Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

What car is it?
Have you checked the disc run out with a dial gauge though?
Are the wheel bearings smooth and noise free?
Are CV joint smooth and noise free? (if FWD)
Are the wheels correctly balanced?
Has it got aftermarket wheels fitted? If so is the spiggit ring fitted or the correct size?

The car is a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP.

Wheel bearings and C/V joints are fine, no noise.

The wheels were balanced last year when I got new tires, I inspected them thinking maybe a wheel weight fell off but the weights are still there.

Wheels and tires are stock but the brakes have been upgraded last summer.

I did some more searching and think I found the problem. It appears to be a case of brake judder, more specifically hot judder.

Here's what I got from Wiki:

Brake judder is usually perceived by the driver as minor to severe vibrations transferred through the chassis during braking.[9][10][11][12][13][14][15][16][17]

The judder phenomenon can be classified into two distinct subgroups: hot (or thermal), or cold judder.

Hot judder is usually produced as a result of longer, more moderate braking from high speed where the vehicle does not come to a complete stop.[18] It commonly occurs when a motorist decelerates from speeds of around 120 km/h (74.6 MPH) to about 60 km/h (37.3 MPH), which results in severe vibrations being transmitted to the driver. These vibrations are the result of uneven thermal distributions, or hot spots. Hot spots are classified as concentrated thermal regions that alternate between both sides of a disc that distort it in such a way that produces a sinusoidal waviness around its edges. Once the brake pads (friction material/brake lining) comes in contact with the sinusoidal surface during braking, severe vibrations are induced, and can produce hazardous conditions for the person driving the vehicle.[19][20][21][22]

Cold judder, on the other hand, is the result of uneven disc wear patterns or DTV (disc thickness variation). These variations in the disc surface are usually the result of extensive vehicle road usage. DTV is usually attributed to the following causes: waviness of rotor surface, misalignment of axis (runout), elastic deflection, thermal distortion, wear and friction material transfers.[11][22][23]

This sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. Perhaps caused by the cheapo autozone pads I got on there.
 
Does anybody know of a good way to keep a car clean while living in an apartment? I may not have access to a hose (possibly anywhere) yet the car desperately needs to be washed.

Also, after 2200 miles on a trailer behind a diesel truck, the car is hella greasy and gross. Will regular car wash stuff take this all off or is there something special I should do?
 
What we've heard (and actually used a few times) is to use Dawn dish soap (the plain blue concentrated kind) to wash with to get real bad stuff off. It'll probably remove wax also, so do that when you plan on waxing it afterwards.
 
Does anybody know of a good way to keep a car clean while living in an apartment? I may not have access to a hose (possibly anywhere) yet the car desperately needs to be washed.

Also, after 2200 miles on a trailer behind a diesel truck, the car is hella greasy and gross. Will regular car wash stuff take this all off or is there something special I should do?

You might have to find the closest non-machine public car wash.
 
You might have to find the closest non-machine public car wash.

Yup. A self-serve wand bay will cost you about $5-6 per wash. And contrary to popular belief, the foaming brushes aren't even the devil, unless you are the OCD detailing type - just make sure that you spray the brush off good and proper before you put it on the car.
 
The regular car wash stuff seems to have worked. And I found a decent faucet to use. Unfortunately the towels I brought are awful. Oh well. I'll probably invest in some rinse-less car wash.

Also: Does anybody know how to clean a mushroom out of carpet? I just found one growing under my passenger seat. I'll guess it's from the shipping. It's kinda gross and I want it gone.
 
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Also: Does anybody know how to clean a mushroom out of carpet? I just found one growing under my passenger seat. I'll guess it's from the shipping. It's kinda gross and I want it gone.

That sounds nasty :lol:.

I'd ask about my problems but I think I already have the answer. My throttle is staying open, and the throttle body, IAC valve, TPS and MAP sensor are all new, as is the throttle body which when played with is clearly not sticking, nor is the pedal itself. It appears to be the ECU shagging itself, maybe telling the IAC valve to stay open when it shouldn't be. It's the only thing left by process of elimination, and the characteristics of the issue change slightly when I reset the ECU but don't go away, before returning to how it was.
 
