this article:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240sx-hard-starting-when-cold.html
 
Thanks for the article. VW has a voluntary recall out for coil packs, saying to bring it in if the CEL goes off at start. Could those be it?

EDIT: I'm getting those looked at anyway. Hopefully VW can figure out the problem if that's not it anyway.
 
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For some reason my mom's car is having over heating issues. It doesn't get up to normal running temp. any faster, but after it does it normally shoots up rather fast.

We have recently replaced the thermostat, water pump and a few hoses.

I was thinking the radiator.
 
This is a great article on brake fluid, it might be of some use.

I can't think of any negative effects of using better brake fluid other than it taking longer to heat up which might make your brakes lack some feel when cold. But i'm not entirely sure that it would be the case, i might be getting mixed up with needing a bit of heat in the disks and pads before they get some 'feel' in them.

I read through the meat of the article and skimmed over the rest that didn't really apply to me. It seems that DOT 4 is the best fluid to have, but due to its more rapid drop-off rate of boiling point if you're doing anything more than daily driving it would need to be replaced more often. Additionally though, and this is the thing that concerns me, if my Ute's braking system isn't up to the task of handling DOT 4, it's going to put a lot of stress on the system, particularly seals and what not (the weak points). I guess I should get some professional advice on that part. They didn't really talk much about compressibility though, which is the main feature I'm interested in, to improve feel for daily driving. I'm guessing DOT 4 is still the best.
 
On a cloverleaf interchange, why is it easier to drift the two ramps going to the highway above? Confused? For some reason it's easier to drift going uphill than down, and by easier, I mean easier to initiate the slide.
 
On a cloverleaf interchange, why is it easier to drift the two ramps going to the highway above? Confused? For some reason it's easier to drift going uphill than down, and by easier, I mean easier to initiate the slide.
It's not the car, it's you. You're just better at it going uphill because it's generally a lot easier.

In the same way I'm a lot better at drifting to the left than to the right.
 
I'd just go out and get some of the spray cleaning foam stuff. Spray down the engine bay and then hit it with a hose. It'll clean a good amount of stuff off. Enough to make it presentable but not show car good.
 
What's a good way to clean up an engine bay, and make it look all shiny? I want to make the Ranger presentable.

With the engine cold,put some kerosene in a spray bottle,spray down the engine / engine compartment real good,let it sit fo 10-15 minutes,then hose it off real well.Then use a product called Engine Brite to remove any residue left by the kerosene,spray it on,let it set up,hose it off.

The kerosene trick is one used by my buddy who owns a detail shop,He does this a lot for dealership cars that he details.It works really well.
 
.... You're kidding me, right? :P

...sure ain't! :P

It's not the car, it's you. You're just better at it going uphill because it's generally a lot easier.

In the same way I'm a lot better at drifting to the left than to the right.

I should mention this is just in the rain... My balls aren't hairy enough to try it in the dry, not yet. :) But there is something different, and not just me. Right? The suspension is being loaded differently or something, making it easier to brake traction. Going uphill all it takes is a slight clutch kick, maybe an extra 1k, in third at like 40 just to get an idea. Hell sometimes it doesn't even take that. But going downhill it requires slightly more, more speed, a small jerk of the wheel.

I was just wondering what that difference was, the physical difference. Just trying to figure how my car reacts in different situations (and why) so to kinda get a better understanding of the car, and be able to use that.
 
It should actually be easier to do it going downhill. And by easier, I mean easier to start, not necessarily easier to control. on the track or on a mountain road, it's more dangerous to trail-brake going downhill than uphill.
 
EDIT: I'm getting those looked at anyway. Hopefully VW can figure out the problem if that's not it anyway.

Just a bit of followup on this. The dealer had already performed the recall (which explains my terrible gas mileage) and the problem appears to be related to the fuel pump and my drivers side door.

When I open the door after the car has been sitting, the fuel pump was supposed to pressurize but now it waits until I turn the key. I donno if VW can do anything with this...
 
