Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

When you say "start" the car, do you mean launching from rest, or do you mean firing up the engine?
 
Firing up the Engine. It'll never happen halfway through a journey. It'll either happen at the start or not at all.
 
Hey guys. Quick question about 2011 Mustang V6 package
I was checking out Ford website, and browsing for the Mustang V6 it states..

Standard
2.73:1 limited slip rear axle ratio

Optional
3:31:1 Limited Slip Axle (manual trans only)

What is the main differences between the two?
Is it worth buying the 3:31:1 ?
 
Higher ratio, better acceleration. The lower ratio axle should give you lower cruising revs, but that'll depend on whether the gearset is the same.
 
I've got one for you chaps. I'm guessing it is an electrical/engine management problem but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone here can shed some light on it.

This used to happen intermittently (once every one or two months) but it has got more and more frequent and is now almost every day. It only happens when i start the car, not when I am driving along.

The car has a slight drop in power, the exaugst note sounds slighty different and there are some pops coming from the exauhst on the overrun, the revs drop quicker when changing gear and the car occasionally gets close to stalling if I let them drop to idle. Whenever this happens, the spedo stops working also.

Normally after a while (could be 5 to 15mins), the spedo jumps back in to life and everything is fine.

Any ideas?!!



*edit*

Oh, you might want to know what I drive!! :dunce:

It's a 2000 Ford Focus 3dr 1.8 Zetec
Speed sensor maybe?
 
I've got one for you chaps. I'm guessing it is an electrical/engine management problem but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone here can shed some light on it.

This used to happen intermittently (once every one or two months) but it has got more and more frequent and is now almost every day. It only happens when i start the car, not when I am driving along.

The car has a slight drop in power, the exaugst note sounds slighty different and there are some pops coming from the exauhst on the overrun, the revs drop quicker when changing gear and the car occasionally gets close to stalling if I let them drop to idle. Whenever this happens, the spedo stops working also.

Normally after a while (could be 5 to 15mins), the spedo jumps back in to life and everything is fine.

Any ideas?!!



*edit*

Oh, you might want to know what I drive!! :dunce:

It's a 2000 Ford Focus 3dr 1.8 Zetec
Intermittent coil pack pack fault It breaks down on 1 cylinder every now and again.
A very common fault on the whole focus range.
From a ST170 owner.
 
Speed sensor maybe?

Possibly but that wouldn't affect the engine management.

Intermittent coil pack pack fault It breaks down on 1 cylinder every now and again.
A very common fault on the whole focus range.
From a ST170 owner.

That sounds spot on, thanks! Is it expensive to fix?


*edit*
Also, is it damaging my engine driving around like this?
 
Last edited:
Not really... if it's just a coil pack. It's worse to have spark and no fuel than to have fuel and no spark. Not great for your engine oil, though.
 
Hello, I'm having a problem with my 86' 2.3 16v 5 speed. It hasnt been drivable for a few weeks now, the last 45min or so of drive time the clutch was only operating at the very deepest of the pedal stroke and the pedal itself became slightly lighter. Then one desent uphill acceloration out of a nice right hand corrner, after a clean (rev matched) down shift. Led to a engaged clutch, but a dead (hanging loseslly at the floor. with no pressure at any point in its stroke) clutch pedal. I put the car in neutral and costed to a stop. The gear box wouldn't find any gear no matter the amout of pressure on the stick or other. So I turned the car off and sat for a minutie (not for the cars sake, I realized this would do nothing) I need to get home so I place the car in first, quitlly apologized to my starter for what was about to happen and cranked the key. A nice jolt later and i was on my way home doing my best to be very carefull as i rev matched and limped the car home going between 2nd and 3rd. I figured the problem to be the slave as the clutch master was fine so orderd a new one and put it in. I still had no pedal after the repair (witch was a pain btw) but felt it was poor bleeding. I then reverse bleed the clutch but still had no pedal. So just friday I opend the clutch up. I have never done a clutch and have been just resently trying to understand its operation, so i didnt know evrything I was looking at or what to check. I was able to verify the slave is working just as it should and is pushing correctly on the "fork?" there was a loses (floting were ever i pushed it along the shaft) throw out bearing and i could fell the "teeth" on the pessure plate were all in place and felt stiff.

So I know the problem is somthing in side the clutch itself but what? does anyone have any ideas or a diagram of the clutch. Any advise as this is my first clutch job Thanks a ton!

-Travis
DSC05212.jpg
 
Did you have anyone helping you when you bled the clutch? It is possible, if not even likely that there's still some bubbles in the system.
 
Possibly but that wouldn't affect the engine management.



That sounds spot on, thanks! Is it expensive to fix?


*edit*
Also, is it damaging my engine driving around like this?
Not really expensive there are numerous companies that supply them 1000's on ebay.
But I would get It done sooner rather than later due to fuel being pumped into the cat, It doesn't sound to bad at the moment but could get worse = the more the miss fire the more fuel being pumped through last thing you need Is fuel burning In the cat causing more experience on a reasonably priced fix.
 
Did you have anyone helping you when you bled the clutch? It is possible, if not even likely that there's still some bubbles in the system.

I agree I wouldn't of reverse bleed It though.
Even though the slave move when the clutch Is pressed doesn't mean It will when the pressure of the clutch Is on It.
Pump loads of fluid through It.(With help from a friend)
Try pumping the clutch 7or8 times with the nipple locked.