Solution: Get the Toyota engineers away from it. :D

Face it, you knew that was coming.
 
Competing in a Solo event sunday in the Miata, not sure what class i'll be in though. I'm guessing Super Street Modified (SSM). Soft top and many interior bits have been removed, along with AC, PS and the factory tie down hooks. I'm not asking anyone to read through all the SCCA rules, but if you know off hand that'd be tits.
 
1996 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl.

Overheating, consequently burst radiator. Replaced radiator and thermostat. Lower hose from radiator still is cool to the touch when the engine is hot, as if the thermostat still wasn't opening. The only cause of a cold hose I know of is just that, the thermostat not opening.

Anyone else know of what the issue could be?

It's Sunday, otherwise I would give up and take it in.
 
The regular car wash stuff seems to have worked. And I found a decent faucet to use. Unfortunately the towels I brought are awful. Oh well. I'll probably invest in some rinse-less car wash.

Also: Does anybody know how to clean a mushroom out of carpet? I just found one growing under my passenger seat. I'll guess it's from the shipping. It's kinda gross and I want it gone.

I use Optimum No Rinse. Works well. I live in an apartment. When I'm bored and want to clean it well, I use ONR in the parking lot. WHen I just want it to look decently clean, I'll spend the $5 at a car wash self-serve
 
Update:

let the car run for another ten minutes or so and all is well. My guess is there was some air that needed to be flushed out or something.
 
I use Optimum No Rinse. Works well. I live in an apartment. When I'm bored and want to clean it well, I use ONR in the parking lot. WHen I just want it to look decently clean, I'll spend the $5 at a car wash self-serve

I went ahead and bought some. It seems like some pretty legit stuff. I'll be testing it out in the next couple days for sure.

The car also seems to be running a bit differently here. The biggest symptom is the car not starting as well as it once did. It still starts but it kind of coughs and wheezes up to an idle when it's very cold. That and the tach is sticking a little on start up. But that doesn't bother me much.
 
I went ahead and bought some. It seems like some pretty legit stuff. I'll be testing it out in the next couple days for sure.

The car also seems to be running a bit differently here. The biggest symptom is the car not starting as well as it once did. It still starts but it kind of coughs and wheezes up to an idle when it's very cold. That and the tach is sticking a little on start up. But that doesn't bother me much.
Check youtube user Scottwax for videos on using the stuff. he inspired me to buy it.
 
Coolant leak. Started with my lower rad hose clamp being loose. Fixed that after stripping the old clamp and adding 2 new gallons to replace the lost coolant. Now I get coolant leaking down and ending up on the bottom of the hose from the top, and a little runs down my oil pan and drips off the tranny. What could cause this? Truck is question is a '91 F150 with a 300 6cyl
 
So I'm looking to change my manual transmission fluid pretty soon. Trying to track down some GM Synchromesh with Friction Modifier. Seems that it is discontinued and they just make the single formula now (and it apparently replaces the same part number as both previous types). Assuming I can't find any (I need 2qts if anybody has some :lol: )what would you guys recommend? Its for a 2008 Civic Si. On the Civic forum people worship the synchromesh (with FM) but otherwise tend to use Amsoil's product. Pennzoil also has a "synchromesh" and apparently a type with FM, but we aren't sure if this is actually the same stuff as GM's or what. And I don't really want Pennzoil product in my car.
 
Update:

let the car run for another ten minutes or so and all is well. My guess is there was some air that needed to be flushed out or something.

If you're still nervous about it, you could always go to a lower temp thermostat so it will open earlier.

Coolant leak. Started with my lower rad hose clamp being loose. Fixed that after stripping the old clamp and adding 2 new gallons to replace the lost coolant. Now I get coolant leaking down and ending up on the bottom of the hose from the top, and a little runs down my oil pan and drips off the tranny. What could cause this? Truck is question is a '91 F150 with a 300 6cyl

The hose could be out of shape, the lip of the water pump could be worn down, or there could be some gunk between the hose and water pump. It could also be leaking out one of the water pump bolt holes, depending on if they thread through the coolant passages or not.
 
If you're still nervous about it, you could always go to a lower temp thermostat so it will open earlier.