Shouldn't drifting in the rain a bit more dangerous than doing it on a dry pavement? I almost under-steered into cart rails while in rain before. It wasn't too fun though lucky enough I wasn't going fast enough.
 
I should mention this is just in the rain... My balls aren't hairy enough to try it in the dry, not yet. :) But there is something different, and not just me. Right? The suspension is being loaded differently or something, making it easier to brake traction. Going uphill all it takes is a slight clutch kick, maybe an extra 1k, in third at like 40 just to get an idea. Hell sometimes it doesn't even take that. But going downhill it requires slightly more, more speed, a small jerk of the wheel.

I was just wondering what that difference was, the physical difference. Just trying to figure how my car reacts in different situations (and why) so to kinda get a better understanding of the car, and be able to use that.

Gravity.

Going downhill the car will naturally be trying to run away with you a bit. The rear tyres have less traction so whatever you do with the throttle has more of an effect, including when you lift off.

As Niky says, it should be easier to start a slide going downhill with gravity giving the car a little pull round itself. If you're finding it more difficult, it could just be a bit of subconscious self-preservation kicking in as you've found it more difficult in the past.

If my physics is correct though, one reason you may be finding it easier drifting uphill is that your clutch kick has more of an affect on weight transfer uphill. Up hill, proportionally more of the weight of the car sits naturally on the back. Transferring some to the front will make more difference than if you're going downhill where more of the weight is on the front in the first place.
 
For some reason my mom's car is having over heating issues. It doesn't get up to normal running temp. any faster, but after it does it normally shoots up rather fast.

We have recently replaced the thermostat, water pump and a few hoses.

I was thinking the radiator.

If you replaced hoses, you likely have air in the system, which is what causes the sudden spikes in temperature as bubbles get trapped here and there.

Work on the car in a level place with the radiator cap off, and try to work any possible air through the hoses and out through the radiator tank. Top off the radiator and overflow tank as required.
 
If you replaced hoses, you likely have air in the system, which is what causes the sudden spikes in temperature as bubbles get trapped here and there.

Work on the car in a level place with the radiator cap off, and try to work any possible air through the hoses and out through the radiator tank. Top off the radiator and overflow tank as required.

Tried it, still runs hot.
 
Justin...

who replaced the thermostat?

On some cars (like mine bmw), the thermostat has a specific orientation when you install it...

I am not only talking about ensuring the flow of water to be correct,
but if the thermostat has a tiny bleed air hole, you have to orient in such a way to have the hole at 12 o'clock!

otherwise, it could compromise the functioning of the thermostat... which effects are similar to what you describe....



if you dont think that's the problem, then another thing could be that

a clogged radiator? or any of the electrical sensor that detect temperature of the water coming out of the radiator and such...



what car is it?
 
Tried it, still runs hot.

Then either you still don't have all the air out of the system, or the thermostat is not correct, as mentioned above. However, given the sudden spike in temperature rather than a gradual rise to overheat, I'm saying there's an air bubble still in there.
 
185/60s or 195/60s for the Miata? Gonna be buying some Dunlops pretty soon, both sizes are the same price. Anybody know of any good places to purchase tires aside from tirerack?
 
taking bets on what this noise is:



it only happens in the mornings and goes away before the temp needle goes up even 1/8. also taking bets on whether or not the dealer figures out what it is
 
I've got one for you chaps. I'm guessing it is an electrical/engine management problem but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone here can shed some light on it.

This used to happen intermittently (once every one or two months) but it has got more and more frequent and is now almost every day. It only happens when i start the car, not when I am driving along.

The car has a slight drop in power, the exaugst note sounds slighty different and there are some pops coming from the exauhst on the overrun, the revs drop quicker when changing gear and the car occasionally gets close to stalling if I let them drop to idle. Whenever this happens, the spedo stops working also.

Normally after a while (could be 5 to 15mins), the spedo jumps back in to life and everything is fine.

Any ideas?!!



*edit*

Oh, you might want to know what I drive!! :dunce:

It's a 2000 Ford Focus 3dr 1.8 Zetec
 
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