Then open the nipple when the clutch Is being pressed and shut off when the clutch is fully pressed and repeat until a solid pedal Is maintained.(You could do this on every pump)

You could also use a bleed kit from a motor factors (basicly a 1 way valve) Or a 1 way valve out of a window washer pipe to help.
 
I agree I wouldn't of reverse bleed It though.
Even though the slave move when the clutch Is pressed doesn't mean It will when the pressure of the clutch Is on It.

Yeah I had help bleeding it. I did it the normal way for almost 30min with no progress. Mercedes says on that system to reverse bleed it so that was my next step. after that still didnt work i opend it up and one of the things i checked was putting pressure against the rod on the slave. with pressure against it, the clutch felt normal and had a return = to the perssure against it. but isn't the throwout bearing suppost to be "locked" to the fork? because its just hanging out in there free.
 
Yeah I had help bleeding it. I did it the normal way for almost 30min with no progress. Mercedes says on that system to reverse bleed it so that was my next step. after that still didnt work i opend it up and one of the things i checked was putting pressure against the rod on the slave. with pressure against it, the clutch felt normal and had a return = to the perssure against it. but isn't the throwout bearing suppost to be "locked" to the fork? because its just hanging out in there free.

Can't remenber off top of my head but I'm 80% sure the fork slots onto the bearing.
I know the 8valve is different.
 
Quick question: Will exhaust heat wrap work well to keep an aluminuim air intake tube cool? or is there anything else that would work well to keep the pipe cool?
 
You can try silver-backed foam roofing insulation. :lol: I used it for a while. I still use it to insulate my heat shield to seal off gaps.

A lot of the heat in the intake is from contact with the cylinder head. (iron/aluminum head connected to iron/aluminum manifold connected to aluminum throttle body connected to aluminum tube...) The best way to remove this source of heat or minimize it is with a phenolic spacer on the manifold and the throttle body.
 
Hey guys. Quick question about 2011 Mustang V6 package
I was checking out Ford website, and browsing for the Mustang V6 it states..

Standard
2.73:1 limited slip rear axle ratio

Optional
3:31:1 Limited Slip Axle (manual trans only)

What is the main differences between the two?
Is it worth buying the 3:31:1 ?

3.31s will get you quite a bit better 0-60, slightly higher crusing RPM, so instead of 31mpg, you'll get like 30. Get the 3.31. Or 2.73 if you wanna go and put 4.10s in later ;)
 
The auto won't need the 3.31s seeing as it has an absolutely nuts 1st gear ratio.

It's like having an oldschool 4-speed auto with 4.10s on launch even with the 2.73s.
 
So other than various other issues seemingly related to the same bug, what could cause the car being mobile in either neutral or with the clutch depressed to possibly affect idle speed? On my Ute of course........
 
I'm parking the GTI at a friend's house for the summer. Is there anything I need to do to prepare it for that? I'm cleaning it inside and out and waxing it today and I just got some Stay-bil. I also have a car cover that I'll be using.
 
Pretty random question but I want to know more about old Porsches. Does anyone know how reliable carrera sc's are? And if you know about their general problems could you inform me about them?
 
Older Porsches are supposed to be pretty damn reliable. Don't know personally, I've owned a total of 0 Porsches.

I'm parking the GTI at a friend's house for the summer. Is there anything I need to do to prepare it for that? I'm cleaning it inside and out and waxing it today and I just got some Stay-bil. I also have a car cover that I'll be using.

Pump the tires up to keep them from flat-spotting or get some jackstands to keep the weight off them, disconnect the battery so it won't drain (if your friend can use it from time to time, that'd be good...).

Other than that, you should be fine, I think. Shouldn't have so much trouble with gas or oil, since it's summer storage, not winter.
 
The auto won't need the 3.31s seeing as it has an absolutely nuts 1st gear ratio.

It's like having an oldschool 4-speed auto with 4.10s on launch even with the 2.73s.

So if I get the AUTO stick with 2.73 ehh?

Also I can not decide, AUTO or Manual, AUTO will be confort, Manual I hear its fun, but traffic jam, uphill parking will be a pain. Also I have never driven a Manual except with a Logitech/Fanatec wheels with clutch enabled on PC sims.
 
Manual, once it becomes second nature uphill and even traffic wont bother you much more than in a slus.... Auto. Unless that traffic jams mean you move 1 foot, stop, move 2 feet, stop etc for a half hour+ everyday, then it will get more annoying.

Myself personally wouldn't touch the auto model.
 
I live in Philadelphia, we only get traffic jams very rare, usually on morning or 5 PM time we get a 20 MPH average traffic. Maybe I'll go with the Manual :) before I die i have to have one anyways haha

I think I can learn fast to use it.
 
So other than various other issues seemingly related to the same bug, what could cause the car being mobile in either neutral or with the clutch depressed to possibly affect idle speed? On my Ute of course........

Nobody? Well I have a different question now. I had some bloke complaining at work today about how his $90k (How he got to $90k is beyond me) FPV didn't come with any touch-up paint, so I was wondering if any luxury automakers on the market offer touch-up paint with the purchase of a new vehicle?
 
Nobody? Well I have a different question now. I had some bloke complaining at work today about how his $90k (How he got to $90k is beyond me) FPV didn't come with any touch-up paint, so I was wondering if any luxury automakers on the market offer touch-up paint with the purchase of a new vehicle?

Not as I know too but £3 wouldn't break the bank to buy one.
 

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