The hose could be out of shape, the lip of the water pump could be worn down, or there could be some gunk between the hose and water pump. It could also be leaking out one of the water pump bolt holes, depending on if they thread through the coolant passages or not.

It's not the hose, that's 6 months old, just needed a new clamp, it's coming from farther up. And naturally being an I6 in something designed-ish for V8s, viewing room between the radiator and engine is, um... Non existant :grumpy:
 
So I'm looking to change my manual transmission fluid pretty soon. Trying to track down some GM Synchromesh with Friction Modifier. Seems that it is discontinued and they just make the single formula now (and it apparently replaces the same part number as both previous types). Assuming I can't find any (I need 2qts if anybody has some :lol: )what would you guys recommend? Its for a 2008 Civic Si. On the Civic forum people worship the synchromesh (with FM) but otherwise tend to use Amsoil's product. Pennzoil also has a "synchromesh" and apparently a type with FM, but we aren't sure if this is actually the same stuff as GM's or what. And I don't really want Pennzoil product in my car.
Yes, the name is trademarked, I believe. And it's the only synchromesh available that I know of.
I've no idea why you're afraid of Pennzoil, but if you can't get over that mental brigade to buy it, why not try.... why are you changing the manual trans fluid on an '08?
Unless it has at least 75K miles, it probably doesn't need it at all.
Anyways, why not try the factory recommended trans fluid? Usually works very well.
 
Because Honda's 6spd tranny sucks. The first couple years of my car used a different MTF and resulted in third gear popping out and lots of grinding for many people. Their TSB for it is simply changing to a new Honda MTF. Its either the last half of 07 cars or the last half of 08 cars that started using the new stuff, supposedly. But I want to change mine out because at least a couple times a week 2nd or 3rd gears do not engage completely (though it almost feels like it through the shifter) and I end up grinding like a noob when I engage the clutch.

I plan on mentioning the grinds to the service manager this week if I go get an alignment. Just to have it on record in case it gets worse and they have to tear into it.
 
My car is in the "good" VIN range. And it wasn't a recall, just a TSB issued. Basically, if you have one of the older cars in that range and bring up that TSB they're going to be willing to look into it. Its more likely they'll blame that I abused it. Most of the higher guys at my dealership are pricks, too. I really had to bitch in order for them to fix the paint where the door and fender snagged each other. They wanted to make me a deal.

We'll see, I'm going to try to get in there tomorrow to check out my alignment and I'll talk to the service manager. I'd like to have them tear it apart and replace the parts for second and third gears.
 
Because Honda's 6spd tranny sucks. The first couple years of my car used a different MTF and resulted in third gear popping out and lots of grinding for many people. Their TSB for it is simply changing to a new Honda MTF. Its either the last half of 07 cars or the last half of 08 cars that started using the new stuff, supposedly. But I want to change mine out because at least a couple times a week 2nd or 3rd gears do not engage completely (though it almost feels like it through the shifter) and I end up grinding like a noob when I engage the clutch.

I plan on mentioning the grinds to the service manager this week if I go get an alignment. Just to have it on record in case it gets worse and they have to tear into it.
Interesting. What mileage are you at, right now?
 
Good luck. I just finished changing synchros and that was a royal pain.
 
I'm right over 20k. I wouldn't say the transmission is bad by any means. But these may be early signs of what others have gone through and I'd like to have the dealer aware of it in case it does get bad.
 
Yeah, I would guess either water pump bolt, or thermostat housing bolt.

Changed the thermostat out myself too, that sumb*tch is on there real good :lol:

I'm thinking it's waterpump related, I've got drainage from somewhere I cant see. I can see/feel both hoses all the way around, the the stat housing... The leak is under control though, and even with that I'm losing less coolant than when I knew it was the hose. My dad spilled some when opening the radiator cap/pouring, so I'm hoping that it's just leftovers from that
 
I've checked around and GM Synchromesh doesn't seem to be sold in Australia, does anyone know some really great transmision fluid that would be good in a T5, to extend its life a little longer and make it feel a little better again. Also, anyone have a good idea what grade of brake fluid I should use in my '94 VR Ute for optimum pedal feel without breaking the bank entirely? Are there negative effects to using better brake fluid? Something so simple, you'd think all manufacturers would just use them in the first place.
 
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